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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 05-12-09, 01:13 AM   #1
Big Fat Paulie
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Fat Paulie wants a road bike.

I have the Trek Mtb but to tell truth I want to return to road bikes. At 350+ can anyone give me some good recommends what to look for in a fat man's bike.
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Old 05-12-09, 01:28 AM   #2
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I have the Trek Mtb but to tell truth I want to return to road bikes. At 350+ can anyone give me some good recommends what to look for in a fat man's bike.
CAAD9 with 36 spoke Velocity Deep V's for the wheels, or the Specialized Allez with the same wheelset, both are Aluminum fames, or the Surly LHT if you want a steel frame. The frame isn't really going to be an issue unless you go after a superlight race frame made from unobtanium, such as Scanium Alloy.
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Old 05-12-09, 02:23 AM   #3
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unobtanium.
Ha, I like that. Unobtanium. The good bikes, women, and money all seem to come in that material...
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Old 05-12-09, 02:25 AM   #4
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May go used on CL for this one...any ideas on some older wheels. Thinking 80's or something. As someone pointed out, the frame should be ok, the wheels will probably my downfall so as long as the frame is good I may just get some old stuff.
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Old 05-12-09, 05:45 AM   #5
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I had told myself I'd get a road bike when I got to 250-ish, but when I couldn't get a cash refund for the Yakima rack that wouldn't fit, I went ahead and had them order a CAAD9-7 52cm in Patriot Blue. Gonna have to put it on layaway if/when it comes in, and besides which, despite them claiming it was in stock in the C-dale warehouse, or so they said it said on their computer, I've not gotten an email yet. Been 3 weeks now. Sooo......I got a feeling about this one. I might not necessarily make 250 (305 right now), but I'll get some of the ways there before it all works out.

Its more or less gonna be a project bike of sorts....Project Blue, I'm calling it. First thing I'll do is get a set of Mavic Open Pro rims/Ultegra hub wheelsets and spoon some Conti 4000's on it - the OP/Ultegra setup has a bombproof reputation and probably isn't any heavier than the OEM hoops. Beyond that horizon, save up for SRAM Rival, a good light aluminum stem/bar combo, ditto the seatpost and who knows what saddle. Should be fun

I did a fast 12-13 miles down one of the MUP's yesterday, a fair number of bikes. I passed a few, and got passed by a few. It was good

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Old 05-12-09, 06:55 AM   #6
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May go used on CL for this one...any ideas on some older wheels. Thinking 80's or something. As someone pointed out, the frame should be ok, the wheels will probably my downfall so as long as the frame is good I may just get some old stuff.
A suggestion is to keep an eye out for early Trek or Canondales but be watchful about rear spacing and gears. Some of hte early ones were only spaced at 126mm. That's not a problem, except you will be limited to 7 speed with the original equipment. If you go CAAD 3 or 4 you will be better situated and could even upgrade later.

As far as older wheel sets go I eould say just make real sure you are at least 32 spokes if you can't find 36. If you get a good enough deal on the bike a good set of touring or tandem wheels isn't all that expensive and will give some good service and miles.
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Old 05-12-09, 07:08 AM   #7
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Do any of you guys have any experience with the new Raleigh Clubman in respect to clydes? I'm thinking of getting a road bike when I get down to about 350 myself and for some reason I'm smitten with this bike. Of course the wheelset would have to be replaced.
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Old 05-12-09, 08:15 AM   #8
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I personally ride a Specialized Allez. Started out at 380, down to 317 (as of this morning). I did not replace the stock wheels, and they are still true and have had no spoke issues. I do not ride it like a mountain bike, though...no jumping curbs, and avoid big holes, but rumble strips and "normal" road unevenness...I ride in some industrial areas, big trucks are HARD on pavement. and have (knock on wood) never even flatted...of course, as soon as I say that, I will flat on the way home tonight.
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Old 05-12-09, 09:59 AM   #9
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Heck, I was thinking OLD school. Schwinn Varsity type stuff. That Allez looks lovely though. So too does the CAAD 9. I think I will stick with the older stuff for now though. I assume I can upgrade wheels on those older stuff. Q. 5'8 rider. Long torso, short legs. 28" inseam what size would that be I wonder. Might go to LBS like I'm gonna buy and get the info for used purchase.
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Old 05-12-09, 11:27 AM   #10
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Save the money on the frame, spend the money on the wheels. You can fit modern wheels on older bikes, just might have to update the cassette for the new hubs and if you end up with a 7 speed bike you will need a $5 spacer to make an older cassette work on a new wheel.. Going through this project on my Schwinn at the moment, nothing fancy.

The good news is that once you are Kinda Chunky Paulie the new wheels will still fit just fine on any new road bike as well.
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Old 05-12-09, 01:28 PM   #11
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Save the money on the frame, spend the money on the wheels. You can fit modern wheels on older bikes, just might have to update the cassette for the new hubs and if you end up with a 7 speed bike you will need a $5 spacer to make an older cassette work on a new wheel.. Going through this project on my Schwinn at the moment, nothing fancy.

The good news is that once you are Kinda Chunky Paulie the new wheels will still fit just fine on any new road bike as well.
Thanks SaladShooter.


Kinda Chunky Paulie....Doesn't have the same ring as Big Fat Paulie. I'll just stay Big Fat Paulie (in name only).
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Old 05-12-09, 02:05 PM   #12
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Wally World Stepping Up!!!



Corsa FA

Oh my goodness, Wally World is selling bikes in the ah heck see for yourself...


Lightweight Aluminum Road Bike
Assembled by the hands of skilled Italian mechanics to be tuned up and ready to ride right out of the box
$799.00
Was $875.00

Availability:
Online
Not Sold In Stores
Corsa FC Lightweight Full Carbon Fiber Road Bike

Assembled by the hands of skilled Italian mechanics to be tuned up and ready to ride right out of the box
$1,499.00 - $1,550.00

Availability:
Online
Not Sold In Stores
Corsa AC Lightweight Aluminum Road Bike with Carbon Fiber Seat Stays

Assembled by the hands of skilled Italian mechanics to be tuned up and ready to ride right out of the box
$1,199.00
Was $1,298.00

Availability:
Online
Not Sold In Stores


So the question is, when did Wally hire "skilled Italian Mechanics?"
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Old 05-12-09, 02:13 PM   #13
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I'm pretty sure there is a guy named Tony that drives a white Camaro at every Wal-Mart across the country.
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Old 05-12-09, 02:23 PM   #14
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Here is something I found Sports 500 Model by Panasonic-Japanese 1987
quality 10 speed
Lightweight alloy rims
27" tires
Shimano 10 speed Skylark Derailleur
Dia Compe brakes
1020 steel tubing & forks
3 piece crank
High pressure tires
Padded handlebars
Kickstand
Lock -no combination
Sports 500 Model by Panasonic-Japanese 1987
quality 10 speed


Guy wants 80 bucks for it, is it worth it? What do I need to look out for other then bent, cracked frame?
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Old 05-12-09, 02:36 PM   #15
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I'm pretty sure there is a guy named Tony that drives a white Camaro at every Wal-Mart across the country.

No doubt it is the same Tony, traveling coast to coast to assemble their fine Road Cycling Machines...
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Old 05-12-09, 02:39 PM   #16
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Condition of bearings and drivetrain. A 10 speed is going to be a nightmare to find modern components for if it needs anything changed out. I'm sure you can find used parts but their quality and age are questionable.

Wheels will require a little more finesse to work with a ten speed also. If you can find one that just needs a good tune up you're alright, but I'd probably keep an eye out, you can find a seven speed bike in similar shape with probably a better frame for the same money if you keep an eye out on the local CL.
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Old 05-12-09, 02:45 PM   #17
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Thanks, will go with your advice.
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Old 05-12-09, 02:52 PM   #18
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There's your first mistake...
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Old 05-12-09, 02:58 PM   #19
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Thanks

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Condition of bearings and drivetrain. A 10 speed is going to be a nightmare to find modern components for if it needs anything changed out. I'm sure you can find used parts but their quality and age are questionable.

Wheels will require a little more finesse to work with a ten speed also. If you can find one that just needs a good tune up you're alright, but I'd probably keep an eye out, you can find a seven speed bike in similar shape with probably a better frame for the same money if you keep an eye out on the local CL.
Can you suggest some models that have that and should be good deals...sub $200...
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Old 05-12-09, 03:19 PM   #20
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There are lots out there, and CL posters aren't always great at listing pertinent facts. Part of the art of finding a good CL bike is learning how to extrapolate what in the hell they're trying to say.

I'm partial to old Schwinns because they're a dime a dozen, tend to be rock solid, and minus a few obscure measurements are pretty standard. The shorter list is what to avoid, and those in my opinion (I'm sure to be flamed) are old european frames (French specifically). They tend to use proprietary measurements and are harder to add parts to. They're great bikes by themselves, but they don't play well with others.

That being said, Worldsports, Continentals, Paramounts, and Varsitys are sure winners, you can find the odd 90s Trek, Fuji, Univega, Raleigh, etc for great deals if you keep an eye out. The bikes of that era tend to be very similar to the casual rider, so pay more attention to condition than brand.

7 speed and up will be easy to upgrade. CL posters tend to post the number of speeds of the bike total, so keep an eye out for 14 or above (be wary of 18 though, as it is most likely a 6 speed triple).
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Old 05-12-09, 03:24 PM   #21
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Where are you located? Then some of experienced guys can look at CL for your area and see if there are any bikes that are good choices.
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Old 05-12-09, 03:41 PM   #22
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I am in Michigan....Southfield Michigan. Looking to emulate Mike Magnuson and do a 180. HA!
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Old 05-12-09, 03:49 PM   #23
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I will keep an eye out.
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Old 05-12-09, 04:04 PM   #24
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What do you think of this?

Up for bids is a raleigh capri road bike:

Mine has a 6 cassette rear rim so i am not sure if that is the original rim as other people who talk about theirs online say they have only 5 gears on their rim!

Not sure if it goes with it but i am calling it a 12 speed road bike as that is how many gears you have on this bike...

27x 1 1/4 tires. Tires ok, hold air. They have light appearances of or signs of cracks but should last some time to come, up to you if you want to replace them, but i would ride it, as is!

I bought and installed new cables all around and it shifts into every gear easily! Brakes pretty good but the front handle does stick slightly on the release of it.. All you have to do is nudge it or move it with your hand to release it and i dont think it effects the rim turning as the brake releases just the handle part sticks a little!

I did not change the brake pads as they have plenty of pad left!

410 all stell tubing.

Bike has raleigh printed all over the place on it, including each front fork the down tube the straight up tube the seat etc!

Also of note: The bike says or has printed on it, raleigh cycle company of america!!!

Printed on the rear rim hub seems to be the lettering joytel a 89 but the front hub has normandy 81 made in france so it would seem to me that one of these rims may not be original or perhaps both may not be orignal to the bike.

Last edited by Big Fat Paulie; 05-12-09 at 04:05 PM. Reason: more
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Old 05-12-09, 11:57 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by SaladShooter View Post
There are lots out there, and CL posters aren't always great at listing pertinent facts. Part of the art of finding a good CL bike is learning how to extrapolate what in the hell they're trying to say.

I'm partial to old Schwinns because they're a dime a dozen, tend to be rock solid, and minus a few obscure measurements are pretty standard. The shorter list is what to avoid, and those in my opinion (I'm sure to be flamed) are old european frames (French specifically). They tend to use proprietary measurements and are harder to add parts to. They're great bikes by themselves, but they don't play well with others.

That being said, Worldsports, Continentals, Paramounts, and Varsitys are sure winners, you can find the odd 90s Trek, Fuji, Univega, Raleigh, etc for great deals if you keep an eye out. The bikes of that era tend to be very similar to the casual rider, so pay more attention to condition than brand.

7 speed and up will be easy to upgrade. CL posters tend to post the number of speeds of the bike total, so keep an eye out for 14 or above (be wary of 18 though, as it is most likely a 6 speed triple).
You can find good deals on Varsities but you will have a severe stroke when you see the average price of a Paramount. That being said, if you find one in good shape for under $500, grab it!

You are going to probably want mid 80's and up for gearing. There are tons of bikes out there, low end Miyata (One Ten model), lower end Univega and Panasonic, and don't forget Centurion Ironman and LeMans. The average Raleigh, Nishiki, Fuji, Entry level Motobecane, etc etc. The list is long.

The nice thing about the older bikes is that you are almost assured of at least 32 spokes and have a decent chance at 36 spokes. Anything with friction shifting is a super easy tune up, and can be done fairly cheaply.
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