Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 02-24-11, 11:57 AM   #1
jleiwig
DAS UBER CLYDE
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Western Ohio
Bikes: Still Looking
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Tune Up or Overhaul?

My SLBS is having a sale now through March 15th on Tune Ups and Overhauls

According to them, the tune-up vs. an overhaul looks like this:

Tune-Up $49.99

•Adjust derailleurs & cables
•Adjust brakes, pads, & cables
•Adjust hubs, true & tension spokes
•Adjust headset
•Adjust bottom bracket
•Lube everything
•Basic cleaning


Complete Overhaul $109.99 Labor plus parts

•Completely remove everything down to bare frame
•Everything above in the Tune-Up
•Replace all cables and pads with new

Just truing a wheel is $15-20 per wheel, which would seem to indicate that the Tune-Up is a good deal.

I should mention that my goal is to ride this bike for this "season" and then look at buying a new bike on end of year close out (I should be at a more reasonable weight by then so I can get a road bike). I'll probably sell the bike at the end of season, and I don't see myself getting back the Overhaul price + parts when I'm done with the bike. That would probably put me over $200 total into this bike, and you can get a brand new bike for $279 at the LBS anytime.

Which would you recommend and why? Remember this is a 13 year old Specialized mountain bike which seems to me to have little to no maintenance done on it over it's lifetime. Of course then again, I'm not sure what's original and what is not as quite a few of the parts don't match.

I'm really quite torn as to which way to go. I know either way I probably won't get all my money back when I sell the bike, but I'd like to get most of it back as either one is a value added operation.

The other option to consider I guess would be if I could buy the specific bike tools I would need and replacement parts for less than the cost of the overhaul and do it myself? I'm not afraid to rip into it, because I'm very mechanically versed, just not sure I could do it for less than what the LBS charges.

Sorry for rambling, but weighing my options is making my head hurt!
jleiwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 12:23 PM   #2
snowman40
Senior Member
 
snowman40's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Bikes: Fuji
Posts: 1,144
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'd go overhaul since you are looking at selling it.

I would think it would be easier to sell if you are able to advertise that it was overhauled in the spring.
snowman40 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 12:47 PM   #3
JohnA42
Senior Member
 
JohnA42's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Bikes:
Posts: 186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If the bike looks like it hasn't been well maintained then I'd go for the overhaul. $110 is an excellent price. (Regular price in this market is about twice that.)

You probably won't get your money back on selling it, true. A couple things to consider.

1) You could keep the bike and use it for rainy days, commuting, etc. N+1... it's a way of life.

2) The overhaul should provide you some peace of mind. What's that worth in $$$? Factor that into your resale equation.

3) Your overhauled $200 bike is probably worth more than that $279 LBS special.
JohnA42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 01:24 PM   #4
CACycling
Senior Member
 
CACycling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Oxnard, CA
Bikes: '08 Fuji Roubaix RC; '07 Schwinn Le Tour GS; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX
Posts: 4,565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Agree with going for the overhaul and strongly agree with keeping the bike as a back up. One bike is never enough.
CACycling is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 01:41 PM   #5
Mr. Beanz
Banned.
 
Mr. Beanz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Upland Ca
Bikes: Lemond Chambery/Cannondale R-900/Trek 8000 MTB/Burley Duet tandem
Posts: 20,030
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'd pass on all of it and keep the bike as a back up. Is the BB moving side to side? Are the wheels crooked? an you move the headset bt rocking back and forth onteh bike?

If not, you're basically paying the shop $50 to squirt lube on the cables, chain and derailluers. Heck find a freind that can adjust the derailleurs for you. I have for several buddies, takes about 30 seconds.

BTW, what is a reasonable weight for a roadbike? I know lots of big riders on roadies. If went by what others said, I would have had to give up bikes when I was 12 years old.
Mr. Beanz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 01:56 PM   #6
rdtompki
Senior Member
 
rdtompki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Hollister, CA
Bikes: Volagi, daVinci Joint Venture
Posts: 3,962
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If everything is working and you ride in the hills and the bike has not necessarily been well maintained - I might just change out the brake cables and pads if they are old. Brakes and tires are the two things you need the most on a downhill. The other stuff tends to make itself known when its time is up.
rdtompki is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 02:08 PM   #7
jleiwig
DAS UBER CLYDE
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Western Ohio
Bikes: Still Looking
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz View Post
BTW, what is a reasonable weight for a roadbike? I know lots of big riders on roadies. If went by what others said, I would have had to give up bikes when I was 12 years old.
Well currently at a little over 350 lbs, I don't think that a true road bike would A) be very comfortable B) hold up my big butt!
jleiwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 02:09 PM   #8
Wogster
Senior Member
 
Wogster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Norco Bushpilot (out of commission), Raleigh Delta
Posts: 6,941
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleiwig View Post
My SLBS is having a sale now through March 15th on Tune Ups and Overhauls

According to them, the tune-up vs. an overhaul looks like this:

Tune-Up $49.99

•Adjust derailleurs & cables
•Adjust brakes, pads, & cables
•Adjust hubs, true & tension spokes
•Adjust headset
•Adjust bottom bracket
•Lube everything
•Basic cleaning


Complete Overhaul $109.99 Labor plus parts

•Completely remove everything down to bare frame
•Everything above in the Tune-Up
•Replace all cables and pads with new

Just truing a wheel is $15-20 per wheel, which would seem to indicate that the Tune-Up is a good deal.

I should mention that my goal is to ride this bike for this "season" and then look at buying a new bike on end of year close out (I should be at a more reasonable weight by then so I can get a road bike). I'll probably sell the bike at the end of season, and I don't see myself getting back the Overhaul price + parts when I'm done with the bike. That would probably put me over $200 total into this bike, and you can get a brand new bike for $279 at the LBS anytime.

Which would you recommend and why? Remember this is a 13 year old Specialized mountain bike which seems to me to have little to no maintenance done on it over it's lifetime. Of course then again, I'm not sure what's original and what is not as quite a few of the parts don't match.

I'm really quite torn as to which way to go. I know either way I probably won't get all my money back when I sell the bike, but I'd like to get most of it back as either one is a value added operation.

The other option to consider I guess would be if I could buy the specific bike tools I would need and replacement parts for less than the cost of the overhaul and do it myself? I'm not afraid to rip into it, because I'm very mechanically versed, just not sure I could do it for less than what the LBS charges.

Sorry for rambling, but weighing my options is making my head hurt!
There isn't really a lot that is complex on a bicycle, all the mechanical bits, with the exceptions of bearings and races is hanging out there for all to see. Go to the local library, have a look at some bicycle repair books and see if it looks like something you can handle. If it is, buy a book and the tools you need for the job, and go at it. Other then a bottom bracket tool, crank puller, chain whip, cassette/freewheel tool, chain breaker, pedal wrench and a cone wrench, there isn't really a lot of tools you need that you don't already have.

The bottom bracket tool, cassette/freewheel tool and cone wrench, may be different for different brands..... For a Specialized of that vintage it's likely all Shimano and if it's 6 cogs in the back it's likely a freewheel, 8 or more and it's likely cassette, 7 is iffy... I'm not that mechanical and I keep all the bikes here running nicely, so it's not that hard.....
Wogster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 02:20 PM   #9
jr59
Senior Member
 
jr59's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: the 904, Jax fl
Bikes:
Posts: 2,290
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz View Post
I'd pass on all of it and keep the bike as a back up. Is the BB moving side to side? Are the wheels crooked? an you move the headset bt rocking back and forth onteh bike?

If not, you're basically paying the shop $50 to squirt lube on the cables, chain and derailluers. Heck find a freind that can adjust the derailleurs for you. I have for several buddies, takes about 30 seconds.

BTW, what is a reasonable weight for a roadbike? I know lots of big riders on roadies. If went by what others said, I would have had to give up bikes when I was 12 years old.
^^THIS^^

You can learn to adjust derailuers on you tube!
jr59 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 02:51 PM   #10
Wogster
Senior Member
 
Wogster's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Norco Bushpilot (out of commission), Raleigh Delta
Posts: 6,941
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleiwig View Post
Well currently at a little over 350 lbs, I don't think that a true road bike would A) be very comfortable B) hold up my big butt!
Road bikes are a lot tougher then they look, some would argue that an older style road bike with the horizontal top tube, is stronger then many of the modern mountain bikes which have the sloping top tube which is closer to the traditional women's design.
Wogster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 02:53 PM   #11
Mr. Beanz
Banned.
 
Mr. Beanz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Upland Ca
Bikes: Lemond Chambery/Cannondale R-900/Trek 8000 MTB/Burley Duet tandem
Posts: 20,030
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleiwig View Post
Well currently at a little over 350 lbs, I don't think that a true road bike would A) be very comfortable B) hold up my big butt!
That is quite a bit but I do know guys at about 270 the ride roadies no problem. As far as holdingup, I think they would with a good wheel. I have Velocity Deep V's on our tandem supporting 400+lbs. I'd say 36 spoke V's would hold you. There is some good stuff out there!
Mr. Beanz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 03:17 PM   #12
treebound 
aka: Mike J.
 
treebound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: between Milwaukee and Sheboygan in Wisconsin
Bikes: 1995 Trek 520 is the current primary bike.
Posts: 3,069
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
My thoughts align with others above.

Do your own tune-up at home since you're mechanically adept. Use the money saved to buy tools or road-style tires, assuming the MTB still has knobbies or dual-use tires.

Used prices on MTB's (at least around here) are so bad you will never get your money back. Keep the MTB and set it up as a commuter and winter bike.

ParkTool has a nice do it yourself section, as does SheldonBrown.com.
treebound is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 03:24 PM   #13
jethro56 
Watching and waiting.
 
jethro56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Mattoon,Ill
Bikes: Trek 7300 Trek Madone 4.5 Surly Cross Check
Posts: 2,024
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
I say do it yourself if you enjoy learning about mechanical stuff. Start out by detail cleaning the bike in a well lit area. Get a book like one of Zinn's Art of bicycle maintance. Identify the parts. Do you have a threadless head, a freewheel or cassette, model of deraileurs, center pull brakes ect... Remember the the prices quoted are the minimum. If they put new parts on the bike you'll have to pay whatever they charge for them. We'll still be here and so will the Mechanic's Forum to confuse you further. The Oh... that's what they were talking about. Is so cool.

My first tip. Brake cleaner is great to clean non-painted surfaces. Apply to rag. Do not get into bearings until you know how to rebuild them.

I saw the Park Tool and Sheldon Brown Post they're great. I like having a book right next to the bike also.
jethro56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 03:33 PM   #14
pdlamb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: northern Deep South
Bikes: Fuji Touring, Novara Randonee
Posts: 2,917
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 123 Post(s)
I'll go against the flow on this one. Since OP asked which of the two, I'm thinking he'll let the shop do the work. After 13 years, I think there's a lot of things in there that used to be lubricated that have likely dried up, like headset, bottom bracket, and wheel bearings. If cables aren't rusted, housing is dry anyhow. Derailer pivots are probably dry if nobody's lubed them in the last 4-5 years.

Do the overhaul. Think of it as a new, $110 bike. If you only ride it for a year before you trade, sell it for $100 and it cost you $10 to ride a lubed, trued, adjusted bike for one year.

If it's not worth that, why are you even thinking about riding a bike?
pdlamb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 03:35 PM   #15
exile
Senior Member
 
exile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Binghamton, NY
Bikes: 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker, 1999 Jamis Exile
Posts: 2,861
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If you are inclined a lot of stuff you can do (or learn how to online). For things like BB, pedals, and spokes you might need special tools, but that's about it.

If you do decide to do anything just keep the receipt and use it as a selling point when the time comes.
exile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 03:48 PM   #16
jethro56 
Watching and waiting.
 
jethro56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Mattoon,Ill
Bikes: Trek 7300 Trek Madone 4.5 Surly Cross Check
Posts: 2,024
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Just had another pro DIY thought. What you learn about this bike will help you when you go to buy a new one.
jethro56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 04:30 PM   #17
RunningPirate
Senior Member
 
RunningPirate's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Millbrae, CA
Bikes: 1970? Dawes Galaxy, 1992 Biscayne Lazer (Stolen, those SOB's), 1999 Specialized FSR Elite (soon to be cannibalized), 2011 Raleigh Record Ace, 197? Bob Jackson Frankenbike, 1989 Jamis Diablo (to be built with parts from the FSR)
Posts: 645
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wogsterca View Post
There isn't really a lot that is complex on a bicycle, all the mechanical bits, with the exceptions of bearings and races is hanging out there for all to see. Go to the local library, have a look at some bicycle repair books and see if it looks like something you can handle. If it is, buy a book and the tools you need for the job, and go at it. Other then a bottom bracket tool, crank puller, chain whip, cassette/freewheel tool, chain breaker, pedal wrench and a cone wrench, there isn't really a lot of tools you need that you don't already have.
+1 on the DIY. It will be more $$ on the outset, but you get to use the tools and knowledge over and over (...and over and over, sometimes) throughout the years. Also, there's that cool "I can handle this" feeling you get when something breaks.

In addition to the tools listed above, I'm going to add a bike stand. Makes it exponentially easier to wrench when the bike is being held up for you.

In addition to Sheldon Brown and Park Tool websites, check out http://www.bicycletutor.com - I used this a lot when I [recently] taught myself how to wrench.

I'm also going to +1 on keeping your current bike (along with getting a new one). Let it be your experimentation/beater/commuter/bar bike.

All that said - if you don't want to hassle with all this, then go for the overhaul.
RunningPirate is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 04:41 PM   #18
jleiwig
DAS UBER CLYDE
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Western Ohio
Bikes: Still Looking
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
As I said previously I'm not opposed to doing it myself, I do all my own car and truck maintenance so it's no problem what so ever. I stopped at the library today and got three different maintenance books.

My main fear as someone alluded to above is that when I take it to the shop to have it tuned up that they will come out with a bill or a list of everything that needs replaced that will cost me $400 or more. Then I'm out the original $50 I paid for the bike, and now another $50 only to learn that by the time I'm done I'll have $500 in a 13 year old bike.

I think I'm going to start with building a wheel truing stand, since I have most of the stuff around anyway, and then buy the spoke wrench set from Performance Bike for 11.99. That will at least get my rims true with some patience and a good set of instructions. I've found quite a few on the web.

That will be a start, and with some careful lubing, cleaning and such I'll put the bike on the road for a test ride. If it works great, if not, I'll repair and replace things one by one with an eye toward something that is forward compatible should I choose to just buy a frame for my next bike.

Thanks everyone.
jleiwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 04:43 PM   #19
jleiwig
DAS UBER CLYDE
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Western Ohio
Bikes: Still Looking
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz View Post
That is quite a bit but I do know guys at about 270 the ride roadies no problem. As far as holdingup, I think they would with a good wheel. I have Velocity Deep V's on our tandem supporting 400+lbs. I'd say 36 spoke V's would hold you. There is some good stuff out there!
While I agree generally that it would probably hold up, currently it's more a motivation tool than anything else. It's my reward for getting to a number where there is a 2 in front.
jleiwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 04:50 PM   #20
JohnA42
Senior Member
 
JohnA42's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Bikes:
Posts: 186
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleiwig View Post
My main fear as someone alluded to above is that when I take it to the shop to have it tuned up that they will come out with a bill or a list of everything that needs replaced that will cost me $400 or more. Then I'm out the original $50 I paid for the bike, and now another $50 only to learn that by the time I'm done I'll have $500 in a 13 year old bike.
Most places will give you an estimate for free.

Seriously, whatever you do -- tune-up, overhaul, DIY -- make sure that you check the brake pads, cables, etc.
JohnA42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 06:12 PM   #21
CACycling
Senior Member
 
CACycling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Oxnard, CA
Bikes: '08 Fuji Roubaix RC; '07 Schwinn Le Tour GS; '92 Diamond Back Ascent EX
Posts: 4,565
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I'm changing my vote from overhaul to DIY (missed that it was an option).

When I got back into cycling 3 1/2 years ago, it was on an '86 Diamond Back Ascent bought for $40 off CL. It was a bit of a mess but I tore into it and it came out really nice. Replaced the tires, brake pads, saddle and grips plus did a lot of cleaning, lubing and adjusting. Rode it for 1K miles before getting an old Schwinn road bike and, after major renovation on it (it was a dumpster find), discovering how awesome road bikes are.

I've accumulated a pretty good tool kit picking up one tool at a time as I needed them. Performance has some nice tools at really good prices (especially if you catch them on sale) and there won't be too many you'll need right off the bat as you already have the basic tools.

As others mentioned, this will be your learning bike so why not learn to wrench?
CACycling is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 06:21 PM   #22
Mr. Beanz
Banned.
 
Mr. Beanz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Upland Ca
Bikes: Lemond Chambery/Cannondale R-900/Trek 8000 MTB/Burley Duet tandem
Posts: 20,030
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
My experience is....if you take an old wheel into a shop, they mess with it, it's going to break! If the wheels are fairly straight, it's better to leave it alone at this stage. If you take it in, a spoke could break during the adjustment. Then you won't have a choice but to buy a new wheel cause the shop won't want to deal with it after that. If anything, take the money and put it towards a new rear wheel then keep the bike as a wrencher.
Mr. Beanz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 08:12 PM   #23
jleiwig
DAS UBER CLYDE
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South Western Ohio
Bikes: Still Looking
Posts: 47
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Beanz View Post
My experience is....if you take an old wheel into a shop, they mess with it, it's going to break! If the wheels are fairly straight, it's better to leave it alone at this stage. If you take it in, a spoke could break during the adjustment. Then you won't have a choice but to buy a new wheel cause the shop won't want to deal with it after that. If anything, take the money and put it towards a new rear wheel then keep the bike as a wrencher.
But what if I mess with it myself Beanz? If I break a spoke then I replace it. No big deal right since I'm doing my own wrenching?

BTW. Got pretty far along on the truing stand tonight. I'll post pictures once it's completed. The only piece I didn't find was the steel I need for the uprights. Menards wanted 8 bucks for 4 foot piece when I only need 6". I'll have to check my stash and if I can't find something suitable then I'll have to run down to the scrap yard for about $.95 worth of steel.
jleiwig is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 09:25 PM   #24
Mr. Beanz
Banned.
 
Mr. Beanz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Upland Ca
Bikes: Lemond Chambery/Cannondale R-900/Trek 8000 MTB/Burley Duet tandem
Posts: 20,030
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jleiwig View Post
But what if I mess with it myself Beanz? If I break a spoke then I replace it. No big deal right since I'm doing my own wrenching?
.
That's part of the reason I mention "if the wheels are failry straight, it's better to leave them alone at this stage". I'd leave them alone if they are, that way the shop and /or you don't break one..

If you take them into a shop, they wil mess with them with more risk of breaking. Leave well enough alone is my point....."if they are fairly straight"

Last edited by Mr. Beanz; 02-24-11 at 09:30 PM.
Mr. Beanz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-11, 09:26 PM   #25
Arvadaman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 272
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
If you a mechanically inclined, then DIY. Some people are not interested or mechanically inclined to do their own repairs.

I do mine myself except if it takes a very expensive, specialized tool. Then I take it to the shop and have them do just that part.

The wheels can be trued relatively easily but it takes patience and many people are not willing or able to be that patient. You can DIY truing very well and cheaply if you have a dial indicator handy. I use one and true the wheels on the bike. I can get within +/- 0.005" of true pretty quickly with some practice.
Arvadaman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:34 PM.