Clip-less pedals for big guys
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Clip-less pedals for big guys
I'm about to replace my clip-less pedals and wonder if you have any recommendations for me. I'm 6'10" and 245 pounds. I have ridden a pair of Looks for years, but recently read a review on the Keo that the shaft snapped under a big guy (same weight) after a short time. Thanks for your suggestions.
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I like my Shimano Dual Platform pedals. Best of both worlds.
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A53...5018408&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A53...5018408&sr=8-2
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Gary F.
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Build a bike stand! https://www.gwfweb.com/bicycles/stands.html
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Yep, those A530's are a good and solid pedal, especially if you also use the bike on shorter trips with normal shoes. Weight or size shouldn't be an issue with pedals, it's about how much power you use and the only thing that can break is the axle and for me it's always been because of faulty molding.
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If you're looking for road pedals, I'd suggest either shimano 105 or ultegra pedals.
I have both and they hold up to my now 290lbs just fine.
Easy in and out, and the cleats are the easiest road cleats to walk in.
I have both and they hold up to my now 290lbs just fine.
Easy in and out, and the cleats are the easiest road cleats to walk in.
#6
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Any of the speedplay pedals (except for the Ti models) will work fine for you, if you want to get into pedaling on ice cubes.
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Not sure what to recommend since you don't say why you're leaving your current Looks. What are you looking for? What's working and not working for you now? Are you willing to go with new shoes or no? More info, please.
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I'm about to replace my clip-less pedals and wonder if you have any recommendations for me. I'm 6'10" and 245 pounds. I have ridden a pair of Looks for years, but recently read a review on the Keo that the shaft snapped under a big guy (same weight) after a short time. Thanks for your suggestions.
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Yeah, thanks guys. I would like to keep my three-hole Shimano shoes. My current Look pedals are grinding and creaking after 12 years of faithful service. When I looked at the Speedplay pedals, the recommended max weight of the rider was 185 lbs. The review for the Keo was from this past year. Dehoff, you may be right on about the warranty.
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In that case, if you don't want to change from the three-bolt delta style, I'd say Shimano 105 or Ultegra, or if budget is a concern, one of Performance's or Nashbar's house-brand Look-compatible pedals. I've been using one of Nashbar's $40 chromoly models successfully for almost a year now. I don't know about any published weight limits, but I've been riding them at weights ranging from 190 to 210 without any problems.
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If you prefer the look style pedal, i would lean you toward the Shimano SPD-L Ultegta 6700C pedal.
I ride the Shimano PD-A600 SPD pedal, which uses the same bearing cartridge design as the 6700C, and have had no issues with it at all. The bearing is a needle/roller type bearing that sits directly under the pedal base. So all of the weight is directly onto the bearing. In the 6620 Ultegra, or 105 pedals, the bearing is at the collar of the pedal shaft were it attaches to the crank. So there is an uneven sheering load on the bearing, and with a heavier rider, they are more prone to failure. Im sure someone will chime in with "my 105's have never failed me", and thats fine and dandy. But mechanically, they are not as good of a design, and more importantly, you may not ride as hard as i do, and suffered the same bearing failures with 105 pedals as i have. Ive got about 5000 miles on my A600, and while they look a bit beat up, they have never given me a problem.
I ride the Shimano PD-A600 SPD pedal, which uses the same bearing cartridge design as the 6700C, and have had no issues with it at all. The bearing is a needle/roller type bearing that sits directly under the pedal base. So all of the weight is directly onto the bearing. In the 6620 Ultegra, or 105 pedals, the bearing is at the collar of the pedal shaft were it attaches to the crank. So there is an uneven sheering load on the bearing, and with a heavier rider, they are more prone to failure. Im sure someone will chime in with "my 105's have never failed me", and thats fine and dandy. But mechanically, they are not as good of a design, and more importantly, you may not ride as hard as i do, and suffered the same bearing failures with 105 pedals as i have. Ive got about 5000 miles on my A600, and while they look a bit beat up, they have never given me a problem.
Last edited by Buck_O; 04-23-12 at 04:43 PM.
#12
SuperGimp
With respect to max weight, you must have been looking at the Ti shafted speedplays - they are restricted (which is why I don't use them either).
I used stainless X-2 pedals and then stainless light actions for years at 230-240 or so, no issues.
I used stainless X-2 pedals and then stainless light actions for years at 230-240 or so, no issues.
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I echo several others in recommending SPD-SL pedals. 105 or Ultegra. I used to be the same weight as you ( now a lot lighter and still use them). 6" shorter though.
#14
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Shimano PD-R540s for me on both my road and track bikes. I do lots of standing start stuff on the track bike and I have so far not had a problem in 2 years of use and abuse. The road pedals are just as old, cop less abuse in terms of the starts, but are exposed to the elements much more. I was tipping the scales at 140kg and am now hovering around 120kg.
Take a look at the spec sheets for the different Shimano pedals if you're interested. The only real gain you get when going from the 540s to the 105s and Ultegras is different materials used. The critical internals like the bearings only change when you go up to the DuraAce pedals.
Take a look at the spec sheets for the different Shimano pedals if you're interested. The only real gain you get when going from the 540s to the 105s and Ultegras is different materials used. The critical internals like the bearings only change when you go up to the DuraAce pedals.
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After reading all this I replaced my 105 s with speed play stainless zero's
Did a ride yesterday and think I like them. Sill didn't always clip as fast as I would have liked bit did better than the 105s and I am sure with more practice I will get better
Did a ride yesterday and think I like them. Sill didn't always clip as fast as I would have liked bit did better than the 105s and I am sure with more practice I will get better
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+1 on the Shimano dual sided pedals. I've got them on both my touring and my road bike. When I'm in traffic or downtown where I'm making frequent stops, dealing with pedestrians, etc. I'll clip out and flip the pedals over and ride them flat. When I'm on open road, I clip back in. It's taking a while, but I'm training myself to always leave the pedal heel first even when not clipped in to avoid confusion about which side of the pedal I'm on. I'm fairly new to clipless and still have the occassional "Oh crap" moment but have only tipped over once at a stop (paid the only witness $5 to keep his mouth shut). Just curious, but for rider who ride SPDs, how long did it take before clipping out became completely instinctive?
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unconcious unclipping with clipless pedals
My problem is I am automatic at unclipping my left foot. I ALWAYS unclip my left foot. If something odd happens so my balance is upset and I am tipped to the right with my right foot at the top of the circle I am in trouble and have almost gone over because of that. Typically that happens if a person pulls up too close to my left side as I'm about to unclip (kid, dog, whatever) and I'm forced to put my right foot down at the last moment. Very unnerving...
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great question. I'm guessing it took me a few weeks but that's really hard to remember. I do know that after getting a new pair of shoes that oriented a bit differently it took me a long time...several weeks or a month or more before I was getting on the bike and being clipped in without looking at the pedal or giving it any thought. I'm finally at the point where I swing my leg over, clip in, push off and my other foot clips in without me looking down or thinking about it. My only failure to get unclipped in recent years was when my cleat loosened and I turned my foot but the cleat didn't move with it. Down I went without realizing what had happened. Back on the bike it happened again with a big WTF ? from me till I figured it out.
My problem is I am automatic at unclipping my left foot. I ALWAYS unclip my left foot. If something odd happens so my balance is upset and I am tipped to the right with my right foot at the top of the circle I am in trouble and have almost gone over because of that. Typically that happens if a person pulls up too close to my left side as I'm about to unclip (kid, dog, whatever) and I'm forced to put my right foot down at the last moment. Very unnerving...
My problem is I am automatic at unclipping my left foot. I ALWAYS unclip my left foot. If something odd happens so my balance is upset and I am tipped to the right with my right foot at the top of the circle I am in trouble and have almost gone over because of that. Typically that happens if a person pulls up too close to my left side as I'm about to unclip (kid, dog, whatever) and I'm forced to put my right foot down at the last moment. Very unnerving...
I had just installed cleats on a new pair of shoes with my 2 year old and 6 month old kids providing "assistance" and allowing my undivided attention to make sure I had tightened the cleats on both shoes. After about a 25 mile ride I pulled into the driveway and slowed down in front of my garage to only realize that I couldn't unclip my left foot. I tried everything, even having my foot almost at a 90 degree angle, but the cleat still wouldn't release. I ended up suffering a zero mph crash, luckily with no injuries other than my pride.
#20
Senior Member
Just took the plunge on a pair of Shimano mountain bike shoes. I'll be getting the dual sided pedals soon, hoping for the best.