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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

400 lbs with physical limitations

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Old 07-30-17, 12:12 PM
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400 lbs with physical limitations

Hi there! I've wanted to get a bike for years. It will help me exercise and help me better exercise my very anxious dog. I've also been quite terrified because of my weight. I'm concerned about injury due to something not holding me. I'm 400 lbs, heavy in the middle and about 5'7".

I've recently visited a local bike shop and have gotten a quote on a modified bike that they've suggested can hold me. The cost is quite high, which is fine, but I do not want to pay it will NOT hold me.

I've been reading some forums and recommendations here differ from what was recommended in store so I wanted to ask you all your thoughts. The store recommended a Townie with wider & stronger wheels with more stokes. They've also quoted a more sturdy seat post. Nothing I've read for larger riders suggests a townie, but this is the bike that is more comfortable and is pretty lower as I have a short upper body and problem with my knees.

I really don't intend to do much at first. My weight has taken a toll on my body, my knees, etc. I want to basically ride on trails with my dog and ride to class.
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Old 08-03-17, 05:26 PM
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A lot of people recommend a Workman brand bike. They are built tough to take a lot of weight.

If money is not all that tight, you could think of building up a strong steel frame to make a bike to hold your weight.

Something like a Surly Troll frame with 26" 36 spoke wheels, or tandem wheels, would be able to handle your weight I think.

People here, or at a decent bike shop, will be able to help with component selection, but the main things are a good strong frame and a tough wheelset. Once you have suitable wheels, a frame and maybe a strong seatpost and saddle, you can use any normal components.
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Old 08-04-17, 08:15 AM
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^ I agree with the above. If you can break sub 300, and ideally 250 you can ride pretty much anything, and will open your used options considerably.

Most people who are not cyclists, or haven't cycled in the past will spend a great deal on cycling equipment and then never ride it. It would be a tremendous waste to spend on specialty equipment that you don't follow through with using.
With that said, the aforementioned clyde forums offer a great deal of insight, motivation, and support to folks that post regularly.
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Old 08-06-17, 07:47 AM
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Maybe Admin could move this down to Clydesdale & Athenas... OP will find an entire group of people in that forum that were in similar situation and have gone through the issues of starting cycling again on the heavier end of the scale. Tons of benifitial information and opinions along with a boat load of supportive people.
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Old 08-06-17, 12:58 PM
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I let this sit where you started it in case you got the replies you're looking for. I don't see the desired activity, so I'm going to move this to C/A. Good luck on the journey!
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Old 08-06-17, 02:47 PM
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400 pounds? That really isn't a limitation on a bicycle unless the company has lawyer limits (many bike companies do).

A good aluminum or steel framed bike with upgraded wheels or even some of the carbon fiber bikes will work, again with the upgraded wheels.

I started riding a road bike at 396 pounds and chose a Raleigh Revenio 2.0. I had to upgrade the rear wheel, and put on a different stem to make me sit more upright on the bicycle (my son now rides this bike). When I hit a bit over 360 pounds I purchased an Orbea Orca (carbon fiber bike) and rode the heck out of it. I have since picked up a very nice set of wheels and made some other upgrades to the bike.

Yes I am 6'3", but the concern is weight not height.

Also you might look at recumbent tricycles as they can be fun.
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Old 08-06-17, 07:25 PM
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Thanks everyone.

I understand losing the weight first is obviously the goal, but I have some physical limitations that make it harder for me. My doctor and trainer suggested a bike so that's why I'm trying to go with this instead for now.
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Old 08-06-17, 07:27 PM
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Also, I already eat at a calorie deficit and usually mostly veggies and fish.

I've got some issues that have been shown in lab work to contribute to my difficulty in losing.

I'm making this purchase because I've thought long and hard about it and absolutely intend to use it.
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Old 08-06-17, 07:28 PM
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Plenty of us here are heavy and still ride. Get a bike, ride the hell out of it. If you stay on smooth pavement and don't jump or abuse it, you'll be fine. Ride with the stock rear wheel until you kill it, *if* you kill it, and then upgrade.
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Old 08-06-17, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dagray
400 pounds? That really isn't a limitation on a bicycle unless the company has lawyer limits (many bike companies do).

A good aluminum or steel framed bike with upgraded wheels or even some of the carbon fiber bikes will work, again with the upgraded wheels.

I started riding a road bike at 396 pounds and chose a Raleigh Revenio 2.0. I had to upgrade the rear wheel, and put on a different stem to make me sit more upright on the bicycle (my son now rides this bike). When I hit a bit over 360 pounds I purchased an Orbea Orca (carbon fiber bike) and rode the heck out of it. I have since picked up a very nice set of wheels and made some other upgrades to the bike.

Yes I am 6'3", but the concern is weight not height.

Also you might look at recumbent tricycles as they can be fun.
Thank you for this. It makes me feel a bit more at ease. The store also said this but I was worried they just wanted to sell a bike
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Old 08-06-17, 07:41 PM
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I'm no where near your weight, but have a friend who once was. When he got into cycling his great concern was not the frame or wheels in terms of strength, but of the tires rolling off the rims under the pressure (torque) of a hard turn. Basically, none of us want to crash and he was thinking in terms of ways it could happen.

He commuted to work and back (~ 34 miles round trip) on his Specialized comfort bike for about a year and shed a good bit of weight. As I recall he went though two sets of tires.

Sometimes we agonize over the wrong things; it might be helpful to see the bike not as an investment to be later sold at a premium resell price, but as a tool to be disposed of when it is worn out. Seen that way, the health dividends will more than outweigh the dollar value of the tool.

More than anything else, just get started.

Incidentally, my friend never crashed.
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Old 08-06-17, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by A_poetiq
Thank you for this. It makes me feel a bit more at ease. The store also said this but I was worried they just wanted to sell a bike

I was in getting my rear wheel trued for the third time in a month and told him that it was okay to think of me as a fat guy, and to please quit trying to sell me things I would break. He got a sheepish grin and found me a wheel in the back room that held up (only one or two broken spokes in a year).

It has been a five year journey, but I have dropped from 406 pounds down to 345 pounds plus or minus 10 pounds.

When you buy the bike get a bike fit and change components as necessary to make the bike fit you and to displace your weight evenly on the bike. This will not only help with efficiency (using your pedaling to go farther, faster, or longer distance), but will also greatly help with your comfort.

Get a bike, ride one mile round trip, and if you have more energy do another mile; the next day do two miles, then three miles... You can do this.
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Old 08-06-17, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dagray
I was in getting my rear wheel trued for the third time in a month and told him that it was okay to think of me as a fat guy, and to please quit trying to sell me things I would break. He got a sheepish grin and found me a wheel in the back room that held up (only one or two broken spokes in a year).

It has been a five year journey, but I have dropped from 406 pounds down to 345 pounds plus or minus 10 pounds.

When you buy the bike get a bike fit and change components as necessary to make the bike fit you and to displace your weight evenly on the bike. This will not only help with efficiency (using your pedaling to go farther, faster, or longer distance), but will also greatly help with your comfort.

Get a bike, ride one mile round trip, and if you have more energy do another mile; the next day do two miles, then three miles... You can do this.
I was very clear from the beginning to not feel they were being disrespectful and I only wanted to spend my money if we could find a bike that would fit my needs.

So happy for your progress. I've lost some swimming, but as it can't be summer forever, I really wanted to delve into riding my bike to maintain activity.

Thank you so much for your encouragement. I'm really excited about it!
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Old 08-07-17, 04:22 PM
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OP

What exact Townie did the shop suggest? how many gears? What modification did they suggest?

also what type of terrain to you ride on? flat, some hills, etc

I am a fan of having lots of gears.....it is better on knees and body to pedal faster/easier (lower (easy) gear) than to push hard (higher (hard) gear)

Looking at the townies specs it should be fairly sturdy 26' wheels, double wall rims, stainless spokes, brass spoke nipples. The gears, brakes, etc are ok pretty basic entry level but should work well.

my personal pick would be the 21D, ( the 21 EG if it rainy and you want to commute) more gears and trigger shifters seem to last better than twist grips.
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