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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 03-05-08, 01:49 PM   #1
Dr.PooLittle
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Looking for bombproof tire/wheel combo

I'm having some 36-spoke Deep V's built up, and am considering what width tires to put on them. I'm 260, ride in the city, and I hate going out of true or getting flats, so I'm looking for pretty much maintenance free. Is it worthwhile to go to a wider tire (~29) or is this gonna slow me down on my 10-mile commute?
Thanks!
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Old 03-05-08, 02:13 PM   #2
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32mm

Conti Ultra Gatorskins
Schwalbe Marathon+
Panaracer Pasela Tourguard
Panaracer Ruffy Tuffy
Specialized Armadillos

All of the above are high puncture resistance belted tires.

Gran Bois Cypress (favourite of many randonneurs for durability and nice feel)
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Old 03-05-08, 02:27 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by CliftonGK1 View Post
32mm

Conti Ultra Gatorskins
Schwalbe Marathon+
Panaracer Pasela Tourguard
Panaracer Ruffy Tuffy
Specialized Armadillos

All of the above are high puncture resistance belted tires.

Gran Bois Cypress (favourite of many randonneurs for durability and nice feel)
+1 on those suggestions. I run deep v's with 25mm and 28mm gators. Very nice and very maintenance free.
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Old 03-05-08, 02:43 PM   #4
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...Specialized Armadillos...
+1
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Old 03-05-08, 02:59 PM   #5
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I've had success with the Michelin Krylion Carbons if you wanna roll a little faster. I'm running the armadillos right now.
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Old 03-05-08, 04:48 PM   #6
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28 or 32 Gatorskins
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Old 03-05-08, 06:16 PM   #7
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I've had success with the Michelin Krylion Carbons if you wanna roll a little faster. I'm running the armadillos right now.
I have a set of Deep V's and the Krylions are a major, major, major, major PIA to get on and off these wheels. I love these tires, but trying to change a tube when I had one of my tires sliced just sucked and took me about 25 from the time I stopped to the getting going again. Typically I can replace a tube and get back on the road in less than 10 mins.

I put the stock tires that came with my CAAD9, Maxxis Fuse and they were easy to get on and off. I have about 250 miles on these tires now and they ride pretty nice. Good grip and roll pretty easy. Once these are done, I am going to try the Maxxis Columbiere’s

Did I mention the Krylions on the Deep V's were a major PIA???
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Old 03-05-08, 06:44 PM   #8
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Did I mention the Krylions on the Deep V's were a major PIA???
I agree, it takes some serious elbow grease to get those on and off with a tire lever, but I only had 3 flats in 4000 miles on my first set so it wasn't often that I had to work with them.
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Old 03-05-08, 09:39 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Dr.PooLittle View Post
I'm having some 36-spoke Deep V's built up, and am considering what width tires to put on them. I'm 260, ride in the city, and I hate going out of true or getting flats, so I'm looking for pretty much maintenance free. Is it worthwhile to go to a wider tire (~29) or is this gonna slow me down on my 10-mile commute?
Thanks!
Out of true: That's the wheel build more than anything else and you should be fine with those (you're light than I am).

Wider tires will pick up more road debris and slow you down. If you're riding in a lot of sand that may be a better option but if it's all on road go with the skinniest you can. I'm running 23mm right now - wow it's a treat going up hills!

Oh yeah - and Gatorskins rock.
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Old 03-05-08, 10:08 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Dr.PooLittle View Post
I'm having some 36-spoke Deep V's built up, and am considering what width tires to put on them. I'm 260, ride in the city, and I hate going out of true or getting flats, so I'm looking for pretty much maintenance free. Is it worthwhile to go to a wider tire (~29) or is this gonna slow me down on my 10-mile commute?
Thanks!
There are some rules about tires, a narrower tire has less rolling resistance, but needs a higher pressure to hold the same amount of weight, because of a smaller contact patch. The higher the pressure, the harder the tire, therefore the more road vibration that gets transmitted to the frame and rider. To prevent flats, don't run over stuff and/or use a tire that is more puncture resistant. A properly built and tensioned wheel, will take a long time to go out of true, some will wear the rims out from braking before needing truing.

It's not uncommon for touring bikes to run wider tires, some as wide as 40mm, because the lower pressure requirements make for a more comfortable ride. For a 10 mile commute, it probably doesn't make much difference, however some frames, particularly racing and racing like road frames are designed for narrow tires, and you can't fit a wide tire in there. You need to check your frame for width, to make sure there is enough room for a wider tire. If your frame is narrow, that limits your choices.
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Old 03-05-08, 11:06 PM   #11
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Gatorskins rock. I ran 700x25's all last season on my Giant, completely trouble free. Just picked up a second pair for my new Bianchi. As long as Conti keeps making them, I'll keep buying them.

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Old 03-06-08, 02:07 AM   #12
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I've got deep vs running 28 conti contacts on my fixed, they're cheap @ $20-22, they've got small treads but on the crappy roads here I can't even notice. I do a 20 mile r/t four days a week and like 30-50 on weekends.
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Old 03-06-08, 10:52 AM   #13
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I was about to start this same thread here. My 32 spoke sun m13s bang out of true on the regular, with 28s. I do have a lot of brick streets to contend with, and my 220-ish plus a bag full of crap pushed the weight higher. I've heard that Deep-Vs are overkill, but that doesn't take say 240 lbs into account, does it?
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Old 03-06-08, 10:55 AM   #14
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Sun rims I've been told from the mech section are fairly soft. If you're riding on bricks I'd go with the Deep Vs - they should take a beating. They'll be about the same price as any other new handbuilt wheel so why not.
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Old 03-06-08, 03:49 PM   #15
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wider tire --> less rolling resistance

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wogsterca View Post
There are some rules about tires, a narrower tire has less rolling resistance, but needs a higher pressure to hold the same amount of weight, because of a smaller contact patch. .....
The point of a narrower tire having less rolling resistance has been proven wrong in several tests (just one of them in the German magazine "Tour"). The disadvantages of wider tires are solely the additional weight (the importance of this obviously varies with your cycling style since it is rotating mass) and the possibly the added wind resistance.
Wider tires allow to reduce the air-pressure (more comfort) and still having less rolling resistance than the super narrow ones. AFAIR, the contact patch sizes has no influence on the rolling resistance. The differences are likely caused by the additional deformation work induced in narrower tires using the same pressure.

Info on rolling resistance and more:
http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_in...ing_resistance

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Old 03-06-08, 04:05 PM   #16
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That and there's less of a target to run over glass.
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Old 03-06-08, 04:15 PM   #17
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I was about to start this same thread here. My 32 spoke sun m13s bang out of true on the regular, with 28s. I do have a lot of brick streets to contend with, and my 220-ish plus a bag full of crap pushed the weight higher. I've heard that Deep-Vs are overkill, but that doesn't take say 240 lbs into account, does it?
There's a bunch of different deep section rims to choose from, but the Velocity Deep V is one of the most popular. It's strong, it's reasonably light for it's design, and it comes in a zillion colours.
If the only choice you want is silver or black, then there's the Mavic Cxp22 and Cxp33.
If you want no choices, then there's the Alex DA-28 which I think only comes in black.

Part of the popularity with the Deep V is the drilling pattern, since it's available in everything from a 24 (or maybe a 20) hole, up to a 48 hole drill for touring tandems, and sizes from 20" to 700c. Most others are only the standard choice of 32h or 36h drilled.

That being said, I ride Alex DA-16 32h wheels. I weigh 235 pounds and don't carry a lot of stuff for my commute. I ride 20-30 miles a day on anything from rough debris strewn roads, to clean roads, to an MUP that has root-humps on it that resemble residential speed bumps. The DA-16 is a double-wall rim so it's a little heavier, but it's strong and sort of a mid-section profile. A well built wheel shouldn't go out of true very often, even on brick streets.
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Old 03-06-08, 04:32 PM   #18
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That being said, I ride Alex DA-16 32h wheels. I weigh 235 pounds and don't carry a lot of stuff for my commute. I ride 20-30 miles a day on anything from rough debris strewn roads, to clean roads, to an MUP that has root-humps on it that resemble residential speed bumps. The DA-16 is a double-wall rim so it's a little heavier, but it's strong and sort of a mid-section profile. A well built wheel shouldn't go out of true very often, even on brick streets.
+1

I've put 3500 miles on my Alex DA-16's with Conti Ultra Gators 700x25's and until last week never had an issue. I rode over several RR tracks on a 45 mile ride and finally broke a spoke on the rear wheel. Took it to the shop had the spoke replaced and retrued and it rides as good as the day I bought it. They are a very durable wheelset.
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Old 03-06-08, 04:36 PM   #19
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might check the recommend tire sizes for your rim before you go buy 32mm check the rim. I would hate to purchase a new combination that did not work optimally together.

looking at velcoity's website they have a 19mm external, so ~17internal? http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html thus 32 would seem to be smack in the middle of the range.


Eric

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Old 03-06-08, 06:29 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutz View Post
The point of a narrower tire having less rolling resistance has been proven wrong in several tests (just one of them in the German magazine "Tour"). The disadvantages of wider tires are solely the additional weight (the importance of this obviously varies with your cycling style since it is rotating mass) and the possibly the added wind resistance.
Wider tires allow to reduce the air-pressure (more comfort) and still having less rolling resistance than the super narrow ones. AFAIR, the contact patch sizes has no influence on the rolling resistance. The differences are likely caused by the additional deformation work induced in narrower tires using the same pressure.

Info on rolling resistance and more:
http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_in...ing_resistance
I expect the amount of wind resistance of a 35mm wide tire over a 23mm wide tire, is pretty small, when you have a 70cm (or wider) human sitting above those tires, and I don't expect that the 100g or so, means much when we are dealing with a total weight of over 100kg.


Okay, I hate when this happens, you repeat the old mantra, until someone tells you it's wrong, so you do the math, and find they are right (anyone got a smiley for D'oh!!). Here it goes for the rest of us.....

Say you have a 23mm wide tire, with a 1" x .5" contact patch, and a 200lb load (rider + bike + water + accessories), this means you have a 1/2 square inch contact patch (times 2) that means the gravitational force is 100PSI, now bicycles are not evenly weight distributed, it's more like 35/65 (F/R) so 130PSI is needed in the rear tire to overcome gravitational force, On the 35mm wide tire the contact patch is 1" x 1" we do the same math and get 65PSI needed to overcome gravitational force. If we run that 23mm tire at less then 130PSI, then we increase the deformation and rolling resistance over the wider tire at 65PSI.

For the 125lb rider on the 20lb bicycle (made of pure unobtainium) where the total load requires a pressure far less then the manufacturers maximum pressure rating on the tire, this doesn't make much difference. For larger riders, where the required pressure can be well over the recommended rated maximum, narrow tires can actually offer higher rolling resistance. This also tells us something else, for touring add weight to the front, before adding it to the rear, as you have more pressure room available there. Guess I need to pick up a bar bag for my camera gear now, fortunately the bike show starts tomorrow.
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Old 03-06-08, 07:45 PM   #21
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Did I hear a smilie request?

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Old 03-06-08, 08:47 PM   #22
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I'm riding a Deep V that I built on a 32 Ultegra hub 23 tires, 12,000 miles and still perfect!
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Old 03-06-08, 08:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CliftonGK1 View Post
If the only choice you want is silver or black, then there's the Mavic Cxp22 and Cxp33.
If you want no choices, then there's the Alex DA-28 which I think only comes in black.

But V's are 30 mm high, others are only 24'ish (?, not as deep as the V). Not familiar with the A28.
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Old 03-06-08, 09:06 PM   #24
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I'm running 23mm right now - wow it's a treat going up hills!

Oh yeah - and Gatorskins rock.
23mm - me too! I definitely recommend as narrow a tire that you can stand. Gatorskins are an amazingly durable tire.
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Old 03-06-08, 09:15 PM   #25
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I have Mavic Aksium Race wheelset and Armadillo tires 700 x 25. I weigh 245 and have not had a flat or problems in 1000 miles. FTW
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