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  1. #1
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    Little Clyde needs some new wheels.

    I am 230 Pounds and have began doing group rides that involve big climbs(by Kansas standards at least) and long and fast, albeit strait, descents. My current wheel set is heavy, and shedding spokes like non other. So, i am trying to decided between deep v's, fusions, or open pros laced to ultegra hubs. The open pros seem sufficient(and cheap!!!), but, i am open to other ideas. My main concern is a budget wheelset that i can trust not to kill me on pot hole riddled downhills.

    More importantly, as i think any of those options will work fine, who are some good retailers? BWW and PBike have great prices, but i am guessing are machine made to make them that cheap. Does that even matter so long as my shop checks them out when i get them? Who else can a clyde trust?

  2. #2
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    I've been very happy with my OP/Ultegra, but the most important point is to get some that were handmade by someone who knows what they are doing. I've also heard lots of good about the Deep Vs. I got mine from Colorado Cyclist and was happy with their work. If you get them handmade, you can get 36 spoke which is a bit stronger.

  3. #3
    foolishly delirious RatedZeroHero's Avatar
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    google Bill's Wheels
    he charges $60 labour per wheel and materials...
    is where I am looking

  4. #4
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    I'm in the same boat...220-225 lbs and the Alex wheels on my new Felt are just not the ticket. Looking for light strong and cheap

    -spence

  5. #5
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    Deep V's are definately heavier than OP's. No personal experience with the fusion's. If light is a priority I would lean toward the OP's over the Deep V's. If durability is the larger concern the Deep V's probably have a considerable edge. Personally, I come in at 125kg +/- or so, and have had pretty good luck with OP/Ultegra's laced 36, 3X, 14ga straight. Mr. Beanz hasn't had the same positive experience. With regard to hand vs. machine build, I feel that too much emphasis is placed on the qualities of hand built wheels. Only if the builder really knows what they are doing and spends a considerable amount of time stress relieving and retensioning will hand builts be inherently stronger. Machine built and lesser hand builds will simply require a more thorough retensioning after their initial break in, or two. At which point, both are probably pretty equal. At your weight, you could probably go with 32 spoke OP's or even a pair of some of the more robust low count wheels, although the latter will cost quite a bit more.
    Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.

  6. #6
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    I've been nothing but pleased with my Neuvation M-28's. I rode them all last season at 270# (sometimes a little more). They took all the abuse I could give them. No broken spokes after 4000 miles or so. Trued them once over the winter, but they didn't really need it much.

  7. #7
    Senior Member JonnyHK's Avatar
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    Kinlin 300 rims to a quality hub.

    Get a quality builder.

  8. #8
    An old newbie
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    +1 on the Neuvation M28 Aeros. I too was in the market for a new wheelset and settled on the Neuvations. Take a look at the 105 reviews of this wheelset at roadbikereview.com. Great price, quality product and great service. Mine were shipped less than 24 hours after I ordered them! Good luck.

  9. #9
    Gears? CliftonGK1's Avatar
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    I'm just a wee bit heavier at 240 and ride DT RR1.1 rims. Similar profile to the Open Pro, identical to the Alex DA16 profile. Double-walled mid-height, single eyeletted, 459g stated weight, 462g on my kitchen scale. That puts them 54g heavier per pair than the Open Pro, but the RR1.1 has the advantage in my book: Wear indicators.
    I killed my DA16 by warping out the bead seat from wearing the braking surface too thin, and I expect I will one day have a similar problem with the Open Pro. The RR1.1 has a wear indicator so you know how much braking surface is left on it.

    Depending on the type of climbing you're doing, you can lighten the wheel further with double butted or straight thinner gauge spokes. I rock straight 14g DT Champions on mine because I do a lot of standing up and grinding, rocking the bike from side to side. The Open Pro wheel I have with db 14/15 spokes feels "squishy" when I do that, the RR1.1 on straight 14g feels rock solid.
    The trade-off there is that the rigid feeling climbing wheel will also transfer every bit of chatter to the frame, while the db wheel can soak some of that road vibration up on its own.

    As for builders, PWC is one of the best online; but for wheels I'd look at your local shops first. Find out labour rates and get some opinions of who's the best, then go with them.
    Unless of course you plan to build your own, which IMO is the very best way to go.
    "I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
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  10. #10
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    I've been riding the BWW Mavic op with ultegra hub radially laced front wheel. They cost $195 and have been solid. I outweigh you by 30 lbs, I think you will be fine with a set like this.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkwentz View Post
    More importantly, as i think any of those options will work fine, who are some good retailers? BWW and PBike have great prices, but i am guessing are machine made to make them that cheap. Does that even matter so long as my shop checks them out when i get them? Who else can a clyde trust?
    I believe that Bicycle Wheel Warehouse hand-builds all of their wheels. They seem to do a good job: I bought a set of very cheap mountain bike wheels from BWW and build quality was much better than my set of Mavic Crossride wheels that cost twice as much! That said, they seem to be pretty busy these days; don't know if that impacts quality or not...

  12. #12
    Senior Member socalrider's Avatar
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    The DT Swiss RR 1.1's are very similar in specs to Open Pros but are definitely stiffer.. The Velocity Fusion or Mavic CXP 33 would be a good alternative to the heavier Deep V...

    The Fusions and CXP 33 are 25mm deep rim while the Deep V's are a 30mm deep rim..

  13. #13
    Banned. Mr. Beanz's Avatar
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    Wel this is what I dun dit!.. I can't afford to buy a new 'wheelset" everytime A wheel goes bad so I knock 'em out one at a time. Usually the first as it takes more abuse and likely to fail before the front.

    I first replace the rear on my Cannondale with a Deep V. Had it built after I found a 9 speed rear Dura Ace hub for $99. The rim was found on a clearance rack for $25. $25 for spokes and it's good to go....for a long time! $150!

    Months later, I built the front. I used an existing Ultegra hub, picked up the Mavic CXP33 for $70, spokes $25 and built it myself. $100 and it's good to go...for a long time!...I used the CXP up front caue it's a little lighter but still strong at 100 grams less than the V rim.

    I used a black Deep V in the rear, 32 spoke and a black Mavic CXP33 in the front. Looks like a set. Not much difference other than the depth and a sticker which can be removed.

    The Deep V's on my Lemond have over 20,000 miles now and still true to me! OH yeah, 230 lbs right now, the 20,000 miles on the Lemond were at 245 lbs.

    If someone says a Clyde can't climb on V's, more likely they are only running on 7 cyclinders!

    CXP up front, Deep V in the rear!

  14. #14
    Gears? CliftonGK1's Avatar
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    I'm still in shock over seeing that wheel stat, Beanz... 20,000 miles.

    That's around 3 rims for me, just from the wear and tear abuse of riding year 'round with sand and cinders on the wet roads for 9 months of the year.
    "I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
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  15. #15
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    Im 215 and have been rolling on Bontrager Race wheels for a few years. I got a good deal on the pair and really do like them. I do need to do a minor true-up on them about once a month or so. They are my summer wheel only and far from bullet-proof. I run my stock Alex Rims for winter.

  16. #16
    Banned. Mr. Beanz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CliftonGK1 View Post
    I'm still in shock over seeing that wheel stat, Beanz... 20,000 miles.

    That's around 3 rims for me, just from the wear and tear abuse of riding year 'round with sand and cinders on the wet roads for 9 months of the year.
    The wet weather makes a big difference IMO. We did a 20 mile descent (5000 ft) int the pouring rain ona forum ride. I had new brakes at the start of the ride. About .200 of pad left at the bottom of the hill.

    We are lucky and don't deal with the wet roads.

    But yup, 20,000 on the V's.

  17. #17
    another retro grouch Mr IGH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bkwentz View Post
    I am 230 Pounds... My main concern is a budget wheelset that i can trust not to kill me on pot hole riddled downhills.
    For strong wheels under a heavy load, there's no substitute for more material and ferrules. Mavic has a great line-up. IMHO, Open Pros are a little light for a 230lbs rider, esp if reliability/longevity is desired.

    Mavic Open Pro weighs 425gms

    Mavic Open Sport weighs 490gms

    Mavic 319 weighs 597gms

    If you want strong wheels, start with the Open Sports, cheap and strong. If you want bulletproof touring wheels that will work under all mountain conditions, go with the 319s.


    More importantly, as i think any of those options will work fine, who are some good retailers?...
    I replaced both my son's MTB wheelsets with wheelsets from BWW. Great prices, great build, I have been very happy.
    IGH's, Dyno Hubs, LED lights and old frames

  18. #18
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    Wow. The continuing level of input of the Clydes would embarrass the other forums. I have decided to go with some CXP 33's as they seem to have both price, availability, and positive reviews working for them. I would have gone with the deep v's for their bomb proofness, but I can't seem to find a steal of a deal on them. Everybody in town carries mavic.

  19. #19
    Senior Member jaxgtr's Avatar
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    I recently got some Velocity Fusions and put them on my CAAD9, the rims seem very stiff like the Deep V's I have, just a little lighter. I don't think I will have any issues with them. I've been very happy with my Velocity rims an I have a great wheel builder in town I can trust.
    Brian | 2013 Cannondale SuperSix 5 | 2014 Trek CrossRip Comp | 2003 Trek 7300
    Quote Originally Posted by AEO View Post
    you should learn to embrace change, and mock it's failings every step of the way.

  20. #20
    Banned. Mr. Beanz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaxgtr View Post
    I recently got some Velocity Fusions and put them on my CAAD9, the rims seem very stiff like the Deep V's I have, just a little lighter. I don't think I will have any issues with them. I've been very happy with my Velocity rims an I have a great wheel builder in town I can trust.
    A friend has the Fusion. I couldn't tell the difference between the V and the Fusion. I'd have to get the calipers to measure them to tell! They looked just as strong.

    I've seen the V's and Fusion online for $60'ish per rim. Good thing about learning to do it yourself. I could build a new wheel for about a hundred bucks!

  21. #21
    Senior Member socalrider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz View Post
    A friend has the Fusion. I couldn't tell the difference between the V and the Fusion. I'd have to get the calipers to measure them to tell! They looked just as strong.

    I've seen the V's and Fusion online for $60'ish per rim. Good thing about learning to do it yourself. I could build a new wheel for about a hundred bucks!
    The Fusions are 25mm deep and the Deep V's are 30mm deep.. The Cxp33 has the same specs as the Fusion, 25mm deep, just a fraction lighter than Fusions at 470 grams..

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