cooleric1234

I'm looking at getting a mountain bike, for actual trail riding. I'm 6'5" and 190 lbs. I'm looking at something entry level, perhaps the Bikes Direct (Dawes Haymaker 1200). I don't want this to be about bikesdirect, I'm also somewhat considering a Specialized Hardrock.

But the issue is that it seems that most of these bikes come with the stock spring, which is only good up to 170 lbs (for the RockShox Dart 1). For my weight I'd need to buy a new spring, and have it installed. It's listed at $30, but seems to be only available to dealers. I have a few questions:

1. Do I really need a new spring for my weight? I imagine so, but the Hardrock seems to be popular here and I haven't heard mention of it. Of course, many people here have it for street riding.
2. Can I order it myself?
3. Can I install it myself? I've done some bike repair, bottom bracket install, cables and housings, overhaul hubs, etc.
4. How much would a shop charge to do that if I couldn't do it myself?
5. If I were to buy a Hardrock or other bike from an actual store, would they give me a discount on exchanging the springs?

The other issue is that all entry level forks get absolutely atrocious reviews online. I'll probably be upgrading after another year or so, assuming I have the same crappy experience everyone else seems to be having.

Wogster

I would suspect if your buying a bicycle new from a dealer, that they will install the spring for you, some will charge you for the part, some will simply take your spring, and put in the different one, for the difference in the cost of the part, as they can sell your spring to someone else. The issue with doing it yourself is that, you might void the warranty on the bike and/or the shock, some shocks also need special tools, not familiar with that one.

Often reviews that pan a part like a suspension fork, are guys who buy a $500 bike, and expect it to perform like a bike with a $3,000 fork on it. While most shocks are fine for light to moderate trail riding, and a limited amount of technical stuff, there are limits. The key is to know what that limit is, and hopefully not break anything when you discover that you have actually surpassed it.

c_m_shooter

I wouldn't worry about it. If you put the stiffer spring in the fork, there won't be enough damping for the stiffer spring and it will bounce around more. Just learn how to ride to your equipments limits. That level of fork is going to make the ride easier on the wrists, but don't expect it to corner like its on rails on a fast chattery corner. If you are bottoming it out a lot on XC trails, it is probably your riding form, not any fault of the bike.If you do decide to upgrade, get one good enough to transfer to your next bike, because a good fork will be worth more than your Hardrock.

cooleric1234

That's good to hear, I certainly hope you're right. After posting this I just read through my Bike Mechanic's book and it mentions all the terrible stuff that will happen if you don't have the right spring for your weight. Mostly that the spring will crack eventually (sooner rather than later). Is that just plain not true?

c_m_shooter

It might or it might not, but under normal use it should be fine. Most last a long time, if your not doing a lot of big jumps and drops to flat. I have only broke one fork and it was because I overshot the landing ramp on a dirt jump. It was on a ten year old Rockhopper, not a dirt jumping bike and everything was still stock. I had bought it new in 1996. I don't hit jumps anymore, that incident kind of scared me and all my bikes are rigid now. I was shopping for a fork for my Monocog after my last race, I'm just having trouble justifying a $650 fork for a $500 bike.

Askel

1. Maybe. It really depends on your skills, experience, and type of terrain you're riding. I went through this with my Kona Hoss last month. A fork that had served me fine for a year, suddenly started to feel way too soft for me. It was taking the bumps just fine, but I was just getting killed on the climbs as it would always be swinging through the entire travel as I mashed up hills.
2. If you can't order it direct on line, a good bike shop should be able to help you out.
3. You may need a special tool or two for part of the job. A good bike shop might be able to loan you one, or you can improvise.
4. My shop would probably charge me maybe $10, but this will be highly variable.
5. Probably not, it's not like stems- there isn't much of a market for stock low-end fork springs.


Like I said, I went through this earlier this summer. There's very little useful information for a Clyde on a budget. Somebody on here did recommend a Rock Shox Tora. My bike shop found me a great deal on a Tora 318 U-Turn- $205, installed.

It seems to be well sprung for my 205lb frame, maybe a tad soft but nothing the lockout can't fix. It rides about a zillion times better than anything in the Dart class of forks. Plus the ability to crank the travel up to 135mm is just way fun on some of the more technical trails around here.

Good luck- I'd ride the stock fork for a bit and see how it suits you. At the very least, it'll give you a better appreciation for even a minor upgrade.

cooleric1234

I'm totally new to mountain biking, so my skills are virtually null. I'm not sure about the terrain, I know some of my friends that ride together are fairly new to the sport and some are very experienced. I'll start out with the easier rides.

That's a good idea. In fact, I'm considering just skipping the new spring and getting a good fork after a while, assuming I'm using it quite a bit.

lunchbox1972

I've got the original spring in my 01 Rockhopper.. Hasn't broken yet and it doesn't bottom out.

At my heaviest I was over 260 and I used to catch some air on it.. It's not a Dart, it's a Judy and I'm pretty sure the guy I got it from had it rebuilt just before I got it, but I don't know if they replaced anything other than the oil, if it has any oil in it.... I've never checked.

I don't think you have to worry much about your weight and the bike.

dirtbikedude

If you will be riding paths and fireroads or smooth single track you should not have a problem with the stock spring.

If you will be riding rocky, rutted with roots, drops and jumps or any combination of those features then you will want the heavier spring and change the oil out to a heavier weight so the dampening works better.

On a side note ... at 6'5, 190lbs you do not qualify as a Clyde, perhaps an undernourished Warmblood would be more like it.

cooleric1234

I knew someone would comment on this eventually I was specifically informed by the moderator that a Clydesdale is anyone over 200 lbs. OR over 6 feet tall. Also, I started out on this forum around 230 lbs, so I'm at least a Clyde Emeritus

heckler

i love my 100mm 302 tora (half spring half air). pretty cheap (and heavy), and the beginning of "good" forks IMO. def an upgrade you will feel on real trails. The lock out is nice too.

It is head and shoulders above my Fiancé's dart 2 which the preload does very little for me (around 225, she is 110 so it is fine for her)

i doubt you will actually "break" the dart...but your ride will be better with an upgrade.

heckler

can you swing this one? more expensive If you added a $200 fork to the $360 1200 dawes the remaining price is more than made up in the component upgrades