I've bought myself a bike and I'm having fun
#26
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Congrats on the bike & keep riding.
I started out with a flat bar road bike too about 5 months ago. Have ridden it farther and faster than I thought I would by this point. I already want drops...
Some day
Congrats again!
I started out with a flat bar road bike too about 5 months ago. Have ridden it farther and faster than I thought I would by this point. I already want drops...
Some day
Congrats again!
#27
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Yes, Tech Pan is gone now, I'm sorry to say. It was never a favorite film of mine, but it had its uses. I have about four rolls left in 120 format and a couple of 35mm rolls in my freezer, but no 4x5 or 8x10.
I mostly shoot Efke PL100 that I rate at 50 typically, although I'll sometimes use Ilford HP5+ for greater speed. Bergger 200 and Kodak Tri-X are films I use sometimes as well. I shoot Fuji Astia 100 in 4x5 when I want color.
I like the idea of an LF cycling-themed gallery Tom. I have five LF cameras, two 8x10, two 4x5, and an 8x20, although only three are suitable for field use (one of each format). None of them are light in weight, though. Since I'm not a backpacker I've never worried too much about the weight and bulk of the gear. But now that I'm cycling, I plan to put together a lightweight 4x5 kit. This should be fun too!
I mostly shoot Efke PL100 that I rate at 50 typically, although I'll sometimes use Ilford HP5+ for greater speed. Bergger 200 and Kodak Tri-X are films I use sometimes as well. I shoot Fuji Astia 100 in 4x5 when I want color.
I like the idea of an LF cycling-themed gallery Tom. I have five LF cameras, two 8x10, two 4x5, and an 8x20, although only three are suitable for field use (one of each format). None of them are light in weight, though. Since I'm not a backpacker I've never worried too much about the weight and bulk of the gear. But now that I'm cycling, I plan to put together a lightweight 4x5 kit. This should be fun too!
#28
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I'll probably try bar ends as several people suggested when I grow dissatisfied with my flat-bar grip options.
#29
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I know what you are talking about. I just started getting into bike riding about a month ago, I'd been doing the elliptical every night but the weather is so nice right now I wanted to be outside. I splurged on a new folding bike, and carry it to work every day. If I don't ride at lunchtime (20-45 minutes), I stop off at a park on the way to pick up my son and ride. At work, I can only manage about 3-4 miles because it's all hills. At the park, the most I've done is seven miles (today), but I'm pretty proud of myself if I do 4 or 5 on most days. I plug along at a steady 10-12 mph (a guy on a hybrid flew by me today like I was standing still). On the hills at work, I'm barely moving as I crest some of them. But I'm riding every day and loving it. I just ride in my street clothes- I don't have much time for lunch so I rush out, get the bike out of the back of my car, and I'm gone. Really a high point in my day!! So keep at it, you are already ahead of me because I need a class in maintenance and tire changing.
vickie
vickie
#30
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Congratulations on your new bike, the 7.7 FX is a very nice bike. I started with an inexpensive x-mart Mongoose hybrid for the first 3 months. I just got a Trek 1000 road bike two days ago and am getting familiar with it. As far as cameras go, I take my Canon 20D with a 28-80 zoom in a backpack with me lots of times. You can get some nice shots that you just don't see when driving around in a car.
Good luck with your new bike, you're going to love it. In no time at all, you will be racking up the miles with smiles.
Good luck with your new bike, you're going to love it. In no time at all, you will be racking up the miles with smiles.
#31
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Welcome to the forum, okra! I understand fully what you mean. I'm almost 55 years old, and 260 or so pounds, and Type-2 diabetic. I started riding in April or May on an old 10-speed steelie road bike, and picked up a Trek 820 mountain bike for free through an airline frequent flyer program.
When I started, I mapped out a four mile loop around my neighborhood, but because of where I live it included some hills. At first I couldn't make it all the way around without having to stop and rest, and had to push the bike up some of the hills. After a couple of weeks I was going all the way around without stopping, climbing in higher gears, and buying cycling clothes! Now I have a slightly-under-15 mile route I ride which include some very long and steep hills, and I'm looking for ways to increase my distance even further.
In June I decided I really didn't like my mountain bike for the use to which I was putting it, so I started looking for a new road bike. I ended up with a Surly Long Haul Trucker because it's steel, has a traditional-geometry frame (compact geometry frames leave too much exposed seatpost for my liking), made to haul heavy loads, and mountain bike gearing. Here's a pic:
I originally ordered a "complete" but Surly was sold out. My LBS then ordered a frame/fork and built it themselves. Worked out good for me, as they knew I was only going to use it as a road bike, no touring, so they set it up with 700 x 28 tires. I was a little apprehensive of the bar-end shifters, but I knew I didn't want brifters (too fiddly, always out of adjustment), so I went with 'em. Turns out that the bar-end shifters are great! I absolutely LOVE this bike.
I've kept the mountain bike, and am actually converting it to a "winter" bike. So far I've added lights and fenders. The headlight is a Cateye EL300 - seems pretty bright, but I haven't ridden at night with it yet. If it's not bright enough I'll probably rig a maglight C or D cell flashlight some way and try that.
When I started, I mapped out a four mile loop around my neighborhood, but because of where I live it included some hills. At first I couldn't make it all the way around without having to stop and rest, and had to push the bike up some of the hills. After a couple of weeks I was going all the way around without stopping, climbing in higher gears, and buying cycling clothes! Now I have a slightly-under-15 mile route I ride which include some very long and steep hills, and I'm looking for ways to increase my distance even further.
In June I decided I really didn't like my mountain bike for the use to which I was putting it, so I started looking for a new road bike. I ended up with a Surly Long Haul Trucker because it's steel, has a traditional-geometry frame (compact geometry frames leave too much exposed seatpost for my liking), made to haul heavy loads, and mountain bike gearing. Here's a pic:
I originally ordered a "complete" but Surly was sold out. My LBS then ordered a frame/fork and built it themselves. Worked out good for me, as they knew I was only going to use it as a road bike, no touring, so they set it up with 700 x 28 tires. I was a little apprehensive of the bar-end shifters, but I knew I didn't want brifters (too fiddly, always out of adjustment), so I went with 'em. Turns out that the bar-end shifters are great! I absolutely LOVE this bike.
I've kept the mountain bike, and am actually converting it to a "winter" bike. So far I've added lights and fenders. The headlight is a Cateye EL300 - seems pretty bright, but I haven't ridden at night with it yet. If it's not bright enough I'll probably rig a maglight C or D cell flashlight some way and try that.
#32
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You mean my tech pan stock is now a diminishing resource? I only have three rolls left!
By the way, I typo'd in my earlier post, I meant to type ISO 1000, not 100. I love the huge enlargements you can get without grain breakdown with the film.
By the way, I typo'd in my earlier post, I meant to type ISO 1000, not 100. I love the huge enlargements you can get without grain breakdown with the film.
For your information, Kodak in it's race to become largely another bit player in the digital market, discontinued tech pan a couple of years ago, much to the dismay of it's many fans!
There are many other good B&W films around though, my favourite has always been Ilford's PanF it's rated 50ASA but I have pulled it to 25EV and pushed it to 100EV without any ill effects. BTW the proper term for altering film speed is EV for Exposure Valuation, as ASA and ISO are standards used to determine exposure valuation for a film, that meets certain standards. Often though, what the film manufacturer thinks is best, and what the photographer thinks is best are not the same. This extends to digital, my Rebel is permanently set to a 1/3 stop under exposed, as I like the look better.
As for photography and cycling, they go together like peanut butter and jam, ice cream and chocolate sauce, beer and pizza, you get the idea. Lower speed and the ability to go anywhere without needing to drag the car around, are advantages when shooting.
There are many other good B&W films around though, my favourite has always been Ilford's PanF it's rated 50ASA but I have pulled it to 25EV and pushed it to 100EV without any ill effects. BTW the proper term for altering film speed is EV for Exposure Valuation, as ASA and ISO are standards used to determine exposure valuation for a film, that meets certain standards. Often though, what the film manufacturer thinks is best, and what the photographer thinks is best are not the same. This extends to digital, my Rebel is permanently set to a 1/3 stop under exposed, as I like the look better.
As for photography and cycling, they go together like peanut butter and jam, ice cream and chocolate sauce, beer and pizza, you get the idea. Lower speed and the ability to go anywhere without needing to drag the car around, are advantages when shooting.
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. “He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Fredrick Nietzsche
"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." - Immanuel Kant
#33
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I you like B&W in general there is Ilford's traditional line, PanF (50ISO), FP4 (125ISO), and HP5 (400ISO), there is there T-Grain Delta line in 100 and 400ISO, and XP2 (400ISO) which uses C41 processing, same as colour film, works very well if you scan your film to digital. Low end labs like Wallyworld probably will screw up the colour balance on prints, giving them a toned appearance, because it doesn't have the orange mask.
Then there are the old school films, using formulas from years gone by, most of these come from Eastern Europe, examples are brands like Efke and Foma.
Then there are films like Bluefire Police, it's made in Canada, and requires a special developer, so it's strictly for home processing, and comes in 35mm only.
Other then the Ilford products, and I have used all of them at one time or another, I haven't used Efke, Foma or Bluefire, so I can't comment on how good they might be. I haven't shot anything on Kodak film since about 1978, except for the occasional roll of colour film. I tend to like textures and shadow details in photos, so I often shoot for shadow detail rather then colour, which then has colour getting in the way of what I actually want, so I then digitally remove the colour, as that usually works better for me. Well, I am off on a ride, debating about taking the Canon or not, I think I will
#34
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In June I decided I really didn't like my mountain bike for the use to which I was putting it, so I started looking for a new road bike. I ended up with a Surly Long Haul Trucker because it's steel, has a traditional-geometry frame (compact geometry frames leave too much exposed seatpost for my liking), made to haul heavy loads, and mountain bike gearing. Here's a pic:
I originally ordered a "complete" but Surly was sold out. My LBS then ordered a frame/fork and built it themselves. Worked out good for me, as they knew I was only going to use it as a road bike, no touring, so they set it up with 700 x 28 tires. I was a little apprehensive of the bar-end shifters, but I knew I didn't want brifters (too fiddly, always out of adjustment), so I went with 'em. Turns out that the bar-end shifters are great! I absolutely LOVE this bike.
I'm not so fond of the either of the colors currently offered by Surly for the LHT. I emailed them and learned that they don't plan to change the colors soon, so I'm guessing the 2008 will be offered in the same colors. Therefore, I'm considering buying the blue frame (or an unpainted one if it is possible) and having it custom powdercoated. Surly sells a decal set for all the logos and writing. Right now I'm thinking my LHT frame will be a bright lemony yellow or a more subdued but still lively metallic orange pearl. I'll probably go with the yellow, as it's my favorite color. I think either would be almost as fast as a red bike.
#36
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I love my Big Steal Blue Surly. I wish I would have gone with the drop bars, but I will remedy that in the future.
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#37
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Congrats on the bike and welcome to the club!
I'm still getting used to the clipless "feet belts". Last weekend, I straddled my bike on the sidewalk outside my home, brought my shoe down on the left pedal and heard that satisfying little "click", and was about to push off when a little old lady walking her dog suddenly appeared beside me. I must have been so intent on lining up my shoe and the pedal that I didn't notice her approach. "Excuse me," I said, halting in my tracks, then realizing that the bike was tilting over to the left and that foot was securely attached!
Fortunately, I was saved from looking like a complete drooling idiot by my front fence...
Enjoy yourself!
I'm still getting used to the clipless "feet belts". Last weekend, I straddled my bike on the sidewalk outside my home, brought my shoe down on the left pedal and heard that satisfying little "click", and was about to push off when a little old lady walking her dog suddenly appeared beside me. I must have been so intent on lining up my shoe and the pedal that I didn't notice her approach. "Excuse me," I said, halting in my tracks, then realizing that the bike was tilting over to the left and that foot was securely attached!
Fortunately, I was saved from looking like a complete drooling idiot by my front fence...
Enjoy yourself!