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Thread: Custom stem?

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    Custom stem?

    Uber-clyde (300 lbs) just upgraded tires to Big Apples and saddle to B190...both great. Have tried various handlebars, including cruiser bars, and now Titec Hbar, but really need to get the stem up another 2 inches or so to take pressure off hands/wrists. Already put on a steering tube extension. Adjustable stem is all the way adjusted up. Wish the bike would take a quill but wishing ain't enough. Any suggestions for more height on a modern style stem?

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    Subjectively Insane MilitantPotato's Avatar
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    Wow, maybe hawk your current bike and get a cruiser off craigslist?
    Extension + 30* 120-130mm stem is about all you'll get without buying a new fork with an uncut steerer tube.

    I wonder how much stress having the bars up that high puts on the headtube?
    You've got a bike, so you gotta move.

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    The Left Coast, USA FrenchFit's Avatar
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    You're talking threadless stems, correct? Use a riser adaptor, they add 2.5 to 4+ inches depending on what you buy. Easy install, cheap and safe. You can find them on eBay. If you are talking threaded, then get a Nitto Techtronic, that can give you a ton of rise depending on which you get.

    As far as adjustible stems, I really think much of those at all, very clunky.

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    Senior Member bigvegan's Avatar
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    Are you on the right size bike?

    Maybe you need a set of high-rise / BMX bars.

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    Subjectively Insane MilitantPotato's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigvegan View Post
    Maybe you need a set of high-rise / BMX bars.
    Come to think of it, I ran into a guy who had a badly injured back using that setup. He said it worked perfectly for him. Bars where about mid chest.
    You've got a bike, so you gotta move.

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    Senior Member rykoala's Avatar
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    I too need my handlebars way up there to take pressure off my hands. I'm looking at the bars on this site, made by wald. Here's the one I happen to have bookmarked.

    http://www.bikeworldusa.com/product_...ebddc96136fccc

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    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Your trying to fix the problem in the wrong place. Tilt the nose of the saddle up to take pressure off hands, wrists, elbows and shoulders. Nothing radical, just enough to move your weight's distribution off your upper body onto your rear end. You can raise handle bars all day with infinite configurations, if you are constantly pushing your body weight back up onto the saddle, your hands, arms, elbows, and shoulders will hurt and you will hate cycling.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselDan View Post
    Your trying to fix the problem in the wrong place. Tilt the nose of the saddle up to take pressure off hands, wrists, elbows and shoulders. Nothing radical, just enough to move your weight's distribution off your upper body onto your rear end. You can raise handle bars all day with infinite configurations, if you are constantly pushing your body weight back up onto the saddle, your hands, arms, elbows, and shoulders will hurt and you will hate cycling.
    +1... Bars don't push up against your hands, your hands push down into the bars... and often because the saddle is set pointing down and your weight is sliding forward.

    Often, people will tilt their saddles down because they mistakenly think this will remove pressure from sensitive areas, but that is not how saddles are designed to work. And if a level saddle at the proper height is uncomfortable, try a different saddle.

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    Senior Member cyclist2000's Avatar
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    Get a new fork, don't cut the steerer. this should give you about 3 extra inches, if that isn't enough add your steerer extender again. When I got my new bike I told the guys at the shop not to cut the steerer so I can set it up really high. you could also get a salsa moto ace stem that has the 130 degree rise.
    I don't do vintage, I bought them new, rode them, kept them. Now they are just old bikes
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/sets/72157623483647522/

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    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarDasse74 View Post
    Often, people will tilt their saddles down because they mistakenly think this will remove pressure from sensitive areas, but that is not how saddles are designed to work. And if a level saddle at the proper height is uncomfortable, try a different saddle.
    Saddle tilt and nose angle are a personal preference. The nose of my saddles are noticeable tilted up, but nothing radical like a freestyle or trials bike. I know one pro rider, who has a few stage wins in the Tour de France and one day in yellow, that rides with his saddle pointing just slightly to the right! Getting fitted by a professional is always a good thing to do.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cyclist2000 View Post
    get a salsa moto ace stem that has the 130 degree rise.
    ?????????

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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselDan View Post
    Saddle tilt and nose angle are a personal preference.
    True, but nose pointed far down (except for a tri bike) is often a recipe for hand/wrist problems.

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    I can't add anything to the ergonomic solutions offered here, but I do have some experience with pressure on my hands. For me, it seems to be a problem of core strength. I have a long torso and a big belly, so there is a lot of weight to hold up, and my hands get sore. As I add power in my abs my hands feel better and better.

    Crunches and planks. Bend elbows and straighten wrists. good luck.
    __________________________________________________________________
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    DRF aka Thrifty Bill wrk101's Avatar
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    +1 Raise the nose of the seat.

    +2 Sounds like frame size is too small if you want that much rise on the stem. How much seat post do you have showing?

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    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarDasse74 View Post
    True, but nose pointed far down (except for a tri bike) is often a recipe for hand/wrist problems.
    I said that back at #7.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

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    Senior Member Herbie53's Avatar
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    This thread would be way better with some photos... anybody have some pics of how they have / had their bikes set up to manage a more upright position?
    "Today me will live in the moment, unless it's unpleasant, then me will eat cookie." -Cookie Monster

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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselDan View Post
    I said that back at #7.
    ... and I agreed with you at #8.

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    what kind of bike, saddle, and riding style?

    If you are trying to make a road bike more of a cruiser first level out the saddle... if needed lower the whole seat to get the bars up relative to your seating position. Since you already have an adjustable stem all the way up I would assume that your seat could be lowered to the point of you having a negative drop.

    This would only be ok for cruising around and may be uncomfortable for long durations.

  20. #20
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    Put the bike against the garage door. Take a picture and we can give you some better ideas. Try adding ergo grips and using padded gloves. I have good luck with Pearl Izumi gloves and Specialized Grips.

    This is what I did when I started:



    I have since lowered the stem angle and sunk the stem further into the head tube. I'd get an updated picture, but that would involve slogging through 12 inches of snow right now. If you want me to get you the stem info, let me know.



    BTW: I know the frame is too small for me...working on that.
    Last edited by MikeWinVA; 02-05-10 at 10:44 PM. Reason: badly speling

  21. #21
    Senior Member cyclist2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarDasse74 View Post
    ?????????
    the Salsa site list the degree bend on the moto ace mountain 1-1/8 as 130, I am assuming that is from vertical.
    I don't do vintage, I bought them new, rode them, kept them. Now they are just old bikes
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/bustercrb/sets/72157623483647522/

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