What seat for the Clyde
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What seat for the Clyde
Can you guys suggest a good seat? I have an 06 Trek Pilot 2.1 and am having trouble getting the seat right. I either slide forward or I have pressure (lots of pressure) on my perinium (sp). I'm thinking I might need a wider seat as my sit bones don't seem to find much room on my current seat. Thanks!
#2
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Terry Fly worked well for me. Has a cut-out to keep the perenium happy. But I'm a smaller clyde, starting at 230 and am down to 195 now. Still may be worth a try.
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I'm pretty sure your saddle is identical to mine, and I have the same problem. Absolutely no love for that little hatchet, either sliding off or in uncomfort sucks.
My other bike has a Specialized Rival on it that I love, so I'm going to try out the Specialized Milano. Heard good things on this forum about it, so why not right?
My other bike has a Specialized Rival on it that I love, so I'm going to try out the Specialized Milano. Heard good things on this forum about it, so why not right?
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one word: Brooks!
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Originally Posted by Tom Stormcrowe
one word: Brooks!
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+1 on the B-17 from a guy who is 6'1" and 250.
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I tried a Brooks Swift I put about 200 miles on it. I just could not take it anymore. It did seem to break in a bit as there were little dimples where my sit bones where. But after that my butt hurts every time I see a brooks. Now using a Sella Marco Rolls.
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Brooks B67 for me, it's their mid-size saddle with springs
Also, the seat tilt is very important. I was getting some taint-ache until I tilted the seat slightly forward. Minor adjustments once you get the saddle is crucial.
Also, the seat tilt is very important. I was getting some taint-ache until I tilted the seat slightly forward. Minor adjustments once you get the saddle is crucial.
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If you're sliding forward the seat angle is almost guaranteed to be in need of adjustment.
I'm not sure about the 2.1, but my 1.2's saddle isn't that great. being that its all I have and I don't feel like buying another saddle till I'm a bit lighter, its what I use because its not that terrible either once you get the adjustments right. keep that allen wrench with you and TWEAK TWEAK TWEAK. it can't be said enough that adjustments to the saddle are best made on the road (well, the side of the road) where you feel what's wrong and probably immediately feel what changes with the adjustments. Keep the adjustments small.
Sliding forward = seat angle too low.
crushed nuts = seat angle too high.
assymetric sensation = saddle nose not centered on bike
"heat" in perineum or hip socket pain = saddle too high.
knee issues often relate to the forward/backward positioning of the saddle and sometimes to the saddle being too low.
Low saddle also causes a pretty dramatic loss in speed/climbing power.
corrections to the above are welcome, I'm no pro but this is what I can remember/have experienced.
I'm not sure about the 2.1, but my 1.2's saddle isn't that great. being that its all I have and I don't feel like buying another saddle till I'm a bit lighter, its what I use because its not that terrible either once you get the adjustments right. keep that allen wrench with you and TWEAK TWEAK TWEAK. it can't be said enough that adjustments to the saddle are best made on the road (well, the side of the road) where you feel what's wrong and probably immediately feel what changes with the adjustments. Keep the adjustments small.
Sliding forward = seat angle too low.
crushed nuts = seat angle too high.
assymetric sensation = saddle nose not centered on bike
"heat" in perineum or hip socket pain = saddle too high.
knee issues often relate to the forward/backward positioning of the saddle and sometimes to the saddle being too low.
Low saddle also causes a pretty dramatic loss in speed/climbing power.
corrections to the above are welcome, I'm no pro but this is what I can remember/have experienced.
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Specialized has a series of body geometry saddles that comes in different widths. If you go to a Specialized dealer they will be able to "fit" you for one. An instrument they call the A$$-o-Meter (I couldn't make this up) will measure your sit bones. You'll have to ask them about it as I am sure it not one of their more glamorous duties. That being said....I tried 3 different saddles, stock Felt, Terry liberator, and some other torture device before the Specialized Alias. It is by far the most comfortable saddle I have used with absolutely no "break-in" period. It costs a little more but my can is worth the extra change.
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+1 on the brooks. I've loved my brooks B17 champion flyer. It does what it supposed to do... not make me think about my butt when I ride. I've been on it about 700 miles in the last two months. I guess it's broken in? Like I said, I never think about how my butt feels during or after the ride. That is the sign of good bicycle gear... you don't worry about it.
I know that I paid $100+ for my Brooks... but surely was worth it... and then I found one online for $50.. I bought me a spare for when this one wears out in 25 years.
I know that I paid $100+ for my Brooks... but surely was worth it... and then I found one online for $50.. I bought me a spare for when this one wears out in 25 years.
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Originally Posted by Luke1511
Specialized has a series of body geometry saddles that comes in different widths. If you go to a Specialized dealer they will be able to "fit" you for one. An instrument they call the A$$-o-Meter (I couldn't make this up) will measure your sit bones. You'll have to ask them about it as I am sure it not one of their more glamorous duties. That being said....I tried 3 different saddles, stock Felt, Terry liberator, and some other torture device before the Specialized Alias. It is by far the most comfortable saddle I have used with absolutely no "break-in" period. It costs a little more but my can is worth the extra change.
The Toupe is definitely (much) harder than the old liberator, but I like that a sit up higher. Much less of a crush factor. Of course, I only got out for 8 miles. We'll see how the 110 miles goes on Saturday. Might be doing the last 40 miles standing
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