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Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

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Old 04-19-12, 09:56 AM   #1
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I mades me some new stands

Changed my design a little. Made one for me and one for my Neighbor who just got a new bike.

More photos here: http://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
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Old 04-19-12, 10:41 AM   #2
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Changed my design a little. Made one for me and one for my Neighbor who just got a new bike.

More photos here: http://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
Cool! Is that just pvc pipe? How did you get the logo on it?
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Old 04-19-12, 10:47 AM   #3
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I think if you want it to look like an official trek stand, you will need to squeeze about 14 more trek logos on there.

Looks sharp though, I'm just squeamish about putting my delicate roadie tires into something like that (I have a similar one I bought at target for my old bike)

Hm... I wonder if I could pirate your concept and instead of putting a closed loop on top, put a 90 degree corner on it at about axle height and cut the top out to make a place to rest the rear wheel skewer. Hm.
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Old 04-19-12, 07:44 PM   #4
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Cool! Is that just pvc pipe? How did you get the logo on it?
Yep, just PVC. It helps to have a Vinyl cutter for the graphics

The four lower arms are filled with sand, and sealed with Hot Glue before gluing with PVC cement and then the extra screws. Gives it some weight.
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Old 04-19-12, 07:45 PM   #5
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Looks sharp though, I'm just squeamish about putting my delicate roadie tires into something like that (I have a similar one I bought at target for my old bike)
Why? Not sure why you think it would be a problem.
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Old 04-19-12, 08:27 PM   #6
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I like it, but why the screws?
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Old 04-19-12, 08:36 PM   #7
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Pretty SHWEET!
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Old 04-19-12, 08:43 PM   #8
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There comes a time in every man's life when he has to make a stand.
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Old 04-19-12, 10:02 PM   #9
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Why? Not sure why you think it would be a problem.
No idea, just an unreasonable gut feeling - probably related to the shorter version I have in my possession tha tlets the bike lean a little bit and put pressure on teh wheel. Yours definitely looks better.
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Old 04-20-12, 07:29 AM   #10
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I like it, but why the screws?
The glue joints sometimes break loose over time from flexing. Just makes it secure forever!
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Old 04-20-12, 07:32 AM   #11
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No idea, just an unreasonable gut feeling - probably related to the shorter version I have in my possession tha tlets the bike lean a little bit and put pressure on teh wheel. Yours definitely looks better.
It is VERY sturdy, and you can swing the bike to the side quite a bit before it becomes unsteady. Always steady if the back wheel is in. I'll post the complete list of parts needed later.

This is a modified version of my first one. I'm using a 4-way junction that has the uprights, and that gives added support with feet so it doesn't sag over time.

HINT: If you are going to paint it (it is painted white), remove all the manufacturers writing, as it bleeds through the paint (or prime it). I used enamel reducer and got all the writing off. Also, don't be too sloppy with the purple pipe prep stuff, it shows through also.
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Old 04-20-12, 07:51 AM   #12
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Changed my design a little. Made one for me and one for my Neighbor who just got a new bike.

More photos here: http://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
Your stand is nice but I suggest you do not put the front wheel in it. I cannot tell you the number of bikes I have seen in the last year of volunteering at my local coop that have a front wheel taco from stands like yours. Even heavy wheels come in folded in half from the bike falling over in bike rack. Even a light rack like yours could seriously torque a your front wheel. Put the bike in rear wheel first. It has less of a chance of damaging the wheel.
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Old 04-20-12, 08:40 AM   #13
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Very nice job, especially the graphics.
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Old 04-20-12, 08:42 AM   #14
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Im stealing your idea now.
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Old 04-20-12, 03:03 PM   #15
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Your stand is nice but I suggest you do not put the front wheel in it. I cannot tell you the number of bikes I have seen in the last year of volunteering at my local coop that have a front wheel taco from stands like yours. Even heavy wheels come in folded in half from the bike falling over in bike rack. Even a light rack like yours could seriously torque a your front wheel. Put the bike in rear wheel first. It has less of a chance of damaging the wheel.
I still don't understand how that happens. Not like I'm sitting on it in the stand. I've been using these for 5+ years and never had an issue. I must not understand what your are saying. Anyway, I use it both ways, mostly front wheel in.
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Old 04-20-12, 03:52 PM   #16
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There comes a time in every man's life when he has to make a stand.
Thanks, I needed a laugh like this! Well done!
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Old 04-20-12, 04:02 PM   #17
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Thanks, I needed a laugh like this! Well done!
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Old 04-20-12, 04:08 PM   #18
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I still don't understand how that happens. Not like I'm sitting on it in the stand. I've been using these for 5+ years and never had an issue. I must not understand what your are saying. Anyway, I use it both ways, mostly front wheel in.
I was wondering why you had the front wheel in the rack (OP picture). I've never seen a wheel taco but just seems more stable back end first.

I've been at rest stops when other riders show up tyring to stick in the front first having problems. I'll suggest they go rear first then they laugh and say wow so much easier.

Single rack like yours no problem iff that's what you like but in public racks, I want my bike to be stable cause you never know which Bozo is going to bump your bike off the rack. The front end's ability to swing is a little unstable IMO.
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Old 04-20-12, 04:33 PM   #19
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...
I figured you would have stuck with hamburger grills but the stand is pretty nice too.
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Old 04-20-12, 04:46 PM   #20
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Also, don't be too sloppy with the purple pipe prep stuff, it shows through also.
The purple cement is awesome, however, you're not gluing this to hold 300psi. You just need it to glue the pieces together. To keep the job neat, only apply the glue to the inside of the receiving joints, then twist the un-glued pipe as you insert it, distributing the glue evenly. It you apply the glue to the pipe before inserting it, the receiving joint will "squeegee" the glue off the pipe and make a mess.
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Old 04-20-12, 04:51 PM   #21
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Nice job - I paid $100 for a "double stand" from REI that's useless. The thing falls over when I mount my Trek Fx on it.

Yours looks far more stable.
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Old 04-20-12, 05:13 PM   #22
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Although your rack looks much cooler, I payed only $10 for this at a local LBS a while back. They had a whole trash can full of them.

Crank arm slips into a slot.

Pardon the dust, we haven't been on the tandem for a while.


stand by mrbeanz1, on Flickr
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Old 04-20-12, 05:15 PM   #23
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Now I want to make one myself.
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Old 04-20-12, 10:04 PM   #24
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How to build a stand.

Okay, enough interest, so here is how to build your own bike stand. If you want to have one for a Mtn. bike or something with a wider tire, just make three of the 1-3/4” couplers 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 inches long and use these where the centers come together.
Here is a list of needed parts to build the stands.
  • (1) 10’ ” PVC (they sell 5’ lengths, but I just got 10’ and cut it in half at the store so easier to carry, and cheaper)
  • (4) ” T’s
  • (6) ” 90 Degree Elbows
  • (6) ” End Caps
  • (2) ” 4-way connectors
  • PVC Glue
  • Pipe Cutter (Optional $8 but better than a Hacksaw!)
  • Sand (Optional, but makes it sturdy)
  • Pack of 50 #10 Sheet Metal Screws (optional)
  • Hot Glue, Epoxy, or something to hold the sand in.
  • Paint (Optional)
Directions
Do all of your cutting first. Start with the longer pieces and work your way down. Here are the cuts you need:
  • (2) 24” Lengths – Uprights
  • (4) 7” Lengths – Outriggers
  • (2 ) 13” Lengths – Centers
  • (9) 1-3/4” connecters – Connects elbows to caps, etc.
Make the Outriggers first. Put the Elbows on the 7” lengths, then the connectors in the elbows, then the caps on the end. A mallet or hammer comes in handy. With the glue wet, be quick to get the parts fully inserted before the glue sets up, and believe me, it sets fast!

Now fill these with sand, tapping them as you fill them to get as much in as possible. Leave about ” at the top with no sand. I used Hot Glue on these last ones to plug the ends. Hot Glue is so much easier than epoxy, and sets up fast. This keeps the sand in place. You could fill the whole assembly with sand, but that would be overkill. You especially don’t want the uprights filled, as you want the weight low.

Next I put the Outriggers in the T’s, and the T’s together. Then you can make sure they are straight by laying them on the floor and make sure the feet line up. At this point the front and back is the same.

Assemble the Upright Support by putting end caps on one fitting on the 4-way coupler. Now mate this with couplers to the front Outriggers. You will notice it is free standing now.

Now glue the 13” Centers to the 4-way coupler. Now glue the rear outriggers to the two centers.

Finally, using two elbows and the 24” pieces, create the upright by itself. I found it much easier to put the Elbows on the two Uprights, and then glue the two Elbows together with a 1-3/4” coupler. Do this last, because once you put it together, you can lay it on the floor, and make sure they are aligned before the glue sets up.

Now you have to make a decision. Do you want to remove the uprights for transport or storage? If yes, sand the holes on the 4-way coupler, and the ends of the uprights. You need to make the fit a little looser. I also put some Lithium grease in the holes. When you want to remove the upright, just grab the top, where the two elbows meet, and twist a few times while pulling up.

This is optional: I put one ” sheet metal screw in each connection. Over time, flexing the stand will break the glue joints. I guess plumbing fixtures don’t get stressed this much. It won’t fall to pieces if you don’t do this, but it will get loose over time. You can always re-glue it, but I just used the screws and it will never come apart. I drilled small pilot holes first, made it much easier.

Now just paint it, decal it, or leave it alone! Go ride! If you do paint it, clean the PVC lettering off with Enamel Reducer (not much, it eats PVC), sand and paint. The lettering tends to bleed through white paint. Darker paint does not matter. I like it painted white, so if it gets banged around, under the white paint is white PVC, it won’t show. If you want some decals, contact me. I can’t do it for free, but cheaper than a printing shop I’m sure.

Use at your own risk (had to say that). If the bike is in the stand somewhat straight, it will never fall over. But swing the back of the bike off to the side a foot or more, and it can become unstable. Put the back wheel in, and you don't have this problem.

Sure makes it easier airing up the tires too.

Questions? Ask away. I can't claim coming up with this, but I feel I have perfected it to my liking over the years. I have a lot of happy friends with them too.
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Build a bike stand! http://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html

Last edited by gforeman; 04-21-12 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 04-21-12, 06:05 AM   #25
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Cool beans, thanks.
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