side_FX

I have to agree that riding the bike is key to deciding. Case in point, I had the complete opposite experience than the above mentioned. I tried the Roubaix, Tarmac, Emonda, and Domane. I felt the Domane was far and away the best ride for me. Smooth and steady. The Emonda was probably the quickest, or twitchiest ??? but I would expect that. I found that I couldn't get the fit right with either Specialized models.The thing I really like about the Domane is you can spend as much as you want and have all sorts of aluminum or carbon, disc or rim brakes, and fit a wide range of tires on them. But when you are spending $2K or more....ride as many bikes as many times as you can and you'll most likely find the best bike for you.

brawlo

A lot of the feel of a bike will come from the wheels, tyres, and tyre pressures. Ideally, borrow a set of wheels to use on every bike you ride. That will tell you what the frame actually feels like to ride and take the real variables out of the equation.

First and foremost, concentrate on fit. If you can't borrow wheels, then the fit of the bike and look of the bike (make sure you buy something you like the look of, it will give a little help in getting on the thing) are most important. You can adjust the feel of a bike drastically just by changing the tyres and pressures.

Moriarty

There is a company in Toronto that rents road bikes. Been tempted to rent one for a weekend just to see how it feels to ride a road bike. Will have to check what brands they have.

Moriarty

I'm a little overwhelmed by all the information now but I thank you all. I'm really looking forward put all this new knowledge to good use.

JohnJ80

You can get overwhelmed with detail for sure. Spend some serious time thinking about what kind of riding you want to do and where you'll be doing it most. That's something you can understand and is super valuable input to the LBS when they go to help you select a bike. There is a wide range of bikes that go from all out criterium racing frames to truck-like touring/commuter frames. So you can get what you want but you need to know what that is. The best way to do that is to consult with your LBS and have a very good idea how you will be riding this bike.

J.

Aladin

At your weight level I'd pay close attention to the wheels. 2 grand bikes often aren't much for wheelsets.

sstorkel

Personally, I think it makes more sense to test-ride a bike with the wheels you'll use should you end up owning it. For most people, that means using the wheels sold with the bike.

DMC707

Here is mine --- it took me forever to get the 105 stuff dialled in to the shifting performance i like, (i was a spoiled guy, too used to Dura Ace for years- but now cant justify the expense ) -- but its acceptable now

A couple of things i have done to make the bike better for me is install a zero setback post --- I am a former track sprinter with short and tight hamstrings , larger quads, and i also tend to pedal toes down
-- what this does is puts my legs/hips at a more favorable angle when dealing with a thick beer muscle (5'9 and 300 lbs )

I also use Salsa cyclocross bars - they are a bit wider than stock , but also give me a few more hand positions ---

after years of trial and error, i have found the old Turbo style is still the best for my tired caboose

Tires were swapped from the stock 23's to a set of Continental 25's -- i am using the cheaper Conti Sport tires, but they are kevlar bead , reasonably sticky and the 25's are noticeably more comfy than the stock Schwalbes (not sure if it will fit 28's - but it would be worth a try )

Probably the biggest thing i have done to give my weak, 300 pound body a break is install a 10 speed MTB 11-34 cassette. I just did this recently on a goof to see if it would even work --- it does
--- i didnt swap out the chain though , so i have to be careful not to cross chain it if im in the big ring (usually not a problem as the only time i am big-ringing it is going downhill

--- but i dont want to rip the derailleur apart accidentally if i am tired and not thinking -- so my next step will be to install a longer chain and a mid cage derailleur

The angle on that photo makes it look like the bars are far below the saddle but in reality the drop from seat to tops is maybe 1.5" --- i have another 1.5" of headset spacers in case i drop 50 pounds , but as is, this position puts me in a sporty, performance oriented riding position and is comfortable for the long haul

With my track roots, i can usually pick apart a bike's weaknesses from the bottom bracket/seat stay area with just one quick stop sign sprint --- but i have to admit, even with the spindly seat stays on this one -- i'd say the bike will not realistically hold anyone back from a sprinting perspective either (pro riders and Cat 1 sprinters excepted possibly )

Pick your poison on bike style and just do it ---- The Synapse is a "comfort oriented" frameset, sure -- but even so, it still took me a bit of playing with to get it right for me due to my fat physique , but this thing is on point now though -

gabedad

6'3 225 I ride both

1st was a synapse alum.

Now I ride a Madone 5.2 full carbon.

They definitely ride differently . I am pretty flexible and LOVE my madone. unfortunately I got a cracked rim ( not due to weight) and went back to the synapse this week. Still a nice ride but not as snappy as the madone. It also feel a little weird because now I am used to being a bit more bent over

DMC707

Are both bikes on equivalent wheelsets? Now you have me curious if i am missing out on something with my Synapse --- however, the carbon vs aluminum thing may be an apples to oranges comparison

No matter -- i dont want to hunch over anymore than i already am , - LOL - at 6'3 and 225, you likely look more like a basketball player than some of us Clyde types

brawlo

That can be true, but if you actually want to compare bikes and how the frames ride, then that is the best way. It is important for the OP and any other new rider that wants to test bikes to understand the contribution that wheels and tyres play in the road feel of a bike. Wheels are also one of the first things that a clyde rider will replace because ↓↓↓

And then changing the wheels can significantly alter how your new bike feels to ride

Moriarty

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I hadn't thought about changing out the handlebars. I guess right now I'm hoping that the stock ones work but good to know that's another spot where i can make things fit me more.

afterburn

I just bought a Fuji Sportif and have ridden a Specialized Roubaix. Obviously the SR is a carbon bike and FS is aluminum (carbon forks). The FS also has 28mm tires and the SR has 25. The geometries are remarkably similar (at 58cm only notable difference is .5 degree steeper HTA on FS) and they have remarkably similar components (Tiagra drive, disc brakes).

I will grant a slight edge to the SR in dampening. Its a really nice bike. If money were no object, I probably would buy the SR (even a higher level model). But at less than half for the FS, it is really, really freaking close in ride. Yes, the SR dampens our freakish potholes a little better. Very slightly but noticeably for sure.

I have a carbon seatpost coming for the FS. I may add bars or stem in carbon at some point. Really like the Sportif. I am only 215lbs, but I definitely found I could subtly flex the frame on both bikes under heavy pedaling uphill seated. A little lateral. A little vertical. Probably slightly less for the FS.

I am not a racer and I value comfort in my ride. I may even try 32-35mm tires which should fit the FS (SR has slightly lower clearances). I like the direction toward endurance-cross-gravel bikes simply because most riders are not bombing down mountains at mach stupid. Even if we aren't racing cyclocross or grinding gravel, we don't want a crappy heavy hybrid or even a touring bike, unless we are touring. I don't mind being down in the drops. But the slightly more upright FS and SR appeal to me because I ride in traffic or with my kids from time to time. I like the visibility. I actually find you can be too upright such that it creates a little discomfort in the crotch area. But that was easily fixed by swapping the smallest stem spacer to the top of the stem from the bottom.

gabedad

I upgraded my wheels to these except they were older by a year

Pure Aero 700c Wheel Set 2014 clearance

on my madone they are bontrager race - a little heavier but not as aero

used to be 340 had Gastric bypass in 2011. went down to 183. Now I am try to lose so I can't group anymore

side_FX

Which is a crime in itself

etw

jsigone

man I'd be scared to run that large of a rear cog and not have a fresh / longer chain on the bike. SOOO much wrong can happen there from broke parts to rearD locking up the rear wheel and over the bars at said speed.....ouch.

ColonelSanders

jaxgtr

For me, I found I prefer the race geometry frames. I made a mistake buying a synaspe last year, just never felt comfortable on it, in a weird way, it was too relaxed for me. So I opted for a Trek ALR which is still race oriented, but not as relaxed as the synapse, defy, demane, roubaix, etc. It fit me like a glove and decided it was the bike for me.

DMC707

just dont cross chain in the big ring--- big ringing it is such a rare occurrence for me, i could live with a 1x drivetrain anyway--- but if im going downhill in the big, i am usually using the bottom 5 gears on the cassette

as well, if the b tension screw is adjusted correctly there will not be a problem with derailleur/cassette interference