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Thread: Letour

  1. #26
    Downtown Spanky Brown bautieri's Avatar
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    Nice bike!

    If you don't mind me asking an off topic question, how do you like the tube shifters? I've never rode a bike with them but they seem awkward to me.

    Bau

  2. #27
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bautieri View Post
    Nice bike!

    If you don't mind me asking an off topic question, how do you like the tube shifters? I've never rode a bike with them but they seem awkward to me.

    Bau
    They pretty much suck until you get used to them......then they're just awkward. I may go to bar end shifters when I recover from the tuneup and new tire expense....or forget about indexed and do friction shifters on the stem.

    Not a horrible ride as is though.
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
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  3. #28
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by East Hill View Post
    I would say that the top pivot (the 'guide wheel') is worn, so that could be why the chain is coming off, yes. It sounds as if you would want to replace the pivot. Check in with the C & V crowd to see if anyone happens to have either a pivot, or a spare appropriate derailleur.

    East Hill
    Found the problem when I took it in for the tune up. It was a bent hanger. I get it back on the 15th (busy time of year here in Texas) and can't wait to play.
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
    >>>Team Critical Mess<<< (You mean it's not SUPPOSE to hurt?)

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  4. #29
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    OK...Here's the scoop

    I heard back from the LBS shop today and found that along with the RD hanger being bent...that the RD is toast. refitting with new front and rear dérailleurs and replacing the rear cassette they said would cost an extra $200 (rounded up).
    So allong with the $175 I was planning on putting into the thing and my initial investment of $100, its beginning to look like I should cut my losses pay the $30 worth of work they've put into it so far, and bail out. Maybe think of just buying a new entry level bike. I hate the idea of going to a hybrid though.

    Thoughts and suggestions are welcomed.
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
    >>>Team Critical Mess<<< (You mean it's not SUPPOSE to hurt?)

    My nice new Nashbar Touring Build AKA "The Flying Avocadooooooooo!"
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  5. #30
    SERENITY NOW!!! jyossarian's Avatar
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    Turn it into a SS and ditch the derailleurs.

    edit: If you don't want to spend more money, and the dropouts are horizontal, remove the RD and FD, pick a chainring/cog combo that's straight, shorten the chain and you've got a cheap SS. If the dropouts are vertical, you'll need to keep tension on the chain so leave the RD on.

    edit edit: Looks horizontal to me. Ditch the RD.
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  6. #31
    Triathlon in my future??? flip18436572's Avatar
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    You can get an entry level road bike for the same amount of money you would have totally invested in that older bike. That would be the way I would go, but each person has their own ideas of what will work for them.

    Good luck in whatever way you go.
    2007 Jamis Ventura Comp
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    Swim, Bike, Run and sounds like fun

  7. #32
    Senior Member ludeboy_77's Avatar
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    Post the question over in C&V. A shop should be able to replace the RD without swapping the whole drivetrain. But it is up to you. You should be able to recover the price you paid for the bike, so if you want to go with a new bike the option is open. The real question should be, how well does this old Schwinn fit you?

    When you get bitten by the cycling bug, dropping 200 bucks happens all the time.

  8. #33
    cycling n00b Black Shuck's Avatar
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    I'd buy that thing a semi-cheap ss wheelset and cranks, with moderate gearing and 28mm tires it would be a good all day bike unless it's very hilly where you live :-) Or get a small bunch of tools, learn how the stuff works and maybe buy used replacement parts on eBay or somesuch and save a bunch, there's life in that bike still.

  9. #34
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ludeboy_77 View Post
    Post the question over in C&V. A shop should be able to replace the RD without swapping the whole drivetrain. But it is up to you. You should be able to recover the price you paid for the bike, so if you want to go with a new bike the option is open. The real question should be, how well does this old Schwinn fit you?

    When you get bitten by the cycling bug, dropping 200 bucks happens all the time.
    the drive train is Blaze / SunTour.. noted for not working with anything else and is now hard to find.
    I may just look on Ebay and see if I can find anything.

    The size is fine.
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
    >>>Team Critical Mess<<< (You mean it's not SUPPOSE to hurt?)

    My nice new Nashbar Touring Build AKA "The Flying Avocadooooooooo!"
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  10. #35
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    My LeTour is a 73 model and it is still all original except for the tires, brake pads, tape, and seat. It is in pristine condition. I am not sure where the original seat is. I replaced it immediately on purchase with a leather seat. I still have the original owner's manual and brochure.

  11. #36
    The Improbable Bulk Little Darwin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Stormcrowe View Post
    At some point, you'll want to have the wheels rebuilt with a DeepV rim like the Velocity. You done good though on the price.
    I decided to look at a Velocity rim in response to this, and look what I found:

    http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Dyad+Rim.aspx

    The Velocity Dyad with drillings for 32, 40 and 42 spokes.

    Would someone explain what spoke pattern works with 42 spokes.



    PS - I know it is just a typo

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  12. #37
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    Just picked the bike up from the shop. They had been good enough to call before doing too much work...and after deciding the options offered by them weren't the way I wanted to go...they didn't charge me.

    Found a RD on Ebay that says it will work with my setup...so I'll be taking this as an opportunity to learn some mechanic-ing.
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
    >>>Team Critical Mess<<< (You mean it's not SUPPOSE to hurt?)

    My nice new Nashbar Touring Build AKA "The Flying Avocadooooooooo!"
    1998(?) Trek 700 Multitrack
    1995 Trek 1220 AKA "Jimi"
    Older Non-suspension Specialized Hardrock

  13. #38
    Space Dust
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jtgyk View Post
    Just picked the bike up from the shop. They had been good enough to call before doing too much work...and after deciding the options offered by them weren't the way I wanted to go...they didn't charge me.
    You mean you didn't want to slide a new bike in under the seat???

  14. #39
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Torque1st View Post
    You mean you didn't want to slide a new bike in under the seat???
    Welllll....they DID have a nice used Raleigh Super Sport (current year I think) for $550...but I just did my taxes and have a kid going to college out of state. If I'd gone for it the DW would have Killed me.


    I'll have to do the letour piecemeal...just found a used RD on ebay that should work with my existing system.


    Spokes on the back need tightening and should be ready to go. Did my 4 mile commute this morning on it and it seems ok.

    Now if I can move those down tube shifters.....


    Oh...with the # stamped on the BB H905595...I guess that means it's a 1990 model?
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
    >>>Team Critical Mess<<< (You mean it's not SUPPOSE to hurt?)

    My nice new Nashbar Touring Build AKA "The Flying Avocadooooooooo!"
    1998(?) Trek 700 Multitrack
    1995 Trek 1220 AKA "Jimi"
    Older Non-suspension Specialized Hardrock

  15. #40
    Space Dust
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    The down tube shifters work OK, not as convenient as others but they work. You will get used to them.

    Now get those spokes tightened, that wheel aligned, and that RD replaced. There are people to help in the mechanic forum.

  16. #41
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    The verdict is in! The LeTour stays in the stable!

    Spokes tightened, new Continental Sport tires, replaced rear Der (not Blaze but still Accushift. Works great!) and put on an Avatar Gel saddle and the clips from my Hardrock.

    Between the Collin Classic and commuting, I did 35 miles of rolling hills on June 14. (I'm very relieved that I didn't choose to ride the Hardrock!) The LeTour did great. By the end I was even happy with the down tube shifting.

    The seat was an ordeal! I took it back to the LBS and exchanged it for a Brooks B17....It it sooo much better! Now I'll have to get a Brooks for the Hardrock.
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
    >>>Team Critical Mess<<< (You mean it's not SUPPOSE to hurt?)

    My nice new Nashbar Touring Build AKA "The Flying Avocadooooooooo!"
    1998(?) Trek 700 Multitrack
    1995 Trek 1220 AKA "Jimi"
    Older Non-suspension Specialized Hardrock

  17. #42
    just me freeagent1970's Avatar
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    Very nice bike...as tom said arayas are nice..i restore old bmx bikes and arayas are the "best" in that world..i love the bike

  18. #43
    Space Dust
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    I am glad you like it!

  19. #44
    Senior Member Wogster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jtgyk View Post
    Just bought this for $100...so far all I've done is replaced the tape and a cursory cleaning.
    Its a 1986 Schwinn Letour road bike; 57cm top tube; triple chain ring, 7 speed cassette (total of 21 speeds). Computer (needs battery) and SPD pedals (replaced with platforms to test) included.

    Didn't know that Letour came in 21 speed flavor and has index shifting on the down tube.

    I'm riding it rather gingerly now learning how much to trust 700c wheels.

    So was I insane to get this or not? I'm a big Big boy.


    I didn't know that ANYONE did index on the down tube shifters. 700c wheels come in a variety of flavours, and they can all be good. The real issue is, spoke tension, the heavier the rider and/or lower the spoke count, the more important spoke tension becomes. If there is a wheel builder close by, who is fairly competent, then take the wheels to them, and get the wheels checked over, paying special attention to spoke tension. This is especially important for the rear wheel, which holds most of the weight. With a bike that old, you might want to get them to repack the hubs as well, hubs use grease as a lubricant, as it gets older, some of the solvents will evaporate off, and the grease becomes gummy. This is not a good thing, maybe getting the wheels maintained will cost you another $100 or so, but your still doing well.....

  20. #45
    Senior Member Jtgyk's Avatar
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    (interesting photo's have been popping up in this thread. don't know where the pix of the lady's with the drinks come from.)

    Another 20 miler with the Brooks and, after adjusting the nose upward (go figure) it's turning into one sweet ride.

    Last edited by Jtgyk; 06-22-08 at 10:48 AM.
    Hey, I'm just this GUY...you know?
    >>>Team Critical Mess<<< (You mean it's not SUPPOSE to hurt?)

    My nice new Nashbar Touring Build AKA "The Flying Avocadooooooooo!"
    1998(?) Trek 700 Multitrack
    1995 Trek 1220 AKA "Jimi"
    Older Non-suspension Specialized Hardrock

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