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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 08-25-09, 07:40 PM   #1
clydeosaur
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Rear Rim Issues

Hi guys/gals,

I'm 6'4 @ 240 lbs and ride a Trek hybrid. I've owned the bike for a year and some change. I've been very happy with the bike, but the rear rim is killing me. The factory rim (Mavic 550 perhaps?) would occasionally pop a spoke (at the rim). After 5 I decided to talk to the LBS about an upgrade. The showed me two rims. The better of 2 was the one I purchased (Sun CR18 700c). 2 weeks later I pop a spoke @ the hub. They replace it. Tonight, same thing. I'm losing patience/getting frustrated. I'm very careful how/where I ride. Is the rim not up to par? If it makes a difference, I ride 28mm tires @ 110 #'s of pressure.

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Old 08-25-09, 08:54 PM   #2
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How many spokes on that wheel?
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Old 08-25-09, 09:07 PM   #3
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The problem isn't the rim the tire or the spokes, it's the wheel builder! You are buying machine built wheels. They are quite often over tensioned. Once you've broken a number of spokes you might as well start over with new spokes because you've stressed the remaining ones.

Does your lbs know how to build a good wheel? If not you might want to start looking for someone who can. You can get good, strong wheels for not a lot of money. Just make sure they are built by someone who knows what they are doing!
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Old 08-25-09, 10:08 PM   #4
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Yup, the builder or even just the wheel guy at the shop. I bought an inexpensive set of rims at Performance. Believe it or not (so many dislike Performance shops), the wheel dude loosened then retensioned the rims. No problems at all from a $99 set of wheels.

I would think the shop knowing you have problems would do the same for you. If not, they suck!

Spokes breaking at the hub is a lack of tension problem. Even with a new wheel, you should take it back after 200 miles or so to be retensioned after the breakin period. If not,you are asking for trouble. That loctite and spoke prep stuff doesn't mean it doesn't need to be retensioned as so many shops will lead you to believe.
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Old 08-26-09, 05:31 AM   #5
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Clydes shouldn't buy wheels that are already made. They are most likely machine made and not well tensioned. You need to get wheels hand built by someone who knows what they are doing. Another option that might be cheaper is to buy a machine built wheel and then have someone who knows what they are doing loosen all the spokes and retension it.
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Old 08-26-09, 06:38 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by hammond9705 View Post
Clydes shouldn't buy wheels that are already made. They are most likely machine made and not well tensioned. You need to get wheels hand built by someone who knows what they are doing. Another option that might be cheaper is to buy a machine built wheel and then have someone who knows what they are doing loosen all the spokes and retension it.
Contradictory information, although the second part is exactly right.

Like Beanz, I've got a wheel from Performance. I threw it on my stand and tensioned/trued it up, and I've had no problems with it (aside from the fact that I just don't like double butted spokes very much).
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Old 08-26-09, 07:49 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Homeyba View Post
You are buying machine built wheels. They are quite often over tensioned.
I'd say just the opposite. Almost all of the machine built wheels I've seen are undertensioned. One of them was so undertensioned that the spokes still had bend to them

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Old 08-26-09, 08:09 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homeyba View Post
You are buying machine built wheels. They are quite often over tensioned.
Over-tensioning can break rims, but not spokes.
Breaking spokes is a symptom of under-tensioning.
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Old 08-26-09, 06:25 PM   #9
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Over-tensioning can break rims, but not spokes.
Breaking spokes is a symptom of under-tensioning.
I didn't mean to imply that was the problem with this particular wheel. That was just a general comment about machine built wheels. I suppose it could cause some confusion...
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Old 08-26-09, 06:56 PM   #10
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Wow! Thanks for the responses guys. To November - the wheel is a 36 spoke. So the general consensus is that it's not a bad wheel, but bad set up / build? Interesting. I have been looking around at other bike shops due to the way my problems have been handled (for the last few months). I hate to badmouth anyone, But each time I had the problem, the spoke was replaced & I was handed the wheel. The LBS said they would look into it and gave me an estimate of 10 - 20 bucks. So, I will let you know what the update is - and I think I'm going to tell them to eat the fee for fixing / addressing the problem.

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