Wogster

I'm posting this here, because I am clyde...

Do suspension forks lose their stiffness over time, it seems a lot easier now to push the fork, then it did a few months ago...... Wondering what to do now, I need to replace the fork, the left crank arm, the chain, and maybe cassette. I may try to coax this bike through until fall, as it is, then rebuild it over the winter, if I can find the right parts, cheap enough,

Right now it's a mountain bike being changed into something more roadish.....

I would like to swap out the whole crank for one with larger chain rings (42/32/22 for 48/38/28), and swap the flat bars for trekking bars, to give more hand positions, the point of debate is, do I try to find an older road bike somewhere, and work on that instead? Maybe get someone to weld the fork in place to stop it's motion....

st0ut

I thought suspension had a lock out feature?

mesasone

If you are capable of doing it yourself, wouldn't a new solid fork be cheaper than welding your old one?

Also, I don't know much about suspension forks, but don't some of them require some kind of pump to maintain their stiffness? I'm pretty sure I've seen "suspension pumps" out there, but never really payed much attention to them.

Hill-Pumper

My thought on this is, why try to make something into what it is not made to do. You just end up with a compromise that is not good at anything in many cases. That is just me of course. I tend to like my things maximized for whatever I am using them for. I have both a road and mountain bike, but I do see the value of having that is duel purpose. So, that being said, I would say find a used road or touring bike to fix up and keep your mountain bike as it is for when you need it for rougher terrain.

-Devil-

depending on the kind of fork (if it has springs or bushings for the suspension) then yes they can be worn out esp with a heavier weight on em (most are made for people in the 150 range) ...

some do have lockout ... but the lockout still lets it move some on a hard enough impact...

Mr. Beanz

Yup, all kinds, Eleastomer inserts, springs, hydraulics, you name it. Mine is a Duke that requires a suspension fork pump. Litte buggers are expensive (the pump). I pump mine up once a week when I'm riding it regularly. Instruction manuals have different psi setting for different weights.

Rear suspensions can differ too. I had a friend with an older GT, old style suspension. He lost or brokethe elastomer block broke. He was having a hard time finding a replacement. Not sure if he ever did.

bautieri

And here I thought you were posting on this forum because you enjoy our company.

Springs wear out due to metal fatigue, I would consider looking into a solid fork if your willing to have it welded shut. It would probably cost less especially when you consider this won't be a run of the mill iron on iron weld, different materials require differnt processes and supplies which can get quite costly. Beanz may be able to fill us in on the details as I believe I read somewhere he used to work in an iron mill. Could be wrong.

Tom Stormcrowe

You're definitely better off getting a suspension corrected nonsuspension fork that trying to weld the old suspension fork. You'll ruin the heat treating of the aluminum tubing or steel tubing and have a weaker fork for your trouble. Look at the Surly fork.

Sounds to me like a good excuse for a bike upgrade, in honesty.

Gonzlobo

Give me a break. A mountain bike shock coil isn't going to wear out due to metal fatigue until it's severely overstressed (and I bet it wasn't). Jeez, the 'advice' here is useless sometimes.

* Elastomers do wear out (and especially harden in winter months).
* Air shocks do lose air, but to pump up once a week is excessive.

My Marzocchi Bomber *was* made for a 150# guy, so I had it upgraded for a 215 pounder and it works fine.

Mr. Beanz

It was a steel company but in a coating process.

-Devil-

not all places can or will upgrade a fork that takes springs ... i have one on my bike, that the spring will not 'uncompress' to it's orig height ... because i was 260ish when i started riding it and i didn't go easy ... now it has almost 1" of free-play in the movement before it engages ... and it will compress much easier ...

but of course the place i bought it froms response is 'oh you are just to fat, time to buy a new fork' ...

Mr. Beanz

Well according to the instructions provided with my Rockshox Duke, the psi for a rider of 220 lbs is 180 psi. I check the pressure as I always do wether it be the shocks or tires. Tires don't retain the 120 psi over night, therefore I fill them before every ride to acquire proper inflation.

As far as the shocks, it seems to need topping off about once a week. According to the instructions, a rider of my weight should ride at 180 psi. I check it, if it's low I fill to rec'd psi. If you know better, than the engineering dept at Rockshox need you!

Wogster

I haven't used it as a mountain bike in about 2 years, something to do with 40 somethings not bouncing, but breaking instead, and off road riding leading to a lot more unplanned dismounts then I am used to,

Hill-Pumper

Fair enough, as a 40 something myself that gave up riding dirt bikes (motorcycles) years ago for the same reason, I understand. My mountain bike is an older solid fork model that I have ridden 30 miles on the road at times. Your idea of putting different bars is a must for any sort of distance riding on the road . Still, you asked about the option of getting a used road bike in your original post. So, I was just stating that I thought you would be happier with the end result by going that route.

Mr. Beanz

Solid fork is refered to as a rigid fork in bike lingo.

Hill-Pumper

Hmmmm.... I thought that a Rigid fork was a eating utensil used by plumber's ...

wrk101

I would flip the bike (sell it) and buy one more suited to your needs/wants. You could end up putting a fair amount of $$ into it, while you could find a used older road bike, probably for close to what you get for your mountain bike.

Wogster

Your probably right, although I likely wouldn't sell it, I would need to replace the left crank arm regardless, and will probably do the chain and cassette, sooner rather then later. Applying the BF-C&A rule, that the number of bikes required is the number you have plus one, I might just put some CX type tires on it, and turn it into a foul weather bike. That depends though on other factors, like whether I can find a road bike that fits, and doesn't need a lot of work done on it.....

bautieri

Like this post right?

So tell us then, why did you have your shock beefed up? If there was no chance of you over stressing the stock setup then why not leave well enough alone? Heck there was never a chance for it to be damaged or wear out right? I feel silly now for spending so much money at Napa.