New Brooks B-17 saddle
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New Brooks B-17 saddle
Ok folks. I followed the advice here and installed my new Brooks B-17 yesterday (it was a Christmas gift). I "proofed" the underside and topside as directed by Brooks, made sure the saddle was properly positioned on the bike, and took a few quick spins around the block to make sure it was just right.
Today was was my first real ride with it, and so far, so good. Only 17.6 miles, so I can't say that it was more comfortable than my previous saddle, but I can say that it wasn't uncomfortable.
I plan for a longer ride on Monday (closer to 2 hours) which should give me a better "comfort" indication. I have read from others on this thread that it may take a few hundred miles before it is well broken-in, but I would appreciate any comments & suggestions anyone may have to optimize the experience.
Today was was my first real ride with it, and so far, so good. Only 17.6 miles, so I can't say that it was more comfortable than my previous saddle, but I can say that it wasn't uncomfortable.
I plan for a longer ride on Monday (closer to 2 hours) which should give me a better "comfort" indication. I have read from others on this thread that it may take a few hundred miles before it is well broken-in, but I would appreciate any comments & suggestions anyone may have to optimize the experience.
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just ride more and it will break in.. I would suggest using a level on the saddle to make sure you have it setup correctly.. Most b17 riders benefit from the saddle being tilted up, just a hair.. Eyeballing it does not work.
#3
Uber Goober
When I got my new bike with a Brooks saddle, I started having an issue with personal numbness, and tilting the nose down just a tad took care of that.
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The Brooks are a terrible saddle...I will take it off your hands for you so you don't have to endure the breaking in period . Just so you have a saddle to ride in the meantime I will send you one from Walmart. Sounds like an even exchange to me .
#5
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I'm in the minority, I've never had problem breaking in a Brooks saddle. Do away with the diapers, ride, enjoy!
Marc
Marc
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The 'break in' should be the saddle going from comfortable to incredibly comfortable; remember that. If it's not comfy right from the start, then fiddle with the adjustment of it to find the sweet spot. Sounds like you're off to a good start with it.
I've had a couple of mine for about 6 years and they keep getting better. My B-17 Imperial is coming up on 4 years and close to 20,000 miles; I wouldn't trade it for any other saddle out there.
I've had a couple of mine for about 6 years and they keep getting better. My B-17 Imperial is coming up on 4 years and close to 20,000 miles; I wouldn't trade it for any other saddle out there.
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As you'll note from a couple of previous comments, angle can be critical with a Brooks. I find that the difference between "comfortable" and "call 911" can be less than a degree, so a good two-bolt seatpost is a necessity with them for me.
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Today's ride was 27.6 miles with 110 minutes in the saddle.
Overall, it was quite comfortable, at least as comfy as the saddle that came with the bike.
I did notice that the surface of the saddle was a little "slick", and I found myself shifting forward and back more often than normal, sometimes unintentionally.
I suspect the saddle may need to be moved forward just a little to minimize this. I will make that adjustment before tomorrow's ride.
Thanks for the posts thus far. I have avoided the "911" setting and am looking forward to the "post break-in" experience.
Overall, it was quite comfortable, at least as comfy as the saddle that came with the bike.
I did notice that the surface of the saddle was a little "slick", and I found myself shifting forward and back more often than normal, sometimes unintentionally.
I suspect the saddle may need to be moved forward just a little to minimize this. I will make that adjustment before tomorrow's ride.
Thanks for the posts thus far. I have avoided the "911" setting and am looking forward to the "post break-in" experience.
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to shorten the break in period, soak it overnight-24 hrs, ( 48 for pro model), in water, ride for 2 hrs and let it dry, then treat it with proofhide don't and don't forget the underside i'ts most important
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1) Riding the saddle while wet risks damaging the leather at the rivets
2) Introducing stretch to the leather and having it mould to your shape like a butt orthotic puts more surface in contact with the rider. The point of a suspended leather saddle is to put the rider in proper position on their sit bones and minimize soft tissue compression usually associated with squishy padding-over-plastic saddles.
Of course, that's just my opinion. Heck... Ultradistance legend Lon Haldeman soaks his in motor oil. Sheldon Brown suggested a bath of Neatsfoot oil. I've never been keen of the recommendations of garage alchemy to hasten breaking them in. Outside of their own product, the only things I've ever advocated for Brooks saddles are Sno-Seal or Obenauf's LP, both of which are similar in composition to Proofide.
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SOAK IT AND RUIN IT. Great Advice..
Just dial in the tilt and most comfort issues are resolved.. Brooks saddles are made to last you 20+ years, soaking and trying crazy break in methods can destroy your saddle. You will learn to love that slippery feel, this is what a saddle feels like with no friction.
Just dial in the tilt and most comfort issues are resolved.. Brooks saddles are made to last you 20+ years, soaking and trying crazy break in methods can destroy your saddle. You will learn to love that slippery feel, this is what a saddle feels like with no friction.
#13
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i love mine too even without a chamoix its really comfy!
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racerjim - did you dunk that 40 year old saddle in water - oil - crisco or any other crazy break in method or did you just ride it?
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Thanks for the ongoing advice.
I did not "dunk" my saddle, but did follow the instructions from Brooks to proof it prior to the first ride.
I competely a 47 mile ride on Saturday and am now confident that I have the location and "tilt" properly dialed in.
3 hours in the saddle was not exactly pleasant, but it was very reasonable...and I am not sliding (by accident) any more.
Summary after about 100 miles = already slightly more comfortable than the original saddle.
Looking forward to enhanced long range comfort as breaking in continues.
I did not "dunk" my saddle, but did follow the instructions from Brooks to proof it prior to the first ride.
I competely a 47 mile ride on Saturday and am now confident that I have the location and "tilt" properly dialed in.
3 hours in the saddle was not exactly pleasant, but it was very reasonable...and I am not sliding (by accident) any more.
Summary after about 100 miles = already slightly more comfortable than the original saddle.
Looking forward to enhanced long range comfort as breaking in continues.
#17
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Let alone 40 years.I wont be alive that long anyways
what most people dont want to do is suffer for 1 or 2 years waiting for it to break in
I think some of these break in methods have some merit
Im not rich but I think most people can afford $ 90.00 to 150.00 every 5 years or so
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Keep it up. You're doing just as Brooks intended. Do not "dunk" it in anything. Since youve already proofhidid it then the more you ride it the more comfortable it'll get. Soon you'll start to notice little divets in the saddle where your sit bones are forming and contouring the leather. I have a Brroks 'Pro' with about 10,000 miles on it, and did it the same way you are now.
#19
SuperGimp
Not to be a d***k or an a** but I dont care if my brooks saddle lasts more than 5 years
Let alone 40 years.I wont be alive that long anyways
what most people dont want to do is suffer for 1 or 2 years waiting for it to break in
I think some of these break in methods have some merit
Im not rich but I think most people can afford $ 90.00 to 150.00 every 5 years or so
Let alone 40 years.I wont be alive that long anyways
what most people dont want to do is suffer for 1 or 2 years waiting for it to break in
I think some of these break in methods have some merit
Im not rich but I think most people can afford $ 90.00 to 150.00 every 5 years or so
I'm not afraid of spending money, don't get me wrong, I just don't see any point in standing around burning it.
#20
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Really? You'd intentionally damage something so that you can force yourself to replace it in 5 years? I don't think I've ever had a saddle for less than 5 years, my current one is over 10 and aside from fading, looks fine (not a brooks)
I'm not afraid of spending money, don't get me wrong, I just don't see any point in standing around burning it.
I'm not afraid of spending money, don't get me wrong, I just don't see any point in standing around burning it.
versus walking around with a sore tail for a year you are entitled to think that
but as for myself I think its foolish nonsense life is to short
to wait for a saddle "break" in all the while suffering in pain
and to reiterate again I dont care if your saddle or anybody elses saddle is 10,20,30, or 40 years old and still like new
that mentality reminds me of all the 1955 chevy rust buckets that went to the scrap yards in the late 60"s with perfect seats in them do to the plastic seat covers on them from day one to bad they were never comfortable either but they were old and looked good
Last edited by Bent Bill; 01-16-12 at 08:48 PM. Reason: added text
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While this technique will mould the saddle to your sit bones quicker, I would suggest against it for 2 reasons:
1) Riding the saddle while wet risks damaging the leather at the rivets
2) Introducing stretch to the leather and having it mould to your shape like a butt orthotic puts more surface in contact with the rider. The point of a suspended leather saddle is to put the rider in proper position on their sit bones and minimize soft tissue compression usually associated with squishy padding-over-plastic saddles
Of course, that's just my opinion. Heck... Ultradistance legend Lon Haldeman soaks his in motor oil. Sheldon Brown suggested a bath of Neatsfoot oil. I've never been keen of the recommendations of garage alchemy to hasten breaking them in. Outside of their own product, the only things I've ever advocated for Brooks saddles are Sno-Seal or Obenauf's LP, both of which are similar in composition to Proofide.
1) Riding the saddle while wet risks damaging the leather at the rivets
2) Introducing stretch to the leather and having it mould to your shape like a butt orthotic puts more surface in contact with the rider. The point of a suspended leather saddle is to put the rider in proper position on their sit bones and minimize soft tissue compression usually associated with squishy padding-over-plastic saddles
Of course, that's just my opinion. Heck... Ultradistance legend Lon Haldeman soaks his in motor oil. Sheldon Brown suggested a bath of Neatsfoot oil. I've never been keen of the recommendations of garage alchemy to hasten breaking them in. Outside of their own product, the only things I've ever advocated for Brooks saddles are Sno-Seal or Obenauf's LP, both of which are similar in composition to Proofide.
Last edited by pat5319; 01-21-12 at 08:52 PM.
#22
Senior Member
Well I guess if you consider making a saddle comfortable "now" burning money
versus walking around with a sore tail for a year you are entitled to think that
but as for myself I think its foolish nonsense life is to short
to wait for a saddle "break" in all the while suffering in pain
and to reiterate again I dont care if your saddle or anybody elses saddle is 10,20,30, or 40 years old and still like new
that mentality reminds me of all the 1955 chevy rust buckets that went to the scrap yards in the late 60"s with perfect seats in them do to the plastic seat covers on them from day one to bad they were never comfortable either but they were old and looked good
versus walking around with a sore tail for a year you are entitled to think that
but as for myself I think its foolish nonsense life is to short
to wait for a saddle "break" in all the while suffering in pain
and to reiterate again I dont care if your saddle or anybody elses saddle is 10,20,30, or 40 years old and still like new
that mentality reminds me of all the 1955 chevy rust buckets that went to the scrap yards in the late 60"s with perfect seats in them do to the plastic seat covers on them from day one to bad they were never comfortable either but they were old and looked good
So what were you saying? Oh yes, you live in the land of instant gratification.
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I rode it off and on since 1971 (with significant interludes of storage). I did nothing to it until I took the whole bike (a Schwinn Super Sport that I purchased new) to a local shop last summer for maintenance; they happened to be a Brooks dealer. They rubbed some goop in there, and politely scolded me for my lack of care for the saddle. They also told me to be careful with it, as old, broken in Brooks saddles in decent condition are ripe for larceny.
#24
You gonna eat that?
I rode it off and on since 1971 (with significant interludes of storage). I did nothing to it until I took the whole bike (a Schwinn Super Sport that I purchased new) to a local shop last summer for maintenance; they happened to be a Brooks dealer. They rubbed some goop in there, and politely scolded me for my lack of care for the saddle. They also told me to be careful with it, as old, broken in Brooks saddles in decent condition are ripe for larceny.
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The advice that it should go from "this feels pretty good" when new, to "I don't even think about my backside" when broken in is the takeaway here.
Tweak the angle and fore/aft like you have been doing until you pretty much stay in the same spot on the saddle without any undue numbness or pain. Then ride - it's that simple.
I have B17's on both my bikes and for anything less than 25 miles, i don't even need padded shorts any more - damn good equipment.
Tweak the angle and fore/aft like you have been doing until you pretty much stay in the same spot on the saddle without any undue numbness or pain. Then ride - it's that simple.
I have B17's on both my bikes and for anything less than 25 miles, i don't even need padded shorts any more - damn good equipment.