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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 02-13-08, 05:14 PM   #26
cyccommute 
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Originally Posted by HiYoSilver View Post
Thanks but just to double check. My question is not with shifting but with cadence. Specificially on shifts on cassette
from 13t to 11t [ring 1 to ring 2]
from 20t to 17t [ring 5 to ring 4]
from 30t to 26t [ring 7 to ring 6]

These are 18.2%, 17.6%, and 15.4% changes in gearing. So my question is under load, can you change gears without losing much cadence, i.e. change under 10 revolutions.

thanks
I don't measure cadence but some things to think about:

The jump from 13 to 11 is usually made at high speed anyway so you'll probably not notice it too much. If you use Sheldon's calculator and calculate the speed at 90 rpm, the change is from 29 to 34 mph. But when I'm doing that shift, I'm probably increasing my cadence anyway to pick up speed on a downhill and I don't notice it.

For your gearing, I'd make the shift from large ring to middle on the crank before I'd do the 20 to 17 anyway. The change is about the same going from 53/17 to 42/17 as going from 53/17 to 53/20. This is a lot closer than any of the other combinations and makes a good place to switch front rings. However even in the 53 chainring, the difference in speed is is from 19mph to 22mph. I'm not sure you'd notice that much difference. Going down in gear would probably be much more noticeable than going up.

On the 26 to 30 jump, you should be in the middle ring anyway and you'll be going from 10 to 11 mph. Hardly noticeable at all and, usually, you're climbing something and needing to drop to that gear just to keep going up the road. By this time I've usually forgotten about cadence and am more worried about where the top of the damned mountain is anyway
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Old 02-13-08, 11:17 PM   #27
HiYoSilver
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again, thanks all. was going to ride tomorrow, but think will pass if this snow ever gets here
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Old 02-14-08, 11:41 PM   #28
BigBlueToe
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Originally Posted by tpelle View Post
My Surly LHT is set up with:
48-32-26 in the front
11-13-15-17-20-23-26-30-34 in the rear

I figure that gives me about 21 gear-inches.
I have almost the same setup - LHT, 11-34, 26-36-46. With the 34 in back and the 36 in front (and no load) I can go up almost any hill without using the granny. That said, I'm putting a 24 on the front before I take it on tour this summer. I climbed a couple of gnarly mountain passes last summer with my old bike. I had a 24 on the front, but not a very big sprocket in back. I was constantly searching for a lower gear that wasn't there. I don't want to have the problem this summer. (I wonder if I should skip the 24 and go for a 22?)
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Old 02-15-08, 09:26 PM   #29
jitenshakun
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I run a double and have some monster climbs on every ride (I live on the doorstep of the Canadian Rockies). Basically, I've learnt to keep a steady and slow cadence in a decent gear. I'm never at the head of the pack at the bottom but I'm usually at the head or well out in front by the top.

I have a similar philosophy on the trail but middle ringing climbs has lead to a pile of bent cassettes.

-J
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