Originally Posted by Aahzz
Back from the first ride, and all sorts of winded - but had a blast. The Sedona is a pretty darn comfy bike. My issue starting out is that I live at the bottom of a noticeable hill, and I'm starting at a pretty high intensity because of it. I think I'm going to start out by walking up the hill, and starting from the top on a flatter section, and get warmed up better.
I do need to get a tune up, or adjust the front derailleur - shifting was generally smooth, but I did force the chain off the front by over-aggressively trying to downshift when I underestimated the hill.
I may try the Rincon tomorrow, but I do like the more upright position on the Sedona, so I may just stick with it.
Okay, when money is tight for bicycle maintenance, then learning a couple of DIY items, can save a bundle, especially with shifting adjustments. First site down along the cage, is it square with the gear it is over, if it's not, then loosen the clamp slightly and square it up. Use a tape measure and measure if your not sure.
There are 3 components to shifter adjustment, upper limit, lower limit and cable tension. Generally shifting down slackens the cable, shifting up tightens the cable, we shall assume this is the case. There are two limit screws, one for the low side, one for the high side, they may be marked low and high, if they are not, you need to test it. Shift to the lowest gear, turn the inner screw 1 full turn, does the cage move, if not, turn that screw back and turn the other one, now turn it back. Now with something or someone holding the rear wheel off the ground, gently turn the pedals, turn the screw, toward the larger gear, until the chain starts to complain, then turn it the other way until the chain starts to complain, now turn it back 1/2 turn. Shift to the highest gear, and turn the other screw toward the smaller gear until the chain starts to complain, then turn it the other way, until it starts to complain, then turn back 1/2 turn. Shift back to the lowest gear, you can put the wheel back on the ground and stop pedalling. Measure the distance from the seat tube to the cage and remember that number.
Check to see if the cable is too slack, if you can pull it more then 1/2 inch before the cage moves, it's too loose. Look on the derailleur you will see a screw that the cable goes through, with a knurled part, this is a barrel adjuster, if you turn it, you will see that it gets longer and shorter, this affects the cable length as well, turn it to it's shortest position, then back off 1/2 turn. Look on the shifter for another barrel adjuster, if it has one, position it the same, shortest position then back off 1/2 turn. There is another screw that holds the cable near the end, loosen this one off, and pull the cable to remove the excess slack, it does not need to be tight, just so that when you pull the cable, the cage moves right away, but not so tight that the cage is kept from moving it's full range. Measure from the seat tube to the cage, is the measurement the same, if it's greater then the cable is too tight. Now shift to the middle gear, lift the rear wheel and pedal a little, if it makes noise, turn the barrel adjuster on the derailleur a quarter turn, toward longer, this should quiet it down.
Rear derailleurs are dealt with in much the same way, note, if you go through the gears and it's quiet in some and not others, for example you have 8 and it's quiet in 1,4,5,8 but not in the others, the hanger may be bent, and this should be checked by a shop. When shifting, remember rear shifting is on the slack side of the chain, front shifting is on the tense side of the chain, you should always ease up on the pedals when front shifting, anticipate the shift. Tough to do when your on an uphill, but if you do it enough, you will remember how.