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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 06-02-08, 05:32 PM   #1
bikelver
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Deraliur question

Ok, so i tried to do a 15 mile ride today, and i got four miles out, my derailur kicked (without me shifting, or touching gears) and i do not now why, i did wash it down, and thgrow t-9 on the chain, checked and my gears are aligned, so i dont know what else to do, i can not ride it like this because it hurts my back when it does the whole kick (which feels like its shifting) any ideas??? should i take it into the shop, it is a 2007 specilized hard rock, and it had a crank recall (which i didnt find out till my crank broke in mid ride and i slid across the gravel of the parie path)
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Old 06-02-08, 05:35 PM   #2
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Frame flex and ghost shifting?

Have the cable tension checked, first off.
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Old 06-02-08, 05:44 PM   #3
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skip shifting

Tom: The late Sheldon Brown covered several options in his columns on Harris Cyclery.
www.bicyclingreviews.com just covered a similar question and what they covered might help.

FWIW I've got the MOTO CF up on the trainer untill I can get a handle on the &%*&^^ paddle shifting on the Shimano ultegra setup. (Man o Man give me the old downtube shifters any day!)
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Old 06-02-08, 05:48 PM   #4
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Rear derailleur?.....Your gears can looked aligned but not be. Turn the cable barrel till the chain starts to rub on the next gear up. Then back it off just a 1/4 turn or so, You should be in the ballpark then. After that it only takes a nudge of the barrel to make fine adjustments.
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Old 06-02-08, 07:00 PM   #5
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gears 1-6 are working fine now, but 7 and 8 are still "ghost shifting"
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Old 06-02-08, 07:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikelver View Post
gears 1-6 are working fine now, but 7 and 8 are still "ghost shifting"
Are the limit screw set enough so that they will allow the chain to sit in the outter most gear (high) and the innermost(low) gears? That cn make for bad alignment on the top or bottom side too.

You will see two small screw heads at the rear of the derailleur. One is marked 'H' the other 'L'.

Loosen to allow the chain to travel further in that direction. (CCW)
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Old 06-02-08, 07:19 PM   #7
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My Columbian MTB did that when I first bought it. Look in this thread for tips on adjusting your derailleurs. AEO even provided videos to make it easier. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-02-08, 07:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger63 View Post
FWIW I've got the MOTO CF up on the trainer untill I can get a handle on the &%*&^^ paddle shifting on the Shimano ultegra setup. (Man o Man give me the old downtube shifters any day!)
Not to hijack the thread, but if your frame doesn't have downtube shifter mounts and you still want your shifters to work independently of your brake levers (don't get me started ) There are two options that are still available for road bikes. Barend shifters (assuming you don't have a carbon bar, or Kelly Takeoffs (still available sometimes on ebay). In case you have flat bars, you can get paul thumbies mounts and a set of barend shifters to transplant onto the thumb shifter mounts.
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Old 06-03-08, 12:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ranger63 View Post
FWIW I've got the MOTO CF up on the trainer untill I can get a handle on the &%*&^^ paddle shifting on the Shimano ultegra setup. (Man o Man give me the old downtube shifters any day!)
Are you having trouble remembering which lever does what? Or a problem getting the whole setup adjusted and shifting smoothly? I recently upgraded from bar-end shifters to Ultegra STI shifters and was surprised at how easy it was to get used to the shifting pattern... Setup wasn't too bad either, though the instructions didn't mention adjusting the cable tension (which I found necessary to get the rear to shift consistently).
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Old 06-03-08, 05:51 AM   #10
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Might be a tight link in the Chain.

To check this out back pedal the bike and watch as the chain passes through the rear derailluer. If it hops or jumps while spinning backwards you will see it and in that area of chain you'll find the bad link. Lubing and loosening that link will help.

Look at the Link that joined the chain together. It should have a darker pin then the rest of the pins. I usually start there and work to the rest. If you have a quick link in the chain, it might not be seated properly, or if removed and re-used a few times, may have spread a little. If this is the case, replace the quick link. Some manufacturers claim they are only for a single use and need to be replaced every time you break the chain. We have found that they should work for a few clean and lubes without the need for replacement.

I hope this helps.
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