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  1. #26
    Up and comer pelotonracer's Avatar
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    Yep, the '06 Ventos are now just a bit over 1700g (according to website), making it a relatively light 'clyde wheel. But man, who cares about weight- don't tell me you can get another for $200 that looks so sweet!

  2. #27
    Dolce far niente bigbossman's Avatar
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    While browsing for unrelated parts, I hit the Yello Jersey website. They have a nice selection of pre-built Velocity wheelsets for good prices. Check it out:
    http://www.yellowjersey.org/velwp.html
    "Love is not the dying moan of a distant violin, it’s the triumphant twang of a bedspring."

    S. J. Perelman

  3. #28
    road+steel=love
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    Cane creek?
    You guys have any opinions on Cane Creek stuff?? I glanced at their Volos line since they offer the durable-yet-light OC rear rim. Now if only I could find their stuff in parts and build my wheelet as I wish intead of buying an $800 wheelset.

  4. #29
    Banned Bikepacker67's Avatar
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    So nobody goes the "touring wheelset" route?
    Such as a nice pair of 36h A719's?

  5. #30
    Clydesdale
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dial_tone
    If $1,500 falls out of the sky I'll get some Zipp 404's for duathlon/triathlon.
    Gotta go with the 404 Clydesdale.
    -DavisClydesdale
    -2006 Cervelo Soloist Team
    -2002 Bianchi Bergamo

  6. #31
    nm+
    nm+ is offline
    Ultra-clydesdale
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikepacker67
    So nobody goes the "touring wheelset" route?
    Such as a nice pair of 36h A719's?
    Gave them away in Pelican Rapids, MN.
    My touring wheels (700c):
    36 Hole Bontrager Mavrick up front/lX hub (came with the bike)
    48 hole Bontrager Clyde (best name, ever) with high flange XT tandem hub with shortened axel. i swear this is teh strongest bike part I've ever owned.
    MTB(26):
    X517/36DT/XT
    MTB2(26):
    Front: 217/36DT/LX
    Rear: Rhyno Lite/36DT/LX

    I've killed:
    36 hole
    the a719s, bontrager mavrick (however, this was a great road set), a 36 hole , 217, x517
    32 hole: Everything

    So far, I've never killed a rhyno lite or a clyde.
    Somewhere between 300-250ish. Loaded touring done with 50 extra lbs.
    Breaking bike parts for more than 20 years
    Titus Racer-X AL/Trek 520 (Cracked)/Trek 930

  7. #32
    Senior Member gear's Avatar
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    Mavic rims and Sapim spokes; strong like bull.

  8. #33
    Senior Member
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    My cross wheels are 32 front 36 rear. mavic cxp 33 laced 3 cross to King hubs. Fixed gear 36 front and rear. 3 cross Suzue Promax hus laced to Ambrosio Evolution Rims. I have not any problems with these. My rear road wheel on other hand is 32 hole 3 cross Campy hub laced to a Campy Moskva 80 rim and it comes out of true every four Months.
    Last edited by prodigal son; 09-20-06 at 03:35 PM.

  9. #34
    Senior Member
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    I've started riding again back in May of this year- back when I used to ride, the wheels you got on your bike were the wheels you used! I'm 6'3" 250. Since I started riding again, here's what I've tried and the results:

    Mavic Open Pro/ultegra hubs 32 spoke from Performance- used for 200 miles and were out of true- got them true again, but haven't put them back on for round 2.

    Xero xr3's- used for about 100 miles until I got the open pros- stayed perfectly true, but I was uncomfortable with the 20 spoke count rears, so I removed them and sold them.

    Gimpiemme T-due 24 spoke Rolf Patent design- used for about 100 miles as well and they are still true as well- removed to upgrade to Kysriums.

    2006 Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL's- used for ~100 miles and broke a spoke when trying to catch a light- was told by the shop how rare this was and how they never see broken spokes on these (funny that they would stock the spokes though). I guess I'm just super strong- NOT!

    Velocity Deep V 40 spoke- 500 miles with no problems, still perfectly true even after some pretty good hits to them. Weigh about as much as my bike, but I know I'll be able to finish my ride on these.

    In summary- I love the Mavic wheels- both the Open Pro and the Ksyriums are great wheels- they accelerate better than the other wheelsets- but so far, they've been the only two to give me problems (granted the Open pros may be a build issue). The deep v's so far are as advertised.
    Are we having fun yet?

  10. #35
    Senior Curmudgeon
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelotonracer
    Campagnolo Vento G3's...
    ^ +1 for this advice! If you're less than 250#, have a Campy drive train, and want FANTASTIC wheels, the Campy Ventos are absolutely great!

  11. #36
    Senior Curmudgeon
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigal son
    My cross wheels are 32 front 36 rear. mavic cxp 33 laced 3 cross to King hubs...
    And here's my experience with Mavic CXP-33s:

    catastrophic wheel failure - why?

  12. #37
    No one carries the DogBoy
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikingMD
    Cane creek?
    You guys have any opinions on Cane Creek stuff?? I glanced at their Volos line since they offer the durable-yet-light OC rear rim. Now if only I could find their stuff in parts and build my wheelet as I wish intead of buying an $800 wheelset.
    I'm 220 (lost 10 lbs in the last two weeks ). I have 3 sets of wheels that I ride regularly and I've had no trouble with any of them.

    1. Cane Creek Volos XL. They are cool, not too heavy and provide marginal aero benefit. The rim is VERY strong and the ride is stiff. 3000 miles and no issues.

    2. Krysrium (sp?)Elite. 9000ish miles and only one problem (slight out of true) after nailing a rr crossing at 40 mph. These are good light all around wheels.

    3. Mavic A719's w/ 105 hubs. These things are HEAVY. I use them in the winter with studded tires. NOT a good setup if you don't want to realize how much your wheels weigh every time you go uphill. DEFINATELY the wheels you want if you ride loaded through ice-rutted roads.

    I've also ridden Mavic MA3 rims and they are okay also, but I did notice the weight of them a bit when compared to #1 or #2.

    I have a buddy (250 lbs) that swears by the Easton Orion wheelset and another (210ish) that swears by Rolf Viggor. I think those are all out of your price-range though.

  13. #38
    Gears? CliftonGK1's Avatar
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    I'm 6'6", 260 pounds, and not very polite to my wheels. I'll be truthful: I beat up every part of my bike as though I hate it. Amazingly, I've done well with my wheel choices. The stocker hoops on my bike were Specialized 26 x 1.5 32h 3x laced to DX hubs. I had to replace the front one after being hit by a truck, but it lasted me a long time. The rear didn't hold up so well, but the Mavic XC717 3x laced to an XT hub seems to be doing the trick now. It doesn't go out of true as much as the stocker hoops did, and it doesn't feel as 'flexy' when I'm standing and mashing up hills.

    I'm slowly gathering the parts to build a Surly Cross Check ss/fg for my next commuter ride, and I'm looking to go totally bombproof on the wheels since they'll be subjected to my Sasquatch-like bulk stomping and torquing up a 3/4 mile hill on my daily ride to work. I've been thinking that Velocity Deep V hoops 3x laced to 36h Phil Wood Kiss-OFF ss/fg flip-flop rear and matching 36h Phil K-O front would do the trick. My only issue is that the Phil hubs are pretty expensive. I'll spend the money if I need to, but are there other companies that make a 132.5mm spaced, 36h, ss/fg flip-flop?
    "I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
    - Mandi M.

  14. #39
    Chairman of the Bored catatonic's Avatar
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    Ritchey Comp. I weigh 235 and bomb my bike down brick roads just fine with them.....the same roads that made my Campy Sciroccos crack.

    I mght try the new sciroccos though, they look a bit tougher this year around.
    -------- __@
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    Ring Ring, Ring Ring, the bell went Ring Ring Ring.

  15. #40
    Senior Member Bearbig's Avatar
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    I have the same problem. I'm 6'1" @ 240 and have just noticed that a few spokes are starting to pull the eyelets from my Ritchey Girder rim after 2300 mi. I had the same problem last year with a Ritchey OCR. I ridw a 28 in the rear usually a gatorskin @ 110psi. What am I doing wrong?? Do they make Titanium rims?

    Thanks in advance
    John

  16. #41
    30 YR Wrench BikeWise1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eatadonut
    Oh whoop de dip. The Open Pro builds a wheel that's just as strong as a Deep V, is almost exactly the same price, the only difference is that the Deep V will ride stiffer than the Open Pro..
    In my opinion the Open Pro is nowhere near as strong as the Deep V. I've built lots and lots of wheels. Open Pro is a rather old box design with known eyelet issues. The Deep V has got triangulation on it's side along with about 40g of metal. I don't like to spec the Open Pro for riders over 200lb. Yes that's conservative. But I specialize in wheels and have a reputation as a problem solver. Open Pros just aren't stiff enough to give a long stress-affected area with minimal tension change,(tension change breaks spokes) especially when I offer a lifetime truing and spoke breakage warranty on wheels I spec.

    Quote Originally Posted by Eatadonut
    The DT R1.1 is an awesome rim, but I've not been able to find them for less than about $120/pair, though that could be well within the OP's budget depending on the rest of the build.
    Totally agree. The RR1.1 is a great rim, but in this case I'd probably spec the deeper RR1.2....and that leaves, what, $180 for hubs, spokes and labor? Remember folks, the hub is the heart of the wheel. Whatever you do, don't cheap out on the hubs. When the hub dies, so does the wheel.

  17. #42
    Senior Member formulaben's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeWise1
    ...tension change breaks spokes...


    Remember folks, the hub is the heart of the wheel. Whatever you do, don't cheap out on the hubs. When the hub dies, so does the wheel.
    Just in case someone missed it. Great post.
    "Strong, light, cheap. Pick any two." — Keith Bontrager

  18. #43
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    In addition to budget, the other thing that I think is important to know is what the rider's attitude is about user-friendly serviceability. Do you take your wheel and your Visa card to the LBS when you get a small lateral blip, or do you just take out your spoke wrench? I think the Ultegra/Open Pro still has the most going for it in the weight-to-strength/user-friendliness/price matrix of tradeoffs.
    I do like the Cane Creek products, though I haven't ridden on them. It could well be that having the spoke nipples at the hub is a particular advantage for heavier riders. If you can find the Volos for $300, buy 'em. You can probably find a pair of NOS Aeroheads for $200 or so. If you wanted the bladed look and it were a couple of weeks earlier, you could have had a set of Rol SL28's for $199, but they're gone now. You can get a good buy on a Forte Titan set (relabeled Neuvations) at Performance right now, but I have no experience with them.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelotonracer
    Campagnolo Vento G3's, $200.

    http://www.totalcycling.com/ProductD...9-22c864a8fc19

    Lighter than Velocity Deep-V, bulletproof, semi-aero, not to mention BLING! You WILL get attention with this wheel.

    You DO have a Campy drivetrain, right?
    I am building up a 30 year-old race bike that's all old campy. Those rims would really make it look sharp. I will just be using the bike for training so the extra weight does not concern me, and the price is better than the Ksyriums I was considering. It's difficult to believe the rims could support Clydesdale weight. Thanks for the tip.

  20. #45
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    They have a lot of lustworthy stuff over at that Irish bike warehouse. Did you notice they have the new Ultegra compact cranksets?


  21. #46
    POWERCRANK addict markhr's Avatar
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    95kg/210lbs

    bomb proof wheels (but stiff as hell)

    Hubset – DT Swiss 240S disc 32 hole
    Spokes – stainless straight gauge 2.0 laced 3 cross
    Rims – Mavic CXP33 black 32 hole

    the wheels could be made even stronger if built with twisted and soldered spoke intersections
    shameless POWERCRANK plug
    Recommended reading for all cyclists - Cyclecraft - Effective Cycling
    Condor Cycles - quite possibly the best bike shop in London
    Don't run red lights, wear a helmet, use hand signals, get some cycle lights(front and rear) and, FFS, don't run red lights!

  22. #47
    30 YR Wrench BikeWise1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pelotonracer
    Campagnolo Vento G3's, $200.

    http://www.totalcycling.com/ProductD...9-22c864a8fc19

    Lighter than Velocity Deep-V, bulletproof, semi-aero, not to mention BLING! You WILL get attention with this wheel.

    You DO have a Campy drivetrain, right?
    Just don't expect the rear wheel to be round. I was just at Interbike. Without exception, every rear Campy wheel with that spoke pattern was noticably out of true radially. Fronts seemed OK, but the rears.....yeesh.....

  23. #48
    Steel is Real. markw's Avatar
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    Amazing... Anyway, I just built a new rear wheel for my recumbent. 28 spoke powertap hub and Velocity 650c Aerohead. I've been riding on 650c Uriels for 3000 miles with 0 problems, 24 spoke rear and 20 front. Of course the 650c is going to be slightly stronger at similar spoke counts.

  24. #49
    Clydesdale
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    I have Alex X2100 rims. I broke 2 spokes in the first 1500 miles. I recently had the rear relaced with new spokes, and I just broke another one. Argh.
    -DavisClydesdale
    -2006 Cervelo Soloist Team
    -2002 Bianchi Bergamo

  25. #50
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    Here's another thought: your front and back wheels don't have to match, and the rear one takes all the abuse. I use a 48 spoke Phil Wood cassette hub with a 700x32 tire on the back of my bike. Works great.

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