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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 01-30-12, 08:05 PM   #1
floatsinwater
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Please Help with my Fitting!

Hey everyone, this is my first post here. I just got into cycling again and I noticed that my uh.. body isn't what it used to be

Anyhow, I noticed that fit is a lot more important now that my body isn't as forgiving as it used to be. I know that the "proper" thing to do is to go to a LBS, but to be honest I'm pretty much flat broke from buying the bike and accessories (used of course).

I recently flipped the stem, since I was on the drops all the time and the hoods seemed a tad high. Now, the fit on the hoods seem very good, but when I go on the drops my thigh pushes against my stomach.

Is this more of a fit problem or a spare tire problem? Also, is there anything else wrong with my fit?









Sorry for the blurry image... the video didn't capture well...
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Old 01-30-12, 08:07 PM   #2
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Seat post is about 1 inch too high.
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Old 01-30-12, 08:10 PM   #3
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Yep, seat is too high, as your legs are straight. They need to be slightly bent.
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Old 01-30-12, 08:20 PM   #4
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Hmm... I'll try again with a lower seat. Thanks guys!

Is the seat fore/aft position OK?
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Old 01-30-12, 09:18 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by floatsinwater View Post
Hmm... I'll try again with a lower seat. Thanks guys!

Is the seat fore/aft position OK?

Hard to tell by looking at the pics. I really suggest you go to your LBS and pay a small fee ($25) or so to have your bike professionally fitted to your body.
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Old 01-30-12, 09:20 PM   #6
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Hmm... I'll try again with a lower seat. Thanks guys!

Is the seat fore/aft position OK?
The pictures you provided are not of good enough detail to tell. But here's instructions so you can do it yourself:
Lean against a wall with the pedals at the 3 and 9 oclock positions, then drop a plumb(on the pedal at the 3 oclock) from either the tip of your knee cap or the bony bump sticking out below your knee cap. The line from your knee cap should intersect the end of your crank arm. The line from the bony part below your knee cap should intersect your pedal axle.

Either one of those methods will get you to a good neutral starting point. Many people then go forward or back from there. Don't forget to recheck your seat height after making any fore/aft adjustments because you are essentially lowering or raising it by moving the seat fore/aft
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Old 01-30-12, 09:29 PM   #7
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Saddle is too high. Did you notice your hips rocking as you rode? Also, your belly hitting your thighs might be caused by the saddle height if you are swaying side to side.

Saddle position front to back looks OK for me, but I'm not an expert. I see a bend in the arms; are you tense or loose when pedaling?

How is your core strength? Core flexibility?
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Old 01-30-12, 09:47 PM   #8
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Saddle position front to back looks OK for me, but I'm not an expert.
Just curious how you were able to tell fore/aft saddle position without the use of dropping a plumb nor having a picture with the pedals in the correct position?
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Old 01-30-12, 11:48 PM   #9
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Well I did look around for some prices for fittings, and the cheapest price was $75, while a more "professional" fitting was $175+. Since I'm not really looking to win any races or anything, I just can't justify spending that much cash when I'm already pretty broke.

I did try the KOPS method with a plumb but I honestly can't seem to tell the difference in efficiency between dead on, 1cm forward, and 1cm back, other than I seem to be pedaling at a slightly different angle.

I'm not really sure about my core strength or flexibility, but I did just do 50mi with 80% on drops with no pain or discomfort with my goofy setup.

I just dropped the saddle about 2cm, so I'm eager to see if it makes my thigh-hittin-belly problem better or worse
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Old 02-02-12, 08:15 PM   #10
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Well it took a little while to get used to the lower seat position, but it seems my posture is getting a little better. I seem to point my toes as a habit...





I just noticed how flabby my arms are in the wind... I guess no sleeveless shirts for a while My arms are actually very slightly bent...
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Old 02-02-12, 08:35 PM   #11
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Yeah, that looks better. Do you always ride with your hands on the drops? I don't...unless I am going downhill and want to pick up speed. You can turn the bars up and rest your hands on the brifters.
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Old 02-02-12, 10:06 PM   #12
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It's hard to tell but in the earlier pics were your pedals under the balls of your feet? It looks like your feet were a little further back on the pedal the second time around.

Ditch the cargo shorts.

Well, wear something else in their place, don't just ditch them. I don't think the world is ready to see you scooting down the boulevard au naturel.

And I like your bike - it looks sharp.
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Old 02-02-12, 11:40 PM   #13
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My first bike back when I was a kid was a vintage road bike with downtube shifters so I'm more used to being on the drops for easier shifting.

I usually don't wear my cycling stuff to work since I'm self-conscious when I go out to eat lunch. plus it was laundry day... either this or my flannel pajamas. I rode in my cycling shoes today so I can get a better sense of the fit so that might be why there's a difference.
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Old 02-03-12, 02:45 AM   #14
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This is something easy to try but I'd rotate the handlebars up a little and see if it feels better. Easy to undo if it doesn't work out.
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Old 02-03-12, 04:44 PM   #15
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Well, if that's your work attire then I guess you're fine. You could always bring work clothes in a small backpack. Back when I commuted to work (loooooong time ago, it's 60 miles now) I'd either leave a stash of clothes at work or bring them. Whatever works best for you though!
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