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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 12-10-08, 08:11 PM   #1
jesspal
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Finally got my road bike, CAAD9 7

I got the good news last night, that my bike would be here this afternoon. The bike fits great, I think the shop did a good job getting everything right. The guy that has been helping me at the shop seemed to pay attention to all the details, that in my short experience know about. It is a christmas gift so i was only able to take it on a short 8 mile ride today. It is gonna get some getting used to but it felt great.

I was able to easily sprint up to 25mph on this bike, it give great bursts of speed when you push it. On my MTB I would max out at 20mph. I feel cool riding the bike too and that counts for a lot lol.

I am not sure how the brakes should work on a road bike, but the ones on mine don't seem to have my stopping power. They are tektro's, i'm used to stopping instantly on my MTB. Is this typical or something that I should bring up when I take the bike back for it's first tune up.

This was my first ride on a road bike, I had the chain pop off twice. I think it was because I had the gears crossed in a way the bike does not like. Small front gear with little back gear and vice versa. The second time the chain came out was when I kinda paniced at a stop light getting my foot out of the pedal. I kinda yanked harder then i think i needed to.

anyway here are the pics.





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Old 12-10-08, 08:19 PM   #2
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Congrats....nice bike. If your ever in Broward give me a PM and will get together for a ride. I do Griffin Rd from Flamingo to the FTL airport, two laps around it, to Dania Beach and back. Just over 45 miles. Leave on Saturday mornings around 8:00am if your interested. 18-20 mph average depending on the wind.
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Old 12-10-08, 08:32 PM   #3
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I will go to broward just to ride lol, i'll give you a pm after x-mas when i have more access to the bike lol. I want to get a little better feel for the bike, and then i'll be ready. I want to do the 100k tour de cure in february in broward.
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Old 12-10-08, 08:50 PM   #4
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Regarding the weak brakes, I had the same experience when switching to a road bike from a mountain bike. My road bike also has inexpensive Tektro's, and I've assumed that they have less stopping power because the brake pads have less surface area. Perhaps caliper flex is the real reason. I am also a big guy, 6'4", 270.
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Old 12-10-08, 09:36 PM   #5
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Nice bike.
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Old 12-10-08, 10:57 PM   #6
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I also have Tektro brakes on my road bike...I am 6'3" 270 and have similar stopping problems. Hopefully someone with a different kind of caliper can chime in...or suggest a good brake pad.

Anyway, that is a beautiful bike! Congrats!!
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Old 12-11-08, 12:16 AM   #7
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Congrats on the new ride. She is sweeeeet!!!!
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Old 12-11-08, 02:21 AM   #8
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Pant, drool, want , want, pant, pant......

Err, I likey!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would keep an eye on the Bay and maybe look for some 105 or Ultegra brakes, or ask the LBS what it would take to upgrade. Before I did that though, it might just be the cheap OEM brake pads. Some Kool Stops might be in order to save the day.

Pant Pant, Drool Drool.............
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Old 12-11-08, 03:21 AM   #9
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About the so called poor braking: it isn't the brakes, but your perception of good brakes. On a road bike you are usually going faster then an MTB and the tires have less rolling resistance, both require a longer stopping distance. You have less tire on the ground to stop the bike, and probably better hubs. Bike tires are about rolling resistance, not traction. The contact patch on a 700 x 23c tire is smaller then a US dime.
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Old 12-11-08, 08:12 AM   #10
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Nice bike! I wish I had been patient and waited to get my CAAD9 because I like the 09 paint options much better than the 08! I have the R6 with Tiagra brakes and I did notice they are not as strong as the brakes on my MTB, but they still work well. I think its done intentionally because it seems to be much easier to look up the tires (especially the rear) than it was on my MTB because of the decreased tire contact area with the road. I've heard bad things about the Tecktro brakes, so I would definitely look into upgrading those if a different set of pads doesn't solve the problem. Also, you shouldn't have problems with the chain coming off, period. . . Your bike shop needs to adjust the front and rear DR as it sounds like they don't have the limit screws set correctly. Or you can research how to do it yourself, its pretty easy and it's nice to know how to make some adjustments without relying on the shop.
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Old 12-11-08, 08:14 AM   #11
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Nice bike! I wish I had been patient and waited to get my CAAD9 because I like the 09 paint options much better than the 08! I have the R6 with Tiagra brakes and I did notice they are not as strong as the brakes on my MTB, but they still work well. I think its done intentionally because it seems to be much easier to look up the tires (especially the rear) than it was on my MTB because of the decreased tire contact area with the road. I've heard bad things about the Tecktro brakes, so I would definitely look into upgrading those if a different set of pads doesn't solve the problem. Also, you shouldn't have problems with the chain coming off, period. . . Your bike shop needs to adjust the front and rear DR as it sounds like they don't have the limit screws set correctly. Or you can research how to do it yourself, its pretty easy and it's nice to know how to make some adjustments without relying on the shop.
I was thining that it was probably just me getting used to the road brakes, i'll look into upgrading. I'll bring the bike to the shop tomorrow and let them know about the chain coming loose as well. So far they have been very helpful.
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Old 12-11-08, 08:14 AM   #12
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Use both brakes at the same time.
Have your bike shop add a Chain Checker, and put in a Master Chain Link.
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Old 12-11-08, 08:25 AM   #13
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Nice bike...welcome to the cannondale family I just bought a Synapse 6 with the full Tiagra groupset. How do you like the saddle on the CAAD? The one on my Synapse is a torture device..
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Old 12-11-08, 08:28 AM   #14
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I too have tektro brakes on my road bike running 700 x 23's. Thanks for that interesting bit of trivia DieselDan, smaller than a dime eh? In addition to all the points pointed out above it could also be a matter of leverage. When you hit your brakes are you on the hoods or are you in the drops? If you squeeze from the top of the hoods your hand does not have the leverage that it does when your grabbing at the end of the lever like you would if you were in the drops. Even with my tektros I have no problem locking my rear tire up and I have no doubt should I grab the front hard enough I will go over, or down to the side if I don't hold the bars straight. But yes, road bike brakes are a world of difference from the stopping power of mountain bike V and discs.

Bice bike BTW, very sharp and just look at that those grins. Many happy miles man, enjoy the new steed.
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Old 12-11-08, 08:41 AM   #15
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yeah when i'm in the hoods, the brakes are harder to engage. I was thinking when I am in the drops, which i didnt' ride on first day it will be easier because i have much better leverage.

the chain thing bothers me but im sure it will be addressed appropriately by the LBS
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Old 12-11-08, 09:06 AM   #16
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Nice bike...welcome to the cannondale family I just bought a Synapse 6 with the full Tiagra groupset. How do you like the saddle on the CAAD? The one on my Synapse is a torture device..
I have heard bad things about the seat, i'm gonna give it a little while and decide what i'm gonna do.
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Old 12-11-08, 09:45 AM   #17
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Nice looking bike, is that a Aireone saddle? If it is I think you'll like it.
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Old 12-11-08, 10:04 AM   #18
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I am not sure how the brakes should work on a road bike, but the ones on mine don't seem to have my stopping power. They are tektro's, i'm used to stopping instantly on my MTB. Is this typical or something that I should bring up when I take the bike back for it's first tune up.
Let me as a seemingly stupid question: how do you know the brakes don't seem to have any stopping power?

Braking on a road bike is very different from braking on a mountain bike. In my experience, this is mostly due to the huge difference in tires size and the corresponding difference in traction.

My current road bike has SRAM Red brake calipers and levers. My last bike had Ultegra SL calipers and Ultegra levers. Both of these braking systems would allow me to lock either wheel with a minimum amount of hand pressure. When coasting to a stop, can you get the wheels to lock? If so, then your brakes have adequate stopping power.

What you might not have is adequate traction to slow the bike down. As DieselDan reports, the contact area between the tire and the ground is much smaller on a road bike than it is on a mountain bike. In my experience, it's impossible to get a road bike to stop as quickly as a fat tire mountain bike. If you can't manage to lock your wheels with your current setup, you may need to have your brake calipers or brake levers adjusted. You may be able to improve stopping distances by changing brake pads (e.g. to Kool Stop "salmon" colored pads) or using a softer tire that has more traction (e.g. one meant for racing). You may also need to work on your braking technique.

Chances are you don't need new brake calipers or brake levers. Both of these components are pretty simple; it's difficult to produce a product so bad that it won't let you lock up the wheels. Upgrades will buy you reduced weight, easier setup/adjustment, better modulation and maybe increased durability but not necessarily more stopping power.
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Old 12-11-08, 10:06 AM   #19
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I understand now that it is just the way the brakes on a road bike function. This basically being my first ride on a road bike I was not sure what to expect. Now knowing better I will learn to adjust.
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Old 12-11-08, 01:39 PM   #20
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My stock brakes were not the best either, but got best performance by making sure they were set at the rec'd distance from the rim. 3 mm(?), about the thickness of a penny. Seems really close but if the rims are true, no problem. Also if the rim is not straight, the brakes don't work well on an uneven surface. Alos make sure the rim is centered between the brakes/calipers. If ou're off to one side, it can affect the power.

Easily centered by turning the little screw on top of the caliper arm. Tension can be set by tuning the barel adjuster at teh top of the caliper (where the cable meets the caliper). Easy fix and no need to take to the LBS.

The chain? One problem can be the crosschaining you mention. If you're in the midring and all the way to the inside, you are better off going to the small ring and finding a cog more towards the center. Many don't realize that some of the gears are repeats on triples. A gear combo on the midring can be matched by finding the combo on the small ring so there is really no need to crosschain. Works more efficiently if you use all the gears front, mid and small.

Some dopey people think it's unmacho to use the small ring. Prety silly since, like I said, the small can be matched with the rear to equal the mid ring gear.

In your case, you were on the samal front ring and the samll in the back. YOu needed a bigger gear. SO you should have swithed to the middle ring, then a bigger cog in the rear.

It's all about finding a siliar gear inch on each ring. An example.

You were in the small ring (32) and small cog(25). this equals 72 gear inches (from my lil book of gears) but you were crosschained!

You should have been in the middle ring(42) and a cog closer to the center of the cog (16). This equals 71 gear inches which is almost 72 like the combo above. The 1 gear inch difference, you will not feel hardly at all, but it will keep your chainline straight and less of a chance of throwing the chain.

When you learn how to properly swithc gears, then if it flies off, you need to set the limit screws. The LBS can set the screws all they want but if you don't switch properly, it won't help.

A good tip is to chain the rear to a gear near the center before switching. Thes are called "transition cogs". Lessens the risk of throwing the chain. And since you are switching to an easier or harder gear, shouldn't affect your pedal pressure or stroke too much.

Use all your rings on the triple for more efficient shifting and riding.
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Old 12-11-08, 02:13 PM   #21
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Thanks for the advice, the bike is a double. I am assuming the same principles apply, nevertheless my LBS said to bring the bike in and they would make a couple adjustments. I will then ride again and check out the changes. I think this is just an excuse to get my wife to let me ride the bike again before xmas
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Old 12-11-08, 02:25 PM   #22
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Thanks for the advice, the bike is a double. I am assuming the same principles apply, nevertheless my LBS said to bring the bike in and they would make a couple adjustments. I will then ride again and check out the changes. I think this is just an excuse to get my wife to let me ride the bike again before xmas

YUP! Remember, on a new bike comes new cables. So they break in and lose tension bigtime, even after a few miles. Then maybe again after a couple of months, hence the 90 free tuneupe!

Don't be surpirsed that the shifting will change along wiht the brake pressure once the cables start to break in.
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Old 12-11-08, 03:04 PM   #23
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Thanks for the advice, the bike is a double. I am assuming the same principles apply, nevertheless my LBS said to bring the bike in and they would make a couple adjustments. I will then ride again and check out the changes. I think this is just an excuse to get my wife to let me ride the bike again before xmas
Florida+not ride again until Xmas? YOU CANNOT BE SERIOUS!! (in a John McEnroe-type voice.) Congrats on the new ride... she's a beauty. I would not think your chain should jump like it did with a double... think about having LBS check to see if chain is perhaps a link too long? And +1 to the Kool Stop salmon pads. Oh, and be sure your rims are free from grease and goop on the sides where the pads contact them.
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Old 12-11-08, 03:20 PM   #24
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I'm gonna ride again tomorrow lol. I talked to the bike shop and they said bring it in, without any hesitation and that they would make appropriate adjustments. The guy I been dealing with sounded like it would not be a problem.

Thanks everyone for the compliments, the bike is pretty incredible and the difference is amazing. The bike is so responsive i really love it.
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Old 12-11-08, 03:41 PM   #25
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That's a great looking bike! And you are in Florida. I am jealous! Have fun!!
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