ggreene

Hiya everyone,

My name is Greg and I'm thinking of getting back into bicycling after a very long time of being
out of shape and doing other things. Over the last year and half I've managed to get myself
down from 376 pounds to 252 pounds through diet and walking/running/basketball but would
like to avoid the running because of the toll it seems to take on me, especially knees and
achillies tendons. I put myself on a pretty stupid restricted diet over the Winter and as a result
was in starvation mode for a while so I unfortunately lost some muscle. Have since got myself
eating more sensibly on 7 small meals a day and some CC/PB before bedtime. I need to lift some
weights but I also would like to try cycling again. I figure I have another 5 months of decent
weather to take advantage of before the weather intrudes. I live in Southeast NH and have
access to a road with a few hills that doesn't have too much traffic so that seems like a nice
course to start out on.

I still have my old bike from long ago, a Cannondale road bike (sorry can't remember what model
and can't find it on the frame) but that thing looks so uncomfortable to ride. It's an aluminum
frame with oversized downtube and is kinda stiff if I remember right. I dragged it out of the
garage today. The wheels are gone of course and I'm sure all the cabling is really awful. I was
wondering what you guys thought about maybe taking this thing to the LBS and having them
check it out and maybe put some different components on it. It's got to be pushing 20 years
old now. Is it worth it to do that or just buy a new one? If not, what's a nice road/street bike
these days?

I'm not looking to compete at anything just enjoy a good ride and get the heart beating. Comfort
is pretty important to me because that will make me use it more. Unfortunately, we don't get to
choose where we lose weight first and I have a very unpadded, exposed tailbone now so I'm
looking at minimum of having to get a special seat for that. I'd also like to have a more upright
position with maybe the flat handlebars. I'm 44 now and would like to take it easy on my back.
Problem is I have no idea if my old bike can even accept modern components now. It may not have
the right mounting brackets.

Any suggestions or advice would be most appreciated. I have saved up a little bit of money for this
but nothing spectacular. Currently got a little under $1000 budgeted for it and that seems like more
then enough for a beginner like me. Someone suggested to me to get the Coda Elite at Jamisbikes:

https://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/...odaelite.html#

I don't know very much about them but the website is pretty nice and there is a local dealer in the
area although they don't have much in stock. I'm out of the loop on the latest in bikes I'm afraid
so forgive me if that suggestion is awful. I'm just relaying it. On the surface it seems nice enough.

Anyways, thanks for any help guys. I hope to be biking soon.

Greg

wrk101

I would really be surprised that the wheels are gone. I would bet it is just tires and tubes, which can be had for very little money. Just replace the tires and tubes, and ride it. I would not have a LBS put new components on it, that would quickly exceed the value of the bike. Do what you can yourself. Ride it for a while. See if you enjoy bicycling, and if so, you then will be ready for the bike of your dreams.

You also could be surprised that a road bike is more comfortable than you think. Many older riders are riding road/racing bikes.

A twenty year old Cannondale in good shape still has some decent value. So if you reach that point, sell it on Craigs List and use the funds as a partial payment towards your next bike. Heck, by then, you will probably be a member of the N+1 club (meaning you will add a second, third, etc bike to the collection, rather than selling it).

Old bikes I own/ride: 1973 Schwinn, 1975 Peugeot, 1983 Trek, 1990 Giant, 1991 Schwinn, 1992 Trek, and one modern bike (2005 Trek). And I am 52.

Wogster

Before you buy a new bicycle, you should get your old one checked out, minimum that needs to be replaced is tires, tubes, brake pads, chain, cables are possible, but not always, sometimes just flushing out the housings and oiling the cable wire is enough. You may need to repack the bearings in the hubs, bottom bracket, headset and pedals, bar tape if very dirty or if it has mould on it, should be replaced.

I would say probably $100 or so, plus parts, maybe $150 total, if you find you like riding again, then you can add a nice weather bike, add a rack and fenders to your existing bike as a beater bike.

LarDasse74

If you are set on getting a new bike then just make sure the one you get fits well (is comfortable to ride) and everything else should fall into place.

If you are interested in riding the cannondale, get the fit checked by a shop that specializes in fitting. You may need a different bar/stem combo, or adjust the seat, or the bike may be completley ill fitted for the type of riding you want to do.

Also, to make a harsh-riding bike more comfortable, install slightly fatter tires... many people I used to ride with used 18 or 19mm wide tires for day-to day use then complained about the bike being uncomfortable. Slap some 28mm or 30 mm(if they fit in the frame and fork) and suddenly it rides like a caddilac.

Good luck!

bcc

Welcome aboard. I'd second what others have said - you shouldn't need to spend much to resurrect the old bike if it's in decent condition and riding it for a bit will give you more of an idea of what you want in your next bike

phinney

Any flat or drop bar bike is going to be uncomfortable when you're overweight and not in biking shape. If you can get your old bike going for not too much that is where I'd began. Ride regularly but don't go for long rides. Build up gradually and you'll be fine.

CACycling

+10 on that. And my commuter is a 31 year old Schwinn so don't be too concerned about the age of your bike. Get it in, get it checked out, tuned and road ready. Then just start riding it every day and you'll be amazed how quickly you will start racking up the miles.

parker63

Hi Greg:

In regards to changing out your drop bar handlebars to flat bars...

First of all I'll state that I'm a little shy of 5'10" and I'm around 225lbs, so I'm definitely overweight and out of shape myself. I had two bikes in the garage on hooks gathering dust for about 10 years and thought I'd give it a try to get back into it. One of my bikes was a hybrid with flat bars (Univega Activa Trail) and was a little bit heavy. My other bike was a lighter road bike, a Centurion LeMans RS, with drop bars. I was questioning whether or not I should try changing out the handlebars on that one. After a couple of people suggested that I go for, I gave it a shot.

I took it to a LBS, told them what I had in mind, and about four days later got it back. Cost about $100 out the door, but to me it was worth it. It's so much more comfortable for my back and neck now. I kept the drop bars just in case I ever want to switch back, but for right now until I can get my weight down, it sure feels a whole lot more comfortable to ride on.

I guess what I'm saying is, if your Cannondale is really light and you like it a lot, don't sell it. Take it to an LBS and have them look it over and give you an estimate of what your bike would need. Then you can give the flat bars a shot and see how it feels...it might surprise you. YMMV, but I sure like what they did with mine.

Here's what mine looks like now:



Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

flip18436572

I own Jamis bikes and like them a lot, but I also have a great LBS. I wouldn't worry about the brand too much, but rather find a good LBS.

I would take your old bike to the LBS and ask them about a once over on yours and ask for some quotes. Tires and tubes you should be able to do yourself, but you may want to get in good with the LBS and let them do that for you also.

txvintage

I have a 20 yr old Cannondale as well. It's a great bike, and well worth riding if it's something you won't dread doing so on.

The things that I feel are worth considering about the bike are it's very light, has quality components, and will absolutely fly when you have the legs for it. On the down side is that the aluminum which makes it so light is also very stiff and tends to transmit every little bump and vibration to your body, or so it seems until you get used to it.

The thing to do is count the number of cogs on your rear cluster. Chances are it will not be 8, more likely 7 or 6. Your LBS can tell you if it is a freewheel or a cassette, and it you can upgrade from there. Being that it is aluminum, spreading the rear drop outs for upgrades in gears might get tricky, but I know people who have done it and lived to tell about it.

Increasing the cogs in the back will give you more range, but you will have to trade your indexed shifting for friction shifting. Not that big of a deal 6, 7, or 8 gears. Another option is to put a triple crank on it and gain a whole bunch of gears. Living in NH, this might be an attractive alternative. You don't have to spend a fortune on racing components to do this, Truvative or some similar manufacturer have some very reasonably priced triples. Again, you will have to use friction mode instead of just clicking your shifters, but still not a big deal. If your going to get a complete tune up with lube, your bottom bracket is going to come off anyways, so putting the triple on there shouldn't involve any additional labor cost.

Another option for later, which I have been considering, is replacing the aluminum fork with a carbon fiber fork. Nashbar has one with headset and stem right now for about $125. I'm not ready to pull the trigger on it yet but the idea is quite appealing. It will greatly reduce the amount of vibration and increase the comfort level for your arms and hands.

All that being said, with a budget of around $1000 you have a ton of options. As you ride more, you will find your bike count may increase. That being said, you might consider one of several great hybrids out there that are around $400. Remember that what ever you ride, you will need some basic equipment bike helmet, your 20 yr old one is a wall decoration at this point, a tube repair kit/pump, and most will recommend shorts and jersey for comfort. A lot of us are self conscious about Lycra, but once you ride in it, you will overcome that aspect. It is a purpose designed product, and it works. Much more comfy on the backside.

After getting more back in the swing of things, you would still have the Cannondale at your disposal, and some significant funds left over for modernization. I can promise you will not find a new road bike that is the quality of your Cannondale for the money, even if you sink around $200-300 in upgrades into it down the road. Heck, A Shimano Sora equipped Specialized or Trek in my area is $800 at the LBS, and the Cannondale is every bit the bike they are, with better components even given their age.

Feel free to PM with any questions, or some more specifics on what can be done to bring your Cannondale back up to more modern options.

wireless

Check cyclocross bikes - they built stronger and will handle your weight just fine. I am 6'5" and 275 lbs - riding Giant TCX size XL. Bought it last year, put about 2,000 miles on it - did century too. This season am at 1300 miles total ( target 2000 again) , riding 100 miles a week and did couple of metrics on this bike - and bike still runs strong. I had to replace wheels after car crash, otherwise everything is stock. I think this year Giant makes 2 TCX models , cheaper one going for $850.

ggreene

Thanks everyone. Taking my bike in to a LBS tomorrow and see what they have to say about a check
up and maybe some replacements and/or additions.

It's amazing how little rust/corrosion there is on it after all this time. Just a little bit of rust on the
front wheel hub where there is a piece of metal insert. Not sure what that is or if it can be replaced.

Did some research on the bike on the internet. Found a Cannondale gallery of photos for bikes and
by looking at the placement and lettering of the logo it looks like its from the late 80's and the
Maillard wheel hub is date stamped 88 so that sounds right. Could be an SR400 or SR600.

Here's some info I wrote down on what it has for components.

Wobler Super Champion Modele 58 Rims
Miche Competition Front Wheel Hub
Maillard Back Wheel Hub
Select Tires 27x1 1/8
Nitto Handlebar and stem
Dia Compe Royal Brakes
Shimano Deore Derailleur/Rerailleur
Shimano Deore Biopace Crankset (50, 44, 28)
Shimano SIS Friction Set Downtude Shifters
Rear Cog is unknown but it's a set of 6

Given my experience level I'm sure those are all perfectly fine just really depends on what condition
the LBS says they are in. Two things I really don't like about this bike are the handlebars and the
downtube shifters. Kinda wish everything was up on the handlebars where it's easy to get to. Not
really sure that is fixable though. We'll see.

txvintage

Down Tube shifters can be replaced by "brifters", a combination of brake levers and shifters. This can get kind of expensive. A used set of Shimano Sora on eBay can run $80-100. Shimano RSX brifters are sometimes on there, and should be cheaper. I think the lowest speed I've seen are 8 speed though for either one.

Another, and way more economical, approach is bar end shifters like what all the touring guys like.

ggreene

Well, my old bike went to the doctors today. The guy at the LBS said that it didn't look to bad.
Gonna get a tune up, new tubes/tires, and a new mount for the handlebars that is more adjustable
and will give me a more comfortable position. I'm not going to change out the shifters on the
downtube. I'll give it a try and see if they are really that annoying.

Only thing I really need is a seat and after looking around at all the different kinds on the internet
it's pretty hard to tell what will feel good. I have a very exposed tailbone with the weight loss and
ordinary seats would kill me. The Pro-Hub X2 looks kinda interesting. I'm trying to find some feedback
on it. There's a spongy one too that looks very unusual. I'm not sure about some of them though.

LBS said give them about a week so that gives me time to figure out what I want.