Deraliur question
06-02-08, 05:32 PM
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Deraliur question
Ok, so i tried to do a 15 mile ride today, and i got four miles out, my derailur kicked (without me shifting, or touching gears) and i do not now why, i did wash it down, and thgrow t-9 on the chain, checked and my gears are aligned, so i dont know what else to do, i can not ride it like this because it hurts my back when it does the whole kick (which feels like its shifting) any ideas??? should i take it into the shop, it is a 2007 specilized hard rock, and it had a crank recall (which i didnt find out till my crank broke in mid ride and i slid across the gravel of the parie path)
06-02-08, 05:35 PM
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Frame flex and ghost shifting?
Have the cable tension checked, first off.
Have the cable tension checked, first off.
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. “He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you.”- Fredrick Nietzsche
"We can judge the heart of a man by his treatment of animals." - Immanuel Kant
06-02-08, 05:44 PM
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skip shifting
Tom: The late Sheldon Brown covered several options in his columns on Harris Cyclery.
www.bicyclingreviews.com just covered a similar question and what they covered might help.
FWIW I've got the MOTO CF up on the trainer untill I can get a handle on the &%*&^^ paddle shifting on the Shimano ultegra setup. (Man o Man give me the old downtube shifters any day!)
www.bicyclingreviews.com just covered a similar question and what they covered might help.
FWIW I've got the MOTO CF up on the trainer untill I can get a handle on the &%*&^^ paddle shifting on the Shimano ultegra setup. (Man o Man give me the old downtube shifters any day!)
06-02-08, 05:48 PM
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Rear derailleur?.....Your gears can looked aligned but not be. Turn the cable barrel till the chain starts to rub on the next gear up. Then back it off just a 1/4 turn or so, You should be in the ballpark then. After that it only takes a nudge of the barrel to make fine adjustments.
06-02-08, 07:07 PM
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You will see two small screw heads at the rear of the derailleur. One is marked 'H' the other 'L'.
Loosen to allow the chain to travel further in that direction. (CCW)
06-02-08, 07:19 PM
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My Columbian MTB did that when I first bought it. Look in this thread for tips on adjusting your derailleurs. AEO even provided videos to make it easier. Hope this helps.
Ernest
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06-02-08, 07:19 PM
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) There are two options that are still available for road bikes. Barend shifters (assuming you don't have a carbon bar, or Kelly Takeoffs (still available sometimes on ebay). In case you have flat bars, you can get paul thumbies mounts and a set of barend shifters to transplant onto the thumb shifter mounts.
06-03-08, 12:38 AM
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Are you having trouble remembering which lever does what? Or a problem getting the whole setup adjusted and shifting smoothly? I recently upgraded from bar-end shifters to Ultegra STI shifters and was surprised at how easy it was to get used to the shifting pattern... Setup wasn't too bad either, though the instructions didn't mention adjusting the cable tension (which I found necessary to get the rear to shift consistently).
06-03-08, 05:51 AM
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Might be a tight link in the Chain.
To check this out back pedal the bike and watch as the chain passes through the rear derailluer. If it hops or jumps while spinning backwards you will see it and in that area of chain you'll find the bad link. Lubing and loosening that link will help.
Look at the Link that joined the chain together. It should have a darker pin then the rest of the pins. I usually start there and work to the rest. If you have a quick link in the chain, it might not be seated properly, or if removed and re-used a few times, may have spread a little. If this is the case, replace the quick link. Some manufacturers claim they are only for a single use and need to be replaced every time you break the chain. We have found that they should work for a few clean and lubes without the need for replacement.
I hope this helps.
To check this out back pedal the bike and watch as the chain passes through the rear derailluer. If it hops or jumps while spinning backwards you will see it and in that area of chain you'll find the bad link. Lubing and loosening that link will help.
Look at the Link that joined the chain together. It should have a darker pin then the rest of the pins. I usually start there and work to the rest. If you have a quick link in the chain, it might not be seated properly, or if removed and re-used a few times, may have spread a little. If this is the case, replace the quick link. Some manufacturers claim they are only for a single use and need to be replaced every time you break the chain. We have found that they should work for a few clean and lubes without the need for replacement.
I hope this helps.
