May not be the best place to post this but figured I would ask here since we Clydes have some special needs when it comes to our components. I have the Trek 7.3FX and wonder what if any advantage there would be to upgrading. Right now its a mixmosh of components by the looks of things. I think part of it is me being slightly OCD/crazy wanting matching components. I am sure switching to better components would save on weight for sure and be more reliable. The only real problem I have had thus far is with the stock pedals which have been changed out to clipless shimano. Also if I were to change them out where would I see the biggest difference?
List of current components
Front Derailleur:Shimano M191
Rear Derailleur:Shimano Deore
Shifters:Shimano EF60 trigger 8 Speed
Chainset:Shimano M361 with chainguard
Cassette:SRAM PG-830 11-32 8 Speed
Pedals: Shimano Clipless m540 Upgraded
Front Brake:Avid SD-3 rim brake
Rear Brake:Avid SD-3 rim brake
Brake Levers:Shimano EF60 levers
Handlebars: Bontrager Satellite Plus IsoZone with 25mm rise
Stem: Bontrager SSR with 10 degree rise
Headset: Aheadset Slimstack with semi-cartridge sealed bearings
Grips: Bontrager Satellite IsoZone Elite lock-on ergonomic
Rims: Bontrager Nebula 32 hole rims
Front Hub: Alloy hub
Rear Hub: Shimano RM30 hub
Front Tyre: Bontrager Race all weather hard case 70x32c
Rear Tyre: Bontrager Race all weather hard case 70x32c
Seatpost: Bontrager Nebula
Upgrades based on your list, I'd get a new bike.
Ride it, replace items when they need it and save up for your next bike. I know someone currently swapping out components on a two month old GMC Denali. He's almost got it to full Ultegra (6700 no less) and plans to keep at it till he's changed out everything (currently pondering wheelsets). He will easily have more in to it than had he bought a new, Ultegra-equipped bike and it won't be nearly as nice.
Last edited by CACycling; 09-27-11 at 05:22 PM.
This meeting is now adjourned.
Originally Posted by mgw189
I have the Cannondale Quick4, which is the Cannondale version of the Trek FX7.3. I just bought a true road bike. I agree with those who say don't upgrade, save up for a different bike used for a different purpose. I had done some things to my Quick, including buying slick tires and aerobars to make it more roadie. Pretty much a waste of money. The road bike does road much better. Now my Quick has been returned to stock (well sorta, I put wider tires on it that are good for the local sandy and gravelly roads) and I am happy with it being my knock around bike.
Getting older and slower!
I upgrade when something breaks or wears out. I don't upgrade just to improve my ride.
Components are cheaper when you buy them with the frame. Save and get what you want on the bike in the first place. That's the frugal way to do it.
Tilting with windmills
It starts off innocenlty enough, usually with a wheel set. A wheel set even makes sense because on a bike it's a major cost cutting area to keep a bike's price down. After they lure you in with the wheels set it's not long before you start thinking new brakes would be cool. Then they have you.
Next thing ya know you're hanging out in bike shops asking if they have any shifters or rear derailiuers. Then the unthinkable happens. You find self up at all hours of the night surfing Euro distributer websites and eBay in search of the next component. You no longer socialize with your friends and family because the best deal ever on those new STI's or Ergo's just has to be one click away.
Next thing ya know, you have boxes of group sets and piles of wheels filling up your game room.
Or so I've heard
not as fat as I was
Originally Posted by CACycling
Unless you have money burning a hole in your pocket, I'd recommend losing 5 pounds and ride what you have until things need replacing.
I speak from a point of experience....I recently sold a full carbon/Dura Ace bike and went to a Fuji Newest 1.0. I notice no difference in my performance (Garmin Edge 305 tracked). What I do notice is I don't worry so much about the bike which allows me to ride in worse weather and in places I wouldn't ride before. Advantage, Fuji!
Bringing your wheels up to uniform high tension (110 kgf front and rear drive side is a nice rule of thumb) and stress relieving is a fine idea.
Originally Posted by mgw189
Spokes fail due to fatigue, with the number of cycles (about 750/mile) dependent on variation and average stress.
Variation comes from the fraction of your weight (+ bike weight) that's riding on each wheel. That takes a long time to fix.
Average stress in parts of the elbows of affordable machine-built wheels is extremely high since they were never taken past their elastic limit. That might take a couple of minutes to fix.
Do it now because once you start breaking spokes the rest will follow like popcorn since those in the same set see similar conditions and will also be near the end of their life.
More flat resistant tires can be a good idea.
I just went that route, put a thousand in my mountain bike to make it more road worthy. Outcome was a bike that got 5 pounds lighter but still 24 pounds and a mountain bike. Finally just bought a road bike for 1300 and it is 18 pounds stock and rides much better for the road and mup. The only thing I miss is the mountain gearing for hills, my legs which are a cross between a stork and chicken need more gearing.