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So I bought a Gunnar Roadie today...

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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

So I bought a Gunnar Roadie today...

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Old 11-13-15, 12:28 PM
  #51  
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[TABLE="class: tg"]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-07dj"]Component[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]Dura-Ace 9070[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]Dura-Ace 9000[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]Ultegra 6870[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]Ultegra 6800[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]105 5800[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Shifter Levers[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]237[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]363[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]315[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]419[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]486[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Rear Derailleur[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]217[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]160[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]271[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]193[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]234[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Front Derailleur[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]114[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]67[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]167[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]86[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]89[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Crankset[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]636[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]636[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]694[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]694[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]736[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]BB Cups˛[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]67[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]67[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]76[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]76[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]76[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Cassette (11-25)[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]163[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]163[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]226[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]226[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]269[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Chain (116 links)[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]248[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]248[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]260[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]260[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]253[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Brake Calipers[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]294[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]294[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]340[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]340[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]378[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Internal Batterył[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]58[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]0[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]58[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]0[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]0[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-07dj"]Groupset Weight in grams[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,034[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]1,998[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,407[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,294[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,445[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

[TABLE="class: tg"]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-07dj"]Component[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]RED 22 BB30[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]RED 22 GXP[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]FORCE 22 BB30[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]FORCE 22 GXP[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]Rival BB30[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]Rival GXP[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Shifter Levers[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]280[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]280[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]307[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]307[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]332[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]332[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Rear Derailleur[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]145[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]145[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]178[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]178[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]180[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]180[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Front Derailleur[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]69[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]69[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]79[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]79[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]89[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]89[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Crankset (53×39 172.5mm)[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]557[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]609[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]697[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]715[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]860[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]844[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]BB Cups / Bearings[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]53[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]105[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]53[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]115[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]53[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]115[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Cassette (11-25)˛[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]151[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]151[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]247[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]247[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]260[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]260[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Chain (114 links)[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]246[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]246[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]256[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]256[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]259[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]259[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-nrw8"]Brake Calipers (Mechanical)[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]240[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]240[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]280[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]280[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]300[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-huh2"]300[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: tg-07dj"]Group Weight in grams[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]1,741[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]1,845[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,097[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,177[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,333[/TD]
[TD="class: tg-by3v"]2,379[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
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Old 11-13-15, 12:42 PM
  #52  
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fair enough but battery and buttons are almost 1# heavier than their mechanical brothers, but more of a convenient item or selling pitch Component Weights

DA 9000 is 1998 grams
6800 Ult is 2294 (heavier then "lower" end rivals)

Mind you that weight weenie in the grouppo is static and never changes like with wheels/rims/tires/tube combos.
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Old 11-13-15, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
<LARGE WEIGHT TABLE>
Right, the difference between the two top end groups is really about 150grams, comparing like-for-like. i.e. SRAM doesn't (yet) have electronic groupset (and when they do it will weigh more than Red, I'm betting), also Shimano don't make BB30 cranks.

SRAM Rival GXP compared to 105, the difference in weight is only 66 grams.
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Old 11-13-15, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dr_lha
SRAM Rival GXP compared to 105, the difference in weight is only 66 grams.
And only 85 grams heavier than Ultegra. Seems they targeted it right in the middle between the two.

The shifting difference though... makes me
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Old 11-13-15, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jsigone
^^ it would be about 2 pound lighter if you swap out the battery grouppo for Sram Red...if you wanted to be a weight weenie about it w/o compromising structural parts

Ultegra 6870 Di2 is 2,680g
Dura Ace 9070 Di2 is 2,047g
Sram Red 22 is 1764
Sram Force 22 is 2088
Sram Rival is 2214

Except I didn't want mechanical stuff and especially not SRAM mechanical. Had eTap been around, I would have looked at that.

But, I do agree that it would make for a very light steel bike. Steel is easier an easier material for a custom fit frame and this demonstrates that one can have a nice light steel bike.

J.
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Old 11-13-15, 01:50 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by dr_lha
Like I would have suggested it otherwise! 😄
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Old 11-13-15, 04:13 PM
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I really like my Crosshairs. I test rode the sport in a 58. I opted for the Crosshairs because of the wider tires I could run. Enjoy your Gunnar
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Old 11-14-15, 06:28 PM
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Had this happen to the front tire at the 25 mile mark of my third ride on the Gunnar this morning:



Thank God it wasn't while I was descending at 30+ mph 10 minutes earlier, but rather as I was topping a hill and going slow.

I started hearing "foomp, foomp, foomp" and thought I was getting a flat. Touched the brakes to stop and check it and BAM! Scared the crap out of the rest of the guys.

Is that a tire defect? Continental GP4000 II with ~60 miles on it.
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Old 11-14-15, 06:56 PM
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On the positive side, before the tire went, I was having a great time on the bike. Easily my favorite bike I've ever ridden.

Same as I mentioned before, its light, nimble, quick, fast and still the most comfortable road bike I've ever been on. It's just feels really playful to ride and feels lighter somehow. I usually can't tell bike weights too much when riding on flats, but this bike has a lighter feel to it than my Jamis does.

It dawned on me today that it is as light as a Lynskey R240 (possibly lighter as the Lynskey had Force22) but it is also stiffer while being more fun to ride and considerably more comfortable at the same time. After hearing how much titanium is the super metal, I disagree. I think the lighter steels are the better way to go, imo.

If you are thinking about building up a steel bike, Gunnars seem to be a good way to go.
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Old 11-14-15, 08:48 PM
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Looks more like a cut or damage mounting than a tire defect.

And it's great that you like it. Steel can be fantastic.So can Ti. Or aluminum, or even carbon. Bear in mind you have a data set of two.

Also -- dark grey can go really, really well with blue. Have a look at this -- dark grey with blue King bling.
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Old 11-14-15, 11:32 PM
  #61  
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Do you mount your tires with your bare hands? (you should)

I'd vote defect, especially if you bare handed it on.
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Old 11-15-15, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
Had this happen to the front tire at the 25 mile mark of my third ride on the Gunnar this morning:



Thank God it wasn't while I was descending at 30+ mph 10 minutes earlier, but rather as I was topping a hill and going slow.

I started hearing "foomp, foomp, foomp" and thought I was getting a flat. Touched the brakes to stop and check it and BAM! Scared the crap out of the rest of the guys.

Is that a tire defect? Continental GP4000 II with ~60 miles on it.
did the cords separate on the crown of the tire too? I had a similar experience with a Clements tire on my rear a couple weeks ago. Friend at bike shop said deffintate defect on my tire and I could probably get a reimbursement.
I got the tires from western during a 25% day and figured not worth the hassle
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Old 11-15-15, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
I started hearing "foomp, foomp, foomp" and thought I was getting a flat. Touched the brakes to stop and check it and BAM! Scared the crap out of the rest of the guys.

Is that a tire defect? Continental GP4000 II with ~60 miles on it.
I had a very similar problem with a Continental Gatorskin! I was descending at the time, but luckily had slowed to let a large group of much faster descenders past. It turned out that the carcass of the tire had separated from the Kevlar bead, allowing a large portion of the tube to squeeze out and then explode like a gunshot. I tried booting the tire but the hole just kept getting larger and larger. I was out of cell phone range at the top of a mountain so walked downhill for a while and then eventually got a ride back to civilization and made the Call of Shame.

I put the incident down to a defective tire and stopped using Gatorskins. Disturbing to see a similar problem with GP4000, which is what I've been using recently. Might have to start looking for a good non-Continental tire
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Old 11-15-15, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
Had this happen to the front tire at the 25 mile mark of my third ride on the Gunnar this morning:



Thank God it wasn't while I was descending at 30+ mph 10 minutes earlier, but rather as I was topping a hill and going slow.

I started hearing "foomp, foomp, foomp" and thought I was getting a flat. Touched the brakes to stop and check it and BAM! Scared the crap out of the rest of the guys.

Is that a tire defect? Continental GP4000 II with ~60 miles on it.
scary for sure. hopefully, it was a rear.

That's the #1 reason I ride tubulars. The other thing I never expected was that I never get flats anymore. Rode this entire year (so far, knock on wood) without a flat. I'm up to about 5000 miles between this year and last without a flat. Then there is the weight savings as well.

Originally Posted by Jarrett2
On the positive side, before the tire went, I was having a great time on the bike. Easily my favorite bike I've ever ridden.

Same as I mentioned before, its light, nimble, quick, fast and still the most comfortable road bike I've ever been on. It's just feels really playful to ride and feels lighter somehow. I usually can't tell bike weights too much when riding on flats, but this bike has a lighter feel to it than my Jamis does.

It dawned on me today that it is as light as a Lynskey R240 (possibly lighter as the Lynskey had Force22) but it is also stiffer while being more fun to ride and considerably more comfortable at the same time. After hearing how much titanium is the super metal, I disagree. I think the lighter steels are the better way to go, imo.

If you are thinking about building up a steel bike, Gunnars seem to be a good way to go.
Very cool! I agree with you on the high tech modern steel bikes. The combination of a steel frame with a carbon fork is just really hard to beat. Great to hear you are having fun with it. It's really cool when things come together like this.

Gunnar is really a hard deal to beat. The frame costs are very modest for what you get. It's a compelling deal, IMO.

J.
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Old 11-15-15, 03:52 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
Had this happen to the front tire at the 25 mile mark of my third ride on the Gunnar this morning:



Thank God it wasn't while I was descending at 30+ mph 10 minutes earlier, but rather as I was topping a hill and going slow.

I started hearing "foomp, foomp, foomp" and thought I was getting a flat. Touched the brakes to stop and check it and BAM! Scared the crap out of the rest of the guys.

Is that a tire defect? Continental GP4000 II with ~60 miles on it.
Was this a tire that the bike shop mounted. I had a tire do that once, it was because I mounted it badly. Basically an explosive pinch flat.
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Old 11-15-15, 03:55 PM
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Nah, I installed the set.

I didn't that bad installation can cause a portion of the tire/bead strip to rip off.
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Old 11-15-15, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
Nah, I installed the set.

I didn't that bad installation can cause a portion of the tire/bead strip to rip off.
I dunno. When my tube went "bang" it blew the tire off the wheel. That said the tire bead was intact.
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Old 11-15-15, 04:24 PM
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I've had that happen before due to a tube pinch during install, but when that happened, it was all the sudden and no damage to the tire. And that's usually during the first air up or first mile of ride.

This was after 60+ miles of riding that week. 25 miles in, I hear the foomp, foomp, foomp as if something was out of place already and when I touched the front brake, then the explosion.

I submitted a warranty claim to PBK. Interested to see how it it works out. I bought another tube and tire yesterday and already have it back on the bike.

This time I slowly installed it. Double checked for pinches (although I checked last time as well) and the aired it up, listened for the bead to set in and took it to full pressure. Then completely deflated the tube, broke the bead away from the rim, checked it again for a pinch, aired it back up, listened for the bead to set in and then took it to full pressure again. Rolled it looking for bulges, found none, put it on the bike, rode it up and down the street. Seems fine, but then again so did the last one.
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Old 11-15-15, 04:28 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by sstorkel
I had a very similar problem with a Continental Gatorskin! I was descending at the time, but luckily had slowed to let a large group of much faster descenders past. I put the incident down to a defective tire and stopped using Gatorskins. Disturbing to see a similar problem with GP4000, which is what I've been using recently. Might have to start looking for a good non-Continental tire
I had about 5,000 miles on Gatorskins without issue before swapping to the GP4000's. I only swapped because I heard that the ride was better and there was much less rolling resistance, but I worry if the GP is durable enough to go where my Gators have gone. We shall see.
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Old 11-15-15, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jarrett2
I had about 5,000 miles on Gatorskins without issue before swapping to the GP4000's.
I mean without defect issue. I ran over something that would have flatted my truck tire once and it took out the Gatorskin. Also ripped out a sidewall once when I dropped it down into a crack at speed and almost went over the bars. But just normal wear and tear, they are awesome tires.

I hate to think Continental has QC issues on their tires though.

Last edited by Jarrett2; 11-15-15 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 11-15-15, 07:38 PM
  #71  
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I thought Conti tires were well known for their sidewall issues. That said, the failures are usually higher up than the build.
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Old 11-16-15, 10:51 AM
  #72  
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I'd vote defective. You likely had a bulge form and when you hit the brakes, it squeezed it. Conti is pretty good with RMA, go back to the shop you got it from and let them deal with it.
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Old 11-16-15, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jsigone
I'd vote defective. You likely had a bulge form and when you hit the brakes, it squeezed it. Conti is pretty good with RMA, go back to the shop you got it from and let them deal with it.
How are they with paying medical and death benefits from defective products?

This is scary.

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Old 11-16-15, 11:17 AM
  #74  
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Something you will have to contact their lawyers on But you should protect yourself and family with your own insurance plans, roadies are dangerous with people in a rush or drunk or texting. 1-5M umbrella + life.

Seriously, any tire can fail, any rim can fail. Luck has allot to do of where it happens on your ride.
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Old 11-16-15, 11:26 AM
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It was definitely a sober reminder of how things can go wrong on a ride. So thankful, I was going slow when it happened, because I had been doing some really dumb **** just a few minutes earlier on this same front tire.
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