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  1. #26
    Senior Member socalrider's Avatar
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    What is your height and inseam to see if the 56 is really too small..

    Save your cash and keep the Cadd3, those were super solid frames. Splurge and get some nice wheels..

  2. #27
    Junior Member Blutarsky's Avatar
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    Wow...I've got a lot of reading to do. Thanks guys, great words and consideration! Just clear up a couple, I *did* say top to bottom 105 components on the 3 - I was making the assumption (I know, I know) the derailleurs, crankset and brakes were the important stuff.

    Here's the funny part, now that bullhorns are hip...
    (The seat has had a major adjustment upward, but otherwise this is how she sits today.)

    33480wn[1].jpg

  3. #28
    Senior Member socalrider's Avatar
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    That bike looks like someone tried to turn there road bike into a triathlon bike. Problem is the seat tube angles are all wrong for doing so. I would replace the stem and bars and check the size, because that does not look like a 56cm frame.

  4. #29
    Junior Member Blutarsky's Avatar
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    6'1", inseam 35" (barefoot.) Question on the points: the stem/bar mounting setup looks different than anything I've seen (take that with a grain of salt) as it is all one piece. As in, the bars mount to a single piece insteam of having a stem that mounts to the bars and the tube. As far as size, it's labeled as 56cm, so I assume it's correct. I will say that the bars are NOT in any way comfortable. They seem tiny as far as diameter, and it feels like I'm holding on to a pencil and trying to do a handstand. The seat has been raised significantly, so it's a bit more comfy as odd as that sounds; it was too straight up for my liking. I'm not a young guy, but all of my motorcycle riding/racing has been in a tuck, so it feels better than sitting straight up.

    Sincei t hasn't been mentioned, I'm assuming the 105 components aren't compatible with the Synapse. I don't really want a new bike, especially just for the novelty of a new bike, there are just a lot of unknowns with a bike this old so mainly I'm trying to figure that out through here and google...

  5. #30
    Junior Member Blutarsky's Avatar
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    Oh boy - when you measure the frame size, where does the measurement stop at the bottom where the frame welds are? This may not be a 56 afterall, but it depends on where that measurement cuts off...

  6. #31
    Senior Member socalrider's Avatar
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    if the parts are 8-9 or 10 speed they will work fine with the synapse. 130mm has been the road standard since the early 90's. Here is a vid on how to measure your frame.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsepwlfQcDA

  7. #32
    Banned. Mr. Beanz's Avatar
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    My bike is a 58 (in picture). Look at the size of the headtube of the orange bike, looks much bigger.

  8. #33
    Senior Member goldfinch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blutarsky View Post
    Wow...I've got a lot of reading to do. Thanks guys, great words and consideration! Just clear up a couple, I *did* say top to bottom 105 components on the 3 - I was making the assumption (I know, I know) the derailleurs, crankset and brakes were the important stuff.

    Here's the funny part, now that bullhorns are hip...
    (The seat has had a major adjustment upward, but otherwise this is how she sits today.)

    33480wn[1].jpg
    That bike is big. It sure looks a lot bigger than Beanz frame. I wonder if they labeled it wrong.

    Tiny wheels too, yes? Maybe it is an illusion from the small wheels?
    Last edited by goldfinch; 10-01-11 at 01:54 PM.

  9. #34
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    I recently wrecked my 1998 CAD2 R200. Wish the bike would have had more damage than me. But I only have a dent in the front wheel and flat front to show... Solid ride, I've had a lot of fun once I took it over from my wife a few years ago. Its a 58cm, I usually have a 60cm. But the top tube and stem are nearly perfect for me. I'm 6'3 and generally well proportioned, not all leg or torso. Solid bike, even 13 years later. Can't wait to get healed and back on that ride.

  10. #35
    Nigel nfmisso's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest View Post
    I could be wrong, but my thought is that 650c vs 700c wheels are going to be very similar in terms of acceleration and aerodynamics. Nfmisso suggested that you should be able to get a bike up to speed more quickly on 650s because you have less weight (at less distance) to spin up, but I think this is offset by having to spin it more quickly. Other people say that smaller wheels are more aero because they have less frontal area, but they have to be pushed harder to cut through the air at their higher rpm rate. My hunch is that both wheel sizes will behave so similarly in these two respects that they aren't good reasons to choose one or the other.....
    Do the math

    Quote Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest View Post
    but they have to be pushed harder to cut through the air at their higher rpm rate
    not true - the aerodynamic drag of the wheel is related to the surface speed of the tread, not the rpm. At a giving road speed, the surface speed of any size tire is the same. Aerodynamic drag is also related to the overall frontal area of the tire. The ISO571 for the same section width, presents 8% less frontal area than a ISO622.

    Racers; just like everyone else; are influenced by Marketing perceptions a great deal more than they are Engineering and Physics.
    Nigel
    Mechanical Design Engineer

  11. #36
    Junior Member Blutarsky's Avatar
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    My bike is big? The tires barely cover my kneecaps...

    I tried a couple of techniques for measuring and came up with the fact that my bike is, indeed, a 56cm. I also tried the pointers to measure self, which turns out is recommended a 58cm leaning towards 60cm.

    But I like the CAAD3. :-)

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