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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 02-23-12, 06:06 PM   #26
magohn
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Hi Paisan,


Im getting a slight grinding sound from the RD when climbing hills 10% + and ONLY when in the easiest gear (the 36T). Somebody said it might mean the "B" screw needs screwing all the way in. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks for all your help. The switch has made a world of difference to my climbing choices
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Old 02-23-12, 07:22 PM   #27
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give it a try, what's to lose. really. you wind the preload spring around
the upper mount, more, so the guide pulley is not sitting on the chain
which is in physical contact with the cog.. it's just quieter..
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Old 02-23-12, 08:24 PM   #28
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Hi Paisan,


Im getting a slight grinding sound from the RD when climbing hills 10% + and ONLY when in the easiest gear (the 36T). Somebody said it might mean the "B" screw needs screwing all the way in. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks for all your help. The switch has made a world of difference to my climbing choices
Yes you definately need to screw in the B-tension. That sound your hearing is most likely the upper pulley rubbing on the gear in the 36T. If I remember correctly SRAM requires a 5-6mm gap between the biggest gear on the cassette and the top pulley.
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Old 05-27-12, 08:03 PM   #29
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Hi Paisan,

So I had about 700 happy miles on the X9 setup and then this weekend "ping" the derailleur tensioner spring snapped and I had to limp home in first gear. I loved the X9 when it was working but Im hesitant in spending another $60 on a replacement X9 as the net seems full of users who have had the same issue. Do you know of an alternative derailleur that would work with the same setup?

Thanks so much- it was awesome while it lasted
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Old 05-27-12, 08:46 PM   #30
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Oh man, sorry to hear that. I had never heard of that issue but I just did some research and you are correct about the number of complaints. I pulled up this list of recommended deraillers from the SRAM website. It appears that any of the new 10spd MTB Rear Deraillers will work but I would make sure that any RD you buy matches part numbers with the new ones and not one of the older 9 speeds which will not work.
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Old 05-27-12, 08:52 PM   #31
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Thanks Paisan - no apology necessary. My ability to get up hills was drastically improved. I wouldnt change a thing

Thank you for the list - I will take a look but worse case scenario I will chance another X9.

Thanks!
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Old 05-27-12, 09:56 PM   #32
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Thanks Paisan - no apology necessary. My ability to get up hills was drastically improved. I wouldnt change a thing

Thank you for the list - I will take a look but worse case scenario I will chance another X9.

Thanks!
The SRAM 10 speed MTB RD are marked "Exact Actuation". I've had one on our tandem for at least 3000 miles without problem and we shift a great deal, much more than on a single. I did see a number of mentions of spring failures, but these all seemed to occur shortly following the release of the new RD. I don't recall seeing any recent mentions of failure.
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Old 05-28-12, 11:20 AM   #33
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Hi all,
I signed up for an August ride that is 190 miles and some hilly. I ride a stock Roubaix compact with the following setup:

50 x 34t (front)

Shimano 105, 10-speed, 12-27t (rear)

The shifters are SRAM Rival.

I want to 'eek' out every little bit of climbing ability by switching out the rear cassette and derailleur. Possibly something from the MTB range? My biggest question is what is compatible with SRAM Rival "Double Tap" shifters?

I realize the bike is already a 'compact ' setup but I also ride a Trek Fx and find it so much easier on hills even though its a much heavier bike. There must be a cassette that I can switch in to give me a little bit of a boost. I dont want to spend a fortune as its more an experiment than anything.

Any ideas?

Thanks all.
Often changing the front chain ring will do more good than messing with your cassette. Just change the front chainring to smaller number of teeth to put your gearing right down in the cellar for hill climbing.
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Old 05-28-12, 11:37 AM   #34
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Often changing the front chain ring will do more good than messing with your cassette. Just change the front chainring to smaller number of teeth to put your gearing right down in the cellar for hill climbing.
Unless somethings changed recently, 34t is the lowest he can go on a 110bcd crankset.
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Old 05-28-12, 11:41 AM   #35
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A SRAM Apex rear mid cage design derailleur is compatible with an 11-32 cassette as per their site. That should get you up about any hill that you what to conquer.
Assuming this is true (I haven't checked, so am happy to assume it is) then a 34/32 combo should be pretty good for climbing. My cross bike has a 30/32 granny gear and I've taken that up 25% gradients. It was hard work, although if I had to I think I could have gone steeper.
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Old 05-29-12, 10:07 AM   #36
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as far as the comment about not putting apex on a high end bike - tell that to astana and garmin. they do it regularly with sram apex rd's and cogs, including alberto contador's tarmac. but you must be so great that it's too good for you when you ride in the giro for your pro team.

any how, i run the same setup on my climbing bike. sram red everything except rd and cog. i run the medium cage apex rd with the pg1070 11-32 casette on a compact red 50/34. i am somewhat happy with the setup however i rarely find myself in the 28 or 32 cogs and now think i may have been able to run the red rd with an 11-28 and been fine with just the compact crank swap. i'm going to run it thru the season and make a decicion in the fall. fwiw i did a cat 2 climb yesterday and did not use the 32 at all. for the most part i was in 34/25.

for people who come across the thread, sram apex medium cage rear derailleurs with 11-32 cassettes and are completely compatible with all other sram road componenets. it'll take a little fine tuning to get it worked out, but it will work flawlessly. on an existing bike you would need the rd, cassette, and a chain. sram is also planning to release a red medium cage rd this year for the snobs who can't stand to see apex on their ride (ok, to be honest if red was avail i would have used it).
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Old 05-29-12, 01:59 PM   #37
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they already have a rival medium cage, and the 1070 cassette is the "rival" cassette, the apex is the 1050

I am putting apex with the 34/50 crank and the 1050 11-32 cassette on my cross check, Its good enough for me

On top of that I went and did some small climbing yesterday. Did about 1100 feet, and most of it was in one stretch up a local hill. I can tell you at the top I was wishing I had another gear, my 11-28 was making my lungs scream at me.
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Old 05-29-12, 02:35 PM   #38
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My hybrid has an SRAM mtb drivetrain. The front is a 48/34 and the rear is a 11-36t. They're telling me it won't get any easier for hills so I guess I just need to keep working.
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Old 05-29-12, 03:09 PM   #39
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34/36 seems like a pretty low gear, only slightly higher than my 30/32 granny. The MTB has a 22/34 granny gear but being much heavier I've been defeated by hills on the MTB that I've gone up on the cross bike, although I suspect my technique on the MTB left a bit to be desired.
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Old 05-29-12, 03:33 PM   #40
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I just got back from a 34 mile 4200' gain ride that included 2 CAT 5's, 3 CAT 4's and a CAT 2 climb.
I did OK with a 32 on the back but a 36 would have made my cadence more to my liking.
Mashing away in the high 50's low 60's ain't my cup of tea.
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Old 05-29-12, 05:27 PM   #41
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What defines a cat x climb?
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Old 05-29-12, 05:32 PM   #42
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I just got back from a 34 mile 4200' gain ride that included 2 CAT 5's, 3 CAT 4's and a CAT 2 climb.
I did OK with a 32 on the back but a 36 would have made my cadence more to my liking.
Mashing away in the high 50's low 60's ain't my cup of tea.
You think of low 60s as mashing? Wow, you'd hate the way I do big hills
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Old 05-29-12, 05:36 PM   #43
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Unless somethings changed recently, 34t is the lowest he can go on a 110bcd crankset.
TA Specialites makes a 33t 110 bcd chainring, but that's still not going to drop the gear ratio lower than if he even places a one tooth larger 28t cog in the rear. A 32t or 36t will make a much more noticeable difference and is much easier to install than a chainring.
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Old 05-29-12, 05:39 PM   #44
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What defines a cat x climb?
http://www.tourofcalifornia.org/2006...ke-climbs.html
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Old 05-29-12, 05:50 PM   #45
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TA Specialites makes a 33t 110 bcd chainring, but that's still not going to drop the gear ratio lower than if he even places a one tooth larger 28t cog in the rear. A 32t or 36t will make a much more noticeable difference and is much easier to install than a chainring.
Thanks for the info, their website has some interesting stuff for sure.

This is something I might play around with using one of the extra cranks I have laying around.
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Old 05-29-12, 08:08 PM   #46
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I've been trying to figure out whether to switch out my front crank for a SRAM Force Compact or to switch out my rear cassette to an 11-32 & derailleur (to SRAM Apex or Force WiFli in 1 month~) for a good climbing setup. While I do most of my riding on flat terrain I do 1-2 rides (100-200km) on all hills in Wisconsin each year and really love it.

My current setup is a SRAM Force 53/39 front and a 11/26 rear. During last years HHH (Horribly Hill Hundreds) it was brutal, especially on the opening and ending climb and I hated having to walk it. I tried weaving and everything but I just couldn't muster it despite managing every other climb that day without walking.

Anyhow, the rear reconstruction seems to make the most sense financially (not knowing exact WiFli cost for Force) and for general usability given how much I use my bike in the flats. It'll give me good high and low gearing and everything in between. The compact would cause me to lose a lot of my flat gearing which I use a lot on the pancake flat Illinois roads a lot but would give me even more lower ranges.

I'm interested in other Clydesdales thoughts on this thread on what to do.
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Old 05-29-12, 09:34 PM   #47
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epicycle - I was faced with your EXACT situation last month... we have some steep mountains out here and I had a standard force crank with 12-26 on the back.

I found a compact Red crank for about $200 on fleabay and it came with mid compact chainrings as well as the original compact chainrings (so mids are 52/36 and compact are usually 50/34)

I swapped out the cassette for a Force 11-28 and it's been awesome for climbing. With a 52 up front, I really haven't lost anything (actually, by chainging to an 11 cog from a 12, I picked up a lot of gear inches on the top end and I can hit 40 mph while pedaling slightly under 110 rpm.

I only use the 36 chainring when the road gets steeper than 4% and I don't even use the 28 cog until the road gets steeper than 8% or I'm really tired (and then it's a godsend).

Based on the way I pedal, and the actual cogs included, I think I'd probably be better off MOST of the time with a true compact and a 12-28 cassette. If you look at a chart with the gears & cadence vs speed you can figure out where you'll spend most of your time and I think you benefit from having close ratios at those speeds.

The 11/28 includes: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,22,25,28
The 12/28 includes: 12,13,14,15,16,17,19,22,25,28

So you can see you lose a 16 tooth cog and gain an 11.

If you're going 20 mph at 85 rpm, you're in 52x17 and there's a two tooth gap on either side of your chosen gear.
If you're going 20 mph at 85 with a compact and 12-28, you're in the 16 cog, and you have 1 tooth jumps from 12 all the way to 17.

The scenarios get worse as you slow down because there are larger jumps from 19 to 28 on either cassette.

So depending on your normal cruise speed (for me, 18-22 is a respectable top end on flat ground with no wind) you may find that the above makes sense. Obviously, faster riders will want a larger big chainring and for people that NEED to bomb down hills, well, 53 is awesome.

Something to consider when changing out cranks - people are dumping their Red cranks because the new 2012 red is out, and shiny. If you can find a lightly used set, it's a great deal. If you buy a crank with chewed up chainrings, you'll be buying new chainrings soon enough and a set of those is $140 or so, so not much of a good deal.
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