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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 07-17-10, 05:16 PM   #1
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tired of hitchhiking - need new rear wheel instead of fixing (another) spoke?

it happened again today, the worst sound on the planet when you know you just broke a spoke.

this time was much worse than last time when I was just commuting and called my wife for a pickup. today I was 2/3 of the way through a 75-mile ride, pretty much in the middle of nowhere, when I hear the 'pop'. walked my bike up the hill when someone took pity on me and drove me 15 miles to a bike store.

I asked them to fix the spoke, but I'm wondering whether that is a good idea given that I've broken a spoke previously. should probably take the $40 for the repair and put it toward a new wheel.

in the interest of not wasting your time, I've read through the FAQ and done a search on appropriate wheels for folks like me - currently 275#

My Specialized Roubaix has Mavic Open Sport wheels, so I've been looking at others' recommendations on Mavic wheels. I've read good things about the Aksium and Krysium, but both of these look like 20-spoke rims and I think the Open Sport had 28. That makes me nervous as I understand more spokes = more stable.

I guess I could go for one of the Bontrager wheels -- I've had a thousand miles on the Bontrager Nebula wheels on my Trek Soho commuter, without any problems - and make it a Frankenbike, though I'd rather not.

thoughts? I'd really rather not spend the $$ for a custom wheel if I can avoid it. thanks.

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Old 07-17-10, 06:33 PM   #2
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Get one hand built. I got tired of this happening with production wheels. I'd break a spoke, go back to the shop & they'd fix it to tell me it wouldn't happen again. Problem never went away so I upgraded to their "best choice" wheel. I broke spokes on that one even quicker. I found a shop known for wheel building. They have built the rear wheels on my last two road bikes & I have yet to break anything. Problem solved & worth every cent (not to mention really not any more expensive than the production wheels anyway).
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Old 07-17-10, 06:43 PM   #3
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hitchhiking is good for the soul.

I've done it out to Idaho, up to Maine, around Martinique, around Scotland, and down the French Coast.

Cycling's not bad, either.

Also, why not fix AND also start saving for a spare? One with more/fewer spokes than what you have, depending on what you want to have on hand.
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Old 07-17-10, 08:27 PM   #4
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Get one hand built. I got tired of this happening with production wheels. I'd break a spoke, go back to the shop & they'd fix it to tell me it wouldn't happen again. Problem never went away so I upgraded to their "best choice" wheel. I broke spokes on that one even quicker. I found a shop known for wheel building. They have built the rear wheels on my last two road bikes & I have yet to break anything. Problem solved & worth every cent (not to mention really not any more expensive than the production wheels anyway).
This goes a ways back, but I recall having a problem breaking spokes on my rear wheel back when my old hybrid was new, in 1997. Fortunately it was still under warranty. After replacing several spokes, they had to re-build the wheel, or so they told me. They must have done something as I haven't had another busted spoke in 12 years.
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Old 07-17-10, 09:28 PM   #5
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Get yourself some Velocity Deep V wheels built up by a good wheel-builder. Here, for example:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/velocity.asp

I had my Deep Vs built by them and they have stood up to tons of abuse in the thousands of miles I have put on them. They haven't even needed any truing in that whole time. 28-40 spoke count options.
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Old 07-18-10, 06:20 AM   #6
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Get yourself some Velocity Deep V wheels built up by a good wheel-builder. Here, for example:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/velocity.asp

I had my Deep Vs built by them and they have stood up to tons of abuse in the thousands of miles I have put on them. They haven't even needed any truing in that whole time. 28-40 spoke count options.
yeah I had looked at his website but then scratched him off the list after his lose-weight rant: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wheels.asp. color me sensitive...
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Old 07-18-10, 06:41 AM   #7
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yeah I had looked at his website but then scratched him off the list after his lose-weight rant: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wheels.asp. color me sensitive...
I don't think he is far off the mark.. We see people every week on this board that want to ride there 20 spoke wheels and are scratching there heads wondering why they are popping spokes.. We have many posters that tell them to get 28-32-36 hole wheels and they scoff at the very notion of doing such a thing..
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Old 07-18-10, 06:42 AM   #8
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I started popping rear spokes on my new GT... after the 3rd trip into the shop and discussing things with the shop owner we decided he would rebuild the rear wheel using double butted DT spokes. Got over a couple hundred miles now, with no issues!
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Old 07-18-10, 07:11 AM   #9
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I don't think he is far off the mark.. We see people every week on this board that want to ride there 20 spoke wheels and are scratching there heads wondering why they are popping spokes.. We have many posters that tell them to get 28-32-36 hole wheels and they scoff at the very notion of doing such a thing..
maybe, but I'm happy to ride whatever will work and have lost 30# in the past six months thanks to cycling. I don't want attitude from someone saying "don't be surprised when I suggest you go on a diet and call me back in a few years" (direct quote from the website).
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Old 07-18-10, 07:19 AM   #10
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Once you pop a spoke, it often starts a chain reaction because for the time you rode with the broken spoke, you overstress the spokes around it that take up the slack. So then the next one goes, then the next one. At some point you just gotta get a new wheel. For your weight, a locally handbuilt wheel is probably your best bet.
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Old 07-18-10, 07:24 AM   #11
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Once you pop a spoke, it often starts a chain reaction because for the time you rode with the broken spoke, you overstress the spokes around it that take up the slack. So then the next one goes, then the next one. At some point you just gotta get a new wheel. For your weight, a locally handbuilt wheel is probably your best bet.
Yes, thank you dohickie - luckily I was aware of this because I had killed an earlier wheel by continuing to ride after breaking a spoke.

yesterday I hopped off the bike immediately when i heard the pop to avoid further damage. I'm inclined to repair this wheel for when i am (much) lighter and get a hand built wheel in the meantime.

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Old 07-18-10, 07:45 AM   #12
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yeah I had looked at his website but then scratched him off the list after his lose-weight rant: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wheels.asp. color me sensitive...
It doesn't sound like he is calling 200+ lb riders fat. He uses the example of weighing as much as an NFL running back, so he isn't singling out overweight guys. But rather he just doesn't believe that Clydesdales should be riding modern racing bikes. FWIW, this was exactly what I was thinking 3 years ago when I was looking at road bikes. My thought was, how can these 23 mm wide tires and wheels hold my 220 lb weight without either breaking spokes or getting a lot of flats. I wound up buying a vintage touring bike instead.

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Old 07-18-10, 09:42 AM   #13
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yeah I had looked at his website but then scratched him off the list after his lose-weight rant:
Funny thing is that you'll have to take his philosophy to another builder if you want a good durable wheel. Sometimes people just don't want to hear the truth and others don't want to lose their rpeutaion over false notions (like a 300lb guy riding a 16 spoke wheel is good thing)!

Save money, replace the rear first ( do you realy need a wheelset?)

Deep V, I myself think the 32 would work but I'd go 36 at 275. Yes, you are dropping weight now but like the bride that buys the smaller wedding dress....... If for some reason you can't continue to drop, atleast you can still ride the wheel.

Find a Deep V online ($65'ish)
Maybe a hub online as well
take it to the shop and have an experienced builder fix it up for you. Maybe $230'ish but the sucker will last for years!

Later, have a front built, much cheaper hubs and you can use a sligthly smaller ligther rim as it takes less abuse. Mavic cxp33 type.
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Old 07-18-10, 09:54 AM   #14
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Yes, def just the back wheel. If I can do a custom build for $200 that wld be gr8

Maybe I should swallow my pride and call peter
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Old 07-18-10, 09:01 PM   #15
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Maybe I should swallow my pride and call peter
He is regarded as one of the best wheel builders around. With that said, if his rant really bothered you (although I think he makes a fair point), you can always have a wheel built by somebody else (just make sure to go with a well regarded builder).
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Old 07-18-10, 09:07 PM   #16
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http://www.wheelbuilder.com/

They also have a good rep with lots of good choices for a robust wheel build.. Peter White rear wheel will more likely be 250 - 350.00 for a build depending on rim and hub you use..

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Old 07-19-10, 10:13 AM   #17
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Thanks all. Took your advice to go custom. Landry's is building me a wheel this week.32-spoke mavic opensport with an ultegra hub, silver spokes, and brass nipples. Can't wait!
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Old 07-19-10, 11:11 AM   #18
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Thanks all. Took your advice to go custom. Landry's is building me a wheel this week.32-spoke mavic opensport with an ultegra hub, silver spokes, and brass nipples. Can't wait!
Hmmm, at 275, should have went with the Deep V. I know, the shop doesn't carry them.
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Old 07-19-10, 11:50 AM   #19
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Maybe so, but I am shrinking at a good clip and also prefer to buy locally. More importantly, they claim to have another customer with my dimensions who has run this same wheel for thousands of miles without trouble. Thanks again for the advice.
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Old 07-19-10, 12:38 PM   #20
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Try a differnet shop

I had my local LBS (thank you Bike Source in Columbus Oh</sarcasm>) build a wheel for me and it popped spokes 7 times in under 1000 miles. The wheel was completely rebuilt with new spokes three times. I went as far as purchasing a Park Spoke Tension Meter and explaining to them that the spoke tension was off the chart on the low end....

In the end, I had a different shop rebuild the wheel and have >1000 miles on it.
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Old 07-19-10, 01:06 PM   #21
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+1 on the Deep V.. If they can't get those I would look at the DT Swiss RR 1.2 / 585 Rim.. Same specs as deep V and available in 32 hole.. If you want to stick with Mavic I would look at the CXP33 rim... Honesty the Open Sport is there entry level rim and should be fine if build up correctly, the deeper dish rims will give you a more robust build..

http://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.aspx/Browse?Cat=C156

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Old 07-19-10, 01:31 PM   #22
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+1 on the Deep V.. If they can't get those I would look at the DT Swiss RR 1.2 / 585 Rim.. Same specs as deep V and available in 32 hole.. If you want to stick with Mavic I would look at the CXP33 rim... Honesty the Open Sport is there entry level rim and should be fine if build up correctly, the deeper dish rims will give you a more robust build..http://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.aspx/Browse?Cat=C156
Ya know, I hate to be the bad guy but lots of times the shops want to sell you what they have, not what you "need". As a clyde, we need stronger wheels. It's nice to support local shops but taking chances with rear wheels, you may be supporting them again sometime in the near future. Hey, I'm just being honest and speaking from experience and lots of problems at a lower weight than 270.

Deep V online, the rim will save a whole lot of heartache....$54 is a great price!

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Old 07-19-10, 02:08 PM   #23
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I don't think he is far off the mark.. We see people every week on this board that want to ride there 20 spoke wheels and are scratching there heads wondering why they are popping spokes.. We have many posters that tell them to get 28-32-36 hole wheels and they scoff at the very notion of doing such a thing..
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maybe, but I'm happy to ride whatever will work and have lost 30# in the past six months thanks to cycling. I don't want attitude from someone saying "don't be surprised when I suggest you go on a diet and call me back in a few years" (direct quote from the website).
While PW's rant is a little on the harshly worded side, I can understand where he's coming from and I agree with him (in principle, not on overall sentiment.)
I'm sure that he's not kidding when he talks about 250+ pounders calling up and asking for superlight bomb-proof wheels. It's a product of two things, one of which he nailed down in the rant; the idiot marketing of the bicycle industry. (The other is his own good reputation. "Woe is me, that everyone trusts me to build their wheels. Damn this word of mouth advertising!) Companies are pushing that you need the lightest rotating mass aero wheels, stiff-yet-compliant frame and so on... Unless you read Bicycle Times or Urban Velo, you're not going to see a lot of advertising outside of the racing equipment mindset.
PW mentions losing weight, and most of us here agree that we probably should. I know I could stand to drop another 25 pounds to get into an "athletic" shape, and even then I'd be nowhere near competitive as a cyclist because I'd still be a 6'6", 205 pound behemoth. The 300g I could save on a wheelset just don't compensate in power:weight ratios as much as those same 300g do for a guy who is only 130 pounds. At the same time, the fatigue I impart to those wheels is much higher so for little gain I'm taking a high risk.
Socalrider mentions it, and I'll second it: There are plenty of people breaking equipment who shudder at the suggestion that they might need *gasp* heavier-duty equipment. You don't use a garden trowel to dig an olympic sized swimming pool, why use equipment designed for racers sometimes half our weight if we're out to ride a charity century and not set any speed records?
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Old 07-20-10, 06:21 AM   #24
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+1 on the Deep V.. If they can't get those I would look at the DT Swiss RR 1.2 / 585 Rim.. Same specs as deep V and available in 32 hole.. If you want to stick with Mavic I would look at the CXP33 rim... Honesty the Open Sport is there entry level rim and should be fine if build up correctly, the deeper dish rims will give you a more robust build..

http://www.speedgoat.com/Catalog.aspx/Browse?Cat=C156
Oh, my mistake! They are building an OpenPro wheel not OpenSport. OpenSport is what I had previously. They also had DT Swiss in stock but said OpenPro was at least as strong. If folks think they are way off I'd like to know, not too late to switch my order.
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Old 07-20-10, 08:23 AM   #25
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Oh, my mistake! They are building an OpenPro wheel not OpenSport. OpenSport is what I had previously. They also had DT Swiss in stock but said OpenPro was at least as strong. If folks think they are way off I'd like to know, not too late to switch my order.
I'd go with the DT Swiss rim (I'm assuming it's an RR1.1 or RR465.) Not that either one is particularly stronger; they have roughly the same profile and construction... But the DT rim has wear indicators on the braking surface and the Open Pro does not.
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