Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg) Looking to lose that spare tire? Ideal weight 200+? Frustrated being a large cyclist in a sport geared for the ultra-light? Learn about the bikes and parts that can take the abuse of a heavier cyclist, how to keep your body going while losing the weight, and get support from others who've been successful.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-28-12, 05:49 PM   #1
Axiom
Fat Cyclist
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Bikes: '11 Cannondale SuperSix Dura-Ace
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Budget Clyde Wheel

I am on a budget and I need a new rear wheel. Clearly the stock rear wheel that comes with the Trek 1.2 can't handle my 270lbs so I need something sturdy. I'd like one that is strong enough that it can take a bit of a beating since I use the 1.2 as a commuter and trainer bike. Weight isn't really an issue since I am not a "weight weenie" but price is. The LBS told me their cheapest wheel would cost $105 and they are machine built, and a hand built wheel would cost $250, which I cannot afford right now. Any recommendations? I *might* purchase a front wheel as well, but I am not sure.

Thanks!

Last edited by Axiom; 04-28-12 at 05:55 PM.
Axiom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-12, 06:19 PM   #2
vesteroid
Climbers Apprentice
 
vesteroid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Bikes:
Posts: 1,608
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Hit eBay or a discount site like nashbar
vesteroid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-12, 06:33 PM   #3
dehoff
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Fargo, ND
Bikes:
Posts: 189
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If the front wheel isn't giving you any issues, DON'T worry about replacing it. If funds are tight, take the extra money that you may have put towards the front wheel and put towards a better quality rear. Approximately 60% of the weight is on the rear wheel, and it's already weaker due to having that pesky cassette installed on one side.

There are some sites that have fairly inexpensive handbuilt wheels like Bicycle Wheel Warehouse (although their site is down currently) and looking at ProWheelBuilder.com you can get a 36 hole, 3 cross Velocity Deep V with a Velocity hub and DT Swiss Comp spokes with brass nipples rear wheel for $199. That should be a fairly stout wheel for you without a lot of compromises.

I'd wait and save enough money for a handbuilt wheel. Don't buy a cheap rear wheel now when you'll probably end up buying the better wheel once that machine built wheel has the same issues as you're having now.

Buy cheap or buy once. Your choice.

Last edited by dehoff; 04-28-12 at 06:37 PM.
dehoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-12, 07:09 PM   #4
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Posts: 3,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
If the front isn't giving your grief, get over any asthetics issues you have about mismatched wheelsets (I've had to). Replace just the rear. The difference between a machine built and hand built wheel can be minimized by running the machine built one through several revolutions of stress relieving and retensioning (with a gauge). Given your tight budget, I would focus mostly on the rim and spokes and if really need be, save money on the hub. A shimano Tiagra in 32h or 36h from chain reaction will set you back $34. A Deep V can be found on fleabay or via a number of online retailes for $60 or less. $20 worth of DT or Wheelsmith spokes w/nipples and you've got all the components for a pretty durable wheel together for around $115. Print off Sheldon Browns instructions on how to build a wheel and find you're local bicycle coop who hopefully have a truing stand and member who is willing to loan you a tension meter. Plan on setting aside several hours on two occassions. Down load Park Tools spoke tension spreadsheet to help you visualize how evenly your spokes are tensioned. Get building.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-12, 08:02 PM   #5
Axiom
Fat Cyclist
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Bikes: '11 Cannondale SuperSix Dura-Ace
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
If the front isn't giving your grief, get over any asthetics issues you have about mismatched wheelsets (I've had to). Replace just the rear. The difference between a machine built and hand built wheel can be minimized by running the machine built one through several revolutions of stress relieving and retensioning (with a gauge). Given your tight budget, I would focus mostly on the rim and spokes and if really need be, save money on the hub. A shimano Tiagra in 32h or 36h from chain reaction will set you back $34. A Deep V can be found on fleabay or via a number of online retailes for $60 or less. $20 worth of DT or Wheelsmith spokes w/nipples and you've got all the components for a pretty durable wheel together for around $115. Print off Sheldon Browns instructions on how to build a wheel and find you're local bicycle coop who hopefully have a truing stand and member who is willing to loan you a tension meter. Plan on setting aside several hours on two occassions. Down load Park Tools spoke tension spreadsheet to help you visualize how evenly your spokes are tensioned. Get building.
The mechanic at the LBS said they could rebuild my wheel with a new hub ($60) and new spokes, but I wasn't sure if that would solve my problem. I might just do exactly what you suggested and build my own wheel. I'm not sure if they would let me use their truing stand though.
Axiom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-12, 08:43 PM   #6
jross
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: southern indiana
Bikes: dicks special!
Posts: 37
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
refer to my thread on breaking spokes....according to the replies I have learned that cheap wheels are weak wheels. I'll be following the replies to this thread closely to see what good suggestions you receive....good luck.
jross is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-12, 08:53 PM   #7
lenny866
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Foothills of the beautiful Adirondack Mountains, NY
Bikes:
Posts: 469
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I bought the Vuelta Corsa HDs from Nashbar. I am happy with my choice.
lenny866 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-12, 08:53 PM   #8
jethro56 
Watching and waiting.
 
jethro56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Mattoon,Ill
Bikes: Trek 7300 Trek Madone 4.5 Surly Cross Check
Posts: 2,022
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
Since BicycleWheelWareHouse and Parks tension software was mentioned I thought I bring this post over from the Bicycle Mechanics Forum

Quote:
Originally Posted by jethro56 View Post
I was confronted with a situation with a 36 hole BicycleWheelWarehouse Pure Tour Rear Wheel. From the supplier the rim was very true. It was less than .2mm out. Measuring the spoke tension revealed poor spoke tension. Graph #1 shows the tension as delivered. As I tried to even tension moving to 2 then 3 and finally Graph 4 I introduced some lateral movement. It's still less than .5mm so I stopped adjusting.

I believe had I just rode the wheel as delivered spoke 15 on the drive(red line) and nondrive(blue line) side would not have lasted long. The non drive spoke 11 and the drive side spoke 9 were iffy as well. After a 100 miles I'll take another look and see if I can get more even tension and a better lateral true. It'll be interesting to see what happens.

Last edited by jethro56; 04-28-12 at 09:01 PM.
jethro56 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 11:55 AM   #9
Nightshade
Humvee of bikes =Worksman
 
Nightshade's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Bikes:
Posts: 5,363
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom View Post
I am on a budget and I need a new rear wheel. Clearly the stock rear wheel that comes with the Trek 1.2 can't handle my 270lbs so I need something sturdy. I'd like one that is strong enough that it can take a bit of a beating since I use the 1.2 as a commuter and trainer bike. Weight isn't really an issue since I am not a "weight weenie" but price is. The LBS told me their cheapest wheel would cost $105 and they are machine built, and a hand built wheel would cost $250, which I cannot afford right now. Any recommendations? I *might* purchase a front wheel as well, but I am not sure.

Thanks!
To carry more weight you need more spokes of a heavier gage. No less than 36 spokes per wheel with w 14 ga. , or better yet 12 ga, spokes for that wheel.
__________________
My preferred bicycle brand is.......WORKSMAN CYCLES
I dislike clipless pedals on any city bike since I feel they are unsafe.

Originally Posted by krazygluon
Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred, which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?
Nightshade is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 01:22 PM   #10
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Posts: 3,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom View Post
The mechanic at the LBS said they could rebuild my wheel with a new hub ($60) and new spokes, but I wasn't sure if that would solve my problem. I might just do exactly what you suggested and build my own wheel. I'm not sure if they would let me use their truing stand though.
A new "hub"? Or, did they suggest a new "rim" and spokes. Usually it would be the later, unless there was a particular issue with the hub flanges or spoke holes.

For comparison to Jethro's experience with BWW, I've attached a copy of the tensions from my most recent Deep V build. 1 was as they were initially tensioned and trued. 2 with tension slightly reduced and as they left the truing stand. 3 after approximately 300-400 km later. 4 was after a final touch up and careful tension balancing. I suspect they will be good for a long time, barring pot holes or other tramatic treatment.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg Deep V Tensions.jpg (99.5 KB, 12 views)
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 01:42 PM   #11
Axiom
Fat Cyclist
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Bikes: '11 Cannondale SuperSix Dura-Ace
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
A new "hub"? Or, did they suggest a new "rim" and spokes. Usually it would be the later, unless there was a particular issue with the hub flanges or spoke holes.

For comparison to Jethro's experience with BWW, I've attached a copy of the tensions from my most recent Deep V build. 1 was as they were initially tensioned and trued. 2 with tension slightly reduced and as they left the truing stand. 3 after approximately 300-400 km later. 4 was after a final touch up and careful tension balancing. I suspect they will be good for a long time, barring pot holes or other tramatic treatment.

They said there was an issue with my hub but I don't remember exactly what was wrong.
Axiom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 01:55 PM   #12
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Posts: 3,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Hmmmm.


How many spokes does you current rear have? If less than 32, I wouldn't spend any more money on it and go for a new budget build as previously outlined.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 04:03 PM   #13
Axiom
Fat Cyclist
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Bikes: '11 Cannondale SuperSix Dura-Ace
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
Hmmmm.


How many spokes does you current rear have? If less than 32, I wouldn't spend any more money on it and go for a new budget build as previously outlined.
I am almost certain the stock wheel has 32 spokes. Ironically, I have a sibling who cycles and he weighs only 10lbs less than me, rides on the same wheel set, and beats it to hell but never has any issues.
Axiom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 04:16 PM   #14
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 19,697
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 457 Post(s)
Did the stock wheel fail? I'd just keep in mind wear and tear happens.
S drop by the bike shop every so often and see that the spoke tension and truing is maintained.

Being near 300 just makes maintenance a bit more frequently, a good idea..

Worksman in NY makes industrial bikes for hauling tool boxes around , so if you really want belt and braces reliability, they are made like the old Chicago Schwinns..
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 04:47 PM   #15
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Posts: 3,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom View Post
I am almost certain the stock wheel has 32 spokes. Ironically, I have a sibling who cycles and he weighs only 10lbs less than me, rides on the same wheel set, and beats it to hell but never has any issues.
Yes, but, you bought this bike used and we don't know the history of the wheel or if it was ever properly trued and tensioned early in it's life. That can make a huge difference in the life expectancy of a wheel.

If it's 32 spoke, I would be interested in what the lbs thinks the problem is with the hub, that would lead to spoke failures. My normal first inclination would be to replace the rim and spokes, as has already been outlined.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 09:14 PM   #16
Axiom
Fat Cyclist
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Bikes: '11 Cannondale SuperSix Dura-Ace
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
Yes, but, you bought this bike used and we don't know the history of the wheel or if it was ever properly trued and tensioned early in it's life. That can make a huge difference in the life expectancy of a wheel.

If it's 32 spoke, I would be interested in what the lbs thinks the problem is with the hub, that would lead to spoke failures. My normal first inclination would be to replace the rim and spokes, as has already been outlined.
The only history I know of is that the guy I got it from rode it a LOT and didn't take care of it. I am certain he never had the wheel tensioned and trued, he rode it in the rain, never cleaned the chain, and didn't properly maintain it in general. I've done as much as I can to get it back in to good shape, but the wheels still require attention. My first statement was almost rhetorical, as I found it funny that he never has any cycling problems but doesn't practice "proper" cycling techniques.

Anyway, I have another job interview this Monday so hopefully I land this job so I have some income for this summer before school starts again. I'd be working full time so I'd be able to afford a hand built wheel and other cycling goodies. How much are larger gauged spokes compared to regular spokes? Do they really help or is it a waste of money? 32 spoke count with heavy gauged spokes vs 36 count spokes with regular spokes?
Axiom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 09:23 PM   #17
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Posts: 3,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Axiom View Post
The only history I know of is that the guy I got it from rode it a LOT and didn't take care of it. I am certain he never had the wheel tensioned and trued, he rode it in the rain, never cleaned the chain, and didn't properly maintain it in general. I've done as much as I can to get it back in to good shape, but the wheels still require attention. My first statement was almost rhetorical, as I found it funny that he never has any cycling problems but doesn't practice "proper" cycling techniques.

Anyway, I have another job interview this Monday so hopefully I land this job so I have some income for this summer before school starts again. I'd be working full time so I'd be able to afford a hand built wheel and other cycling goodies. How much are larger gauged spokes compared to regular spokes? Do they really help or is it a waste of money? 32 spoke count with heavy gauged spokes vs 36 count spokes with regular spokes?
Yeh, so, we know the wheel was neglected at best and quite possibly abused.

With regard to your rear wheel: Regardless of 32 or 36 spoke count, with an adequate rim (Deep V, 585, Dyad, etc.) 14 ga. spokes should be sufficient. Some would contend that 14/15 double butted spokes can make for a longer lasting or more durable wheel. The Deep V I built used 14ga/2.0mm on the drive side and 14/15DB 2.0/1.8mm on the non drive side. The difference in cost is about $0.50 per spoke. The other option is going with spokes that have a 13ga elbow. I've not found an easy or convenient source for those in the lengths I needed. In theory they would lessen the chances of spoke breakage at the elbow. However, if properly built and not abused (ridden into curbs, etc) there's no reason 14ga spokes won't last the lifetime of the rim.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 09:23 PM   #18
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Posts: 3,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Oh, and good luck at the job interview.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 09:32 PM   #19
Axiom
Fat Cyclist
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Florida
Bikes: '11 Cannondale SuperSix Dura-Ace
Posts: 672
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfred View Post
Oh, and good luck at the job interview.
It's actually a follow-up interview which I forgot to mention. When I spoke to the manager I asked for the owner and I told her about the interview and she told me the owner was glad to hear back and sounded pretty enthusiastic, so I have high hopes. With my free schedule, willingness to do any job there, and love for cycling I don't see a reason why I wouldn't get the job.
Axiom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 11:29 PM   #20
Rifford
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Bikes:
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Seems like a good place to ask this question -

I know my LBS will be able to answer this for me, but I want to get an idea before I head in. For those of us that need to invest in a 36h wheel, what can expect to spend for a handmade rear wheel? Preferably of the deep V variety.
Rifford is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-12, 11:36 PM   #21
bigfred 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: NZ
Bikes: More than 1, but, less than S-1
Posts: 3,834
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rifford View Post
Seems like a good place to ask this question -

I know my LBS will be able to answer this for me, but I want to get an idea before I head in. For those of us that need to invest in a 36h wheel, what can expect to spend for a handmade rear wheel? Preferably of the deep V variety.
See above. There are several options presented in the first 19 posts of this very thread.
__________________
Birth Certificate, Passport, Marriage License Driver's License and Residency Permit all say I'm a Fred. I guess there's no denying it.
bigfred is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:03 AM.