WhatAnotherHill

What upgrades have you made to make your vintage bike “better”

And if you want, what do you consider “taboo” for an upgrade? Any/All?

My 17 year old son wants to take over my 1982 Trek 614 21 speed for some long rides / tours. If he is serious, I’ve thought of upgrading from 27 to 700 rims. My reasoning is more tire options, and easier "emergency replacement" on the road. (I think I have the clearance, but will borrow a rim and tire from friend at my LBS.) He is interested in moving the shifters off the down-tube.

I like the bike original, but both of us like the idea of a 2nd generation using it to "hit the road" (but hopefully not literally).

Bianchigirll 

I have built a lot of mine from the frame up but usually I try and just change comfort items, a taller stem and or wider bars. maybe longer cranks. But I don't go crazy like some do taking a '86 Fuji Club and putting a 11spd Ergo Kit on it.

b dub 

Rationally spoken I think you shouldn't change anything. First let him ride it, then tweak it to his liking.

None of the upgrades are improvements if you ask me.

It's more important to give the bike a tune up (new tires / tubes, repack all bearings, new tape and cables, etc).

To improve performance the one thing you could consider is to upgrade the brake calipers to dual pivot.

WhatAnotherHill

Thanks, between your input and Bianchigirll, I'm getting the impression (to follow my heart) and leave the bike "original". Definitely get the bike in top mechanical shape, and comfort-wise a new seat if fine, and understandable, but keep the bike in it's classic format.

dedhed

Unless it's something special I don't have any problem changing or upgrading anything. My commuter Trek pretty much only has original stem, seat post, and frame. Everything else is 10 speed Ultegra. When I built something for my daughter she only had experience with indexed shifting and rather than frustrate her with friction I made sure it was indexed.

bhchdh 

Taller stems, Brook saddles, new tires and clipless pedals.

Velocivixen

1955 Phillips: rebuilt (650A) wheels from steel to aluminum laced to original dynohub, Kool Stop brake pads, and finally, rep,aced brakes with Tektro R559 long reach dusl pivot brakes. Fabulous and don't regret the changes.

crank_addict

I think its terrific if some youngster has interest in an older bike. If the updates makes them feel better and thought process into it, why not? Although would suggest stashing the original parts / wheels away and save for later.

While on the subject of the next generation and our beloved vintage bikes. I'm not pushing for it, but soon to see if a granddaughter will take to toe clips, down tube shifters, and top feed cables. And if goes as planned, will learn about and take care of tubular tires....lol. Kid is fast already but she'll be riding along for some Sat. AM group rides and maybe a C&V event or two. Modern is fine if that's what she wants, but its cool if a bit of history is preserved and the appreciation for old things. These kids get every damn new electronic thingy, the latest I- this or that so was hoping to teach them how to take care of and retain a little nostalgia.

(The bike she'll be hammering on is a Motobecane - faux BIC, tribute Ocana trimmed with Campagnolo 70's NR. Dang right and looking good with bright orange paint.)

repechage

On a bike that at one time was considered by most out of date, 120 mm rear spacing, nutted caliper attachment, clamp on everything, I updated it be brazing on shift bosses, fittings for one waterbottle, under the bottom bracket shift cable routing. It also got aero gran compe levers with through the Cinelli bar cable routing and an ultra six freewheel. It needs to be refinished again, I am considering restoring the covered chrome and with that a respray, the other modifications will remain I think, maybe returning to a clamp on shift cable guide.

The bike is 43 years old now, seen a lot.

Bianchigirll 

Not that I ever rode 27" wheels, other than on my Royce Union in school, I think the tire choice issue is over rated. Most of don't go browsing tires weekly like dresses and shoes at Saks, but have one or two tires we rely on. So odds are if you have a decent quality 27" tire your happy with what options do you need?

Now if you wish to upgrade an older bike to a 7,8 or higher index/cassette system then I could see changing because it is easier to buy 700c wheels off the rack rather than custom build 27" ones.

Pompiere

My son took a spill on his Fuji Club when he reached down to shift, so when I found a cheap set of 105 brifters, he asked me to put them on it. I had a 42 cm wide bar that I put on while I was at it, since I ride the bike on occasion.

On my bikes, I reasoned that I might as well be comfortable, so I have installed taller stems, wider handlebars, better saddles. My Miyata had a cracked hub and I found a freehub in the BOC, back when it passed through my house, so that went on, along with a wider range cassette.

I don't think I have changed the character of the bikes, I just tried to upgrade when the need arises. Unless you are talking MTB drop bar conversions, then all bets are off.

John E

1960 Capo: came with 58-45 ringset (OEM was likely 52-48), replaced with 49-46, also aluminum Simplex
Came with OEM 14-22 Caimi 5-speed freewheel, replaced with 14-26 ultra-6
Replaced galvanized spokes with stainless
Replaced Weinmann brake pads with KoolStops

1959 Capo: already had conversion from cottered steel to cotterless Nervar Star crankset
Replaced worn-out Campag. Gran Sport front derailleur with early Record
Replaced Campag. Gran Sport rear with 980
Replaced steel seatpost with Campag.
Replaced 5-speed freewheel with standard 6-speed, spread rear triangle to 126mm

Peugeot UO-8: built from bare frame with Japanese drivetrain and wheels

Bianchi: replaced Modolo brake levers with Shimano aeros, for better fit to my hands and increased leverage
KoolStop salmon brake pads (goes without saying)
Serfas ARC saddle
Regeared from 52-42/13-23 to 50-42/14-26, still 12 speeds
OEM Ofmega/Nisi wheelset went to 1959 Capo; now have Campag. hubs & rims

Schwinn mountain bike: replaced wheelset -- now have 8-speed cassette instead of 7-speed freewheel
Custom rear gearing, made by drilling out pins and merging two cassettes: 12-13-15-17-19-21-24-28
Changed gearing from 48-38-28 to 48-40-28, for a nice 1.5-step-plus-granny shift progression
Brooks Team Pro saddle
Handlebar extensions

davester

The only thing I've done to make my bike "better" (for me) is to add a triplizer, new bottom bracket, and long cage for the derailleur to lower the gearing in deference to my old legs and the steep hills around here. I suppose you could consider moving to dura ace low friction lined brake cables/housings and salmon brake pads as modernizing too, but those are really just maintenance items. Other than that my bike is the same as it was in 1981 when I bought it. I've ridden plenty of modern bikes with their brifters, dual pivot brakes and the like and the advantages are minimal at best as far as I'm concerned.

As far as taboo for vintage bikes, that's up to you but in my opinion the second you switch to a modern 9 or 10 speed brifter shifted drive train you no longer have a vintage bike. Aero levers and DP brakes are also in that vein but not quite as blatant. So, my opinion is that in general you should leave it as is. A caveat to that is that if it results in your son not riding the bike at all then obviously it's not the way to go.

Perhaps if you can persuade your son to see the down tube shifters as a manly rite of passage to put him in the same category as the heroic racers of the past (Moser, Merckx, Coppi, etc) he will give it a try and realize that it's no big deal and gives him a certain amount of "macho" over his friends with their sissy brifters. Otherwise, barcons (bar end shifters) are nice and are still vintage.

I disagree completely with the oft-stated suggestion that changing brakes to dual pivots will result in any improvement in braking performance. Objectively, the only advantage of the dual pivots is about 20% less hand effort required per unit of braking force due to the different lever arm length, and this comes with the disadvantage of low tolerance for out-of-true rims and reduced brake reach (definitely a problem if you want to move to 700C tires). Most of the time, vintage sidepull brakes perform poorly because they are using old cables, crummy pads, or they have never been disassembled and had the pivots cleaned and lubed. If you clean and lube the brakes, get some modern lined low friction cables and housings, and switch to new salmon brake pads the brakes will be perfectly fine.

ddeand 

My older bike was originally a "build-up" and had a mish-mash of parts on it. It was a really nice bike, though (1987 Gazelle Champion Mondial). But at my age, I didn't want to be reaching down to shift all the time, so I changed out the shifters to brifters. I feel much more secure with both hands on the handlbar while shifting. I'd suggest you start with what you have and see what he'd like to do. And maybe let him do the mods himself (with your assistance, as needed).

I hope you can have some nice rides together!

jimmuller 

I second the idea of letting him ride some before you start changing things. He may love it as it is, or he may be swayed by someone telling him that such-and-such is way better even if it isn't necessarily true. Which is to say don't start with the idea that some things simply must be upgraded. Having said that, I'd suggest the likely items for upgrading would be saddle and pedals. Everyone has a preference, it seems.

Since you asked... Most of my bikes were built up from bare frames so I used whatever components seemed right. The only real upgrade was for the Peugeot, alloy wheels, handlebar, seat post, pedals (w/toe clips and straps) and crank, compact-double rings, DT friction shifters replacing stem shifters, Suntour derailleurs replacing Simplex, Shimano or Suntour FW.

All my bikes but one have a modern saddle, the WTB Speed V, which is light, comfortable, and inexpensive. The Peugeot and Raleigh still have 27" wheels because that was the original size. I believe I can feel the greater moment of inertia of the slightly larger wheel but that may be my imagination and isn't significant anyway. The Peugeot's rims use Schrader valves because that's what it had ages ago when I started upgrading. Many of my bikes have new brake pads or Tektro DP brakes.

I wish I'd had 21 speeds back when I started. Your son is a lucky man for many reasons!

Bianchigirll 

BTW sorry to hear about the crash but that is a learning experience, and unfortunately regardless of the set up we all do stupid things and crash. I was putting my bottle back and hit a tiny hole and down I went! If he doesn't already teach him that no matter where his hands are on the bars always have your thumbs wrapped around the bar of brake hood. I hate seeing video of the TdF with the leader of the peleton resting his forearms on the bars.

Also if he wants to drive your classic he has to learn to friction shift, it might impress his friends. If he wanted to drive your '63 split window Stingray you wouldn't take out the 4 speed manual and put a hydromatic in it would you?

randyjawa 

Taboo = if you can't put it back exactly the way it was, then that is taboo, in my opinion. That said...


Eighties something Cyclops with Campagnolo Super Record group...



Same Cyclops with Shimano 10 speed Brifter group...



If, however, I wish to return the bicycle to original specs, all I have to do is put the original components back on.

JohnDThompson 

Used to be all Campy Super Record. First thing to go was the 53/42 crank, replaced by a Zeus 2000 48/36. Much better. Then the Record friction shifters got replaced by Simplex retrofriction levers. Mmm... Then some Campy Look-type cliples pedals. Finally, the Campy "globe" gum hoods failed and I didn't like the price of replacements, so I went with Modolo gum hoods instead.

jyl

I have upgraded or modified some of my vintage bikes.

1982 Peugeot PSV has had the entire component set, save only the shifters, seatpost and stem, changed to Mavic. I moved the Simplex shifters to the brake levers using Retroshift. Built new wheels on Mavic hubs and rims. This is my daily commuter, and it needs to be reliable. Wears fenders, lights, bell.

1978 Raleigh Team is almost stock. Changed the stem and bars to vintage 3ttt for better fit and lighter weight. Also a lighter saddle.

1997 Vitus 997 was a frameset. Built up with 1998-2006 Campagnolo 10-speed Record components.

1992 Brigestone XO-1 is dead stock.

1992 Cannondale R1000 has HiE hubs and Campagnolo tubular rims, the post and stem and bar are also changed. That was for lighter weight.

1974 Raleigh Gran Sport lost all the original components, save post and stem and bars. Wears Campagnolo 10-speed Veloce.

1986 Peugeot PX had its missing Mavic drivetrain bits, a PO had installed Shimano, replaced with later indexing Mavic. Also fenders and track. My son's high school bike.

197(?) Peugeot UO-8 got new rims, bar, saddle, fenders, rack, lights. It's my daughter's college bike now.

1974 Peugeot G60 was stripped, derusted, powder coated, redecaled, and various components installed. This became my son's first road bike. After it was my first road bike.

1961 Bianchi Specialissima will keep most of its components but be converted to a 650B randonneur. If it were cosmetically nicer, I'd keep it stock.

197? Peugeot PX-10 will be made into a sweet fixie. No, probably not. But I need to find something else to do with it. I don't need just another road bike.

fietsbob

as this is just about Road Bikes.. I put a Newer 8 speed type campag 50-40 (24)t 'race triple' on
and took off the Gippiemme/Campag Triple I built in the 80's as a Wide step 52/36 double off..

Cougrrcj

I've had my Fuji for almost 40 years, so just about everything besides the frame/fork has been replaced at least once. Some things were replaced for personal preference (installed Bar-end shifters), others due to wear or breakage.

The Univega I picked up a couple of years ago is set up with the same shifters (replaced downtube shifters for Barcons) for consistency's sake.

iab

One of my bikes had a Huret TdF (sucks).

Huret TdF RD by iabisdb, on Flickr

Changed is to a Campagnolo GS (very nice).

Campagnolo Gran Sport RD by iabisdb, on Flickr

Camilo

I'd do anything that will make the bike fun for him since it's intended to be ridden, and he'll ride it more. I really wonder how important it is to keep bike like that original anyway. But just keep the original parts and it's win-win. You can often find good, little used parts in the Tiagra/Apex/105 level for very cheap, so I doubt it would be a bank breaker.

On the other hand, you can find a pretty decent starter bike for <1,000

As for me, I've never had anything worth keeping original (and I really wonder if the OP Trek is? Just wondering), I would never hesitate to do what I needed to do to make the bike better and/or more fun to ride: saddle, handlebars, gearing. Again, if you're somehow worried about keeping it original, keep the old parts.

Paramount1973 

My Trek 420 already has 700c wheels and a triple 110/74 bcd crankset. It's going to get a 48/36/24 set of chainrings, 6-speed bar end shifters (Exage downtube shifters on Shimano bar end pods), short reach-short drop handlebars, Tektro aero brake levers and a quill stem to threadless stem adapter. And Tektro dual pivot sidepull brakes. I'm trying to resist the urge to put cyclocross interrupter brakes on it, I really love these things.

ezln64

threadless adapter stems make me cringe