Lettering a frame
#1
Senior Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Directly above the center of the earth
Posts: 3,856
Bikes: Varies by day
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
Lettering a frame
So I'm rebuilding an old Nishiki. Since it's nowhere near stock anyway, I'm not concerned about authenticity. I would, however, like to have some lettering on the frame. As I see it, there are several ways to do it:
1. Hand letter the frame with a fine paint brush. The plusses to this approach are that you can use any color or font that you fancy. The minuses are that few have a steady enough hand and good enough eye to get consistent lettering on a curved surface.
2. Print decals. Obviously, this has strong appeal, but since printers (almost universally) can't print white, using any white in the decal is probably a non-starter.
3. Buy "stick-on" letters. This keeps the lettering straight and uniform, but the letters won't be flush with the paint on the frame. Therefore, when you wax the frame, wax will build up at the edges of the letters. The letters also would be prone to being washed off or peeling off spontaneously.
So am I missing any obvious choices? What have youse guys done to apply frame lettering?
Thanks - FH
1. Hand letter the frame with a fine paint brush. The plusses to this approach are that you can use any color or font that you fancy. The minuses are that few have a steady enough hand and good enough eye to get consistent lettering on a curved surface.
2. Print decals. Obviously, this has strong appeal, but since printers (almost universally) can't print white, using any white in the decal is probably a non-starter.
3. Buy "stick-on" letters. This keeps the lettering straight and uniform, but the letters won't be flush with the paint on the frame. Therefore, when you wax the frame, wax will build up at the edges of the letters. The letters also would be prone to being washed off or peeling off spontaneously.
So am I missing any obvious choices? What have youse guys done to apply frame lettering?
Thanks - FH
#2
Shifting is fun!
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: South Holland, NL
Posts: 11,004
Bikes: Yes, please.
Mentioned: 280 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2198 Post(s)
Liked 4,600 Times
in
1,764 Posts
How about a set from Velocals?
#3
Senior Member
Exactly, they are thin enough that you don't have to worry about wax build up. And the are uv protected!
__________________
Semper fi
Semper fi
#4
Senior Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Directly above the center of the earth
Posts: 3,856
Bikes: Varies by day
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
If I wanted to restore the frame with original decals, that would be a good option. But what I want to do instead is create my own text on the frame. I need a lettering set (in decal format). Maybe this site? Vinyl Lettering | Custom Vinyl Bike Lettering
Problem is, they're EXPENSIVE! Four decals (both sides of top & down tube) would be about $50!
I think I may have to print my own on a laser printer and forego any white accents...
Problem is, they're EXPENSIVE! Four decals (both sides of top & down tube) would be about $50!
I think I may have to print my own on a laser printer and forego any white accents...
Last edited by FarHorizon; 02-16-15 at 05:26 AM.
#5
Mike J
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 1,588
Bikes: 1975 Peugeot PX-50L, 1971 Peugeot PX-10, 1974 Peugeot PX-8
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 392 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 6 Times
in
6 Posts
If I wanted to restore the frame with original decals, that would be a good option. But what I want to do instead is create my own text on the frame. I need a lettering set (in decal format). Maybe this site? Vinyl Lettering | Custom Vinyl Bike Lettering
Problem is, they're EXPENSIVE! Four decals (both sides of top & down tube) would be about $50!
I think I may have to print my own on a laser printer and forego any white accents...
Problem is, they're EXPENSIVE! Four decals (both sides of top & down tube) would be about $50!
I think I may have to print my own on a laser printer and forego any white accents...
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NW Burbs, Chicago
Posts: 12,054
Mentioned: 201 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3015 Post(s)
Liked 3,802 Times
in
1,408 Posts
Any sign shop in your hometown cuts vinyl letters. Much closer to $10 than $50. Give them a call.
#7
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
I print waterslide decals on the laser printer at work. If I want to use white or gold in the design, as is usually the case, I print the decals in mirror image and hand paint the desired color onto the back side of the decal.
When I do this, I put a thin smear of water soluble glue on frame where the decal will go, and put the wet decal over this. Then I carefully squeeze all the water and glue out from under the decal, working from the center outward. It's a little more difficult than putting the same decal on the usual way. Once the decal is in place, it takes a day or two to fully dry; once it's dry it is very stable, especially if clearcoated.
When I do this, I put a thin smear of water soluble glue on frame where the decal will go, and put the wet decal over this. Then I carefully squeeze all the water and glue out from under the decal, working from the center outward. It's a little more difficult than putting the same decal on the usual way. Once the decal is in place, it takes a day or two to fully dry; once it's dry it is very stable, especially if clearcoated.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#9
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
Thanks! Yup, all home made. Love those Sharpie paint pens, as explained elsewhere. You have to keep a certain distance; doesn't look so good right up close.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#11
Senior Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Directly above the center of the earth
Posts: 3,856
Bikes: Varies by day
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
Well, various feedbacks:
It may be possible that there are people who can hand-paint a frame's rust spots with a brush and have their work indistinguishable from the factory paint. I'm NOT one of them. I did it properly - I scraped off all the loose rust (and not all rust was visible - some places the paint had bubbled - under every bubble I found a rust spot 1.5 to 2 x the diameter of the paint bubble). I used a rust fixer to stabilize remaining surface rust in the spots. I lightly sanded the excess rust-fixer smooth - then applied a primer. Finally, I used an enamel that exactly matched the paint color (from the store's color card & from the colored bottle cap). I applied the enamel, waited overnight and surprise - the enamel was at least three shades lighter than the factory paint. So now my options are to sand down and start over (another two days' work wasted) or live with 10% of the frame looking mottled. Sigh...
So next I figured that some camouflage would distract attention from the mottled look - I printed some decals on my color laser printer. After fighting the printer for an hour to get it to accept the custom-sized decal paper (I'll never buy another HP printer), I got the decals printed. They looked gorgeous! Bright, bold and contrasty enough to pop out against the dark grey frame. So I go to install them... Surprise again - the decals aren't opaque - they are translucent. So much so that one can hardly notice the decal against the background color! Throw those away - another morning's work gone...
So lessons learned (for me):
1. If it's more than a small spot - don't bother trying to touch it up. Maybe 10 to 15% of this frame had rust on it, so I should have just had it sand-blasted and painted. The touch-up attempt was nothing but a massive waste of time & resources.
2. Need decals? Buy some. Unless your frame is a light (LIGHT) color, the decals you print yourself won't show up. If I decide to keep this bike, I may go with white for the frame color and THEN try printing some decals, but even then, I have my doubts...
3. Examine bikes BEFORE you buy them. Bad paint = mega $$$ to fix. Of course, if you don't mind fugly, then pedal on!
If I like the current bike as much as I expect to, then a sandblast & spray-can job (at a minimum) will be the way to fly. But of course, to get there, I'll need to strip the whole frame again & rebuild it after painting (sigh...). So for the time being, I'll ride the scabrous (and I mean that adjective in all three of its common meanings - "having a rough surface" - "indecent or obscene" - "full of difficulties") thing until I make a "keep-or-cull" decision. May your rides be less troublesome and your experiences less ignominious.
FH
It may be possible that there are people who can hand-paint a frame's rust spots with a brush and have their work indistinguishable from the factory paint. I'm NOT one of them. I did it properly - I scraped off all the loose rust (and not all rust was visible - some places the paint had bubbled - under every bubble I found a rust spot 1.5 to 2 x the diameter of the paint bubble). I used a rust fixer to stabilize remaining surface rust in the spots. I lightly sanded the excess rust-fixer smooth - then applied a primer. Finally, I used an enamel that exactly matched the paint color (from the store's color card & from the colored bottle cap). I applied the enamel, waited overnight and surprise - the enamel was at least three shades lighter than the factory paint. So now my options are to sand down and start over (another two days' work wasted) or live with 10% of the frame looking mottled. Sigh...
So next I figured that some camouflage would distract attention from the mottled look - I printed some decals on my color laser printer. After fighting the printer for an hour to get it to accept the custom-sized decal paper (I'll never buy another HP printer), I got the decals printed. They looked gorgeous! Bright, bold and contrasty enough to pop out against the dark grey frame. So I go to install them... Surprise again - the decals aren't opaque - they are translucent. So much so that one can hardly notice the decal against the background color! Throw those away - another morning's work gone...
So lessons learned (for me):
1. If it's more than a small spot - don't bother trying to touch it up. Maybe 10 to 15% of this frame had rust on it, so I should have just had it sand-blasted and painted. The touch-up attempt was nothing but a massive waste of time & resources.
2. Need decals? Buy some. Unless your frame is a light (LIGHT) color, the decals you print yourself won't show up. If I decide to keep this bike, I may go with white for the frame color and THEN try printing some decals, but even then, I have my doubts...
3. Examine bikes BEFORE you buy them. Bad paint = mega $$$ to fix. Of course, if you don't mind fugly, then pedal on!
If I like the current bike as much as I expect to, then a sandblast & spray-can job (at a minimum) will be the way to fly. But of course, to get there, I'll need to strip the whole frame again & rebuild it after painting (sigh...). So for the time being, I'll ride the scabrous (and I mean that adjective in all three of its common meanings - "having a rough surface" - "indecent or obscene" - "full of difficulties") thing until I make a "keep-or-cull" decision. May your rides be less troublesome and your experiences less ignominious.
FH
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
Posts: 2,637
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times
in
10 Posts
I print waterslide decals on the laser printer at work. If I want to use white or gold in the design, as is usually the case, I print the decals in mirror image and hand paint the desired color onto the back side of the decal.
When I do this, I put a thin smear of water soluble glue on frame where the decal will go, and put the wet decal over this. Then I carefully squeeze all the water and glue out from under the decal, working from the center outward. It's a little more difficult than putting the same decal on the usual way. Once the decal is in place, it takes a day or two to fully dry; once it's dry it is very stable, especially if clearcoated.
When I do this, I put a thin smear of water soluble glue on frame where the decal will go, and put the wet decal over this. Then I carefully squeeze all the water and glue out from under the decal, working from the center outward. It's a little more difficult than putting the same decal on the usual way. Once the decal is in place, it takes a day or two to fully dry; once it's dry it is very stable, especially if clearcoated.
#13
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
Hi Rudi, I had just come to the same conclusion about printing decals in reverse and painting over them with opaque paint. I guess I'd still need to spray with acrylic clear coat over the top of this? Why do you need to apply water soluble glue? Will the reversed & painted decal not stick in the usual way? I'm REALLY interested! Thanks, Stuart
The same goes for clear coat; I don't know if it's needed.
When you print your decals, make extra copies. You'll probably destroy the first ones you try to install.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,829 Times
in
1,995 Posts
I think the problem is not fully considering the art/love/time/money/capability matrix.
#16
Senior Member
Make Stencils for Uncomplicated lettering
For simple lettering jobs I make stencils. If you have or find an image on line, it's easy to resize in your computer. On the old timer shown here I just scanned the actual tank because the lettering was identical to what I wanted.
Next step is to sit down with a sharp exacto and cut out the letters. I usually shoot some clear lacquer on both sides of the paper which stiffens it a bit and allows a sharper edge.
Then I spray some "removable glue" on the back of the stencil, position it, and use my airbrush to spray appropriate color.
As a final step if your are lettering an already painted area, lightly spray clear over the lettering and surrounding area, then polish to an even sheen.
I have done this a number of times for simple lettering jobs and have been pleased with the results, but you do need an airbrush. I bought my $50 badger for $5 many years ago and have used it many, many times for all types of projects
Someone more talented or patient than me could probably use overlays and get pretty intricate designs, letters, etc.
The big advantages to this method are being able to make any size and paint any color, and if you a mistake cutting the stencil, print a new one and start over.
Next step is to sit down with a sharp exacto and cut out the letters. I usually shoot some clear lacquer on both sides of the paper which stiffens it a bit and allows a sharper edge.
Then I spray some "removable glue" on the back of the stencil, position it, and use my airbrush to spray appropriate color.
As a final step if your are lettering an already painted area, lightly spray clear over the lettering and surrounding area, then polish to an even sheen.
I have done this a number of times for simple lettering jobs and have been pleased with the results, but you do need an airbrush. I bought my $50 badger for $5 many years ago and have used it many, many times for all types of projects
Someone more talented or patient than me could probably use overlays and get pretty intricate designs, letters, etc.
The big advantages to this method are being able to make any size and paint any color, and if you a mistake cutting the stencil, print a new one and start over.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 53
Bikes: Schwinn Premis and Raleigh Talus 29er
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A few years ago I helped a friend fabricate a 30's era speedometer face with white on black letters. I used white waterslide decal paper and it came out very nice. Might be worth a trip to Staples for a practice sheet to see if the quality meets your standard.
DecalPaper.com - Decals - Waterslide decal paper or inkjet,laser printers Alps & copiers
A quote from the above link....
For white lettering / white artwork / white paper users:
In order to print the color "white" successfully you will either require an ALPS printer that has the ability to print opaque white, or our high performance WHITE DECAL PAPER. If you do not have an ALPS printer, do not worry; this alternative product is perfect for you. Now you can use our BEL INC white decal paper and get the same excellent results for all of your artworks that include the color white.
#18
Senior Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Directly above the center of the earth
Posts: 3,856
Bikes: Varies by day
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
Thank you @Beljum -
The white decal paper is what I need (but wasn't aware of until you pointed it out). I got a $35 quote for blasting the frame, so a repaint with fresh lettering is probably on the horizon.
Which brings up another question. I plan to paint the aft parts of my chain & seat stays chrome, the lugs chrome, and the head-tube and seat-tube panel red with the remainder of the frame white. Should I have the frame powder-coated white and then apply the other colors with spray cans? An alternate would be to have the frame powder-coated chrome and then paint the tubes. Yet another option would be to spray can everything.
The majority of the frame will be white. 20% will be chrome, and the remaining 10% red. Therefore, if I'm to powder coat, the 70% coverage color (white) should be the powder coat color, I'm thinking.
Ideas? Thanks - FH
The white decal paper is what I need (but wasn't aware of until you pointed it out). I got a $35 quote for blasting the frame, so a repaint with fresh lettering is probably on the horizon.
Which brings up another question. I plan to paint the aft parts of my chain & seat stays chrome, the lugs chrome, and the head-tube and seat-tube panel red with the remainder of the frame white. Should I have the frame powder-coated white and then apply the other colors with spray cans? An alternate would be to have the frame powder-coated chrome and then paint the tubes. Yet another option would be to spray can everything.
The majority of the frame will be white. 20% will be chrome, and the remaining 10% red. Therefore, if I'm to powder coat, the 70% coverage color (white) should be the powder coat color, I'm thinking.
Ideas? Thanks - FH
Last edited by FarHorizon; 02-17-15 at 07:11 AM.
#19
multimodal commuter
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NJ, NYC, LI
Posts: 19,808
Bikes: 1940s Fothergill, 1959 Allegro Special, 1963? Claud Butler Olympic Sprint, Lambert 'Clubman', 1974 Fuji "the Ace", 1976 Holdsworth 650b conversion rando bike, 1983 Trek 720 tourer, 1984 Counterpoint Opus II, 1993 Basso Gap, 2010 Downtube 8h, and...
Mentioned: 584 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1908 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
339 Posts
I don't know the answers to those questions but they raise other questions in my mind. Mainly I wonder how good the powder coat chrome looks, and how well other paint (specifically rattlecan paint) sticks to it. There are some nice transparent rattle can automotive paints that, when sprayed over a silver base, look pretty spectacular. That might be the way to go. With that, an interesting option would be:
1 chrome powder coat the whole frame
2 mask off the stays, lugs, etc
3 add stick-on letters for decals
4 spray with a transparent top coat
5 remove all masks, including the letters, to reveal chrome lettering.
Would it work? Dunno.
1 chrome powder coat the whole frame
2 mask off the stays, lugs, etc
3 add stick-on letters for decals
4 spray with a transparent top coat
5 remove all masks, including the letters, to reveal chrome lettering.
Would it work? Dunno.
__________________
www.rhmsaddles.com.
www.rhmsaddles.com.
#20
Senior Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Directly above the center of the earth
Posts: 3,856
Bikes: Varies by day
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
1 Post
Yes, @rhm, it should work. From other threads, I've seen that some have roughed up their powder coat surface to ensure spray adhesion, others have just sprayed over the gloss powder coat without issue. What might work nicely would be to powder coat the entire frame in chrome and use translucent "candy" colors to cover the majority of the frame triangle. A candy apple green or red with chrome letters showing through might be nice... Head tube & contrasting panels could be done in an opaque gloss enamel.
The spray application of a translucent color would much trickier - runs, drips, and sags would show through grossly. Straight tubes wouldn't be a problem. Braze-ons = instant trouble. So to do a chrome powder coat, I'd want to file off the braze-ons & use some clamp-on stops & cable guides after painting was complete.
I'm also wondering if lugs could be brush-painted? With a wet enamel coat that was then baked on, I'd think so, but I don't really know.
So the decision tree is between a chrome or a primary-color powder coating. If I can brush-paint the lugs chrome, the only other part of the frame that I'd want chrome on is the back half of the rear triangle. Then spray the head tube & seat tube panel. That could easily be done via spray can.
OTOH, if I go chrome powder coat, then I have to remove braze ons, apply translucent coat(s) of spray to the majority of the frame, bake, and then mask / spray the head tube & contrasting color panels.
Seems that the chrome would be easier to apply OVER the primary-color powder coat. Less work & I get to keep the braze-ons. But if there are factors that I haven't considered, please bring them to my attention.
Thanks again - FH
The spray application of a translucent color would much trickier - runs, drips, and sags would show through grossly. Straight tubes wouldn't be a problem. Braze-ons = instant trouble. So to do a chrome powder coat, I'd want to file off the braze-ons & use some clamp-on stops & cable guides after painting was complete.
I'm also wondering if lugs could be brush-painted? With a wet enamel coat that was then baked on, I'd think so, but I don't really know.
So the decision tree is between a chrome or a primary-color powder coating. If I can brush-paint the lugs chrome, the only other part of the frame that I'd want chrome on is the back half of the rear triangle. Then spray the head tube & seat tube panel. That could easily be done via spray can.
OTOH, if I go chrome powder coat, then I have to remove braze ons, apply translucent coat(s) of spray to the majority of the frame, bake, and then mask / spray the head tube & contrasting color panels.
Seems that the chrome would be easier to apply OVER the primary-color powder coat. Less work & I get to keep the braze-ons. But if there are factors that I haven't considered, please bring them to my attention.
Thanks again - FH
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
356 Posts
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#22
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
Yes, @rhm, it should work. From other threads, I've seen that some have roughed up their powder coat surface to ensure spray adhesion, others have just sprayed over the gloss powder coat without issue. What might work nicely would be to powder coat the entire frame in chrome and use translucent "candy" colors to cover the majority of the frame triangle. A candy apple green or red with chrome letters showing through might be nice... Head tube & contrasting panels could be done in an opaque gloss enamel.
The spray application of a translucent color would much trickier - runs, drips, and sags would show through grossly. Straight tubes wouldn't be a problem. Braze-ons = instant trouble. So to do a chrome powder coat, I'd want to file off the braze-ons & use some clamp-on stops & cable guides after painting was complete.
I'm also wondering if lugs could be brush-painted? With a wet enamel coat that was then baked on, I'd think so, but I don't really know.
So the decision tree is between a chrome or a primary-color powder coating. If I can brush-paint the lugs chrome, the only other part of the frame that I'd want chrome on is the back half of the rear triangle. Then spray the head tube & seat tube panel. That could easily be done via spray can.
OTOH, if I go chrome powder coat, then I have to remove braze ons, apply translucent coat(s) of spray to the majority of the frame, bake, and then mask / spray the head tube & contrasting color panels.
Seems that the chrome would be easier to apply OVER the primary-color powder coat. Less work & I get to keep the braze-ons. But if there are factors that I haven't considered, please bring them to my attention.
Thanks again - FH
The spray application of a translucent color would much trickier - runs, drips, and sags would show through grossly. Straight tubes wouldn't be a problem. Braze-ons = instant trouble. So to do a chrome powder coat, I'd want to file off the braze-ons & use some clamp-on stops & cable guides after painting was complete.
I'm also wondering if lugs could be brush-painted? With a wet enamel coat that was then baked on, I'd think so, but I don't really know.
So the decision tree is between a chrome or a primary-color powder coating. If I can brush-paint the lugs chrome, the only other part of the frame that I'd want chrome on is the back half of the rear triangle. Then spray the head tube & seat tube panel. That could easily be done via spray can.
OTOH, if I go chrome powder coat, then I have to remove braze ons, apply translucent coat(s) of spray to the majority of the frame, bake, and then mask / spray the head tube & contrasting color panels.
Seems that the chrome would be easier to apply OVER the primary-color powder coat. Less work & I get to keep the braze-ons. But if there are factors that I haven't considered, please bring them to my attention.
Thanks again - FH
They can do some crazy things though, with chromes and metallics under candies for a real POP.
#23
All Campy All The Time
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Richmond, Virginia
Posts: 1,417
Bikes: Listed in my signature.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 177 Post(s)
Liked 114 Times
in
63 Posts
In RC model boat racing I hand-cut my own lettering from Monokote vinyl trim sheet with an X-acto knife. These pictures show a 2-layer cut I did to produce a shadow effect. A sign shop might do the same thing using a lazer cutter machine or paint printer for about $50. The raised nature of the letters adds interest and really is no big deal when waxing. The Monokote is glossy, very durable, and withstands race abuse and sunlight for years.
The Zenoah decal was done by hand-cutting the blue lettering and applying it to a red monokote sheet, then cutting freehand around the letters to create the background shadow. Then moving the whole thing to the boat. The Zenoah letters are only about 3/4" tall.
The Zenoah decal was done by hand-cutting the blue lettering and applying it to a red monokote sheet, then cutting freehand around the letters to create the background shadow. Then moving the whole thing to the boat. The Zenoah letters are only about 3/4" tall.
__________________
My C&V Bikes:
1972 Bottecchia Professional, 1972 Legnano Olympiade Record,
1982 Colnago Super, 1987 Bottecchia Team C-Record,
1988 Pinarello Montello, 1990 Masi Nuova Strada Super Record,
1995 Bianchi Campione d'Italia, 1995 DeBernardi Thron
My C&V Bikes:
1972 Bottecchia Professional, 1972 Legnano Olympiade Record,
1982 Colnago Super, 1987 Bottecchia Team C-Record,
1988 Pinarello Montello, 1990 Masi Nuova Strada Super Record,
1995 Bianchi Campione d'Italia, 1995 DeBernardi Thron
Last edited by CroMo Mike; 02-17-15 at 08:59 PM.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
Posts: 2,637
Bikes: 1970 Holdsworth Mistral, Vitus 979, Colnago Primavera, Corratec Hydracarbon, Massi MegaTeam, 1935 Claud Butler Super Velo, Carrera Virtuoso, Viner, 1953 Claud Butler Silver Jubilee, 1954 Holdsworth Typhoon, 1966 Claud Butler Olympic Road, 1982 Claud
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times
in
10 Posts
Frankly, I'm not sure what is necessary. Water slide decals use corn starch or something to hold the decal to the paper until you soak it off, and that becomes the glue that sticks it down after it dries. Maybe it would stick without it? I don't know how well it will stick on its own. The wet glue also serves as a lubricant, giving you time to move the decal around a bit.
The same goes for clear coat; I don't know if it's needed.
When you print your decals, make extra copies. You'll probably destroy the first ones you try to install.
The same goes for clear coat; I don't know if it's needed.
When you print your decals, make extra copies. You'll probably destroy the first ones you try to install.
#25
Calamari Marionette Ph.D
In RC model boat racing I hand-cut my own lettering from Monokote vinyl trim sheet with an X-acto knife. These pictures show a 2-layer cut I did to produce a shadow effect. A sign shop might do the same thing using a lazer cutter machine or paint printer for about $50. The raised nature of the letters adds interest and really is no big deal when waxing. The Monokote is glossy, very durable, and withstands race abuse and sunlight for years.
The Zenoah decal was done by hand-cutting the blue lettering and applying it to a red monokote sheet, then cutting freehand around the letters to create the background shadow. Then moving the whole thing to the boat. The Zenoah letters are only about 3/4" tall.
The Zenoah decal was done by hand-cutting the blue lettering and applying it to a red monokote sheet, then cutting freehand around the letters to create the background shadow. Then moving the whole thing to the boat. The Zenoah letters are only about 3/4" tall.