Starting weight & Starting Bike
Thanks for all your replies on my other topic “Fat Man Needs Help”. :beer:
It’s really humbling to know that there are so many of us proper sized guys and gals out there taking to two wheels without shame!
I’ve now taken some time and I’ve had a look through all the old posts and there’s some real gold dust out there, all of which I’m taking on board (and for which I thank you!). However there doesn’t seem to be a definitive guide on specific makes and models – no doubt because everyone’s got their own opinions and different uses for their steel-framed friend.
So how about I humbly ask all you guys to reply to this post and just put:
A) Your starting weight, and
B) Your starting bike
It’d probably be helpful if you also mention any upgrades you made to make it fit for purposes, but that then give me (and anyone else who wants it) a pretty good idea of which makes and models to steer towards.
And if I’ve missed a similar post elsewhere then just shoot me in the head and post a link! :crash:
I really don't think the brand is a big deal, I ride Jamis bikes, because that was the only LBS that treated me decent. I thought I wanted a TREK, but was treated like crap, so I kept going to different places. Understand that I have to drive an hour to get to the city where they actually have bike shops, so mine is not really an LBS. I found someone who would talk to me about bikes and understand that I was getting back to riding after a 20+ year lifestyle away from it.
If you are serious about making the change and riding seriously, I would check the LBS's in you area and tell them what you want to do and see what they will do for you.
Post where you live, and others in the area might be able to head you towards a bike store that they have had good luck with.
I don't remember my weight when I started back to biking, but I wanted a road bike and not a hybrid or comfort bike. Now, I own a comfort bike, to ride with my wife when I just want to take it easy or ride the trails with another couple. Not for great exercise, but to ride slowly and enjoy life.
Second ride down, riding my old Peugeot. I'm weighing in around 245. No real mods, it's just what I have.
Weight (mine, not the bike), 280 pounds.
Alterations made during the time it was my primary bike:
- lowered handlebars
- replaced suspension seatpost with straight seatpost
- replaced saddle
- added Kneesaver crankarm extenders
- added rear rack
- added, then removed clipless pedals
- replaced spring in fork with stronger one (the front suspension was eating up the energy in my pedal stroke)
It was my first bike, but it was a poor choice considering the sort of cyclist I became. I still can't believe I rode two metric centuries on it.
Getting back into it after 15 year layoiff.
B) Specialized Tarmac Expert Ultegra (stock)
A) 6/2006: 375 now: 300
B) Trek 7300 hybrid \ also ride Cannondale CAAD9
Starting weight: 236lbs
Starting Ride: 2007 Raleigh Mojave 2.0
Upgrades: Front fork from Suntour S2000 to 2007 Rock Shox Dart 3 w/lock out
Generic Nylon Pedals to Nashbar alloy pedals with teeth.
Reasons for upgrades: The front fork that came on my bicycle would constantly bottom out and bob when riding uphill. Its ability to absorb bumps was nill as it was sprung far too light. A 120lber would be able to bottom this fork out. I upgraded the pedals to a more aggressive alloy set because my feet would slip off the nylon platforms, especially when they got wet. It was the best 6 dollars I ever spent for wet weather confidence.
Other goodies: Trek seat bag
Front and rear lights
Kendra Kross Plus commuter tires
frame and floor pump
water bottle and cage
These extra goodies are really necessities should you find yourself traveling further from home than you would like to walk. It happened to me once when I got hasty and forgot to put my seat bag back on when my bike came back from the shop, I was 11 miles from home when I had a blow out. 95 degrees out + no cell phone + no wallet + no patch kit = one long walk home.
Did you have to do anything to the Trek or did it do the job straight off the shelf?
I ask because I've checked out my local suppliers online and that model is reatailing at only £350 / $700... and that is peanuts compared to some of the others I've looked at (£1,500 / $3,000 for a Giant?!!)
Started weight 355lbs
Started riding a Trek Navigator which was stock
Currently weight 218lbs
Currently riding a Trek Pilot which is stock besides saddle.
Starting Weight: 6'4" - 287 - March '07 (Taking Atenolol and Altace)
Starting Bike: Specialized Roubaix
Feb. 6, 08 : 6'4" - 205 (As of yesterday NO blood pressure pills)
Current Bike: Orbea Opal
I just started and have yet to hit full speed.
1) Orbea Onix
2) Bridgestone 500 (mainly for indoor training)
3) Puegot MTB
After gaining about 60 or perhaps 80lbs over 3 years when I moved to Texas from Connecticut and got back to driving. May 07' my wife got herself a bike so I got myself a steel fuju touring bike last may which was quickly upgrade to an xtracycle for shopping purposes. Used 700x32 Marathon Plus tires on hand built 36 spoke wheels with a touring rim. I've had the rear wheel trued about 3x in 4k miles but I beat the crap out of them weight and road wise.
Currently I'm still trying to get back under 260, I've been stuck at 26# for a couple months. Got an old ti merlin road bike in the last week of December 07' for my birthday. Came with a pair of old 32 spoke CPX30 wheels similar to deep V's which haven't wavered at all even after the front one got sucked into a expansion joint so no need to upgrade those.
Approaching 1k on it and the only problem I've had was with the bottom bracket. I think my LBS fixed it up right this time with a little superglue to stop the bearings from sliding loose.
I did change both saddles though. Terri Liberator on the Fuji and a Specialized Alias on the Merlin.
Starter weight 458 pounds
First starter bike, an old Schwinn, 26" cruiser tired 10 speed and it was too small for me.
I got a Royce Union mountain bike to replace it, and it lasted me about a year, and is still going because I passed it on as a gift to a local Athena that wanted to take up riding but couldn't afford a bike. It's getting good use too. ;)
Bikes I've owned, and weights I was:
205 to 250 pounds: 1991 Trek 2100 (carbon tubes on aluminum fork/stays/lugs)
- Profile clip-on aerobar
- speed shifters on aeros
- Aerospoke wheels
- behind the seat bottle cages
- raced tri's on it at 205, rode distance on it up to 250
205 to 265 back to 235 pounds: 1991 Stumpjumper Team (rigid frame/fork)
- M545 SPD pedals
- Profile bar-ends
- Salsa stem
- Thompson post
- Brooks B-17
- buncha tires and rims and rings and cassettes and chains
235 pounds (current): 2008 Surly Cross-Check Complete
- Generic stem (to pro-fitting measurements)
- Brooks B-17 (cannibalized from the Stumpie)
- M545 SPD pedals (also from Stumpie)
- currently logging 400 miles/month on it with stock gearing. Swapping 36t for 34t ring, and 11-25t for 11-27t cassette.
Starting weight: 275 (125kg) currently 245
Starting bike: Giant Bouldershock (approx 2000), no mods. I put road tyres on it after a few months, the knobblies sapped my energy on the road.
This year I bought a ridgeback velocity (uk bike), it's a hybrid and I'm pleased with it, it's a breeze to ride compared to my mountainbike, it's faster with the same amount of effort.
I've had to replace a couple of spokes over the year (and 1400 miles), but I bounce over speedbumps/potholes with full panniers on my commute, so I guess it's to be expected
I added mud guards, panniers and touring bars.
A couple of things to note as I see you're in the UK.
1) If you're going to commute ("Fat Man needs help" post suggest you may), see if you can get the bike through your employer (bike2work scheme). They basically buy the bike for you and then lease it to you for a year. At the end of the year you can buy it from them for a nominal value. Why this is good: - you don't pay VAT, you company can claim it back. - the lease and final payment come from your pre-tax earnings. So if you're a 40% tax payer you can save about 50% on the price of a bike. Oh, you can also get bike related stuff on the scheme too, locks, panniers, lights, clothing etc.
2) If you're looking for some motivation there are a couple of nice south coast rides.
- Round the Harbours (early June) is a 32 mile ride around Portsmouth with a couple of short ferry rides. It's organised by the BHF and is a fun ride, PM me if you want some company I'll be doing it this year.
- CycleIsland.co.uk is a 100km ride around the Isle of Wight in early May (also one in September I think). This is a bit more of a challenge and the Isle of wight isn't flat, but it's a great day and it proved great motivation for me to get on my bike last year and train.
All the best,
18 stone 5, now just over 16 and a half
Started on this
Ribble 7005 Winter Training/Audax Sora 8 Triple
- Horizontal top tube geometry
- Shimano Sora 8spd Triple groupset
- Terry Dolan ‘The master craftsman’ Frame design
- Individually hand built wheels. Sora 8 on Mavic Open Sport with stainless steel double butted spokes
- Alpina Carbon Forks with Integral Hidden Headset
- Deda Big Piega Oversize bars
- Deda Quattro 4 bolt oversize stem
- Selle Italia XO Transam Saddle
- CSN Alloy Seatpillar
- Continental UltraSport Kevlar 700x23 black Tyres
- Zefal Competition chromoplastic mudguards included in price.
Before ordering please use our 'Frame Size Help' within the 'bikebuilder' section of our site to ensure you order the correct size.
Price inc. VAT: £385.00
Price exc. VAT: £327.66
I did have a Galaxy and I got reid of the Mountain Bike, rubbish for on road stuff
First bike: Trek 7300, perfect combination for speed, comfort, roll resistance, and wallet for a bigger guy just starting out. Added better gel saddle, trekking bars, Aerospoke rear wheel (no more broken spokes!!!!). Started at 500mi/year and 252 lbs., now at 1700mi/year, 219 lbs (and 49 yrs. old). Bike has 4000+ miles, I'm ready for an upgrade (looking at some steel-framed touring/road bikes).
Starting weight: 260-265
Starting Bike: Felt F1X cross bike
Mods: Road tires
needs:better brake pads
problems: brakes suck as configured, for a bigger person
likes: wheels seem pretty bombproof even after several curb-checks and nasty potholes, good component set for the price
Started @223 Lbs, with a 83 Nishiki Sport 12 speed.
500 miles this year, now 219 lbs.
At 280 I've ridden:
Lower-end bike shop mountain bike
Downtube Folding bike (no suspension)
Russian Folding bike from the 60's (smallest and heaviest bike in the stable).
Biggest mods were raising the handlebars on all of them to alleviate wrist pain. The Nishiki (road bike) needs stronger wheels than what was on there.
If you haven't read the first few paragraphs from the link in my sig - any frame will hold you, it's the wheels you'll have to pay most attention to.
If you have little flexibility you may be more comfortable on a mountain bike/touring/cyclocross bike to start off with to have a bit more upright riding position. Stay away from racing frames as they tend to have geometry geared towards the most power but not necessarily comfort. In my sig there's a few good threads on the differences between bikes with pros and cons.
starting bike cannondale caad1 mountain bike @ 295 lbs
2 sets of rims. one set for on and 2nd for off road
i originally got this as a present 10 yrs ago for my 15th birthday but started riding road serioous last summer.
then: 07 fuji professional 2.0 full carbon. bought that when i was still 280
only change, terry fly ti seat for my big *****
now: still the 07 fuji and now a 03 NORCO vps shore for off road.
my cannondale is now my commuter bike. currently 255 lbs
the cannondale now has a road crank.
Then: 225ish, Trek 2300
Now: 203ish, Blue RC4 Al
Starting weight, 275-280 ish.
Starting bike, '75 Schwinn Continential.
Starting weight, 215lbs
bike 2007 Giant FCR1
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