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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    need advice on rear wheel for a super clydesdale!

    I apologize in advance if this has been covered before, but I am using my cell phone as my internet browser.

    Here is my situation, I have an old schwinn le tour road bike that I am in the process of converting to a single speed/fixie. I want to change my wheel set over to 700c instead of the 27" I have now. What I need advice on are the components I will need to have an absolutely bomb proof rear wheel built. I figure I would get a flip flop hub so I can try both ss and fixie, but I don't even know what kind I need. So any help will be greatly appreciated.

    So you know, I am 6'5" and weigh just over 350lbs. Hopefully less by the time this season is through.

  2. #2
    o.O Seggybop's Avatar
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    Deep V rim (shape = uber strength), 36 spoke.
    MTB hubs are stronger than track hubs, so get a MTB disc brake hub and bolt a cog to it.
    mi yu mi yu

  3. #3
    Senior Member crankstar's Avatar
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    Deep V rim (shape = uber strength), 36 spoke.
    MTB hubs are stronger than track hubs, so get a MTB disc brake hub and bolt a cog to it.
    Does that really work? Any cogs/hubs that work better for this?

  4. #4
    o.O Seggybop's Avatar
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    Yes, it really works.
    I'm using a nashbar singlespeed hub with a generic bmx cog bolted onto the disc brake mount now.
    It's designed as a singlespeed cassette hub so with my configuration it's flipflop fixed/free.
    mi yu mi yu

  5. #5
    jack of one or two trades Aeroplane's Avatar
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    ... or you could just get a Kogswell hub, they are rated for offroad use. Then you don't have to get a special bolt-on cog. Also, you won't have to stretch the dropouts out to 135mm.

    Other options for rims include most 29'er, cyclocross, and touring rims. All require excessive durability and strength. High spoke counts (36 and higher, if you can) are your friend.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Irwin Goldstein
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    the most irrational form of exercise I could ever bring to discussion.

  6. #6
    aka mattio queerpunk's Avatar
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    on ebay a month or so ago, there was a phil wood-deep v with 40 spokes. that prolly would have done you nicely. but it's long gone.

    so this post is far from helpful.
    the hipster myth.

    i practice vagabondery.

  7. #7
    Biggity-bam
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    If you have the money check out the Level Component hub, its about 220 bucks (which includes a 16 tooth cog). A deep-v with a high spoke count laced to one of those would live longer than I would riding it.

  8. #8
    Senior Member mattface's Avatar
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    this seems so obvious. Buy a Phil Hub. Not only are they considered bomb proof, they have your name engraved on them. Sure it'll make for an expensive wheel, but you can keep it for life, and use it on every fixed/Singlespeed you own. If my name was Phil this would be a no-brainer.

  9. #9
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    Is that $220 for a hub and cog alone? If so, then I don't think I could afford that.

    All the suggestions for the deep v I didn't understand at first. But now I realize its a Velocity rim and the deep v is a particular kind. That makes sense now. So from what I have found about this rim I can get 40 spokes or 46 spokes I believe and that would make a strong wheel. But all the hubs I have seen only go up to 32 or 36 holes. Where Do I find a hub that has equal amount of holes to match the rim?

  10. #10
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    I just saw your post mattface. I wil have to look into that hub more. He even signs his "P" like I do. That would be really cool. But my question about how many holes on the hub still stands. I don't understand what I will need.

  11. #11
    THIS SPACE FOR RENT
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    Phil wood hubs are going to be up around 200 bones as well, more once you put a cog and lock ring on there. I wouldn't get all in a tizzy about using the highest end components. Just get a Surly or even a formula hub drilled for 36 spokes, and some beefy rim. I'd reccomend using one meant for tandem bikes or touring, as they're meant to carry your weight and more. There are a ton of options, most around $30-40. The biggest factor is going to be getting somebody who knows what they're doing to build the wheel. Let us know where you are geographically and we can reccomend a good local wheelbuilder. The builder will probably be able to get the parts and make some reccomendations for you as well.

  12. #12
    Senior Member brunning's Avatar
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    velocity dyad tandem rim laced to a surly or similar heavy duty hub. no need to drop $350 on a wheel.

  13. #13
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    wow that stuff is pricey. I appreciate you providing an option on the other side of the spectrum. I am in Southern California, in the San Fernando Valley, and more specifically in Chatworth (the porn capitol of the world) Your assistance is greatly appreciated.
    I am sure there is an answer for this somewhere, but if the rim is for 40 holes, do they drill 4 more holes on the hub? or is there a way to use a 36 hole hub with a 40 hole rim? sorry if it sounds ridiculous.

  14. #14
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    is the dyad rim beefier than the deep v?

  15. #15
    Senior Member brunning's Avatar
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    it's probably stronger, as it's meant to hold the weight of two riders and comes in 40 and 48 holes, so if you find an appropriate hub, you can build a pretty bomb-proof wheel.
    Last edited by brunning; 05-03-06 at 01:02 PM.

  16. #16
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    The dyad (or any other touring/tandem rim) is way beefier than the deep V. You're getting reccomendations for the deep V because 90% of the people on SS/FG think that there are about 3 rims in the world, and the deep v is the only one worth having. They're good and all, but mostly they're just in style right now; see the 1001 threads about people looking for them in red or pink or mauve or taupe, followed by the 1001 threads about how awesome their new colored deep v's look.

    A hub has to be drilled from the factory for the same number of holes as it will have spokes, else the holes won't be even. Technically you could drill out a 20 hole hub for 40 spokes, or lace a 40 with only 20, or other math games like that, but the moral of the story is that if you have a 36 spoke rim you need a 36 spoke hub. I would get a 36, but I wouldn't mess with a 40; I don't even think you could get a fixed gear hub in 40h unless it was some weird old stuff, and there are plenty of people with tandems using 36 hole stuff without problems.

    Others can help you out with wheelbuilders in your area. That's about the end of the advice I would look for on this forum, your wheelbuilder will have much better advice about what you should use and what he can get you for reasonable $$.

  17. #17
    we're here, we steer!! mrRed's Avatar
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    Phil wood will drill it any way you want.
    Culture? Art? Making a difference? Hey, go **** yourself. We're too busy drinking, doing drugs, trying to **** random people and you want us to make money on top of all that? Really?

    Well, ****. I don't give a ****.

  18. #18
    antisocialite dirtyphotons's Avatar
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    never been there, but this place comes highly recommended:

    http://www.bicyclekitchen.com/

    they can probably answer a lot of your questions, and since it's a co-op they probably won't try to sell you a bunch of **** you don't need.

    one more concern when switching from 27s to 700s is your brakes. if they have enough room to slide the brake pads down to fit a 700c wheel, then you're solid. they might not reach all the way down, however, and you definitely don't want your brakes to squeeze on your tire. in that case you'll likely find this article very helpful.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/home-drop.html

    good luck and enjoy!

  19. #19
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    Lots of good stuff going on at the kitchen, but this guy needs a real wheelbuilder. Anybody?

  20. #20
    Team Beer Cynikal's Avatar
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    You also need to keep in mind that a symetrical track (or ss) wheel is significantly stonger than a dished wheel for gears. You should be fine with a 36 hole setup. I would also highly recommend having a really good wheel builder build it for you. Ask a good local shop or other folks from LA. Get some big tires too, at least 25's. This will help protect your rim.
    I'm not one for fawning over bicycles, but I do believe that our bikes communicate with us, and what this bike is saying is, "You're an idiot." BikeSnobNYC

  21. #21
    Iguana Subsystem dolface's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrRed
    Phil wood will drill it any way you want.
    yup, and they warranty their stuff for life (and they're rated for offroad too).

  22. #22
    o.O Seggybop's Avatar
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    a velocity rep told me that the Deep V is actually stronger than the Dyad, but the Dyad is lighter. for what it's worth.
    mi yu mi yu

  23. #23
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    The OP seemed to indicate that he didn't have the budget for high dollar solutions... Phil is well worth the money, but if you haven't got it....


    When I started riding my bike, I weighed 300 lbs, which isn't too far off 350. I bought an entry level Specialized tourer (Sirrus) and it has worked fine for me. It's got cheap 36 hole hubs and wheels and I've never had serious trouble. It will be well worth your time to learn how to true a wheel because 350 lbs WILL knock them out of true.

    Deep Vs and other strong rims will work fine. A tandem rim would probably be worth the investment, but I doubt it will be that important in the end. If you take it easy on the wheels and avoid potholes and jumps you should be fine.

    The most important thing, as others have indicated, is being sure that they're built well.

    edit: I highly recommend Velocity rims, especially in this case. They warranty their products very well and (from what I've seen) would be willing to work with you if you should find a way to trash your rim.

  24. #24
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    Im 200 lbs 6' 4"
    My recomendation is to get a good 32 hole rim with eyelets. (mavic open pro DT 1.1 etc)
    Lace it to a solid hub . surly or phill or paul.
    dt swiss alpine 3 spokes.
    Have it built 3 cross by a qualified wheel builder, ride it for a month.
    Then re true and have it tied and soldered.
    I have a set like these and have not had to true them in 3 years over 11000miles.

  25. #25
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    as nice as the Phil Wood hubs are, I cannot spend that kind of cash right now. I still need some other things to complete the schwinn and other projects. I appreciate the advice and I may use it in the future for a different build, but I want to do this first one on the les expensive side.
    Thank you for clearing up the hub/wheel hole questions I had.
    My brakes have some adjustment room on them and I tested a 700c wheel in my fork already, so I am not worried about the reach.
    So from the information I have gathered so far, I am looking for a Dyad or Deep V rim. I have seen the Iro High Flange flip/flop hub for $45 on their site. Is that a good hub, or could I go for even cheaper?
    As far as spokes go, should I be looking for the thickest guage?

    I really appreciate all the information everyone is providing.

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