Question for fellow Clydes on frame size
 

I am 45 years old and just started riding again after a 20 year break. I am 6' 5" and at present weigh 260 in "full battle gear". When I am in great shape I cannot get below 223 without being asked how long I have had cancer. I started riding a tandem with my wife but our schedules do not allow me to ride as much as I want or need. I have been reading active and past posts looking for the "right" choice in frame construction and size. I rolled around on a 61 mm Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5 and felt comfortable, and my local shop says they can get one in a 63 mm but I suspect it is a Carbon Six and not a Synapse. I have only rode mountain bikes, or uprights, but never a road bike and do not know what the right "feel" is supposed to be. What size frame and what construction will work best for me. I will be climbing alot. I know there are many things to consider, and I thank you for your wisdom...

I'm 39, 6'5" around 20lbs heavier and have a 94cm cycling inseam. My current road bike is a 63cm Caad 4 with a long thomson seatpost and a 140 stem. It "just" fits me. Cannondale does in fact, sometimes make frames outside their advertised size range. So, there might be such a thing as a 63cm Synapse. I wouldn't know however.

The right feel, if you're not accustomed to road bikes, will probably change or progress reasonably quickly as you adjust to the new riding style. If your shop is a reasonably good one, they should be able to get you set up with a decent starting fit. Chances are, that initial fit will "feel" odd. But, it's a starting point from which your body will adapt and from which you can also make small adjustments.

Construction is up to you. I'm an aluminum fan. But, despite my rantings about the failure mode of carbon, have and would also consider a carbon frame. Size is probably going to be your biggest issue. Cannondales 63's are more like a conventional 60x60 (stxtt) and are amongst the larger stock frames around. Anything with a sloping top tube will probably start to create seatpost length challenges or just look silly. Do you know your cycling inseam?

Climbing a lot? Start with a compact or triple crank if you think they're warranted. I ride a standard 39-53x12-27 with 180mm arms. The choice is going to completely depend on your strength and condition.

I'm in my early 40s, 6'7", 230 pounds with a 102cm inseam.

I'm a big fan of steel frames. I had a couple of 66cm Cannondale frames (2.8 and Caad 3) and found them both to be very whippy in the bottom bracket. Standing on the pedals would cause front derailer rub. They also rode like bricks compared to my lively steel frames.

I would recommend a custom steel or maybe titanium frame spec'd out to your size and weight. Stiff front triangle and head/steer tube with a fork and rear triangle compliant enough to give a nice ride.

Trek makes the 2.3 in a 64...

Soma makes a steel road bike frame in a 64cm and a 66cm size, see: http://www.somafab.com/extrasmoothie.html

Its a great frame at a bargain price. Your local bike shop will need to build-up the bike. I'm very happy with my Soma, see: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=470995

Michael

For hills I suggest a wide ratio triple, then choose a cassette which will take you up your toughest hill. This will allow you to use a closer ratios cassette which will give you the right ratios for normal cruising.

well since this is as good as any thread...
6'6" 34" inseam normal weight 250-/+10lbs goal 210lbs.
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been doing a little research... thought I might need go go for a 64cm... upon realization of my 34" (always thought it a 36" inseam)
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possible to get away with a 62 or 61cm frame?

PS... would love a custom Davidson Ti bike but cant justify at the moment... the debate rages steel or aluminum or carbon?

I can get by with a 61cm at 6'3" with a 33 inseam. I would guess you might be able to get it done, but i would really ask a bike shop and see if they would give you a good fitting.

Usually a good ballpark fit start point is a slight bend in the elbows while riding the hoods without placing too much weight onthe arms.

The handle bars should cover the front hub so that it's out of sight to the rider.

On a straight toptube frame, there should be about a handful of seatpost poking out of the frame. Not sure about a sloping top tube.

Shoeless foot , heel on pedal should be totally extended when the pedal is at 6 o'clock

Few start points.