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  1. #1
    Zeusmeatball Push's Avatar
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    Changing suspension fork to a rigid, issue for a clyde?

    Since buying my X-caliber last year My K2 has not had much saddle time when it comes to the rail trails and I am fine with that but its got me thinking.

    My trusty K2 Zed is right now suckin up trainer duty and is wearing a slick on the back and because I don't like not having options I bought a Rhyno lite wheelset to set up for when I feel like taking an actual ride on the K2 (should be here Monday) I am mounting some WTB Graffiti SF 2.2 tires on the new wheels and bought a SRAM PG-850 cassette for them and I am happy with what I am getting away with for a price on the entire wheelset.

    I have put more into this bike than some would (for some reason I have had some people hate on K2 bikes) but the frame fits me perfectly so any upgrades are well worth it for me. The X4 shifters and entire brake set up is really the only components on the bike that are still stock at this point and I figure that I got it as close to something that fits me and the type of riding that I do as I can besides one thing.

    Now that I bored you with all of the details of my bicycle and new wheels, lets get to my question.

    The K2 is seeing less and less trail time and I think that I want to use it for on road adventures (towing my girls in the trailer, pulling the Adams trail a bike etc) The Graffiti tires are geared more towards riding in an urban environment and since I don't really need a suspension fork for the kind of riding I will be doing I was thinking about mounting a rigid fork to this one of my favorite bikes. The bike will see random rides on the rail trail and short sections of grass/gravel etc via short cuts but otherwise the plan will be to use this bike for when I am not going to go off road much.

    Ok, now I will really ask the question

    Are there any reasons that mounting a rigid CroMoly fork (Surly Instigator) onto the aluminum frame would be a bad idea? I mostly ask because of my clyde status and I would hate to make something that would be not safe.

    what say you?

    Any and all info, help, advice or ridiculing is welcomed
    My weight loss & fitness blog, I lost more than 200 pounds so far!
    My new weight loss blog more centered around bicycling.
    My rides
    1976 Motobecane Nomade Sprint
    1988 Specialized Rockhopper comp
    1991 Schwinn Crisscross
    2009 K2 Zed 3.2
    2011 Trek X-Caliber Gary Fisher collection

    "Sometimes nothing can be a real cool hand"
    ~Paul Newman as Cool hand Luke~

  2. #2
    Senior Member CACycling's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good solution for you. There isn't an issue with putting a steel fork on an AL bike. In fact, there are a number of AL bikes that come with a steel fork. My MTB is full rigid and works awesome on everything from pavement to light trails.

  3. #3
    Senior Member recumbenttoad's Avatar
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    I had a Nashbar cro-mo suspension corrected fork laying around for a long time (I got it cheap) and decided to put a bike together with a bunch of parts I had laying around. So, I bought a Nashbar aluminum mountain frame (again, cheap) and built a bike. The only thing that I don't like is the fact that the fork has an axle to crown measurement of 453mm and makes the bike kind of floppy in the front end.

    I had drop bars on it at first and hated it. Then I put some straight bars on it (and I mean straight - no rise, no sweep) and it was better but not great. Then I put some bars on it that have some rise and sweep and ended up really liking it. Most people would think it handles weird, but for me it works. And, no problems with cro-mo fork and aluminum frame. Lots of manufacturers do that.

    I would make sure you get a fork with the correct axle to crown length to keep your bike handling like it does now, though.
    My name is a thread killing word.

  4. #4
    Zeusmeatball Push's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by recumbenttoad View Post
    I had a Nashbar cro-mo suspension corrected fork laying around for a long time (I got it cheap) and decided to put a bike together with a bunch of parts I had laying around. So, I bought a Nashbar aluminum mountain frame (again, cheap) and built a bike. The only thing that I don't like is the fact that the fork has an axle to crown measurement of 453mm and makes the bike kind of floppy in the front end.

    I had drop bars on it at first and hated it. Then I put some straight bars on it (and I mean straight - no rise, no sweep) and it was better but not great. Then I put some bars on it that have some rise and sweep and ended up really liking it. Most people would think it handles weird, but for me it works. And, no problems with cro-mo fork and aluminum frame. Lots of manufacturers do that.

    I would make sure you get a fork with the correct axle to crown length to keep your bike handling like it does now, though.
    The axle to crown is about 19 inches on the K2 with no rider, when I am on the bike in a riding position it is slightly more than 17 inches, maybe 17 & 1/8th-ish (My wife measured with a tape and eye balled it), The Instigator fork says that the A2C is 447MM or 17.59 inches which is just about 1/2 inch difference, The Surly fork falls between the travel of the current fork so should work almost perfect in regards to the axle to crown length I think

    I have a Sunline XC-1 stem and a set of Bontrager big sweep 12* sweep bars (same bars that came stock with my Xcal, I LOVE them so decided to get some for the K2) I am planning on putting them on along with the fork (if I decide to go with a rigid its mostly a good idea at the moment) and because pictures are always fun

    My weight loss & fitness blog, I lost more than 200 pounds so far!
    My new weight loss blog more centered around bicycling.
    My rides
    1976 Motobecane Nomade Sprint
    1988 Specialized Rockhopper comp
    1991 Schwinn Crisscross
    2009 K2 Zed 3.2
    2011 Trek X-Caliber Gary Fisher collection

    "Sometimes nothing can be a real cool hand"
    ~Paul Newman as Cool hand Luke~

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