1970? Raleigh Sports Ladies Frame - My New Project
01-20-15, 11:56 AM
#26
Senior Member
@dweenk - I'm so glad you posted a thread. Your bike deserves its own place here. It looks like it's gonna turn out great, and look forward to your progress.
So are there Raleigh catalogs from different countries online? Maybe yours is for a non- USA market. Thus the inconsistencies. Just a thought.
Also, if you replace the pump, would you try to stick with period correct or get something midern that actually works? If so what kind?
So are there Raleigh catalogs from different countries online? Maybe yours is for a non- USA market. Thus the inconsistencies. Just a thought.
Also, if you replace the pump, would you try to stick with period correct or get something midern that actually works? If so what kind?
01-20-15, 05:18 PM
#27
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@dweenk - I'm so glad you posted a thread. Your bike deserves its own place here. It looks like it's gonna turn out great, and look forward to your progress.
So are there Raleigh catalogs from different countries online? Maybe yours is for a non- USA market. Thus the inconsistencies. Just a thought.
Also, if you replace the pump, would you try to stick with period correct or get something midern that actually works? If so what kind?
So are there Raleigh catalogs from different countries online? Maybe yours is for a non- USA market. Thus the inconsistencies. Just a thought.
Also, if you replace the pump, would you try to stick with period correct or get something midern that actually works? If so what kind?
I would also be interested in discovering how the light wiring was run from the dyno to the front and rear lights. Mine is a bit of an uncoiled mess - more wire than needs be IMO. I wouldn't dare drilling the frame tubes to re-route it, but I must admit that I was tempted.
I am considering a Velo Orange chainguard ($29) until I can find an original (that is not from Greece).
I'm still questioning the bike's origin. It is a Sports with a Superbe locking fork, Superbe rear rack (I think), and the very nice B-66 saddle.
I am not sure about the front hub - did Raleigh still make them with clip covers for oil ports in 1970?
Anyhow, before I dive in to this project, I intend to do my due diligence. I don't want to make this a gem, I just want to bring it back to where it should be if it had been cared for.
02-01-15, 03:42 PM
#29
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OK, I have found a chain guard. It is white (yes, that is a problem) and it will be another color soon. (I am not going to obsess on this (yes I will, no I won't, yes I will, no I won't).
Now I have another issue - the bronze/green color of the catalogs is far lighter than the color of the bike. It seems to be a much darker green - nearly black (I am not going to obsess on this (yes I will, no I won't, yes I will, no I won't).
Help!!
Now I have another issue - the bronze/green color of the catalogs is far lighter than the color of the bike. It seems to be a much darker green - nearly black (I am not going to obsess on this (yes I will, no I won't, yes I will, no I won't).
Help!!
02-04-15, 05:25 PM
#30
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The only problem(s):
1. The chain guard is white. I can deal with that - match the color and paint it.
2. The decal - I'm not sure what the proper decal should be. I am pretty sure the bike was made for the Belgian market and have no idea how it was spec'ed. If I can discover what the proper decal should be, I'm confident that I can find one.
3. I would like to find a key for the fork lock - anyone have ideas?
On the plus side:
1. The chain guard is in great shape and the seller packed it well for shipping.
2. The white chain guard came with really clean hardware, and I was missing the rear hardware anyway.
I think Harbor Freight still has a sale on a small HVLP g+n. I would welcome advice.
Last edited by dweenk; 02-04-15 at 05:26 PM. Reason: add photo
02-04-15, 07:02 PM
#31
OldBikeGuide.com
Don't mess with painting and sourcing decals. Find an original. It should be easy. Your frame has the clamp for the earlier hockey stick chainguard. Don't buy the one that uses brazed on tabs.
02-04-15, 07:06 PM
#32
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I don't have much info to help but I have to say awesome project and I'm happy to see your doing this for someone you care about. The bike looks like it was well loved and I can't wait to see the final project!
02-05-15, 01:54 AM
#33
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Here's a link to Sturmey Archer light wiring diagram with explanation. It's on page 30.
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/view-837.pdf
https://www.sturmey-archerheritage.co...s/view-837.pdf
02-08-15, 03:15 PM
#34
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We had lovely weather today, temps in the 60's (I'm sure we'll pay dearly in the near future). I was able to give the Sports a bath. I found some chips and rust spots that were hidden by dust and dirt, but nothing too bad.
One thing that I did discover was that the paint is not Bronze/Green, it is more like British Racing Green. I have a couple of photos that i hope will demonstrate.
One thing that I did discover was that the paint is not Bronze/Green, it is more like British Racing Green. I have a couple of photos that i hope will demonstrate.
02-09-15, 08:33 AM
#35
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You can buy at just about any hardware store today, or Home Depot/Loews, something called "liquid electrical tape."
It comes in a few different colors and also black. You basically just paint it on so if you are careful with how you strip off any fraying old insulation and pencil it back neatly you can paint on the new insulation cleanly so that you can't even tell where a splice was. If the wire is still in good condion under teh insulation, or just has a few strands fraying you can carefully trim them and even sand down any rough spots. The type of currents in bike dynamo systems is so low that you don't have to worry much about wire sizes or the wire being a little thin in one short tiny bit. As long as a few strands are still good an intact there will be a good enough path for the electricity to travel. The wire inside the dynamo itself is so thin it is like one single strand of thicker wire and it's in series with the whole circuit.
If the wire is broke then soldering isn't a big deal either if you can be careful and do a neat job. The liquid tape is good stuff. You can just brush it on and it dries fairly smooth if you are careful not to get it all globby. It's much neater than using heat-shrink which draws the eye like a sore thumb from 10 feet away IMHO.
It comes in a few different colors and also black. You basically just paint it on so if you are careful with how you strip off any fraying old insulation and pencil it back neatly you can paint on the new insulation cleanly so that you can't even tell where a splice was. If the wire is still in good condion under teh insulation, or just has a few strands fraying you can carefully trim them and even sand down any rough spots. The type of currents in bike dynamo systems is so low that you don't have to worry much about wire sizes or the wire being a little thin in one short tiny bit. As long as a few strands are still good an intact there will be a good enough path for the electricity to travel. The wire inside the dynamo itself is so thin it is like one single strand of thicker wire and it's in series with the whole circuit.
If the wire is broke then soldering isn't a big deal either if you can be careful and do a neat job. The liquid tape is good stuff. You can just brush it on and it dries fairly smooth if you are careful not to get it all globby. It's much neater than using heat-shrink which draws the eye like a sore thumb from 10 feet away IMHO.
02-09-15, 11:20 AM
#36
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You can buy at just about any hardware store today, or Home Depot/Loews, something called "liquid electrical tape."
It comes in a few different colors and also black. You basically just paint it on so if you are careful with how you strip off any fraying old insulation and pencil it back neatly you can paint on the new insulation cleanly so that you can't even tell where a splice was. If the wire is still in good condion under teh insulation, or just has a few strands fraying you can carefully trim them and even sand down any rough spots. The type of currents in bike dynamo systems is so low that you don't have to worry much about wire sizes or the wire being a little thin in one short tiny bit. As long as a few strands are still good an intact there will be a good enough path for the electricity to travel. The wire inside the dynamo itself is so thin it is like one single strand of thicker wire and it's in series with the whole circuit.
If the wire is broke then soldering isn't a big deal either if you can be careful and do a neat job. The liquid tape is good stuff. You can just brush it on and it dries fairly smooth if you are careful not to get it all globby. It's much neater than using heat-shrink which draws the eye like a sore thumb from 10 feet away IMHO.
It comes in a few different colors and also black. You basically just paint it on so if you are careful with how you strip off any fraying old insulation and pencil it back neatly you can paint on the new insulation cleanly so that you can't even tell where a splice was. If the wire is still in good condion under teh insulation, or just has a few strands fraying you can carefully trim them and even sand down any rough spots. The type of currents in bike dynamo systems is so low that you don't have to worry much about wire sizes or the wire being a little thin in one short tiny bit. As long as a few strands are still good an intact there will be a good enough path for the electricity to travel. The wire inside the dynamo itself is so thin it is like one single strand of thicker wire and it's in series with the whole circuit.
If the wire is broke then soldering isn't a big deal either if you can be careful and do a neat job. The liquid tape is good stuff. You can just brush it on and it dries fairly smooth if you are careful not to get it all globby. It's much neater than using heat-shrink which draws the eye like a sore thumb from 10 feet away IMHO.
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