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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 08-12-08, 07:12 PM   #1
Stujoe
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Tick - tick, tick - tick. Uh oh!

Well, I heard a little noise a couple of times last Friday when I pedaled but I thought it might be the pedals or something. Looked at it real good and lubed everything up over the weekend and it seemed fine. Yesterday I heard it again a few times on the way home. Today I didn't hear anything this morning but it was clicking really good this afternoon.

It is definitely the BB and, after reading on The Internets, apparently this isn't uncommon with Truvativ Power Spline BB I have after 1000 miles or so. And I have a bit over 1200 on it. And, guess what? After reading on The Internets, I found out my crankset will only fit on that proprietary style BB.

I guess my options will probably be to get the same BB online for $20 plus shipping and have the LBS replace it for $25 (I doubt they stock this BB) or have them replace the BB and crankset for ?????

I am actually more worried about how long I am going to be without my bike more than anything else while I get it fixed. My baby is sick and needs a doctor! lol
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Old 08-12-08, 07:47 PM   #2
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Well, I heard a little noise a couple of times last Friday when I pedaled but I thought it might be the pedals or something. Looked at it real good and lubed everything up over the weekend and it seemed fine. Yesterday I heard it again a few times on the way home. Today I didn't hear anything this morning but it was clicking really good this afternoon.

It is definitely the BB and, after reading on The Internets, apparently this isn't uncommon with Truvativ Power Spline BB I have after 1000 miles or so. And I have a bit over 1200 on it. And, guess what? After reading on The Internets, I found out my crankset will only fit on that proprietary style BB.

I guess my options will probably be to get the same BB online for $20 plus shipping and have the LBS replace it for $25 (I doubt they stock this BB) or have them replace the BB and crankset for ?????

I am actually more worried about how long I am going to be without my bike more than anything else while I get it fixed. My baby is sick and needs a doctor! lol
What you should probably do is pull the cranks, remove the BB, lube the threads and reinstall it, put the cranks back on and see if that fixes it. 1000 miles on a BB is a little (okay a lot) on the low side (cartridge BB's should be good for over 10,000 miles). Also, check your chain-ring bolts, sometimes a loose chain-ring bolt can make a similar noise. There are actually quite a few things that can make a similar noise, check the cycling gospel according to St. Sheldon page on noises
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Old 08-12-08, 08:05 PM   #3
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I tightened everything up as far as cranks and chainrings, pedals. Pretty much everything that could be turned by al allen wrench, screwdriver or crescent wrench got checked for tightness.

I don't have a bottom bracket tool otherwise I would try that. Not even sure what kind I would need for that type of BB.

Maybe I will get lucky when I take it in and it will just need to be regreased and tightened. I will keep my fingers crossed because on MTBR.com, a lot of the reviews said it failed after a year and/or 1000 miles with the same sounds I am hearing.
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Old 08-12-08, 08:36 PM   #4
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Wow. That sounds kind of like the sound that I have been hearing lately.
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Old 08-12-08, 09:06 PM   #5
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I had my bike (Trek 7.3FX) at the LBS tonight. I am a bit over 900 miles and have the same issue. The tech indicated that the BB might be going out. I asked him about the miles and he said the same - they can start going out this quickly.

I find it hard to believe myself. Is this due to lower quality components? I find it hard to believe that metal components would wear out faster than the tires, brake pads, etc.
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Old 08-12-08, 09:37 PM   #6
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I tightened everything up as far as cranks and chainrings, pedals. Pretty much everything that could be turned by al allen wrench, screwdriver or crescent wrench got checked for tightness.

I don't have a bottom bracket tool otherwise I would try that. Not even sure what kind I would need for that type of BB.

Maybe I will get lucky when I take it in and it will just need to be regreased and tightened. I will keep my fingers crossed because on MTBR.com, a lot of the reviews said it failed after a year and/or 1000 miles with the same sounds I am hearing.
One thing you should do, is contact the manufacturer of the crank, see if they have a special warranty or replacement program on this part. There were, when the splined cranks first came out, some where they used smaller then normal bearings, and they had problems with faster wear. The solution was the newer external bearing bottom brackets and cranks, which might be the way to go, if you like the splined interface. The question then is whether it changes the chainline or not.....
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Old 08-12-08, 10:26 PM   #7
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My 7200 started clicking around 1400 miles. Now at 2140, seems like 2 clicks per revolution. Doesn't seem to be any slop or tightness in the bearings. I'll ride it till those clicks turn into one final clunk.
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Old 08-12-08, 10:38 PM   #8
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Even though you're positive it's the BB did you check the chain and rd? I thought the bb was going but it wouldn't click without the chain. Turns out the powerlink was the culprit.
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Old 08-13-08, 06:11 AM   #9
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I had my bike (Trek 7.3FX) at the LBS tonight. I am a bit over 900 miles and have the same issue. The tech indicated that the BB might be going out. I asked him about the miles and he said the same - they can start going out this quickly.
I find it hard to believe myself. Is this due to lower quality components? I find it hard to believe that metal components would wear out faster than the tires, brake pads, etc.
FInd another bike shop. 900 miles is way way way too early for a BB to go bad. He is either lying or an idiot.

FYI my Hallowtech II has 13,000 miles on it and it is still going strong.
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Old 08-13-08, 11:34 AM   #10
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I had the same issue. I removed the crank and BB and lubed the BB. Nice and quiet now.
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Old 08-13-08, 12:13 PM   #11
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I had the same issue. I removed the crank and BB and lubed the BB. Nice and quiet now.

I am getting more encouraged. I am going to take it into the LBS and if it is just loose and needs to be regreased, I will let them do it and buy the tools and grease so I can do it next time. If they tell me the BB is bad, I will just buy the tools and do it myself - grease or replace.
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Old 08-13-08, 01:53 PM   #12
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Its a pretty easy job, especially if the BB is a sealed unit
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Old 08-13-08, 04:55 PM   #13
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I am getting more encouraged. I am going to take it into the LBS and if it is just loose and needs to be regreased, I will let them do it and buy the tools and grease so I can do it next time. If they tell me the BB is bad, I will just buy the tools and do it myself - grease or replace.
What happens in the shop, often, is that the unit makes the noise, they replace it, and the noise goes away, the logical conclusion is that the unit was bad. When in reality if they pulled it, and then reinstalled the original unit, the noise would have gone away just the same.

As for grease, you just need to grease the threads when installing a cartridge unit, the type of grease depends on what the thread and frame materials are, the LBS can recommend one. The grease is more to make it easier to get it tight and to make it easier to take apart later on, grease helps to keep the metal from corroding, especially if the cup (the part that threads in) and the frame are different metals. Steel and Aluminum for example that corrode together can require heavy duty equipment to get apart again, and the heavier the equipment needed, the higher the chance that one or both parts will be ruined in the process. Some BB cartridges use a plastic cup, where grease can attack the plastic, on those you do not use grease, you just tighten it down until the plastic breaks, and replace the cup with a metal one
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Old 08-14-08, 02:19 AM   #14
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My 7200 started clicking around 1400 miles. Now at 2140, seems like 2 clicks per revolution. Doesn't seem to be any slop or tightness in the bearings. I'll ride it till those clicks turn into one final clunk.
Mine was very clcking as well around that time, but I got about 6,000 miles out of it before it became totally annoying.
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Old 08-15-08, 07:42 AM   #15
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It annoyed me from the first tick. I am so used to the bike being so silent that I hate any unnatural sounds. lol

I am also, probably unwarranted, worried about it getting loose and messing up the frame or threads down there. I am sure I am too overprotective of it but I fix stuff for a living and I don't like to let things that are not right go for very long.
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Old 08-15-08, 09:28 AM   #16
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If it gets loose that's when thread damage can start. If there's no play it's still probably fine.
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Old 08-15-08, 09:57 AM   #17
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I called the LBS I wanted to take it to and asked if they re-grease and tighten the bb during a tune up and they said they inpect it during the tune up and if it 'needs to be replaced', which he said is 'more than likely', that is, or course, extra. I got the feeling from the phone call that no matter what, it was going to 'need to be replaced' so I am just going to buy a bb tool and some grease. I already have a crank puller.

It is the only thing I have never done as far as bike maintenance so I am going to try it first. I need to learn how to do it anyway because I don't want to be taking it in every two to three months to have it done since I am putting a lot more miles on it now that I am commuting.
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Old 08-15-08, 04:52 PM   #18
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"...Some BB cartridges use a plastic cup, where grease can attack the plastic, on those you do not use grease, you just tighten it down until the plastic breaks, and replace the cup with a metal one ..."

--too funny!--

I also had the click. LBS fixed the old BB for $20. Because of this experience, despite moving, I still drive 30 miles to them every time, because I know they will do go work for a fair price.
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Old 08-15-08, 06:03 PM   #19
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I went to the 2 other LBS's in town looking for a bottom bracket tool and some grease. First place looked to just sell used and vintage bikes that they fix up but they did not have a bb tool. If I ever need parts for an old bike, they might have some though.

The second place, which looked to sell new bikes as well as rent U-hauls bluntly told me that they have no tools to sell. So, it is off to The Internets. So much for helping the local economy. I did pull the cranks and regrease them with the grease I had leftover from the Schwinn rebuild and will ride the bike into work on Monday while I wait for a BB tool.

If I ever need a bike shop, I am going to have to bite the bullet and drive the 30 miles each way across the river and go back to the place I bought the bike. I also know my next bike will not be bought locally but across the river also.
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Old 08-15-08, 10:05 PM   #20
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Make sure it's not a pedal- another potential clicker.
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Old 08-18-08, 04:07 PM   #21
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Well that was about the easiest job I have ever done on a bike. lol I was expecting all sorts of pieces and stuff to be involved. It took all of about 20 minutes.

Took out the bb, cleaned everything, regreased it and put it back together. Rode it around the block and it was quiet. I will find out for sure tomorrow on the commute.

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