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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 08-30-11, 10:20 AM   #1
Acasper708
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New Clyde with old bike

So I got a few posts in other sections but I'll post this Q? Here. I'm 6'4" 280lbs and picked up a old 1977 Fuji s10-s. It's all original and in good shape. The frame is a little small so Im gonna need to get a longer setback seatpost cause those old ones a super short. Ive been searching for one but can't find anything in a 25.8. Am I sorta screwed with that size post and just have to get what I can find? Also the hubs and rims are the original suntour set up. The rims are pretty wide for a road bike and hopefully the can take a beating from me. I tend to brake spokes once in a while on my mntnbike. Is there anything I might worry about breaking on this bike? Ive already got it dripped down and plan on getting new tires, chain, grips, and seatpost.
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Old 08-30-11, 10:23 AM   #2
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Old 08-30-11, 10:30 AM   #3
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You may have to do what I did to get a good quality setback seat post that will hold your weight without bending........make your own.

I had a craftsmen that was recommended to me make me a stainless steel bar stock set back seat post to allow me (I weighed 365lbs at the time) to ride my new Worksman cruiser that was a shade to small. The cost wasn't that high and the post is worth the price since now I ride in supreme comfort!

PM me if you want to contact the craftsmen who made my post for me............
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I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.

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Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
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Old 08-30-11, 10:38 AM   #4
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How much did it cost for the custom post? I deffiney have bent a few seatpost on my mntnbike. I also bend seat rails as well. I go through about 1 seat a year. Hopefully the rails on the original Fuji belt seat hold up. I would hate to ruin this seat.
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Old 08-30-11, 11:44 AM   #5
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I have Suntour on both of my bikes and I love the stuff. I upgraded my touring bike to Suntour Superbe Pro and it's wonderful.

From your pictures, I would go with some of the salmon colored Koolstop brake pads. I'm guessing those are mavac center pulls. I wish I had them on my touring bike. They are pretty good for the age. The brake handles will be okay for a while, but I'd switch those out eventually with something that has rubber hood covers so you can lean on them from the top. That will give you some space to stretch out too.

Are your rims Ayara stainless steel or aluminum? I have a set sitting in the garage now that came off one of my bikes. They are really good rims and will handle a lot. Use them till' you wear them out and enjoy them.
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Old 08-30-11, 11:51 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Acasper708 View Post
How much did it cost for the custom post? I deffiney have bent a few seatpost on my mntnbike. I also bend seat rails as well. I go through about 1 seat a year. Hopefully the rails on the original Fuji belt seat hold up. I would hate to ruin this seat.
Like I said........for more exact details PM me for them.
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My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.

Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
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Old 08-30-11, 11:52 AM   #7
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The hubs just say suntour. The rims look and feel like aluminum. The bearing feel good in the hubs for how old they are. I'm plannin on getting some nice lookin brown leather grip/pad.
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Old 08-30-11, 11:54 AM   #8
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It's still got the original dia compe pads and they're in good shape.
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Old 08-30-11, 11:58 AM   #9
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Dia Compe does some nice brakes. Brown leather will look great
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Old 08-30-11, 12:04 PM   #10
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Like I said........for more exact details PM me for them.
He can't until he reaches 50 posts
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Old 08-30-11, 12:35 PM   #11
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Yea I just tried and It denied it. I'm lookin on getting the bike on the road ASAP and as cheap as possible. It already needs a few things and the seatpost I found is only $19. Here it is http://www.bikeparts.com/search_resu...p?ID=BPC302927

Do you think it's strong enough to hold me?

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Old 08-30-11, 01:12 PM   #12
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At 280, you don't need an expensive waste of money custom seat post.

I had a problem with the stock seat post on my tandem. Wouldn't clamp properly. I replaced it with a Kalloy post ($12 at a local shop few years back) worked perfectly and I weigh up to 255 lbs at times.

Jenson has 25.8 seat posts for $17.99

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...+Seatpost.aspx


You might also want to find a longer stem if not a more set back seatpost.
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Old 08-30-11, 01:18 PM   #13
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Yea. I want a setback one but don't see any in that size.
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Old 08-30-11, 01:44 PM   #14
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Yea. I want a setback one but don't see any in that size.
The seatpost in the picture has set back. Maybe you mean something more like the time trial posts with a huge set back. A post like that will set you back quite a bit of cash, your post seems to hint you are on a budget.
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Old 08-30-11, 06:16 PM   #15
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How much did it cost for the custom post? I deffiney have bent a few seatpost on my mntnbike. I also bend seat rails as well. I go through about 1 seat a year. Hopefully the rails on the original Fuji belt seat hold up. I would hate to ruin this seat.
The kind of layback I had made was simply a turned to correct diameter 20" piece of stainless steel bar stock with a radius bend to get you a mounting area for any cruiser type seat (no rails to bend).

I used stainless to avoid the post rusting in place over time. The solid bar stock part is to avoid any bending that will happen with a tube seat post when bent like this. Yes, I know the post is heavy as hell but it won't break under your weight due to the leveraging of the seat backwards on the bike.

Lot's of folk's here don't like the weight but not breaking is way more important to me since I don't want any injury in that area if my fanny!!!!!!

Any good machine shop can bend you a post so good luck with this part of your project.
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My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.

Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
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Old 08-30-11, 08:03 PM   #16
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These are what I buy when I need a seatpost for an older bike (which is most of what I have) in an outdated size. You will have to ask a shop to order it.

http://www.origin-8.com/?page_id=91&...cl1=SEAT+POSTS

Sorry, no setback though.
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Old 08-31-11, 02:13 PM   #17
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It's still got the original dia compe pads and they're in good shape.
When I replaced the original dia compe pads on my bike with Kool Stop Mountain Pads it made a tremendous difference in stopping ability. Just because there's a lot of rubber left on the old pads doesn't mean they're as good as what you can buy now or even as good as they were when new (they harden with age). The thinline pads like the mountain pads, fit the old frames but add a lot of contact area, and the Kool Stop salmon material is said to be better than anything else you can buy.
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