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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 08-21-06, 02:19 AM   #26
jtree
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asking for saddle advice is fruitless. everyone is different and for every saddle recommended there are people who think the same saddle is some kind of medieval torture device. personally a gel saddle makes me numb from my waist to my knees in about 30 minutes.

in my opinion testing out a saddle on an indoor trainer will also prove fruitless. every saddle makes me numb on an indoor trainer. also some saddles feel great for 30 minutes but 2 hours into a ride they can make you feel miserable. and other saddles feel painful for the first 15 minutes and then they feel comfortable thereafter.

take $500 out of your bank account. start buying saddles one at a time. you'll be lucky if you find one that you like before running out of money. after you buy your first saddle you might want to try the for trade thread at the top of this forum to find someone to swap saddles with.

Last edited by jtree; 08-21-06 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 08-21-06, 08:01 AM   #27
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Check at your local LBS. A lot of them will let you try out a saddle and if you don't like it you can exchange it for another as long as it isn't damaged. Mine does here and it is a big help. I am down to 272 and I ride a WTB Speed V Comp. I just finished my first fifty miler and the only thing not hurting was my rear. You can find them pretty cheap on the net.
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Old 08-21-06, 08:59 AM   #28
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It really is the width of your bone structure that matters more than your weight, so somebody else that weighs 230lbs telling you what seat they like is not going to be that much help. (unless you want to measure and compare sitz bones) You just have to try them out.
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Old 09-14-06, 05:20 PM   #29
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In general, I've had good luck with a variety of saddles from the following companies:

Fizik
Specialized
WTB

I also had an older Selle Italia "Future" that was surprisingly comfy. In general, features I find useful include the perenial cutout, a narrow nose to reduce thigh-chafing, and at least some padding on the sit platform.

My posture on the bike makes a world of difference in what saddle feels good, though. On my road bikes and touring bikes, the above mentioned saddles were all fine. On my MTB, however, I seem to be sitting more upright and am seeking a wider, more padded saddle.
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Old 09-14-06, 07:55 PM   #30
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I don't see clyde as something that impacts saddle much. its all about sit-bones, which don't vary based on weight.
And as a tourer, i must suggest a brooks. I love my b-17. You might need something wider. BTW, if you order from Wallingford (http://www.wallbike.com/), they will let you return no questions
Also for the record, I'm 6'4" with a (real) 32" inseam.
Before that, I ran (and still do on my MTB) a Sefas Cosmos.
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Old 09-14-06, 10:53 PM   #31
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I use a Terry Liberator, liking that cutout! I toyed with the idea of getting a Brooks, haven't pulled the trigger yet.

ps. I'm 6'2" with a 30" pants inseam and 31" inseam as measured for the bike. Yeah, I ride a custom bike (56.5) after a stock 520 didn't work for me.
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Old 09-14-06, 11:41 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by -VELOCITY-
Take it from a big Clydesdale. Get a Brooks B-17. You won't regret it.
+1
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Old 09-15-06, 12:20 AM   #33
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Anyone used the Forte Pro SLX saddle?
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Old 09-15-06, 02:06 AM   #34
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Brooks all the way. B67's on my Trek 830 (road morphed) and on my 520. Both also have North Road bars to compliment the posture. My new Sequoia has a B17 because the posture is a bit more aggressive with drop bars, although it's not really a "racing" type of roadie. If I were to buy that type of bike, I would have a Pro on it.

I've done The Quest. My shop is littered with failures. Brooks saddles get you a true custom fit in no time. And, leather gets you long range comfort.
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Old 09-15-06, 06:09 AM   #35
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I have a Brooks B17, it was/is hell. I am at over 3000K on it with no treatment other than some Kiwi neutral I put on it now and then, especially in the hot months. It has some vague shape to it now with cheek creases in the leather but its still as hard as a tank.

I am 5' 11.5" @234 and I can manage about 20K on it before I want to get an ass transplant
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Old 09-15-06, 09:56 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by SimonEd
I have a Brooks B17, it was/is hell. I am at over 3000K on it with no treatment other than some Kiwi neutral I put on it now and then, especially in the hot months. It has some vague shape to it now with cheek creases in the leather but its still as hard as a tank.

I am 5' 11.5" @234 and I can manage about 20K on it before I want to get an ass transplant
Just curious: What type of bike do you ride? Do you have an upright posture or more road type. Some clydes have trouble with B17's because they are relatively narrow and the ischials tend to get forced apart. That happened to me when I used a 17 on a bike that was setup for a less aggressive fit. I find a 17 is great on my Sequoia, though. My 225lbs seem distributed around the bike better.

At 3000km that 17 should be very comfortable for almost unlimited miles in a day.

BTW, I also use Kiwi neutral. Keeps the slickness so you stay dry and cool.
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Old 09-15-06, 10:09 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nm+
I don't see clyde as something that impacts saddle much...
Hi nm+!

I must respectfully disagree. The "pounds per square inch" pressure that a true clyde puts on a saddle is significantly greater than that imposed by a lighter rider. This additional stress is often beyond the design parameters of the saddle. Saddles that aren't exceptionally robust will break down under the weight of a clyde. I speak from experience on this issue since I totally pancaked a Brooks B17 in two weeks of riding!

How to tell what saddles will "hold up" and which won't? In general, any saddle intended to conform to the rider (Brooks leather saddles, Fizik Arione, etc.) are NOT going to hold up under uberclydes. They may be OK for the average clyde, but for rider weights approaching 275 and above, forget it!

Finally, not only should seats be carefully chosen, but seat POSTS should also be looked at. During my last accident, I was thrown up a few inches and came down on the seat. The stress sheared the single-bolt of the seat post, and the seat (and I) were deposited on the pavement. For uberclydes, TWO BOLT SEAT POSTS should be considered mandatory, IMHO.

You're free to disagree with the above paragraphs. I post from my personal experience, and others may have different histories.
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Old 09-15-06, 11:32 AM   #38
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+1 for the Brooks B17, but +5 for it being an individual thing. we've all got different definitions of pain and comfort.
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Old 09-15-06, 02:00 PM   #39
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i have a couple b17 saddles, but my favorite saddle of all time has to be


selle san marco strada with the crmoly rails-

i started riding them some time ago, it just fits in all the right places.

nothing fancy, just a real workhorse of a saddle, though the one i now ride has ti rails, i rather the heavy crmoly rails for more weight.

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Old 09-16-06, 02:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcm
Just curious: What type of bike do you ride? Do you have an upright posture or more road type. Some clydes have trouble with B17's because they are relatively narrow and the ischials tend to get forced apart. That happened to me when I used a 17 on a bike that was setup for a less aggressive fit. I find a 17 is great on my Sequoia, though. My 225lbs seem distributed around the bike better.

At 3000km that 17 should be very comfortable for almost unlimited miles in a day.

BTW, I also use Kiwi neutral. Keeps the slickness so you stay dry and cool.

I have a Norco Kokanee of 01 Vintage but its well mongrelized

Handmade Mavic 36H Real on XT, 32 Tioga XC on the front. The absolutely "Stop on a Dime" Avid BBDB, cant say enough good things about it. Michelin Transworld City (go to 90 psi + very fast) and the boiler plate saddle. Tiagra 39/52 Chainset for blasting past poseurs on road bikes that are weekend warriors



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Old 09-16-06, 02:12 AM   #41
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double post
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Old 09-16-06, 02:39 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarHorizon
Hi nm+!

I must respectfully disagree. The "pounds per square inch" pressure that a true clyde puts on a saddle is significantly greater than that imposed by a lighter rider. This additional stress is often beyond the design parameters of the saddle. Saddles that aren't exceptionally robust will break down under the weight of a clyde. I speak from experience on this issue since I totally pancaked a Brooks B17 in two weeks of riding!

How to tell what saddles will "hold up" and which won't? In general, any saddle intended to conform to the rider (Brooks leather saddles, Fizik Arione, etc.) are NOT going to hold up under uberclydes. They may be OK for the average clyde, but for rider weights approaching 275 and above, forget it!

Finally, not only should seats be carefully chosen, but seat POSTS should also be looked at. During my last accident, I was thrown up a few inches and came down on the seat. The stress sheared the single-bolt of the seat post, and the seat (and I) were deposited on the pavement. For uberclydes, TWO BOLT SEAT POSTS should be considered mandatory, IMHO.

You're free to disagree with the above paragraphs. I post from my personal experience, and others may have different histories.
I crossed the country (mostly) starting at 280 (now 250ish) on my brooks. I ahve absolute faith in it. Yes, it may not last 30 years like for lighter riders, but hell, 5 is more that I'd need.
Yes, the PSI issue exists, but brooks makes some wide saddles.
The seatpost thing is important though. A light seatpost is just dumbe as is one way to close to the min ,line.
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Old 09-16-06, 07:51 AM   #43
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I can't say enough good things about the Selle Italia Strike SMP TRK. This is the lower-end model that costs about $75, but it's a bit wider and has a bit more padding than the $200 Strike saddles. The biggest difference is that this one isn't real leather. But it still has that Strike SMP design, and I'm telling ya, it works great.
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Old 09-16-06, 09:05 PM   #44
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SimonEd:

Cool bike. And, more than a little upright in the setup. As I thought. The pic of the saddle clearly shows that your ischials rest perfectly spot-on for a B17. I will posit that you simply need a wider saddle due to the down pressure caused by the setup. You have effectively created a comfort bike - albeit a fast one. If you're going to sit up and back that far, get yourself a B67. I very much doubt you'd regret it. They don't have the cross-sectional arch of a B17 because they are wider and therefore, flatter. More give right from the get-go. You will not pogo on the springs, no matter what some people may say. The gage on those springs is .093" and are not made by Huffy.
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Old 09-16-06, 10:47 PM   #45
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Thanks JCM, she is pretty fast even with an all up weight of over 260lbs.

I like the look of that saddle!

I actually tend to ride with my ring and little finger over the bend of the bar ends (distal end) I find this gives me a little less of an upright position.
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Old 09-16-06, 11:22 PM   #46
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Brooks B17 and Specialized Avatar.
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Old 09-19-06, 08:17 AM   #47
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Koobi works for me .
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Old 09-19-06, 08:26 AM   #48
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Kobbi here too

Add my voice to the Kobbi! I have the Au Enduro and love it!
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Old 09-26-06, 01:54 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty
I might as well chime in, being 6'2" and weighing in at 238 lbs. I too ride a Brooks, and to my great pleasure it's the most comfortable saddle I have owned. It's a Swift btw.
That's a somewhat atypical outcome for a Clyde. When negative reviews for Brooks saddles do come about, they usually involve the Swift, which was really designed for racers in the 130-160 lb. weight range. The Swift certainly looks more comely, but the cut-away profile was designed for weight-weenie concerns, not comfort (the Swallow is worse yet). Most Clydes would benefit from the additional support of a full leather skirt as featured on the B-17. The titanium rail version provides a compromise between support and weight for those who have an extra c-note weighing their wallets down.
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Old 09-26-06, 03:35 PM   #50
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It's the width of the saddle that counts to me and the cushioned support that will suit you best. My saddle is 7 inches in width and the cushion is firm dense foam, it's the best saddle I ever found so far, a Viscount saddle that came on REI mtb bikes. Believe me I have gone through countless of saddles before I found the one I am using now. Finding the right type of saddle is a personal endeavor that you must approach with constant trial and error until you find the one that make sense to you at all cost. You can't ride when you're suffering every time you get on the bike. The thing I've learned is that the position, the posture you are riding mostly in on the given bike you are riding will determine the type of saddle you will need.
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