Help on rear wheel! CXP33 or open pro?
The best weight I've been at is 190lbs(and people at work ask me if I'm sick))..most of my best riding has been done between 198-204.
I usually ride ksyeriums.. and I have a cheap set of Gemini(performance). Wheels.
Last eason I was 215... now, I'm around 230 and want to get back into shape, but I keep breaking spokes on the gemini and ksyriums.
What I'm looking for is a strong wheel that will hold up, yet spin up fast enough to train when I'm back in shape and not put me at too much of a disadvantage with the lighter riders, especially on hills. Obviously a strong rim will have it's drawback to performance and when I get back to 200, I should be able to use the Ksyeriums... but as hard as I ride, I'm probably going to use this wheel most of the time.
I'm looking at CPX 33 or Open Pro rims with Ultregra hubs(I wanted duraace but I'm still 9 speed). 14/15 spokes.. i was going to to a tripple laced 32 spoke. I also am wondering if alloy nipples would hurt.. or if I should stick with brass?
I know you guys can relate.
I've heard that the CPX 33's are hard to come by. I could be wrong though. I'm having real good luck with Velocity Fusions (32 hole), stronger than the Aerohead and not as heavy as a Deep-V. Check it out.
On the big ring
I just had my rear wheel rebuilt with a CPX33 36 hole. I only have a little over 100 miles on it so far but I have been pleased with the stiff feel of wheel at first blush. MY LBS picked it over the Open Pro since it is slightly heavier. I'm a little heavier than you, and I too have been hell on rear wheels.
I ride around the same weight range ( 195-210 ) and after trying a few different wheel-sets I've had great performance and durability from the American Classic "Hurricane" model (Cyclocross specific but work great on the road!).
When I was looking at having some wheels built, I looked at the CXP33 and Velocity Deep V's. The LBS said either would have been good, but the CXP's were a little harder to get at that time in Nov 2007. He also told me the Open Pro's are good, but for a lighter rider, but he did not expand on what range light meant. I went with the Deep V's and have been very happy.
Brian | 2015 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 3 | 2014 Trek CrossRip Comp
Originally Posted by AEO
Wheels that break spokes, are often the fault of the builder, you see,most bike wheels are made by machines, these machines are currently unable to tension a spoke sufficiently, which means that they need to be tensioned by someone who knows how to determine adequate tension. The mechanic at your LBS should know how to do this, and should as a matter of course in building a bike make sure this gets done.
Originally Posted by Bike2Ride
This applies as to whether a wheel has 4 spokes or 100 spokes. The fewer the spokes, the more critical tension becomes, the heavier the rider, the more critical spoke tension becomes as well. At 230lbs a 32 or 36 spoke wheel, properly tensioned and trued by a professional wheel builder, will likely wear out the rim from braking before it breaks a spoke.
Now about nipples, an alloy nipple is about .1g lighter, but is more likely to suffer galvanic corrosion, and freeze to the spoke. With a 36 spoke wheel both ends, your saving at most 7.2g, and the price your paying for it, a harder to maintain wheel. Now here is the real thing, 7.2g heck going to the bathroom before a ride is likely to eliminate more then 7.2g.....
As for racing, the best riders make sure they have the most efficient engine possible, that means you need to take on the concept of food is just fuel, and you want only the best fuels possible. A rider with higher strength and endurance will beat a rider with less strength and endurance. Larger riders have to fight more gravity on accents, but gain more benefit on descents.
Best hill training is hill training, go find a hill that you can get about half way up before you need to bail, ride up that hill twice a day until you can get to the top, now move up 1 gear, and repeat, keep doing this until you can power up that hill, without any thoughts, now go find a higher and steeper hill and repeat, keep doing this until you can power up most hills without a thought. Now you have eliminated the biggest advantage of the lighter weight rider.
speedgoat has the cxp33 in 36 hole..
they have a great selection of rims, they also price match..
I've been on the same Open Pros 32h 3 cross for seven years now. I weigh in at approx 230, been going back and forth from 205 - 240. I'd estimate 7000+ mi total with no broken spokes. My CXP33 lasted a year and a half before it developed a hop. Take into account 'though that the Open Pros are hand built and the CXP33 were machine built online specials.
I'm about ready to pull the trigger on a set of DT Swiss RR 1.1's with either Ultegra of DA hubs. Colorado Cyclists has a really good deal on them and they're hand built & tensioned. I spoke with someone about the wheels for my weight. He thought a properly built and tensioned wheel from either the CXP 33 or the DT Swiss wheels would hold up fine. 32 hole front and rear, 3 cross, brass nipples and Dura Ace hubs out the door for around $400. I've read that the DT Swiss rims come almost perfectly round which allows the tensioning to be more uniform, which makes for a stronger (and easier built) wheel.
I am currently riding a set of RR 1.1's.. Here is the skinny.. I have almost all wheels that clydes use.. A few pair of Open Pros, CXP 33's and Velocity Deep V..
I would say overall the DT swiss have as much lateral stiffness as the Deep V's and CXP 33's.
The huge plus is the DT Swiss rims weigh basically the same as the Open Pros. I had my dt swiss built up on Chris King Front Hub and American Classic High Flange rear hub. These wheels just glide down the road and definitely bullet proof.
Creamy pack filling
I have a set of CXP 33's built by Colorado Cyclists with 9 speed ultegra hubs, 32h, 15g spokes laced 3 cross. There wheels are 100% hand built. I weigh between 190-195 and ride some pretty rough roads. The wheels have around 4k on them (one years worth of riding) and I have not had one problem.
The engine is important, but when you're riding fast rides with guys that commonly have 50-60lbs less than me, I need every advantage I can get going up the hills.. and when they start to hammer. Especially when they have lighter wheels.
Still, I do a very good job considering. It's always comical that I have to break going downhill with these guys, and they are often pedeling to boot.
Anyway... the reason I I asked about the allow is that it's outer rim rotational weight and these rims are already heavy. While I mostly agree with the bike weight being a non issue with my weight, or peeing before the ride(I make the same jokes with some components). Rotational weight is GOLD, especially when it comes to the Rim/Times, etc. A few grams on the outside of the wheel and there is a big increase in spin up. Hills aren't that big of deal, I'll ride the Ksyriums in the mountains, but for the rollers we have? It IS more of the machine.
There was a guy who was competing in a local crit. The guy had a $500 frame and people were kind of laughting about it.... before the race that is. This guy won the race going away, it wasn't close.
Then the talk was "wow!" cheap frame, but the machine was increadable!
I'm also reminded of a time trial a couple years back. 1 hour, 2 minutes. I had just passed the two guys in front of me. I was running 18mm tires on tri-spokes that were loaned to me! I thought for a while I would top 1 hour... then comes this huy, probably in his 50's with a bike with standard spoked hand built wheel.. passed ME! This guy didin't have the equipment and at least 15 years on me.
BTW, i got the CXP-33.. over the Open Pro.