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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 11-01-05, 06:30 PM   #51
Corcis
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Threadjack: For those with TII: Does being out of shape affect one's chances of getting diabetes severely?
For those who have stronger wheels built, about how much did they run per wheel? I am just getting into it and am hoping not to break a wheel, but I want to be able to handle it monetarily if it happens.
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Old 11-01-05, 07:22 PM   #52
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That's a sweet ride, pardner!
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Old 11-01-05, 07:32 PM   #53
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Reply to Corcis

I roll with stock Rolf Vector 18F 20R wheelset. Properly tuned spokes, good tires, and innertubes are the trick. I use Maxxis and Panaracer tires, 700x25. The best innertubes I've used are Continental Race 28. If you dont know how to true your tires, learn. Being able to touch them up on the road can save your spokes. If you do your own wheel maintenance. Follow normal tire maintenance. On rides check you wheels when your at the halfway point. I use Pedro's Ice wax on my chain. I wax it before every ride. Remove all extra lub. Remember lub is for the chain only. Never put lub on the cassette or chain rings. Keep those clean. Use a teflon dry lub on the the shifters. Keep them clean to not atrack dirt. Have the BB, headtube, and axle bearings checked once a year. We stress the hell out of moving parts. Keeping clean and properly lubed prevents failures. I'm 260# and the Rolf's with 18-20's are proof that proper maintenance is the key to keep rolling not spoke count.

Last edited by bluyak; 11-01-05 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 11-01-05, 07:56 PM   #54
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in january i was 6'2 248 lbs.
now after serious riding and considerable weight training, i am down to between 180-185.
now only if i can get to 160 or something, i would be very happy

Last edited by maxknee; 11-01-05 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 11-01-05, 08:01 PM   #55
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I'm 6'3", 225 lb. I've gotten back into cycling after a long time off as a way to lose weight with something fun and interesting.

But I'm not trying to get out of the 200+ club. I consider 200-205 to be my ideal weight. Thankfully, being tall means I feel no pressure to get into the 100's.
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Old 11-01-05, 09:15 PM   #56
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Im 6ft 215lbs. I'd like to get to 185-190. But for some reason my wieght never changes. I look thinner, but thats about it. I've learned the hard way to stay away from carbon seatposts, ti pedals, and cheap stems.
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Old 11-01-05, 10:00 PM   #57
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[QUOTE=Corcis] Does being out of shape affect one's chances of getting diabetes severely? QUOTE]

Yes. Type 2
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Old 11-01-05, 11:08 PM   #58
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/38096831@N00/

I haven't lost any weight because I eat like a pig, but I did hit 3 riding goals this spring/summer including a full century and two tough canyon climbs.

My bike is heavily modded and fits me like a glove, a real pleasure to ride. Lots of DA bits including brifters and ders.

Nomo
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Old 11-02-05, 02:36 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmcdade
Another clydesdayle here...6'1" and 215-220 depending on the day and time.
I'd love to see how that sub-kilo CR-1 frame flexes under 220 pounds...
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Old 11-02-05, 06:51 AM   #60
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6'1" 208lbs here...I ride a 2004 LeMond Tourmalet...I can't post a (another) pic at this time as my computer is fried...I am posting this from work. I was up to 296lbs a few years ago and had to get my weight under control....been a tough battle but it was worth it. I needt to lose another 20 to make me and my docs happy.

Cheers,

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Old 11-02-05, 07:34 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LóFarkas
I'd love to see how that sub-kilo CR-1 frame flexes under 220 pounds...
There is no flex that I can tell from this frame. This bike is super stiff, light, and can take a beating...that's why I chose it. This bike is 100% Clydesdale proof. I tested ALOT of bikes before buying this one and this one clearly stood out from some of the others.

Last edited by kevinmcdade; 11-02-05 at 07:54 AM.
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Old 11-02-05, 07:51 AM   #62
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I'm 6'3" and 210, which is about 10 lbs over my racing weight (off season weight gain = beer) and while I've been as light as 185 after five days of climbing on El Capitan in Yosemite, I have generally stabilized at around 200. I ride a custom Dave Arnold frame, (local S. Cal builder) which is sooo sweet. He used oversized Scandium mtn. bike tubing for the three main tubes with Easton carbon seat stays. Hung with Durace and Ksyrium SSC (racing) and Elite (training) wheels.

Myself and the wife after the local Montrose ride


Here's a picture of what real climbing looks like, 2500 feet up El Capitan
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Old 11-02-05, 07:59 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdraft
I'm 6'3" and 210, which is about 10 lbs over my racing weight (off season weight gain = beer) and while I've been as light as 185 after five days of climbing on El Capitan in Yosemite, I have generally stabilized at around 200. I ride a custom Dave Arnold frame, (local S. Cal builder) which is sooo sweet. He used oversized Scandium mtn. bike tubing for the three main tubes with Easton carbon seat stays. Hung with Durace and Ksyrium SSC (racing) and Elite (training) wheels.
Thanks for posting a pic to show that not all "clydesdales" are fat...some of us are just big guys.

Do you have any more pictures of your bike? It sounds like a great build.
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Old 11-02-05, 10:09 AM   #64
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yep Kevin, size has both advantages and disadvantages for me. If it's flat (ala crits) then I love to be able to motor and hurt the small guys who make me suffer like a dog when the road goes up for any length of time.

Here's a couple of shots of my bike. It has a bit of a compact geometry which really makes a difference for me. My old standard geometry frames just don't have the ride this thing does. Plus for a bike my size it weighs in under 18 lbs and that is with some heavier stuff on like like stem, handlebars etc.



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Old 11-02-05, 12:28 PM   #65
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How did I miss this thread until today?

I am a clydsdale, 6' 2" and 260, down from 295.
My road bike is an Orbea Aspin. Broke three spokes on the rear wheel last month (2500 miles on the bike) so bought a new rear wheel. Campy record hub and open pro rim, Performance had a deal on it $180.00. Was told by more than one shop this should be OK for my weight.

My mountain bike is an Older Cannondale Super V1000. I keep thinking about removing the "Cannondale" from it and having "Clydsdale" made to put on in it's place.

This year I am joining a gym over the winter. I want to try and keep the weight loss going over the winter, instead of maintaining like I did last winter.
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Old 11-02-05, 01:35 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinmcdade
That is true bike pr0n. I think I'm in love.

Tim.
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Old 11-02-05, 01:40 PM   #67
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More pr0n. I sure do love me the Bianchis.

Tim.
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Old 11-02-05, 01:51 PM   #68
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Hi. My name is Tim, and I'm a Clydesdale.

After over 15 years out of the saddle for the International Fat-n-Lazy Competitions, I returned to biking at a svelte 269. After almost two months of 5 mile per weekday commutes and 25 to 40 mile weekend rides, I'm down to 258. I'm proud to say that my 2006 Trek 1000 has held up like a champ, utterly refusing to buckle under my heft.

I got back into cycling for two reasons: 1) to get back into shape and lose some weight, and 2) because I love it. I raced sanctioned NBL and ABA BMX in high school, and rode an all-Campy Bianchi for a few years after high school.

I hope to get down to the 215 range. Any less than that and I'd look sickly, because I'm 6'3" tall. :-)

Tim.
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Old 11-02-05, 03:42 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdraft
yep Kevin, size has both advantages and disadvantages for me. If it's flat (ala crits) then I love to be able to motor and hurt the small guys who make me suffer like a dog when the road goes up for any length of time.

Here's a couple of shots of my bike. It has a bit of a compact geometry which really makes a difference for me. My old standard geometry frames just don't have the ride this thing does. Plus for a bike my size it weighs in under 18 lbs and that is with some heavier stuff on like like stem, handlebars etc.
I agree...the small guys definitely put a whooping on me in the hills. I can maintain pretty good on the flats and do alot of passing on the down hill but I suffer when the road goes up. This winter I am going to leave the weight lifting alone and stop drinking 3-5 protein shakes per day and try to get my weight down to 195 or so. The bulk of my weight is upper body muscle mass that I am so ready to lose now that I am into cycling.

Wow!!! That is nice looking bike. Does the builder have a website?
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Old 11-02-05, 03:50 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karlfitt
How did I miss this thread until today?

I am a clydsdale, 6' 2" and 260, down from 295.
My road bike is an Orbea Aspin. Broke three spokes on the rear wheel last month (2500 miles on the bike) so bought a new rear wheel. Campy record hub and open pro rim, Performance had a deal on it $180.00. Was told by more than one shop this should be OK for my weight.
I put a set of Velocity Deep V's on my beater bike. I had them built up with 36 spokes front and rear. They are bomb proof. I paid $288 for the set, delivered.
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Old 11-02-05, 06:50 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corcis
Threadjack: For those with TII: Does being out of shape affect one's chances of getting diabetes severely? For those who have stronger wheels built, about how much did they run per wheel? I am just getting into it and am hoping not to break a wheel, but I want to be able to handle it monetarily if it happens.
1. Being fat SEVERELY increases chances of diabetes.
2. I can't answer on custom builds, but factory 36 spoke, 3 cross wheels with V-rims (Alex) are readily available at about $100 per pair. These have been plenty strong for my 260# carcass.
3. The only "racey" alternative to the above Clydesdale wheels that I've found are Campy Vento wheels, which are ALSO bulletproof and have been plenty strong for me.

Happy shopping!
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Old 11-02-05, 09:23 PM   #72
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Just for fun (sometimes).
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Old 11-02-05, 10:16 PM   #73
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Cyclesematic: Details? I'm new to the road bike subtypes, but I'll give it a go: Double chainring, single rear cog (derailler, not horizontal dropouts), the headset and frame angles look kind of like a trackbike of some sort. The wheels, 700c in the rear and 650c in front? And what kind of handlebars are those? It looks like a fun ride!

Quote:
Originally Posted by iamtim
...I'm proud to say that my 2006 Trek 1000 has held up like a champ, utterly refusing to buckle under my heft.

Tim.
Cool, makes me happy to hear. I'm riding an '06 Trek 1000 also, but the blue/black coloring. It's a blast.
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Old 11-02-05, 10:38 PM   #74
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cyclesematic, looks like a straight block you are running but what is it.. 11x19 9?
nice bike..
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Old 11-03-05, 08:35 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corcis
Cool, makes me happy to hear. I'm riding an '06 Trek 1000 also, but the blue/black coloring. It's a blast.
Watch the wheels if you get a flat. I got a flat, hit a pothole, and WHAM! Right into the shop to be trued.

Then again, that'd probably happen with any wheelset. *shrug*

Tim.
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