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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 07-25-07, 03:31 AM   #1
Neil_B
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Float for Clydes, Crooked and Otherwise



This is me at 320 pounds, May 2006. Look at the right leg, if you dare. I can't clip in for any length of time on the right without knee pain. And since my right heel strikes the bike if I pedal properly, I often wind up pedaling with my arch or heel on the right. I know there's a product, Knee Savers, that will extend the crankarm so I don't have heel strike, but is there a clipless system that will allow me a considerable amount of float? I currently use spd multi-release pedals and cleats. An alternative might be to angle the cleat on the right side, but I don't see how to do it without boring more holes on the bottom of my shoe. Anyone have experience making such alterations?

Oh, and the right knock has moderated a little since there's 80 pounds less on it and the muscles are stronger. Still, with a leg like that if I were a horse I would have been put down long ago.
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Old 07-25-07, 04:43 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Historian View Post
This is me at 320 pounds, May 2006. Look at the right leg, if you dare. I can't clip in for any length of time on the right without knee pain. And since my right heel strikes the bike if I pedal properly, I often wind up pedaling with my arch or heel on the right. I know there's a product, Knee Savers, that will extend the crankarm so I don't have heel strike, but is there a clipless system that will allow me a considerable amount of float? I currently use spd multi-release pedals and cleats. An alternative might be to angle the cleat on the right side, but I don't see how to do it without boring more holes on the bottom of my shoe. Anyone have experience making such alterations?

Oh, and the right knock has moderated a little since there's 80 pounds less on it and the muscles are stronger. Still, with a leg like that if I were a horse I would have been put down long ago.

Congratulations on the weight loss since then, the crooked leg thing well that sucks but here are a few possible solutions. I've never used knee savers but as long as I keep any changes symmetrical my knees are relatively happy, i.e., if I had to use them I'd try both sides first rather than just the most damaged side.

I'm only going to suggest double sided mountain type pedals as that's what I prefer. Easier to get into and out of, walkable shoes, and so on. Yes, I am biased I use Time exclusively but my knees aren't as badly crocked (they is crocked though)

I'd recommend bebop, speedplay, crank bro.s in that order. I strongly recommend Time pedals over Crank Bro.s but they do have less float.

best free float pedals I know of

bebop pedals - 20 degrees
http://www.bebop.com/
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/pedal/index_B.shtml - consumer reviews



Speedplay - 20 degrees
http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?f...home.frogspecs
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/pedal/index_S.shtml - consumer reviews





The rest

Crank Bro.s - 20 degrees
http://www.crankbrothers.com/eggbeater_mxr.php
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/pedal/index_C.shtml





Personal preference

Time pedals - 10 degrees and 5mm lateral float
http://www.time-sport.com/us/home.htm
http://www.mtbr.com/reviews/pedal/index_T.shtml




hope that helps
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Old 07-25-07, 06:52 AM   #3
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I've read that Speed Plays are suppose to have the most float. But I've never used them, so I'm not sure how much. Maybe someone else has and can comment.
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Old 07-25-07, 07:42 AM   #4
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I just educated myself on speedplay pedals for a similar reason. What I've concluded:

I'd recommend the speedplay X5 pedal (~$115). It has unlimited float (that is UNsprung!). I believe you'll get 20 deg of float before popping out. The X1 and X2 are more expensive versions of the X5, but very similar. The more expensive versions basically use nicer materials (s/s or Ti spindles versus CrMo).
The Speedplay Zero pedal adds the ability to adjust the float and lock it down to your liking.

Speedplay also makes what they call the 'light action' pedal. This works very much the same as the X5, but requires very low force to engage the pedals to cleats. They recommend these for people less than 100 lbs.

They also make the 'frog' which someone described above. This is their MTB pedal. Equally nice, similar performance.

The complaints I've read about speedplay (most love them or hate them):
1. So much float can allow bad pedaling habits to form (although sometimes it's necessary to have that much float)

2. All of the mechanics (springs, clips, etc) are in the cleat, and the pedal is very simple and static. It has been said that you have to be careful where you step because you can clog the cleat up with dirt/sand and it won't clip in well.

I hope that helps!
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Old 07-25-07, 08:50 AM   #5
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I love my speedplays 20 degrees of float that have allowed me to start riding again. One important note is that it is difficult to walk with this cleat system. The cleat is very thick and prone to picking up all kinds of crud. For my ride around town cleats I use a mountain biking shoe with Crank Bros Candy C's

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Old 07-25-07, 09:11 AM   #6
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I have a similar leg problem....though not quite as severe it looks. I was just able to angle the cleat (SPD) on the show on the one side where my foot turns out to force it in a bit straighter. It's not perfect, but it helped a lot....less pain and more efficient pedaling.
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