squirtdad

Coby,

Bikes direct has some good prices, but as you are not too experienced in bike mechanics, I think you need to stay with a local shop. If you give a general idea about where you are in Utah, maybe someone one can give you a shop reccomendation.

I often suggest Craigslist, but again if you are not real hands on with bikes, you might not know what all to look at. If you have someone who knows what they are doing you might go this way and then look into how to maintain your bike classes...... just as an idea here is are some items from SLC craigslist.

This would work if you are not too tall (5' 6 or so) Trek 1500 $250
https://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/bik/2413246766.html

or this if you are taller (6ft plus)
https://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/bik/2407009606.html

Size and fit are critical to being a happy biker who plans on spending some miles on the bike

Coby

I think what I'll do is look around online at the options in my price range, then try to find them locally.

That site has quite a few in the $500-$800 range that look good. I obviously still don't know enough to really know if they are good for me though.

What do you mean when you say the downside is the maintenance?

Why's that? Better wheels?

Alright, I'll do that. That seems like a good idea to get them checked out before use.

I wish I knew someone who cycled, but I don't. Shouldn't be too had to meet some local people online though.

Coby

Yeah, I'll try to go locally. It sounds like there's lots of benefits of doing so.

I'm about 6'3 so I assume I need a somewhat larger frame. What are the differences in frame sizes?

I'll take a look on CL and another big UT classified site. I live near SLC so that's probably where most of them are.

JusticeZero

If you want to do mountain biking ultimately, one other option is to buy high pressure slicks with small 26x1.25 tubes for a mountain bike. The position isn't as good for raw speed, but it's a step up from trying to ride on streets with soft dirt tires. Still, the cross bike recommendation is good, just mentioning this as one option.
I would also urge that you get a taillight and headlight, so you will be more visible to other road users. Reflective vest is good too.
Frame can be pretty much anything. I advise avoiding carbon fiber on principle, they tend to be used on bikes for 'weight weenies' and thus built light rather than strong, and the way a carbon fiber frame fails is spectacular and apparently a little like something out of loony-tunes.
Just remember: Light, Strong, Cheap - pick any two. Removing 'cheap' can run the prices up amazingly high, so you're going to sacrifice 'light' every time. Heavy wheels, lots of spokes, look for adjectives like "solid", "bombproof" and the like.

exile

Great quote.

squirtdad

here is guide to sizing for traditional road bikes....

Height 5'10" - 6'1" inseam 31.5" - 33" bike size 58 - 60 cm
Height 6'0" - 6'3" Inseam 32.5" - 34" 60 - 62 cm
Height 6'2" - 6'5" Inseam 34.5" - 36" 62 - 64 cm

Some newer bikes come in s/m/l/xl you would probably be on the edge of large to extra large at a guess

Coby

Yeah, I do want to MTB, but I think just sticking to road and getting in shape is the best way to go right now.

I'm just looking at some Motobecane Cross bikes, and it seems that most of them have carbon fiber forks. At my weight should I try to avoid that?

I need to take a look on some cycle stores to get an idea of how much the other gear will cost so that I know what my budget will be for the bike itself.

Coby

Oh okay, thanks for that. I kept seeing those measurements and assumed that I'd need the largest one, but wasn't sure.



And thanks for all the help everyone. It's really nice coming to a forum and getting a lot of help right off the bat. Shows the quality of the community here.

Seattle Forrest

All bikes need maintenance. They need a tune up after a few hundred miles as the cables stretch out. They'll need new brake pads from time to time, and a chain every 2,500 miles or so. The gears eventually wear out, the ones in the back maybe lasting three or four chains. Wheels "go out of" "true" meaning they don't spin perfect circles along a one-dimensional plane anymore, but start to wobble left and right toward the brakes. Et cetera.

Mind you, this stuff is mostly cheap and easy. If you buy the bike locally somewhere, the shop will probably do free adjustments for a year, which means you don't have to know how to do any of it, and you don't need tools. When you buy from BikesDirect, you get a much better price, but you have to either do the maintenance yourself, or find a bike mechanic to take it to. That's really not a bad thing, but it can be intimidating when you're first getting started. How much aptitude you have for this kind of stuff is pretty much what determines if BD is a good idea or not.

exile

Truthfully Coby i'm not sure what direction to steer you since mosty everyone has made valid points.

This ebicycle calculator might give you an idea of what sizes you are looking for.

Personally I would look at name brand bikes probably more mountain bike oriented. It sounds like you are looking for a bike to get exercise with first and foremost with going distances and everything else secondary.

While a MTB may not be ideal for distances, it usually provides a beefy frame, stable geometry, and strong wheels. In this case I think a hardtail might be worth a look. You can always swap tires to slicks while primarily riding on roads. You can also get bar ends or butterfly bars for more hand positions.

Personally I wouldn't go full in new. I would probably look at LBS (Local Bike Shops) that sell used and even Coops. Craigslist might also work.

As mentioned before fit is the most important thing. That plus your willingness to ride. Get a bike that you want to ride and is comfortable and you will have more fun regardless of the activity.

Zoxe

Some very good posts above. I'm going to type like I didn't read them ... I'll be redundant, but maybe something I said and something someone else said will click a little better.

How much would I need to spend on a bike so I can just get cycling?
>> If you're willing to wait a little, you can watch eBay and craigslist for good deals. My brother bought a vintage french-made road bike for $20 at a Police sale that got him started. I don't know exactly what you're after, but I can tell that I spent $425 for my first "real" bike in 2008. I could have paid less, I could have paid more. Tons of people start with walmart bikes, and that's great. Just go ride.

What are some specific things I need to look for in a bike?
>> The fit, the fit, and the fit. If you can get to a store, ride several. At first they'll all feel the same, and you'll feel self conscious being in a biker-snob store. How much do you want to lean over? Do you want to ride upright? A good store will help you find what you want. Tell them you're a first time rider up front, what distances and where you intend to ride and they'll help steer you. (Mind you, they're still SALESMEN so they'll also steer you to what they need to move off the floor, but ultimately they want you to be happy. Just be a little wary, is all).

What are some good brands/models to look into?
>> Start paying attention to bikers as you pass them on the road. The downtubes will start jumping out at you. Trek, Giant, Raleigh, Specialized, Bianchi, Fuji, and Cannondale are the bigger names, and not necessarily in any order. And I of course missed a few. There are mail-order made-in-Asia bikes that you can find online (but again, you need to know your fit, so try to go to a bike shop). There are a ton of smaller builders making top quality stuff.

The product lines are (especially at entry- and mid-lvl) very comparable. The main thing is to find a bike shop you're comfortable with, and buy a brand they support.

What is the regular maintenance needed for a cycling bike?
>> You will get varying answers. If you buy a new bike from a bike shop, they'll want to see it again in 30d or 100 miles for a tune up. This should be free to you. Beyond that, there are a lot of guys that tinker nonstop, and many who don't. If you ride in an area with lots of road hazards (thorns, broken glass, sharp rocks), it'll pay to inspect your tires inch by inch before every ride or two.

Personally, I pump up the tires EVERY time I get on, and I do a shakedown ride every spring to look for loose stuff and moving parts that need adjusted (shifters, brakes). Otherwise, I'm just listening for tinks and clicks that indicate something's wrong.


Are there any fundamental cycling things I should learn at first?
>> Keep watching this forum and you'll learn a lot about hydration, and how to handle longer rides in terms of nutrition. You should google the bike laws for your state and know what they are. ONYERLEFT or ONYERRIGHT is a standard callout from a biker to another biker/jogger/walker on a path to let people know you're there. Most people don't believe in riding with ipods playing.

Getting on your bike: As big guys, we should avoid doing the scoot-scoot-swing-your-leg-over as you push off like we did as kids. It'll kill spokes in your rear wheel. Before you move, straddle the bike, and push off from there.

Hitting bumps: If you're on a bumpy road with skinny-ish tires, stand up and try to equalize/vary the weight front/rear. Our enemy as big guys are busted spokes and pinched-flat tires. Think smooooth as you go over bumpy terrain.

On motivation: Set a schedule and stick with it. Keep a journal if you want. If Monday is bike night, you go biking!

On distances: Starting out, it's okay to go small. Our first ride was 1mi around the subdivision. Guidance I read here long ago was this: Every ride, try to go 10% farther until you get the distance you want. At the beginning the distance won't change much (and it's of course okay to go longer if you wanna), but later on you'll be tacking on multiple miles each ride.

On distance/wk: I read here once that "good things start happening at 50mi/wk." It was true for my wife and I, so I pass it along.

What other equipment/gear would you recommend?
>> Helmet and gloves are a must. Cyclocomputer (odometer/speedometer), although a smartphone w/ gps can work too. Water bottle and cage (maybe 2). If you ride at night you'll want a light set. Spare tubes/patch kit, a mini-tool, and tire changing kit to fit in a seat pouch is cheap insurance. A tire pump for your garage and a carry-along mini-pump to take with you. You don't have to buy all this on day 1, just go ride and you'll figure out how much you'll want to carry with along. You can look at biker shorts (not all of them are spandex), but starting from ground zero wear whatever's comfortable (I used $12 Champion jogging shorts for at least a year).

GOOD LUCK and GO RIDE

Rhodabike

The Kona Jake is a good entry priced cyclocross bike. 'Cross bikes were originally intended to be raced on an off-road coarse, so they will be strong enough for your needs. Classic touring bikes will also do, but they tend to be more expensive and aren't as easy to find.
I second (third?) the recommendation for a good bike shop. If you know a lot about bikes and are handy at repairs, second-hand bikes off Craigslist, eBay, or Kijiji can be a good buy. If you aren't, a shop can save you frustration and take some of the risk out of buying because you can take it back if something isn't quite right. Most shops will take the time to fit the bike to you, changing stems and such if the length isn't quite right.

dwellman

I think I learned something. . .

Coby

Okay so on Sunday I'm going to go to some shops and sit on some cyclocross bikes and maybe give them a test ride just to see if I like the general feel of them and what size I'd need.

And then, due to the prices of them, I think I'm going to order one a Motobecane bike off of Bikes Direct. I've decided that I really only want to spend about $800, and with one of those bikes I could get it and the gear.

Right now I'm looking at this one:
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cross_cx3.htm

What are your guys' thought on it? Would it be good/strong enough for me?

Thanks,
Coby

ill.clyde

I guess I don't understand the singular focus on a cross bike.

This is just my opinion, but a road bike will support you just fine ... it's a viable option for commuting with some additional equipment (panniers, etc) and it's a viable option for straight road riding for fitness/endurance without any additional equipment (and any equipment added on for commuting can be removed easily).

Again, just my opinion ...

I'd love a cross bike ... for doing actual cyclocross.

But if you're primarily going to ride on roads, a cross bike seems counter-intuitive.

JusticeZero

Personally I hate those. I just hear "right!" or "left!" and my immediate reaction is to turn that direction, which means that i'm stepping in front of the bike.. I just say "Passing". Or "Good day".
I'm going to say it again: YOU NEED A TAIL LIGHT! YOU NEED A HEAD LIGHT! Don't be a ninja! Use them any time you're on the road. It drives me absolutely insane when I hear people obsessing over helmets who aren't lit up and reflectored. It's like people obsessing over making sure they have Onstar in their car because of safety, then refusing to wear their seat belts.

Zoxe

Honestly, I do the same. Usually a smile and a "Passing," "Morning," or "Howdie." But I'll also say that I wish I'd been told in advance. The first time I heard ONYERLEFT, I didn't know what the heck was going on.

c_m_shooter

That looks like a decent bike( the orange one will probably be fastest ). That or the Windsor tourist referenced earlier would make for a good start for long distance riding. A lot of people don't like the Sora shifters, so try and find one with them when doing your test rides. If you find a good shop, find out what they would charge to true and tension the wheels for you before you ride it. You should bookmark the Park Tools website for instructions on setting up cantilever brakes and tuning the shifters.

BikeFoz

There isn't going to be one right bike that someone can suggest that is guaranteed to work for you. Ultimately you'll make a decision and just figure it out. Looks like you're doing your best to hopefully get it right the 1st time but only time will tell. I was in your same boat last year and it really comes down to trial and error.

I ended up getting a cyclocross bike after reading myself in circles researching on the Internet about a year ago. I spent about 800 bucks on it. I rode it almost 1000 miles over last summer and liked it at first, but when I got into longer rides in the neighborhood of 50-60 miles I just wasn't digging the way I felt. So, then I got N+1itis and test rode pure rode bikes. Instantly liked them better. Test rode some more. Ended up spending 2,000 on a carbon rode bike when I weight around 275 lb. Like it much more than the cyclocross bike for the riding I do.

I think the ones who have been around this forum and patiently answering questions for years who give the advice, "your 1st bike won't be your last, buy something cheap until you know what you like/don't like/want/need/etc." have it right.

dwellman

I wonder if my first bike (pretty nice Ross) hand't been stolen if I'd still have it? And then, if I knew what I know now, if I'd traded the Centurion Ironman I acquired to replace it for my roomate's C-dale?

Yeah.

Yes I would. But I'd probably also ask for a cash consideration as well.

bautieri

If you can afford the next model up, I'd buy that one for the better drive train. You'll be fine with a carbon fork, they are surprisingly stout.

When you are test riding the bikes, make sure you test out the ones that have a similar saddle to bar drop. IE: are the bars about level with the saddle or below? By roughly how much? If you're looking at a BD bike with an aggressive rider possition (large drop from saddle to bars) make sure the bikes you test out have a similar drop.

Other than that...it's kind of a d|ck move to waste a crap ton of an salesman's time asking 20 million questions, testing every bike, then leaving to go buy online. His time, building, stock, and utilities are not free...so if you do buy a BD bike (and there isn't anything wrong with them) make sure you come back to this shop for your accessories and repairs.

goldfinch

Absolutely. I'd buy the bike from the bike shop. Generally you get a free tuneup or two thrown in. Plus, the LBS where I purchased my bike will adjust derraileurs for free forever. Buy the accessories online.

Coby

Alright. So I'm going to call around some local shops to see what they have. Do you guys think it should be easy to find something in the $700 range?

The a local bike shop will get my business one way or another.

Coby

Okay, so like before, I'm really looking at this bike:

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/..._cross_cx3.htm

It's not expensive, they have it in 64cm, and I like the look of it.

And I know I'm sounding like a broken record. But I just want to clarify one last time. That bike will be strong enough to hold me? I just really want to make sure because its something that worries me.

I'm also looking at this one:

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../bristol_x.htm

But even though I know nothing about bikes, my mind keeps telling me I should stay away from carbon forks. Is that the case though?

I guess I can email them and see what the weight limits are.

bradtx

Coby, Yes, I earlier pointed out the Windsor Tourist primarily for the 36 spoke wheelset, but also because it is a bike designed to keep running with a heavy load. The Bristol is also fine, but I still suggest the Tourist.

You have to realize, and I'm sure you do, that BD bikes are spec'd to meet a price point and final assembly is your responsibility. If you or a friend is going to complete the assembly at least have a local bike shop retension the wheels. One economy step is to use machine assembled wheels and tension is rarely evenly distributed.

I've suggested this bike before https://www.globebikes.com/us/en/glob...?pid=11HaulUS1 . Globe is aligned with Specialized, BTW so it can be found at the Specialized shops. It isn't a very sexy bike, but I think when suggesting a bike to someone else, reliability is paramount.

Brad

PS With a sensible diet and cycling you will lose weight. When you do lose the weight you'll likely get another bike (it's almost a rule ) and it's nice if the 'weight bike' compliments the newer bike.