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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 06-02-09, 07:18 AM   #1
Sir-Loin
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I need advice!!!

After an injury in the Army and 36 months, I am ashamed to say I am 100 pounds bigger than I was just a few years ago. I am however, commited to getting my body back to a healthy, respectable form and need some help from the Clydes and co.
I am 5'8" and 295, 5 years ago I was a solid 200lbs and a cardio machine....
I have a budget of very little. I can, in theory, afford about $450 but this is taking alot of creative book keeping. I found a 2000 17"Hardrock(bought new in 2005) for $150.00 in great shape. It is a chromoly and has no front suspension. All stock, hardly ridden. Some q's:

1. Is this a good price?
2. Is the frame worth upgrading later?
3. Would I be better buying a base model Hardrock from the LBS?

I am around Fairbanks, Alaska so a used MTB is slim to none, they seem to sell really fast. Any suggestions?
Thanks, James
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Old 06-02-09, 07:51 AM   #2
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After an injury in the Army and 36 months, I am ashamed to say I am 100 pounds bigger than I was just a few years ago. I am however, commited to getting my body back to a healthy, respectable form and need some help from the Clydes and co.
I am 5'8" and 295, 5 years ago I was a solid 200lbs and a cardio machine....
I have a budget of very little. I can, in theory, afford about $450 but this is taking alot of creative book keeping. I found a 2000 17"Hardrock(bought new in 2005) for $150.00 in great shape. It is a chromoly and has no front suspension. All stock, hardly ridden. Some q's:

1. Is this a good price?
2. Is the frame worth upgrading later?
3. Would I be better buying a base model Hardrock from the LBS?

I am around Fairbanks, Alaska so a used MTB is slim to none, they seem to sell really fast. Any suggestions?
Thanks, James
The frame and wheels should be fine if the frame fits you. If it does, jump on it. And get a helmet, possibly gloves as well.
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Old 06-02-09, 09:42 AM   #3
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Honestly, that sounds about perfect for you. You should test ride it to make sure it fits, but given your height, I think it should be close.
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Old 06-02-09, 10:17 AM   #4
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Thanks, I will give it a try before I look at the LBS. I guess I was more worried if this was an obsolete frame or if I can build a nice hardtail out of it over time with a nice fork, wheelsets, a front disc, ect....

I cant wait to hit the trails and get back into the game!
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Old 06-02-09, 10:51 AM   #5
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Gloves are a plus. Pearl Izumi makes a pair that is around 20 ish...nice, lightly padded, suede. Comfy.
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Old 06-02-09, 11:55 AM   #6
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Go for it. The non-suspended late 90's - early 00's steel mountain bikes from major manufacturers are nearly indestructible and are versatile machines. Many people are buying these bikes and converting them to very capable adventure touring rides, so this bike might continue to serve you for a long time in several different roles.
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Old 06-02-09, 04:41 PM   #7
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Thanks, I will give it a try before I look at the LBS. I guess I was more worried if this was an obsolete frame or if I can build a nice hardtail out of it over time with a nice fork, wheelsets, a front disc, ect....

I cant wait to hit the trails and get back into the game!
Bicycle frames are one of the few things where obsolete is a rarity, there are some obsolete French and Italian frames, that follow old French and Italian specifications. A good solid steel frame without rust can be rebuilt by updating components pretty much indefinitely. There are lots of road bikes that first saw service in the 1970's still on the road.

One thing to note, most bikes that come with a solid fork will pretty much have to stay with a solid fork, suspension forks generally require a different frame shape, with more space between the headset and the ground. For Clydes however cheaper suspension forks are overrated, you might find that a suspension fork that is Clyde friendly will cost more then the bike.

You want a bike that can accommodate a set of these also check out icebike.com If they can ride in the winter in Finland, no reason you can't in Alaska.
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Old 06-02-09, 06:09 PM   #8
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That old hard rock is perfect for you. It won't be worth upgrading like you are thinking, because it wont have disk tabs and all the new forks are 1 1/8" instead of the old 1 ". It is a solid ride though and replacement parts are still available if you tear it up.
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Old 06-03-09, 05:22 PM   #9
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The 17" frame turned out to be too tall and very uncomfortable geometry for my body type. Went to the LBS where I realized just about everything fits me funny in one way or another. I ended up putting an 08 Rockhopper with bb5 discs and in a 15" frame in layaway for a week($630 total, the same 09 was $780). I really like the lockout on the Dart 3 fork and the bike fits me like a glove. Cant wait to get out on the trails in 6 more days!!!!
Thanks for the help gang, I think I made a solid pick(even if the wife kill$ me for it!)
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Old 06-03-09, 05:23 PM   #10
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I am more worried about the -40 degree temps we get! I will ride down to 0 though with spikes!
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