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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 07-26-08, 08:41 PM   #1
dvon1981
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Starting to wish I had a full road bike...looking for some advice

(there are actually questions bellow my story here, to skip to them go to the bold text if you're feeling lazy)

So I JUST bought a brand new Specialized Sirrus sport about 4 months ago, i do love it, but i feel like i'm already starting to outgrow it. Having not ridden for about 8 years I figured I'd end up just doing 10-15 mile rides for exercise but not much more than that. Well turns out I was wrong. I'm consistently doing a minimum of 20 miles/ride now and looking to do a 50 mile ride in about a month. The thing is on some of the longer rides the bike just doesn't give the extra hand positions or aerodynamics that I'm starting to want.

Now, there really was no way for me to anticipate this would happen so I don't regret buying the bike per se, but I'm having a hard time rationalizing trying to sell a 4 month old bike just to go out and buy another bike.

Questions
1. Am I dumb for wanting to sell a 4 month old hyrbrid to get a road bike
2. Any advice on how much I could ask for a 4 month of Specialized Sirrus Sport? It's in perfect shape. Also any advice on where to sell it?

3. Any advice on bikes to look at? I'm still a very big guy though losing weight from riding (6 ft 285) , I test rode an Alez Elite (geometry felt a bike too aggressive to me) and a Cannondale Caad 9 6 (felt FAST, though I had a bit of worry that the bike felt too stiff, felt like everything from the pavement transmitted right through the seat/bars, worried that could become tiring over a long ride but hard to tell over a quick test ride.) What else should I consider in similar price range $1000-$1100

This is sort of a lot of questions but you guys haven't steered me wrong yet.
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Old 07-26-08, 08:54 PM   #2
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Well, you could slap a set of drop bars and change to road bike Brifters. You'd get a bike very similar to the Roubaix in geometry.

http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkM...?sid=08Roubaix
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Old 07-26-08, 08:57 PM   #3
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If your bike Fits you, just Change your bars. Then you will have a road bike.

It looks like a nice bike. on the web site.

http://mikesbikes.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1282

Can you post a photo of your actual bike?
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Old 07-26-08, 08:57 PM   #4
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1. No you are not dumb. I think a lot of people are sold on the comfort of a hybrid, but once they start riding, realize that a road bike is what they really want.

2. Unfortunately, figure a 33% haircut on what you paid for the bike, rough guess. Check Craigs List in your area, and see if people are doing better than that. I bought a used road bike that had 2 1/2 miles on it for less than 50% of what original owner paid for it.........

3. I would base part of your choice on the bike shop you prefer, what do they carry? Maybe they'll make you a good trade on your current bike???? Of course, I am always buying used, so in my case, its more about what good bike is available (you need to be more brand flexible in the used market).

Your other choice is to go the N+1 route (keep it and grow the fleet).


While I was writing this, I saw Tom's message. Rather than take a major haircut on the sale, you should consider a couple of simple changes that would extend the usability of your current bike. Tom's comments make a lot of sense. Brifters are expensive, so an interim move is to try out Trekking bars, which give you many more hand positions, while using hybrid/mtb controls. Trekking bars can be had for around $20, so they are easy to try with basically no risk.

Last edited by wrk101; 07-26-08 at 09:01 PM. Reason: addl info
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Old 07-26-08, 09:13 PM   #5
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If your bike Fits you, just Change your bars. Then you will have a road bike.

It looks like a nice bike. on the web site.

http://mikesbikes.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1282

Can you post a photo of your actual bike?
mine looks exactly like the one in that pic, here's a bigger one from specialized site
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Old 07-26-08, 09:16 PM   #6
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mine looks exactly like the one in that pic, here's a bigger one from specialized site
For comparison, the Roubaix. Look at the similarity of geometry here.

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Old 07-26-08, 09:21 PM   #7
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For comparison, the Roubaix. Look at the similarity of geometry here.

yeah, was just looking at the specs on specialized site, def VERY close in geometry between the two bikes, I guess I'd need to price out all the components I'd need to switch out, just seems like the cost of parts would exceed the cost of selling my bike and buying a new one. i'd def need to swap out the cassette as well since the sirrus has an 8 spd, to get decent road components I'd need a new cassette and then new derailer. add that to brifters ($300ish and I'm easily over $500 in stuff to add on to the bike. and then I feel like I'd have an ok bike but not a great bike.

Last edited by dvon1981; 07-26-08 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 07-26-08, 09:31 PM   #8
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If you are going to make the switch to 9 or 10 speed that would actualy cost a bit. But with what they said about the trekking bars that could be your first shot and you can keep your original stuff. If not im sure there are people that have 8spd brifters lying around't that they wouldn't mind selling you. I actually have sora 9sd brifters (ugraded to tiagra), and my tiagra rd and sora rd lying aorund now (for 9sd double). But if you do make the switch to 9 or 10 spd you may need to look into getting new cranks also. I am almost certain that my brifters would work for you in a 9 spd set up but my derailers would not as it looks like the sirrus has a triple set up.
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Old 07-26-08, 09:38 PM   #9
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If you are going to make the switch to 9 or 10 speed that would actualy cost a bit. But with what they said about the trekking bars that could be your first shot and you can keep your original stuff. If not im sure there are people that have 8spd brifters lying around't that they wouldn't mind selling you. I actually have sora 9sd brifters (ugraded to tiagra), and my tiagra rd and sora rd lying aorund now (for 9sd double). But if you do make the switch to 9 or 10 spd you may need to look into getting new cranks also. I am almost certain that my brifters would work for you in a 9 spd set up but my derailers would not as it looks like the sirrus has a triple set up.
yeah the more i'm looking at parts it just doesn't make sense to me, it'd be close to $600 in parts to really get everything, That's just too much to justify. I think i'll post it up on CL and just see what happens. If I can't move it I'll just hold on to it and use it at least through the year.
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Old 07-26-08, 09:42 PM   #10
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ok so I guess let's assume I'm looking at road bikes, other than the 2 i tested already any advice?
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Old 07-26-08, 09:44 PM   #11
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By geometry, I mean the frame/HB setup. You aren't going to gain any speed going to the 10 speed rear drivetrain, it just gives you more narrow range options. All you'd need to change out for a full on road bike would be the handlebars and brake Lever/Shifters. You can also do this a lot cheaper with maybe a set of trekking bars as mentioned above (Bow Tie bars), to get more hand positions.

Pick up some used Brifters off of Fleabay and a set of Cane Creek bars that would fit your stem clamp and you'll be good to go. That or a set of Nitto Noodles in Silver alloy for a match. Then you'd need some bar tape.


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yeah, was just looking at the specs on specialized site, def VERY close in geometry between the two bikes, I guess I'd need to price out all the components I'd need to switch out, just seems like the cost of parts would exceed the cost of selling my bike and buying a new one, i'll def check out that option though. i'd def need to swap out the cassette as well since the sirrus has an 8 spd
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Old 07-26-08, 09:58 PM   #12
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By geometry, I mean the frame/HB setup. You aren't going to gain any speed going to the 10 speed rear drivetrain, it just gives you more narrow range options. All you'd need to change out for a full on road bike would be the handlebars and brake Lever/Shifters. You can also do this a lot cheaper with maybe a set of trekking bars as mentioned above (Bow Tie bars), to get more hand positions.

Pick up some used Brifters off of Fleabay and a set of Cane Creek bars that would fit your stem clamp and you'll be good to go. That or a set of Nitto Noodles in Silver alloy for a match. Then you'd need some bar tape.
I'm having trouble finding brifters that work with an 8spd cassette, i don't see any on shimano's site.
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Old 07-27-08, 05:01 AM   #13
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Have you considered getting a set of bar end shifters? They are much cheaper and very nice. You'll really appreciate them after thumb shifters - they are dead accurate and virtually bomb proof.
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Old 07-27-08, 05:11 AM   #14
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For comparison, the Roubaix. Look at the similarity of geometry here.

While on the subject, Trek's fx series of hybrids has the same geometry as the Pilot road bike.
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Old 07-27-08, 09:07 AM   #15
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I'm having trouble finding brifters that work with an 8spd cassette, i don't see any on shimano's site.

Sora (Shimano)was 8 speed a couple of years ago. I thought it still might be, are they not listed?
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Old 07-27-08, 09:52 AM   #16
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There are five sets of 8 speed brifters on ebay right now, all SORA.
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Old 07-27-08, 09:54 AM   #17
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OOOOOOOO, godd suggestion, and here are some 8 speed indexed bar enders.

http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1137

Or Harris has Schimano 8 speed Sora level STI for $180.00~

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/shifters.html#brifters

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Have you considered getting a set of bar end shifters? They are much cheaper and very nice. You'll really appreciate them after thumb shifters - they are dead accurate and virtually bomb proof.
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Old 07-27-08, 10:28 AM   #18
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Thanks for all the help guys, def gonna weight out a few options you guys have me.
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Old 07-27-08, 01:27 PM   #19
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It looks like from the picture that the bike has v-brakes. If that is the case then a road brifter won't work without some type of travel agent to compensate for the different pull.
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Old 07-27-08, 01:43 PM   #20
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dvon1981,

I am in the same position you are. I feel I also need a road bike after I bought my Trek 7.2 FX just 4 months ago. I added bar ends for the same reason you stated. That helped but still didn't "scratch my itch". I to toyed with changing bars, components etc... but it seemed to be more trouble than it was worth.

I say go buy yourself a road bike. That's what I am going to do. After riding the Trek Pilot (which felt the same as my FX) I decided on a Trek 2.1. I pick it up next week. Buy the best components you can afford so you "out grow" this one too. You might just want to keep the Sirrus, it is a nice bike and you might like to have it around for casual rides.

Either way have fun.

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Old 07-27-08, 01:51 PM   #21
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It looks like from the picture that the bike has v-brakes. If that is the case then a road brifter won't work without some type of travel agent to compensate for the different pull.
Well spotted, I was about to say that :-)

I'd like to suggest a combo of bar-end levers and tektro RL-520 brake levers, or siwching the v-brakes for mini-v or cantilever brakes.
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Old 07-27-08, 02:27 PM   #22
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You've run across a problem that haunts every new cyclist...buying too little bike to 'get your feet wet'. Everyone does it. If they don't, they get called poseurs or (incorrectly) Freds by the green eyed crowd

Without going an looking up the numbers, I'd day converting this bike to a drop barred road bike is something of a fool's errand (as are most conversions). If you go with STI (8, 9 or 10 speed), you'll need to change the shifters. Nothing else needs be changed (no matter what people tell you) but even that will be somewhat expensive depending on what level of components you buy. Shifters (STI) will cost around $200 to start (Sora) but expect to pay more. You'll need handlebars ($40 - $75), brakes ($35 to $60 a wheel), cables ($40) and tape ($20). That's pushing $440 at a minimum. Plus, assuming that you can't do the work yourself (being a newbie), you'll have labor added to the cost at around $45 per hour. I'd estimate about 2 hours...maybe 3. You are will on your way to a substantial percentage of a new bike by that time.

Better to just keep the Sirrus for commuting and buy something else for fun. Resale on bikes, even fairly new ones is pretty low. You'd be lucky if you could much more than $400 for the bike.

Think of this as one of life's expensive lessons. Buy as much bike as you can afford...you'll outgrow it slower.
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Old 07-27-08, 04:15 PM   #23
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I have me newish GT Hybrid. I would like a Surly LHT. Is my GT worn out? No. So, I'm putting bak a little every payday and OT I get. I'm also holding off til I get my weight down to 225 also. Sort of like a reward thing.

At 285, I'm at 290 right now and 6' 2", and would keep on trunking with your bike til you get down , and stay down, for awhile. I know others have/do ride a roadie at a higher weight, but I also hear the horror stories of bent wheels, back hurting, and other weight issues.

It would be nice to be able to buy the "perfect" expensive bike at first, but most folks can't.

I would just get your bike comfortable and ride the hell out of it til it falls apart, you get down to a lower weight, or you save up the money.

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Old 07-27-08, 09:09 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10 Wheels View Post
If your bike Fits you, just Change your bars. Then you will have a road bike.

It looks like a nice bike. on the web site.

http://mikesbikes.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1282

Can you post a photo of your actual bike?
Changing the bar can be done, it just that it is quite a lot of effort. I've converted my Jamis Coda flatbar into a dropbar, when I finished with it, the only thing left original was the frame
The whole process took me a couple of month trying to find the right components that was on special.
A photo of the finished result below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0085_small.jpg
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Old 07-27-08, 09:29 PM   #25
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Changing the bar can be done, it just that it is quite a lot of effort. I've converted my Jamis Coda flatbar into a dropbar, when I finished with it, the only thing left original was the frame
The whole process took me a couple of month trying to find the right components that was on special.
A photo of the finished result below.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...0085_small.jpg
I was Only talking about changing the bars. I did a change on a moutain bike.
Flat bars to Drop bars.
20 minutes total time for me.
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