If you're using tire levers to put tires ON, stop. Don't ever do that. They are only for removing tires.
A 14-34 megarange on a new bike is a freewheel. I would ditch the hub and get a new freehub rear wheel.
But some people need to remember that replacing my 7 speed hub and wheel, also means replacing the associated contols and that's even more money. Until the contols fail, I'm keeping them because they work just fine.
Mind you, if a hub is in good condition, but the rim or spokes is a problem, it is possible to rebuild a wheel with new spokes and a new rim using the existing hub. Best solution there is to rebuild the hub, with new bearings. While it is apart you can make sure all the parts, like the axle are good. Later on, if you decide that you want a different hub, you rebuild the wheel using the existing rim on a new hub with new spokes.
Check with your local board of ed. and see if any bicycle mechanics courses are offered, that include wheel building. If you can learn to build your own wheel, then that's going to give you a darn good, long lasting wheel. Wheel building is beyond me, but I noticed my rear wheel is a little out of true, so I either need to take it in, or learn how to deal with it myself. I have some vacation coming up, in about 3 weeks, so I'll pull it off, remove the tire and tube and get out the spoke wrench, see how well I can do.
It's another excellent reason to get your wheels tensioned and trued, at the very minimum. A good builder will advise you about whether your rims are inherently true enough to be tensioned well. Peter White talks about this issue, saying that the priority is to have even and adequately high tension, rather than trueness to the last .005 or whatever inches.
This thread as a Q&A is a great idea, but it highlights that the answers to simple-sounding questions are not usually simple.
Mountain bikes regularly run tires that fall way outside of the numbers provided by Sheldon. For example, a Mavic XC717 rim is 17mm wide and you can easily run a 2.3" tire on one. That's a 58mm width. However those are high volume and low pressure tires. Most tires that wide are only rated to 60psi. But then most 32mm+ tires are rated to relatively low pressures too.
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That's great news, TKGN! Will look forward to seeing you up here - Steve really is a fine wheelbuilder.
As a Northwestern grad, I live a secret life anywhere other than Illinois and southern WI.
Why don't you find out what it would take to use your old shifters on a 7 speed cassette, which will fit a strong 8/9/10 modern wheel? You may be able to use it as or you may need to take the cassette apart and assemble it with new spacers.
Last edited by garage sale GT; 05-27-09 at 11:32 AM.
BTW, you don't need to use rim tape. You can use veloplugs from velocity. I have them on my deep-Vs. Very cool, light, and no issues with over 5000 miles
"how do you know you can't swim until you have drowned?"
I took the wheel in for retensioning and trueing last night. We'll see where that gets us. The front might have needed it too, but I'll do that when I get back if need be.
Got the wheel back today. Shop owner said if it doesn't hold after this, he'll build be a doublewalled wheel with the same hub for around $80. I will likely be taking him up on this if I can afford it after my next race and before the move.
Yeah, if this doesnt work out i will definitely do it. I might do it anyways but money is the key point.