Kamala

Because I'm procrastinating from work and because I want to be ready to take care of business once I have $$ saved up, I'd like to know what you're riding or what you might want to ride given this set of circumstances. Thanks for your input

- Rider weight: about 220 at time of purchase, expected range 190 - 200. Guessing wheels will still be weakest link, so may need stronger wheels at time of purchase and can adjust those later.

-Bike will be used for supported century(charity rides) and triathlons (up to Iron distance). Some might argue that these are cross-purposes, but for me these are similar road rides with limited stuff on the bike. If I ever got seriously competitive at triathlons, I might consider a tri-bike, but right now I'm working to justify n+1 bike, n+2 is not in the cards.

- Need to stay under $2500 all in. Willing to consider used options.

- I am agnostic on carbon vs. aluminum vs steel vs. ti. I just don't know enough to form a useful opinion on this debate. My current rig for commuting - rando attempts - eventually touring (and everything else since I don't have another bike) is a steel Jamis Aurora Elite.

What bike, components, wheels do you ride in similar circumstances? Or what would you look at as you went about selecting a bike with these issues in mind?

sstorkel

Honestly, you probably couldn't have picked two more different forms of bicycling. For centuries, you want a bike that's going to be comfortable enough to ride for an entire day. For triathlons and TTs, you want a bike that's aerodynamic and fast; all of the ones I've ridden seem to be relatively uncomfortable, even over relatively short distances.

My advice would be to figure out which riding discipline is more important to you and buy accordingly. Also, think about your goals. Do you want to be competitive in Iron-distance triathlons? If so, you should increase your budget by 3X and plan to buy a top-of-the-line CF bike and several aerodynamic CF wheels (e.g. Zipp Super-9 & 808 rears and 808 & 404 fronts) . On the other hand, if you'll be happy just finishing an Iron-distance triathlon you can probably get by with your standard road bike and some aero bars.

The Aurora Elite is a nice bike and would seem perfectly suited to century rides. Is there something wrong with it? Given your stated goals, I'm wondering why you wouldn't concentrate your search of Tri-specific bikes (e.g. Cervelo P1 or P2)... Cervelo also makes a line of aerodynamic road bikes (S1, S2, S3) with swappable seatposts that give either a more road-like or more tri-like geometry. I rode the S2 and thought the ride was very harsh due to the super-stiff aerodynamic seatpost, but it might be something to consider.

CliftonGK1

IM distance on the bike is a century (and a little bit), so I don't consider these to be two different disciplines; charity centuries would just be training for your IM racing, so why not use the same bike, right?

Now, going with what sstorkel said, Tri/TT bikes are insanely stiff and fast at the sacrifice of your comfort, so you might want to compromise and get a light road bike with aerobars, and maybe a spruced up wheelset with the extra money if you're not planning on going world-class wtih your racing efforts.

Herbie53

I lust for go fast time on my TT bike, but our affairs are usually brief, sweaty and hurt so very, very good.
I love my road bike and take comfort that it is always there to comfort me after the TT crushes my soul.

I vote you get a nice sporty road bike first. Worry about n+2 later.

Kamala

Right on the money as usual, that's exactly what I'm thinking. I'm willing to be corrected if I'm wrong about this, but my understanding is that expensive tri bikes and wheels can potentially shave minutes but not hours. If I ever get to a point where I've done the work to shave the hours and I'm approaching being age-group competitive, I might think about a tri-specific bike. Right now, my goal for tris is finishing IM and Half-IM.

I'll admit that there's a good degree of $$/time analysis going into the thoughts on buying another bike. I probably should have mentioned the current set-up above. I can pull apart the Aurora Elite to rig it for tris and have done it. The AE has full fenders, dyno and wired front light, rear light wired to front light, rear rack, and handlebar bag mount. This all takes a long while to pull apart and most of it must come off to prevent damage if I'm travelling to a tri and need to pack the bike for shipping. Locally, I could race with much of this stuff left on, but I'd really prefer not to as I think most of us wouldn't. Add the massive time expenditure for break-down/set-up to another set of wheels and we're looking at a pretty significant investment without much return.

So if folks generally concur that road bike is the way to go, let's talk brands, materials, wheels, specifics. Crowdsource, baby!

TechKnowGN

I second pretty much everything said here. There are a lot of great bikes in the $1000-1200 range that would allow you to then spend good money on accessories for tri's (better/stronger wheels, aerobars, plus all the non riding tri gear you'll need (hello wetsuit!)).

Too many brands to pick from. I'm partial to Fuji myself, but there is so much good stuff: Trek, Cannondale, Orbea, Felt, Blue, etc. Especially if youre looking at a road bike for tri.

Greg_R

Just don't use the aerobars for the charity and/or rando events & check with the organizers (you may need to remove them for the event).

Herbie53

From what it sounds like you're looking for the Cervelo S bikes mentioned in the first reply are worth looking at.

The S1 is in your price range. https://www.excelsports.com/new.asp?p...jor=1&minor=35

sstorkel

In addition to the Cervelo S-series bikes, I'd look at he usual road/endurance bike candidates: Specialized Roubaix, Specialized Secteur, Cervelo RS, Giant Defy, Cannondale Synapse, Felt Z-series, Trek Pilot, Fuji Newest, Look 566, etc.

Kamala

There's the productivity-ruining post I've been expecting!

Homeyba

I bet you could find a farily inexpensive used road bike (any of those mentioned buy SStorkel as long as they fit you), a set of used Zipp 404's and a set aerobars all for close to your $2500 limit. You'd have a pretty slick century/TT bike and it wouldn't be too much slower than a Tri-specific bike.

TechKnowGN

Look Higher than the Newest with Fuji, look at the Roubiax. In fact, take your $2500, buy us each a Roubaix at the $1000 level and spend your other $500 on you

sstorkel

Just keep in mind that the Roubaix has a significantly more aggressive geometry than the Newest. I would classify it as a race bike, not an endurance/plush/long-distance bike...

Kamala

So we're all on the same page about my utter lack of information on these kinds of bikes, it took me a good 15 minutes to figure out that Fuji and Specialized both make a Roubiax, that Newest is also a Fuji model, and that "Look Higher" was a verb and adverb not a different bike made by Look. But I'm getting it now :-)

Homeyba

I wouldn't be afraid of a "race" geometry bike. You are going to be "racing" it anyway! The geometry of the bike is not going to make it any more or less comfortable. Your comfort is based on your contact points and how you are fitted on the bike. You can be just as comfortable on a "race" geometry bike as a more relaxed geometry bike. It's just a matter of how you set the bike up. I do RAAM on a "race" geometry bike because it is the most comfortable bike for me and a "race" geometry bike may be the perfect bike for what you want to do. A century or IM isn't a long ride/race. You don't need a comfort bike!

sstorkel

You don't need a comfort bike, but you do need one that is comfortable for you.

The Fuji Roubaix has a head tube that's 27mm shorter than the Newest, assuming a 54cm frame size. That's a big difference! You may not think a century is long, but I know that I would consider it a reasonably long ride... especially if you dropped my handlebars by 3cm!

Homeyba

That was exactly my point!!!

Yes a race bike may or may not have a significant difference in head tube length but that may or may not make a bike more or less comfortable. It just depends on how you are set up on the bike. Remember that Kamala is racing in IM distance traithlons as well as doing centuries so I would assume that there will be aerobars on the bike therefore a more forward and aero position is warranted. It's a completely different fitted position than where you'd be on a standard road bike. IM's generally don't have significant amounts of climbing so speed gains with a properly set-up aerobar position are significant. The geometry of the bike isn't as important as being in an aero position that is as comfortable as possible. This can be done on a race geometry bike or on a more relaxed geometry bike.

btw, if someone is "racing" IM distances they shouldn't be considering them long events!

btw#2, one thing that LBS's do that really bothers me is when they set up/build a bike they cut the stem off of the fork leaving no way to raise and lower the bars without getting really steep stems. Whenever I buy a new bike I have the shop leave the fork stem alone or I have them cut it long so that I can raise and lower my bars about an inch depending on what kind of event that I'm doing. If I'm racing I have them all the way down and if I'm doing a fun ride like a brevet or century ride I put the spacers under the stem and raise it up. Works great! That is something Tamala might think about doing when switching between the IM's and centuries.

sstorkel

Are you sure about that? Aside from a complete lack of the word "race" in any of his posts, here are the quotes I see:

To me, that sounds more like participation than competitive racing though obviously Kamala is the final word... If his goal is to race, then I agree: he should buy a Tri/TT bike or a road race bike and set it up for the most aero position he can stand. If he's not racing, however, a bike with a more relaxed geometry might end up being more fun/useful in the long run.

Agree. I generally prefer to buy frames and then build the bike myself or I tell the LBS that I'm not going to buy unless they leave the steerer tube uncut.

Kamala

If I may...
Yes, IM is a race, but for perspective there is typically about 9 hours difference between winners and last official finishers. I will be throwing myself at these races as hard as I know how, but I'm mostly racing myself and trying to make sure there's at least one octogenarian behind me when I finish.

The reason I don't want a TT/Tri bike is basically what sstorkel is saying: I want a bike that will be good for tris but also versatile enough to be more relaxed ride for other purposes. Optimally, this bike will accommodate aerobars decently. The Cervelo S1 is really starting to catch my eye in that regard as doing both things I want it for decently well. Biking is with me forever, triathlons have an unknown status in my future. They could be a fad until I complete an IM, they may be something I want to keep doing after that. I'm just not sure at this point, so I'd rather have what might be a less-able tri bike that fits well with other types of riding I like.

FTR, I'm inclined to believe that there are bikes out there that are beyond my current and near-term capabilities. I either will not be able to handle them or am unskilled to the point that I am unable to tell any difference in performance.

CliftonGK1

I think this is the biggest factor to consider: Is the cost justified in the performance difference?

And let's be honest here. Guys me and Kamala's size aren't going to notice a huge performance difference by shaving a pound off the bike, or switching from mid to deep section aero rims.

Homeyba

Clifton, you need to get yourself a set of Zipp's!

Any time you are entering a race you are racing. If you're not racing for the win you're racing the guy next to you, the octogenarian behind you or maybe just your own PR. You're still racing and want to go as fast as you can. Actually, I think sstorkel and I agree on a lot of things here, we're just approaching it from different directions. I believe we agree that fit is the most important element here. It would be very benificial for you to spend some time with someone who really knows how to fit a person on their bike. Since you are not going to be buying several bikes, try and get a bike with the steerer tube still intact so that you have the option of easily raising and lowering the handlebars depending on the event you are in. You may never need it but it's really nice to have that flexibility. The S1 is a great bike made by a great company and as long as it fits you, you should be very happy with it.

CliftonGK1

I'll save up for a pair of 808s for my brevet bike.

There's the big difference in our opinions, I think. My experience is no longer as part of the racing set. Sure, back when I was racing, I was all about being competitive. Had Aerospokes and Profile clip ons with a SpeedShifter mount on my carbon/alu racing bike. There wasn't a "tri specific" bike back then, and aerospokes or a full disc rear were the aero wheels of the day. This was in the late 80s.
Now, I don't enter races. Times are solely for personal records, and I'm not even very competitive against myself most of the time. Heck, I stopped and took a 20 minute nap in the sun on my last 200k because I had almost 2 hours of buffer time for the last control, and the park just seemed like a great place for a nap.

Homeyba

Clifton, I can't wait to see your carbon fiber brevet wonder bike with Zipp 808's when you get it! I'm sure it'll have the latest 20speed drive train as well (who needs a lousy triple any-who) and weigh in at sub-17lbs I'm sure. That'll be pretty slick! You can join me in the sub-50hr 1200k crowd...as soon as I get there myself.

I have kind of a split personality on this. I like to cruise when I'm doing brevet type rides or centuries. I don't mind stopping at a creek and sticking my feet in. I haven't done a 1200km brevet in much under 80hrs (I'm usually closer to 90hrs) for that very reason. Those are social rides for me and that's what I'm there to do. A race on the other hand is a very different animal in my mind. If I'm at a race, it's game day whether I'm racing for first place or last place. I wouldn't enter a race just to do a joy ride, especially something like an Iron man. That's pretty serious.

Interestingly enough I use the same bike to race on that I use to do century rides, brevets or other fun rides. Exactly like what Tamala is wanting to do. I have two other bikes but I don't use them. My main bike is a Colnago C-50. All I do is raise or lower the bars, add or remove aerobars, change the gearing and wheels and its all set up for whatever event I want to do. For long brevets I'll throw on a seatpost rack and it's ready to go. Pretty simple. If the bike wasn't so expensive it'd be cheap too!

BTW, I've run Zipp 404's on my brevet bike in the past. They got me through a sub 23hr 600k. Not too bad. It'd be really cool to lace my Schmidt hub up to the front Zipp...

Kamala

Thanks for all the thoughts so far. Lots of bikes to test ride in the coming months. Good thing is I don't have money burning a hole in my pocket, plenty of time to make a very deliberate decision.

Kamala

Any technical issues with putting a triple on any of these?