MTB build for touring
#51
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The Tservs have been great tires. Roll fast, good on wet surfaces and corner well. I regularly roll over broken glass on my commute and no flats so far. I weighed mine before installation and they came in at about 440 grams per. If you are using 800 gram tires, you will shave some weight off for sure.
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Some beautiful conversions in this post. Here's mine - still unfinished, but not much left to do now once the weather improves - the pink bar tape is now history BTW! Deore seems like good kit, works well and was taken from a free donor bike originally.
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I think the use of an old mtb as a touring bike is certainly one way to go. But just because you want to carry a pack, does not mean you need fat tires and a heavy bike. I did extensive touring in my youth using fist a Peugeot PX10 and later on a Raleigh professional. I used very heavy packs, and standard gearing, (52/38 x 12-23...but I was really fit back then.) I rode in the Alps with this gearing, but I wasn't going up L'Alpe D'Huez either. No braze-ons are essential, as you can always attach racks or bottles with a wraparound metal band.
I think a vintage all-Campy machine would make an excellent basis for a tourer, but a lot depends on your fitness level vs. the available gearing. One nice feature of an old Campy Record bike is that they are so well made, that they are completely reliable; very important for unsupported touring. If you want to tour on dirt or gravel trails, one of the MTB conversions makes more sense. If you want to go in mountainous areas, then getting a wider range of gearing becomes essential if you're not super fit.
I think a vintage all-Campy machine would make an excellent basis for a tourer, but a lot depends on your fitness level vs. the available gearing. One nice feature of an old Campy Record bike is that they are so well made, that they are completely reliable; very important for unsupported touring. If you want to tour on dirt or gravel trails, one of the MTB conversions makes more sense. If you want to go in mountainous areas, then getting a wider range of gearing becomes essential if you're not super fit.
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One of my favorite threads is https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.html and is definitely relevant to this one.
#56
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It's funny that you should revive this thread exactly two years after it was last updated.
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#57
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Edit: I really have to check the OP dates on these threads...
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#58
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#59
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One of my favorite threads is https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...nversions.html and is definitely relevant to this one.
For those of us less hip, just wanting reliable cheap transport, an old mountie is fine.
Last edited by prairiepedaler; 02-26-17 at 02:15 PM.
#60
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I think the use of an old mtb as a touring bike is certainly one way to go. But just because you want to carry a pack, does not mean you need fat tires and a heavy bike. I did extensive touring in my youth using fist a Peugeot PX10 and later on a Raleigh professional. I used very heavy packs, and standard gearing, (52/38 x 12-23...but I was really fit back then.) I rode in the Alps with this gearing, but I wasn't going up L'Alpe D'Huez either. No braze-ons are essential, as you can always attach racks or bottles with a wraparound metal band.
I think the trend has been to overbuild touring bikes enough so that a 250# dude with 50# load can ride it within normal parameters. I don't know if this is because people have gotten fatter, or it has become fashionable to carry a heavy load, or some other reason. In my view a LHT or whatever basically is a mountain bike, or at least a hybrid. I guess that's fine if you can use the extra strength and don't mind going a little slower.
Given that, converting an MTB to a touring bike makes perfect sense, especially if you plan on getting away from traffic and hitting the gravel. That's more or less what I'm doing with my Riv Clem. I figure it will be a good fire road explorer.
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For some reason, I mind it less when a converted MTB handles a bit like a truck, than I do when a purpose-designed touring bike does. Might be all in my head, but I do think that the LHT I had, and tried hard to love for 15 or so months, is an improvement on a converted MTB only by virtue of having a couple thoughtful braze-ons.
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For some reason, I mind it less when a converted MTB handles a bit like a truck, than I do when a purpose-designed touring bike does. Might be all in my head, but I do think that the LHT I had, and tried hard to love for 15 or so months, is an improvement on a converted MTB only by virtue of having a couple thoughtful braze-ons.
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I think the trend has been to overbuild touring bikes enough so that a 250# dude with 50# load can ride it within normal parameters. I don't know if this is because people have gotten fatter, or it has become fashionable to carry a heavy load, or some other reason. In my view a LHT or whatever basically is a mountain bike, or at least a hybrid. I guess that's fine if you can use the extra strength and don't mind going a little slower.
Anyways, i wouldnt call a Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee (coop adv1?), Trek 520, Jamis Aurora, etc mountain bikes or hybrids. They are, to me at least, very clearly drop bar touring bikes. They dont resemble current mountain bikes or mountain bikes from 30 years ago.
Everyone is different when it comes to how much gear they carry, but if anything, gear is lighter than ever and people carry less than before since bikepacking has become a niche touring category where less is carried and UL gear is coveted.
#64
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Oh I was just being dramatic. They aren't literally mountain bikes, but they have taken a big step in that direction, IMHO obviously. The LHT and other modern touring bikes are more heavily built than (higher end) touring bikes of the 70s and 80s.
Camping gear is lighter for sure. But it seems to me that the trend is for people to carry more stuff, though everyone has their preferences.
Another possibility is that more people are touring on unpaved roads to get away from the traffic, which there certainly is more of now than when I first tried touring in the 80s.
Camping gear is lighter for sure. But it seems to me that the trend is for people to carry more stuff, though everyone has their preferences.
Another possibility is that more people are touring on unpaved roads to get away from the traffic, which there certainly is more of now than when I first tried touring in the 80s.
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My '93 Trek 930 touring conversion in its first dirt-drop iteration:
Then in it's flat bar touring iteration:
The main problem with the drop bar iteration was that it was too stretched out for me. The top tubes on these 90s mountain bikes are very long.
The flat bar build (VO Porteurs with a shorter and higher stem) was ok but not enough hand positions on the porteurs.
The next iteration will be drop bar again, but with the higher, shorter stem and some randonneur bars with less reach.
Then in it's flat bar touring iteration:
The main problem with the drop bar iteration was that it was too stretched out for me. The top tubes on these 90s mountain bikes are very long.
The flat bar build (VO Porteurs with a shorter and higher stem) was ok but not enough hand positions on the porteurs.
The next iteration will be drop bar again, but with the higher, shorter stem and some randonneur bars with less reach.
Last edited by TenGrainBread; 02-26-17 at 10:49 PM.
#66
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That's a IMO cool Trek MTB conversion. Keep us updated as you get it dialed in.
I'd think the first drop bar version had too much drop to the bars in relation to the seat. Personally I'd try to get them up to near level with the bars, perhaps an inch down. Gravel grinding is made difficult by excessively deep drop, especially on steep downhills on single track. But it sounds like you've already figured that out.
Those porteur bars seem to be based on old frenchie city bike bars. I used to have some. Not sure long distance was within the design intent. I'm wondering how albatross bars are going to work out as a gravel tourer for my Clem. Seems like they may have a few more positions.
I'd think the first drop bar version had too much drop to the bars in relation to the seat. Personally I'd try to get them up to near level with the bars, perhaps an inch down. Gravel grinding is made difficult by excessively deep drop, especially on steep downhills on single track. But it sounds like you've already figured that out.
Those porteur bars seem to be based on old frenchie city bike bars. I used to have some. Not sure long distance was within the design intent. I'm wondering how albatross bars are going to work out as a gravel tourer for my Clem. Seems like they may have a few more positions.
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Think big.
Like @seely above, I'm a 6 footer with long legs and best fit bikes normally found under guys who are 6'2" to 6'5" (61-64cm on a traditional roadbike) The two pictured below are set up to fit me as best they can; though the bars on the green one (1985 Raleigh Elkhorn Mountain Track) don't go down far enough for my liking and blue one (1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker) feels a bit short on the top tube, which I don't mind for single track, but would probably hate for touring.
BTW, both of these bikes are ones I'm thinking of selling this spring, so PM if you like to talk details or get exact measurements.
Like @seely above, I'm a 6 footer with long legs and best fit bikes normally found under guys who are 6'2" to 6'5" (61-64cm on a traditional roadbike) The two pictured below are set up to fit me as best they can; though the bars on the green one (1985 Raleigh Elkhorn Mountain Track) don't go down far enough for my liking and blue one (1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker) feels a bit short on the top tube, which I don't mind for single track, but would probably hate for touring.
BTW, both of these bikes are ones I'm thinking of selling this spring, so PM if you like to talk details or get exact measurements.
I should also point out that Surly's LHT is pretty much a dead ringer for Trek's '84/'85 830/850/870 (the 870 is exceedingly rare, btw).
Edit: attached, my 650b Trek 820.
Last edited by DIMcyclist; 02-27-17 at 02:00 AM.
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I agree with your general sentiments. Old school touring bikes were just a tad more beefy than a racing bike. BITD, though I dutifully built some heavy duty 27" wheels, I found that they were overkill and that my Fiamme red (tubular) training wheels were more than sufficient for loaded touring.
I think the trend has been to overbuild touring bikes enough so that a 250# dude with 50# load can ride it within normal parameters. I don't know if this is because people have gotten fatter, or it has become fashionable to carry a heavy load, or some other reason. In my view a LHT or whatever basically is a mountain bike, or at least a hybrid. I guess that's fine if you can use the extra strength and don't mind going a little slower.
Given that, converting an MTB to a touring bike makes perfect sense, especially if you plan on getting away from traffic and hitting the gravel. That's more or less what I'm doing with my Riv Clem. I figure it will be a good fire road explorer.
I think the trend has been to overbuild touring bikes enough so that a 250# dude with 50# load can ride it within normal parameters. I don't know if this is because people have gotten fatter, or it has become fashionable to carry a heavy load, or some other reason. In my view a LHT or whatever basically is a mountain bike, or at least a hybrid. I guess that's fine if you can use the extra strength and don't mind going a little slower.
Given that, converting an MTB to a touring bike makes perfect sense, especially if you plan on getting away from traffic and hitting the gravel. That's more or less what I'm doing with my Riv Clem. I figure it will be a good fire road explorer.
Also, while I see most of these conversions with fenders, I NEVER had these in my touring days. Bottom line, you're going to need rain gear anyway. And really high end, good quality rain gear at that. Rain gear that's fully waterproof, yet still allows some breathing, (this will NOT be cheap.) So if it is wet, you put on the rain gear anyway. When you ride with panniers, they block most spray from the back wheel anyway, and the down tube blocks most spray from the front. A good reason you also need high end paniers; they MUST be fully waterproof, the worst thing is having your packed clothes all wet.
I do have a vintage MTB that I've converted to a hybrid type bike, and it would probably make a good tourer. But it's a titanium frame with all XTR components with narrow tires; so pretty close in weight to what high end steel road bike would be; but still a little heavier. I bought this because the paved trails around here are really bumpy, and I wanted a softer ride than my road bike. I just bought a second wheelset so I can do a quick swap to ride singletrack or gravel trails. It would NOT be cheap to build a tourer at this weight or component quality level from an old MTB. I just think one would get a lot more for the money and end up with a lighter bike if one started with an old pro steel bike.
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