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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 04-22-10, 02:08 AM   #1
socalvws
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Road Bike recommendations for a 285 lb. Clyde

I've been riding my mountain bike regularly for 3 months now and would like to consider the move to a road bike. My concerns are about a bike that will handle my weight. I've already bent a wheel on my MTB and don't want that to happen on a new bike. I mainly ride a local paved trail that is mostly flat but does have some hills that kick my butt. I'm also trying to rehab an injured knee so most of my time is in the seat. I am hoping to be ready to ride my first century by next June and would like to do it on the new bike.
I appreciate any feedback.
Thank you for your time,
Tim
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Old 04-22-10, 05:44 AM   #2
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Hi,

I have ridden a standard "racy" road bike when I was as heavy as 290 pounds. Unless you get some exotic you don't have anything to worry about. My advise is don't let your weight factor too much into any aspect of what bike you want to get except for saddle choice. The saddles that tend to come on road bikes usually need to be thrown away or given to tiny little girly men.
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Old 04-22-10, 06:31 AM   #3
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What's your price range?

And before anyone else says it, I'll say it: Talk to your local bike shop. If you have a shop you're comfortable with, and you don't mind asking dumb questions, they can help steer you towards something that fits. I say this even though I'm one of the types that would rather research everything online, hit 'buy it now' and wait for FedEx to show up.

However, last fall I was in your predicament -- 260lbs and looking for first road bike to ride in a Tour de Cure century attempt this summer.. I have a shop by work that I'm very comfortable with and went there and started asking questions. They showed me a Bianchi Steel Frame that was from 2009 stock and I got a helluva deal on a bike I didn't know existed ... yet met all of my criteria for what I wanted.
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Old 04-22-10, 08:09 AM   #4
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More than anything you need to be concerned about the build of the wheels. 99% of the bikes manufactured today will easily hold your weight but the stock wheels that come on those bikes won't. There are literally tons of bikes that you can consider from all spectrums of the price range. However, regardless of the bike, you will have to spend about $400 to get a custom built wheelset. Tell us more about what ($) you where planning to spend on a bike.
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Old 04-22-10, 08:37 AM   #5
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I myself wouldn't spend $400 on a wheelset. I'd order a 36 hole hub from Jensonusa ($103) and a 36 hole Deep V rim ($56) then have my shop build it up for $50 (?), maybe $20 for spokes(?).

Have a rear wheel built up for a little over $200. Use the stock wheel til it dies then you have a better stronger backup wheel ready to go that will last for years!

The stock front should last for some time and usually much cheaper to replace. Worry about the front later, in the meantime if you see a sale, pick up some parts cheap.
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Old 04-22-10, 08:56 AM   #6
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Look at some touring bikes, they should already have wheels with 36 spokes and are designed for carrying heavier loads.
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Old 04-22-10, 09:00 AM   #7
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Ignore all the 36 hole wheel nonsense, unless you're planning on carrying a camelbak loaded with iron, the wheels that come with whatever bike you get will be fine, and if they break in a few years get some more.
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Old 04-22-10, 09:04 AM   #8
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Ignore all the 36 hole wheel nonsense, unless you're planning on carrying a camelbak loaded with iron, the wheels that come with whatever bike you get will be fine, and if they break in a few years get some more.
Sure!....if you do 500 miles a year

I may have misunderstood the OP but the dude has already bent his MTB wheel riding mainly paved trail.

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Old 04-22-10, 10:31 AM   #9
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Ignore all the 36 hole wheel nonsense, unless you're planning on carrying a camelbak loaded with iron, the wheels that come with whatever bike you get will be fine, and if they break in a few years get some more.
I disagree - 36 spokes gives the rim that much more strength than a 32 spoke rim would have. I've been breaking spokes and cracking rims for years. I'm "only" 240 pounds but ride hard and fast. Just broke a spoke on my new 36 spoke touring bike rim...In addition to the 36 spokes, you should upgrade to high quality Swiss spokes for the rear rim. They are less likely to break on you.
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Old 04-22-10, 11:17 AM   #10
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+1 Vintage touring bikes are a really nice choice. They hold their value well too. I personally prefer a nice lugged steel vintage bike. I have several, its pretty much all I ride.
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Old 04-22-10, 03:17 PM   #11
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I myself wouldn't spend $400 on a wheelset. I'd order a 36 hole hub from Jensonusa ($103) and a 36 hole Deep V rim ($56) then have my shop build it up for $50 (?), maybe $20 for spokes(?).

Have a rear wheel built up for a little over $200. Use the stock wheel til it dies then you have a better stronger backup wheel ready to go that will last for years!

The stock front should last for some time and usually much cheaper to replace. Worry about the front later, in the meantime if you see a sale, pick up some parts cheap.
Nah, I wouldn't have a wheelset built up for $400 either. It makes much more sense to spend $103 for a 36 hole hub, $56 for a 36 hole Deep V rim, $20 on spokes and $50 to have the shop build it up the FRONT wheel and, then, drop $200 for a rear wheel . . . . wait a minute . . . . that equals $429. Since when is $429 better than $400, especially when it's being paid out?

Lucy! You have some 'splainin to do!
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Old 04-22-10, 03:42 PM   #12
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Nah, I wouldn't have a wheelset built up for $400 either. It makes much more sense to spend $103 for a 36 hole hub, $56 for a 36 hole Deep V rim, $20 on spokes and $50 to have the shop build it up the FRONT wheel and, then, drop $200 for a rear wheel . . . . wait a minute . . . . that equals $429. Since when is $429 better than $400, especially when it's being paid out?

Lucy! You have some 'splainin to do!
Uhh, the front will last longer than the rear. Maybe not fail at all. I'm not sure where you shop but the fornt hub is always much cheaper than the rear, that's if he ever needs one.
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Old 04-22-10, 04:25 PM   #13
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i'm 265 and riding an aluminium cyclo-cross bike with stock *aksium* wheels. these wheels are entry level 20 spoke and have been so far so good (crosses fingers) so i think as long as you not jumping off kerbs or anything like that the wheels should be ok on whatever you get. the more spokes the better though so maybe have a look in craigslist for a racing bike that already comes with 36's.

how much you willing to spend? only my opinion but you get more for your money second hand. on the other hand bike shops can be a real help though too for advice and stuff

how did you bend the mtb wheel - doing something stunty?
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Old 04-22-10, 04:57 PM   #14
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32 or 36 hole is fine on a deep v rim.. I had a 36 hole rear aerohead built a couple months back and it was 950 grams with straight gauge spokes / brass nipples..36 hole doesn't always equate with super heavy..

Some people are hard on there equipment and if you have already bent a rim, you may fall into that category. Go with a heavier rim like the deep v and build it up sturdy on 32/36 hole rim..
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Old 04-22-10, 05:04 PM   #15
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Im 299lbs and have been riding a Specialized Roubaix for the last month - rock solid except for a "blow-out" on the back tire last night. I also have the Mavic MP3, $20 wheel insurance - no quibble and good for two years ....

See Link:
http://www.mp3-mavic.com/mp3details.asp

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Old 04-22-10, 07:14 PM   #16
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Uhh, the front will last longer than the rear. Maybe not fail at all. I'm not sure where you shop but the fornt hub is always much cheaper than the rear, that's if he ever needs one.
The items you quoted still came to $429. I did write wheelset, not hub.
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Old 04-22-10, 09:38 PM   #17
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The items you quoted still came to $429. I did write wheelset, not hub.
Your post #11 is totally confusing, paying 229 for a front then 200 for the front? I don't think anyone can make heads or tales out of that mess, confusing aint it?

Either way, I said the rear is the concern, the front may last. If you can't understand that........

Now go price parts and tell me if the front will add up to $200, since you don't understand that the front hub is much cheaper than the rear and will not add up to $400 for the set. Maybe if you see it for yourself you'll understand that it is CHEAPER!!!.

I can find a front hub for half the price of the rear.
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Old 04-22-10, 09:50 PM   #18
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Your post #11 is totally confusing, paying 229 for a front then 200 for the front? I don't think anyone can make heads or tales out of that mess, confusing aint it?

Either way, I said the rear is the concern, the front may last. If you can't understand that........

Now go price parts and tell me if the front will add up to $200, since you don't understand that the front hub is much cheaper than the rear and will not add up to $400 for the set. Maybe if you see it for yourself you'll understand that it is CHEAPER!!!.

I can find a front hub for half the price of the rear.
Okay, you quoted prices for a front wheel in your first sentence and then added the price for a rear wheel in your second sentence.

"I myself wouldn't spend $400 on a wheelset. I'd order a 36 hole hub from Jensonusa ($103) and a 36 hole Deep V rim ($56) then have my shop build it up for $50 (?), maybe $20 for spokes(?).

Have a rear wheel built up for a little over $200. Use the stock wheel til it dies then you have a better stronger backup wheel ready to go that will last for years."

Combined, your front wheel costs $229 and the rear wheel costs $200 that is a wheelset. Right? Therefore, your wheelset costs more than $400.

No rolling eyes icons or other jeuvenile behavior. If that's the best you can (sarcasm wise) do when interacting with another person you have a lot of growing up to do. I'm done.
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Old 04-22-10, 11:08 PM   #19
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Okay, you quoted prices for a front wheel in your first sentence and then added the price for a rear wheel in your second sentence..
Your reading comprehension need to be improved, go back and take another try at my post. ...Maybe you can show me where my first setence says "front wheel"? Sorry, you were done before you started!

Let me help you:

buy the parts for a wheel (1st setence) build up a strong rear wheel as back up so that you have one when your stock rear wheel dies (second setence)

3rd sestence......the front wheel should last some time, worry about it later, in the meantime pick ups some parts cheap so that you are prepared when the fornt wheel does die on you.

BTW, all I did was post my opinion on my course of finding a good wheel. You felt the need to attack my post, looks like you need to grow up!

Last edited by Mr. Beanz; 04-22-10 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 04-22-10, 11:41 PM   #20
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I see you are local in so cal.. I have 2 rear wheels available, both 36 hole.. I switched over to Campy 10 speed on all my road bikes so these are collecting dust. I had my friend Mark at Comp Edge tension and true them up so they are rock solid..

wheel 1: Mavic CXP33 - 105 hub, works with Shimano 8-9-10 speed groups.. Straight gauge dt spokes
wheel 2: Mavic Open Pro - Swiss Edco hub - works with Shimano 8-9-10 speed groups.. Lightweight sapin spoke..

Drop me a pm if you are interested, I am located in Upland..
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Old 04-23-10, 12:06 AM   #21
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wheel 1: Mavic CXP33 - 105 hub, works with Shimano 8-9-10 speed groups.. Straight gauge dt spokes
wheel 2: Mavic Open Pro - Swiss Edco hub - works with Shimano 8-9-10 speed groups.. Lightweight sapin spoke.. ..

That would have been my next suggestion, as I usually post in these type threads. Other riders will sometimes give you a hub or a wheel not in use.

I know SoCal aint as nice as I am, but just about a month ago, I gave another rider in need a 105 Mavic rear wheel. A Rock solid wheel!

Next suggestion would be to later try making your own. Last wheel I put on my Lemond cost me $15 to build. I had the hub and the rim sitting in the closet. I had tried to give the hub away but nobody would take it, so I used it....$15, not bad! ...GOt about 3,500 miles on it now.

Not bad, Ultegra 600 hub with a Mavic CXP30 for $15!.........."REAR WHEEL"
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Old 04-23-10, 01:54 AM   #22
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yeah i agree with building your own, might be daunting at first but with a good guide like sheldons here it is a doddle

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

hardest part i found was getting the right size spokes!! i made a set of mtb wheels for bout 80 quid. deore hubs, sun mammoth rims and they look great and ride like a dream and the feeling of self satisfaction is something else
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Old 04-23-10, 07:56 AM   #23
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yeah i agree with building your own, might be daunting at first but with a good guide like sheldons here it is a doddle

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

hardest part i found was getting the right size spokes!! i made a set of mtb wheels for bout 80 quid. deore hubs, sun mammoth rims and they look great and ride like a dream and the feeling of self satisfaction is something else
Good thing is that once you pick p that hub for $103, you're good to go for years and years. After 20,000 miles on my last build, I picked up a V and spokes for $75. That wheel should give me another 20,000 for $75. ....Less the hassle of traveling to a shop, drop off, pick up, and wonderign if it's a quality build.

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Old 04-23-10, 10:01 AM   #24
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Tim,
Lot of GREAT advice here on wheels. Just by reading the thread I see the possibility of being my own "wheel builder" - exciting. Don't let minor misunderstandings muddy the waters of attaining your goal - a healthy lifestyle by riding a great bike/wheels!
magohn
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Old 04-23-10, 10:50 AM   #25
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A 36 spoke wheel with 30 mm deep rim (nothing special) will last you years. Spend another $60 on a park spoke tensiometer, and do periodic checks that spoke tension is even all round and up to spec (100-110 kg on drive side).
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