Why I Don't Use Expensive Tires
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Coast, California
Posts: 3,370
Bikes: Colnago C-50, Calfee Dragonfly Tandem, Specialized Allez Pro, Peugeot Competition Light
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I wouldn't worry about it then! Ride the cheaper ones.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 178
Bikes: 2007 Schwinn Fastback Elite
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I didn't have any luck with Specialized Mondo Pro tires. They only lasted 500 miles or so. I expected more for $55. I'm trying the Armadillos now. So far so good (about 1000 miles). The Schwalbe Blizzards that came stock with my Schwinn were great. The rear lasted for about 1500 miles. Probably could have kept going but I started to see the lining in a few spots. I got nervous and swapped it out for the Specialized. The Schwalbe on the front got 4000 or so. I'm still using it on my extra set of wheels.
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marysville, WA
Posts: 463
Bikes: Trek Portland/Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo/LeMond Versailles
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I started the season on a new set of Gatorskins. They have around 1500 miles on them so far and they don't look anywhere near wearing out. Do you have an enemy who grinds your tires down when you aren't looking?
#30
Senior Member
I'm using gatorskin wire bead (ps: thanks to everyone sugeting folding bead has problems coz I was gonna get those next) since last November, 110 miles per week, flatted twice. I'm usng 700x23 and weigh 200lbs. Also carry heavy chain lock plus rucksack so an extra 18lbs or so. Tires show no wear so far.
They dont grip as well as krylion, especially in wet, but are a lot more puncture resistant, meaning it keeps me on the bike for longer. I'm gonna try some cheapo tires next to feel the difference.
Ps: Beanz, it sucks when people recommend a tire then on the next ride tell you they have a bunch of flats.
They dont grip as well as krylion, especially in wet, but are a lot more puncture resistant, meaning it keeps me on the bike for longer. I'm gonna try some cheapo tires next to feel the difference.
Ps: Beanz, it sucks when people recommend a tire then on the next ride tell you they have a bunch of flats.
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Coast, California
Posts: 3,370
Bikes: Colnago C-50, Calfee Dragonfly Tandem, Specialized Allez Pro, Peugeot Competition Light
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#32
Guest
Posts: n/a
Mentioned: Post(s)
Tagged: Thread(s)
Quoted: Post(s)
Besides the proper size, the only extra I look for in a tire is puncture resistance. Makes a tire cost about $5-$7 more, but its definately been a help in avoiding flats.
Just thinking here, but does anyone know is bicycle tire rubber can vary like car tire rubber? Hi-performace car tires usually use softer, sticker rubber. The hi-performace tires wear out faster, but they'll make a car handle better around curves and at higher speeds. Generic hi-milege tires use harder rubber compounds that make them last a lot longer.
Just thinking here, but does anyone know is bicycle tire rubber can vary like car tire rubber? Hi-performace car tires usually use softer, sticker rubber. The hi-performace tires wear out faster, but they'll make a car handle better around curves and at higher speeds. Generic hi-milege tires use harder rubber compounds that make them last a lot longer.
#33
Banned.
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Upland Ca
Posts: 19,895
Bikes: Lemond Chambery/Cannondale R-900/Trek 8000 MTB/Burley Duet tandem
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
3 Posts
Just thinking here, but does anyone know is bicycle tire rubber can vary like car tire rubber? Hi-performace car tires usually use softer, sticker rubber. The hi-performace tires wear out faster, but they'll make a car handle better around curves and at higher speeds. Generic hi-milege tires use harder rubber compounds that make them last a lot longer.
Last edited by Mr. Beanz; 10-17-09 at 08:24 PM.
#34
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 11,375
Bikes: '08 Surly Cross-Check, 2011 Redline Conquest Pro, 2012 Spesh FSR Comp EVO, 2015 Trek Domane 6.2 disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
6 Posts
Besides the proper size, the only extra I look for in a tire is puncture resistance. Makes a tire cost about $5-$7 more, but its definately been a help in avoiding flats.
Just thinking here, but does anyone know is bicycle tire rubber can vary like car tire rubber? Hi-performace car tires usually use softer, sticker rubber. The hi-performace tires wear out faster, but they'll make a car handle better around curves and at higher speeds. Generic hi-milege tires use harder rubber compounds that make them last a lot longer.
Just thinking here, but does anyone know is bicycle tire rubber can vary like car tire rubber? Hi-performace car tires usually use softer, sticker rubber. The hi-performace tires wear out faster, but they'll make a car handle better around curves and at higher speeds. Generic hi-milege tires use harder rubber compounds that make them last a lot longer.
__________________
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
"I feel like my world was classier before I found cyclocross."
- Mandi M.
#35
The Fred Menace!
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 331
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The Gatorskinz look like they were underinflated - that "squared off" look is pretty typical for the condition, as are the flats. I got my one flat on the Gatorskin when the tire was 15psi too low. It could be because you had a lot of weight on it - but I'm 320lbs, on a 30lb steel bike with 10 lbs of commuter-junk in my pannier.
You probably already know this, but as a big guy, make sure to check your tire pressure often, and with a gauge, not a thumb - modern "tough" tires like Marathons, Gatorskinz, Armadillos, Ribmos, etc, can feel full when they aren't anywhere near full. I used to be able to "guesstimate" tire pressure by feel pretty well, but I just can't anymore with the Gatorskinz.
You probably already know this, but as a big guy, make sure to check your tire pressure often, and with a gauge, not a thumb - modern "tough" tires like Marathons, Gatorskinz, Armadillos, Ribmos, etc, can feel full when they aren't anywhere near full. I used to be able to "guesstimate" tire pressure by feel pretty well, but I just can't anymore with the Gatorskinz.
#36
Senior? Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 271
Bikes: GMC Topkick mountain bike, Schwinn World Traveler, GMC Denali road bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm wondering if California uses a different compound in the roads out there, which may be causing premature tire wear, or if it's a heat thing.
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 6,882
Bikes: Trek Domane SLR 7 AXS, Trek CheckPoint SL7 AXS, Trek Emonda ALR AXS, Trek FX 5 Sport
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 767 Post(s)
Liked 1,741 Times
in
1,014 Posts
I've tried various tires, but ultimately, have found that the Bontrager Race Lite Hardcase last a long time and flats are almost non-existent. I got 2800 miles from my last set and only had to retire them as I had a brake pad out of alignment on my hybrid that ended up rubbing the side wall and causing enough issues that I did not feel safe on them. Otherwise I feel they had another 500-1000 miles. I don't race, so no real need to have high dollar tires. I use them on both bikes.
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Lakeside Resort in Central KY
Posts: 130
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My first set of tires were Conti GP 2000's which last me for 3K with no issues. I tried more expensive "racing" tires and absolutely could not feel any difference. When I go into my LBS for tires now my only criteria is that it be round. They set me up with some $17.00 Bontrager wire beads that perform very well. There is no spec or claim on these that certify puncture resistance but on inspection I have found multiple small wire embedded in the tread that caused no ill effect after pulling them out. After getting dropped by 20 somethings astride '80's era Schwinns one realizes that its really about the motor.
I jumped up from a 23mm to a 28mm on the rear and do enjoy the smoother ride.
I jumped up from a 23mm to a 28mm on the rear and do enjoy the smoother ride.
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 1,380
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Dang, I wish that I had read this post before I bought a folding-bead ultra gatorskin a couple of weeks ago. On the back, I have had better luck with ultra gatorskins than any other tires I've tried. I can use just about any tire on the front for 3500+ miles.
One thing that I have noticed, is that ultra gatorskins wear out a lot faster on roads that have been chip-and-sealed. Chip-and-seal has become very popular around here over the last year or so. That is where they put a thin slurry-type layer of asphalt on top of the road, and then use a steam roller to embed a healthy layer of a mixture pea-sized and smaller aggregates into it. It is an inexpensive way to increase the life of a road, but it rides rather rough (I notice a marked increase in effort to maintain speed), and wears out your bicycle tires a lot faster.
My last rear tire lasted about 1000 fewer miles (2000 miles versus 3000-3800 miles in the past), and I suspect that most of it is due to increase wear due to chip-and-sealed roads.
One thing that I have noticed, is that ultra gatorskins wear out a lot faster on roads that have been chip-and-sealed. Chip-and-seal has become very popular around here over the last year or so. That is where they put a thin slurry-type layer of asphalt on top of the road, and then use a steam roller to embed a healthy layer of a mixture pea-sized and smaller aggregates into it. It is an inexpensive way to increase the life of a road, but it rides rather rough (I notice a marked increase in effort to maintain speed), and wears out your bicycle tires a lot faster.
My last rear tire lasted about 1000 fewer miles (2000 miles versus 3000-3800 miles in the past), and I suspect that most of it is due to increase wear due to chip-and-sealed roads.
#40
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Northern Colorado
Posts: 1,380
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I forgot to mention, that for my commuter bike, I also prefer cheaper tires. I commute on an old mountain bike with no suspension, and slick tires. The latest version of the cheap city-slick tires with a kevlar bead by either performance or panracer do just fine ($12 - $15 range). I commute almost every day (drive car to work...1-2 days per month?), and can go an entire year without a flat tire.
My current set of performance city tires are about two years old. I also run with a tire liner in the back tire that I bought way back in the mid-90s.
My current set of performance city tires are about two years old. I also run with a tire liner in the back tire that I bought way back in the mid-90s.